To connect shelves with side shelf namachivajut laying on side laying on a special machine or by hand. To do this, the treated side of the strip is placed on the platform of the machine or a special pad at the edge of the bead to the running, the hair lining up. On the side strip stack a shelf processed face up so that the centers of bulges in the chest shelves and side gasket matched and the sections of the side strip had advocated the cut of the lapel, shoulder cut and the cut of the armhole shelves.

Shelf namachivajut on the side strip three lines (Fig. 28, a). The ends of the lines at the top should not reach the shoulder cut into 5 - 6cm, and bottom to cut the bottom 4 cm Right shelf start basting from the shoulder cut.The first line lay in the middle of the convexity of the chest along the shelves, the second parallel slice of the neck (at a distance of 5 cm from the cut edge), the line of inflection lapel (at a distance of 2 cm from the crest line towards the armhole) and line side (distance 3 - 3.5 cm from the cut edge), the third is parallel to the armhole (at a distance of 5 - 6 cm from the cut edge), the internal cross sections of the strip (at a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from the edge) to the level of the side pockets. The length of the basting stitches Left equal to 3 cm shelf namachivajut on the gasket as well, but the lines are laid in the opposite direction.

Shelves can be joined with a side strip for sanding machine with a knife or without a knife. On the auxiliary pattern on the shelf is applied with a chalk line of inflection lapel length equal to 2/3 of its length. Line 1 (Fig. 28, b) are laid on the front side of the shelf at the breakline of the lapel (knife machine off), then at a distance of 0.5 cm from the slices of the neck, shoulder and armhole.

For a more stable position of the side strip and increase the strength of the pockets when wearing the jacket the ends of obrazek and the edge of the lining side pockets attached to the sanding machine to the side laying two or three reverse stitches, by bending side sections of the shelves. The lining pockets can be attached to the side seal no special blindstitch machine, glue spiderweb press or the hidden hand-stitches with a length of 0.7 cm from the side strip (Fig. 29, line 1).

After attaching the pockets to the lining side strip of the shelves are bent and the edges of the boards lay line 2 from the front side of the shelves from the top loop to the bottom at a distance of 0.5 cm from the cut edge (see Fig. 28, b). 

If the Board is treated with the edge line of pave on the front side of the shelves, starting from the crest line of the lapels and short on 4 - 5 cm to the bottom, at a distance of 3 to 4 cm from the side sections (see Fig. 29, and, line 2). 

For proper connection of the shelves with the side padding is not allowed to stretch the cut parts.

The upper ends of the pockets with leaflets attached to the shelves with the side strip on the machine zigzag stitching on the front side or hand from the side of the strip. Stitch length (zigzag) is equal to 0.1 cm the Number of stitches in 1 cm lines 14 - 20 (depending on tissue thickness). The ends of the lines fixed reverse stitching. In manual mode, the ends of the leaf attached to the side strip ten to twelve oblique hand hidden stitches with a length of 0.5 cm, capturing the main fabric, but not piercing through it (see Fig. 29, and lines 3).The color of thread should match the color of the main fabric.

To give the lapels of elasticity and the sustainability of their wasteheat on a special machine or manual slant stitch length 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the side of the strip. The first line laid parallel to the line of inflection lapel, stepping back from her 2 cm in the direction of the openings. When routing lines gasket pokazyvajut. To do this, after executing the first line of the detail of the bend in the side of the main fabric to main fabric was more taut strip. In this position of the tissue lay a second line parallel to the first, etc.Thanks to some landing pads lapels in the finished product attached to the shelves. The ends of the lines should not reach sections of the lapel 1.5 cm

The stability of the lapels can be given, connecting the side shelf strip with adhesive method. In this case the primary side the gasket without pulling the lapel. The laying of the lapel is cut separately, placed on a shelf adhesive coating down so that it cuts is not reached before the cut of the neck of shelves 1.2 - 1.5 cm, to slices of the shoulder and lapel - 1 cm Internal slice routing lapel needs to close the main strip of 1.5 - 2 cm Strip of the lapel connect with a shelf on the press (Fig. 29, b).

To podborta products do not lay lines of wystawiania lapels, the latter covered with strips of nonwoven fabric or calico, which attach one line on the blindstitch machine (Fig. 29).

QUESTIONS FOR review 

1 What are the different ways of connecting shelves with side strip?
2. What is the advantage of the machine mode of connection of the shelves with the side strip before hand? 
3. How to connect shelves with side strip for sanding machine? 
4. How to connect shelves with side strip by hand? 
5. How to attach the ends of the pockets to the side strip?
6. What wasteheat lapels? 
7. What methods are used to wystawiania lapels?