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Home » Articles » The basics of the art of designing clothes

People and clothing

THE PROPORTIONS OF THE HUMAN BODY AND ITS CANONS 

According to the proportionality of individual parts of the body there are three main types of people: dolichomorphic, brachymorphic, mesomorphic and. Comparative characteristics of these types of addition in the main parts of the body (for Bashkirova) are given in table. 4. The ratio of growth for women mesomorphic type, often found here, expressed in percentages, would be as follows:
 


In Fig. 3 shows the ratio of the average parts of a woman's body with an increase of %.

The study of the relationships of the parts of the human body with its growth and other designer necessary because knowledge of them allows you to decide the proportions of the clothes to represent the figure of a man in the best form. To do this, the artists use various rules or schemes of the human figure.

Almost all developed canons are reduced to establishing a dependence of individual human body parts taken from the relatively constant value, or module.

Sculptural or pictorial image of the person appear beautiful, if regardless of the scale they retained the correct aspect ratio. These proportions are expressed in numerical values or geometric patterns should the size of the whole (the whole figure) to give an idea of the size of the individual parts and, on the contrary, the size of any part on the dimensions of the whole person.

People have long been concerned with the question"what are the proportions must meet the figure perfectly folded person. Correct and along with the typical articulation of the human figure, which can serve as a model called Canon.
 


The easiest and most common is the Canon, where a module is taken to be the length of the head. In this case, for a person dolichomorphic the type of growth will be equal to 8 modules (heads), mesopores type - 7,5 modules, brachymorphic type - 7 modules. In Fig. 4 given the Canon of construction of the human figure, the module of which is the length of the head.

As can be seen from the figure that the shoulder width is equal to 1.5 units, the distance between the centers of the breast - 1 module, the width of the pelvis of 1.5 modules width waist - 1 module, the position of waist - 3 modules, the elbow hands - 3 modules, the position of the pubis - 4 modules, the position of the bottom of the knee (cups) - 6 modules, the position of the bottom of the tibia - 7 modules, the position of the foot - 7,5 modules.

Of particular interest is Canon, based on the rules of "Golden section" (Fig. 5). Build Stingom on this Canon see the face of a human figure showed that all the borders of the articulations are the joints of the skeleton of the human body.For example, the distance from the top of the head to the end of the brush is equal to the distance from the soles to the elbow or belly button, the distance from head to navel is the distance from the soles to the end of the brush, the distance from the chin to the navel is the distance from the soles up to the kneecaps, the distance from the elbow to the beginning of the brush is equal to the length of the head or the distance from the kneecaps to the tips of the fingers, etc.

The law of "Golden section" is to ensure that when dividing the whole into two unequal parts, a whole is for the most part, as most of them were smaller. If a whole - and, most of b, the smaller part, then a : b = b : C.
 


We should dwell more on the Canon frycz for male figures. Here for the module is taken of the spine length or the distance from the lower part of the nasal septum (Fig. 6) to a point lying on the upper edge of the pubic articulation V. This module is divided into four submodule. The end of the first submodule, the point d corresponds to the height of the shoulders. Putting aside one submodule to the right and left horizontally (points C and C') to get the width of the shoulders. Also, leaving the horizontal from a point at the half of the submodule to the right and to the left, get the width of the hips (points I and J).Direct connect point C with point A and point C with the point Y. the Point of intersection of these straight lines T will be the center of the navel. The distance between points G and T equal to two submodules. From point C at right angles to the lines SA hold a straight line, from point B of intersection of this line with the line SA spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection of this line with the line SA denote B'. Segments SL=SV, LZ=SA, SN=AG, C=AG, UC=UA, KN = VE; NO = AG : 2.

All other divisions and building shapes are visible in the figure and are self-explanatory.

There are also various principles of classical human figure, but the examples already give an idea about the principles of building beautiful, slender body. It is considered that the figure of a man whose height is 8 heads, the most slender.

Of course, no matter what the Canon was not taken as a model, in practice many fashion designers, designers apparel allow derogations from these rules. The canons, as a rule, tend to set the classic bone structure of the body, but the human figure is different depending on age, ethnic and other characteristics. In addition, depending on what the fashion season, which ideas seeks to Express the artist in his work, there are deviations from the established canons.



Category: The basics of the art of designing clothes | Added by: 26.10.2017
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