CONNECTION PODBOROV WITH the PRODUCT 

To connect podborta with shelves products a jacket is placed on the table face up, right side to the running. Podborta put on the shelves face down, equalizing the reference notch on podborta and shelves. Podborta have to go over sections of the shelves of 0.3 - 0.5 cm (depending on the fabric structure and product design).

If the fabric is striped or plaid, the pattern on the right and left podborta must be located symmetrically and parallel to the cut of the lapels. To do this, before namachivayam of podborov on the shelves of podborta cut external cut. 

In suits of dyed fabrics podborta namachivajut manual slanted stitches, jackets made of fabrics with a pattern of straight stitches, with a line at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the side sections of the shelves.

So that in the finished jacket lapels (especially the ends) close to the product, while namachivanija their pokazyvajut. The size of the landing depends on the ability of the fabric to shrink and the shape of the lapels. In products from the tissues with a high content of synthetic fibers or fabrics of tight structure, the value of landings is minimal, since these tissues do not respond well to wet-heat treatment. If the angles of the ledges of the sharp lapels, but the lapels are long and the fit should be more, and if the angles obtuse and lapel short, landing less. 

Below the rough distribution of planting podborta.

 In the manufacture of a jacket made of cloth with a small amount of synthetic fibers podborta namachivajut on shelves, Posiva of podborta in the corners of the lapels (width and length) 0.5 - 0.7 cm, in the rest of the lapels - 0.4 - 0.5 cm (most of the inflection of the lapel at the bottom), between each pair of loops is 0.2 cm In the lower corners of the shelves podborta namachivajut tension, Posiva shelf 0.2 - 0.4 cm Length stitches when namatanai podborov of the lapels and the bottom corners of the shelves are 1 - 1.5 cm, in other parts of 2,5 - 3 cm (CV. Fig. 50).

Planting podborov sativum on a plot of 3 to 4 cm from the slices, pre-moistened with podborta. When stivania you must ensure that planting does not shift and was not sauterelles folds. In the corners of the lapels when stivania leave some slack tissue to form on the lapel edging of the fabric podborta. 

GRINDING THE SIDES

To obtain the same shape and size of the lapels and the corners of the bottom shelves of these sites before grinding obmeleet support patterns. The surgery is performed from the side of the strip, positioning the chalk line at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the side of the cut shelves. The thickness of the chalk lines should be no more than 0.1 cm (see Col. Fig. 50).

The ends of the upper collar (allowance) stachivaya in the neck, starting (ending) line near the ledge of the lapel and the edge (fold) of the collar. The gasket should not fall into the seam Tachibana (Col. Fig. 51, a). The end lines of vrachevanie allowance of upper collar at the neck must coincide with the line of namely the ledge of the lapel (Col. Fig. 51, b).

Then grind side. If the outer edge of the edge has been pre-sewn to the main fabric, and the stitching on the lapel are laid around the outer edges edges Board at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge of the edge for the formation of the edge of the fabric shelves (Col. Fig. 52, a). If the outer edge of the edging was not sewn with the upper and lower corners of the shelves grind along the planned lines, the remaining portions along the edge at a distance of 0.1 cm from its outer edge (Col. Fig. 52, b). The jackets made of fabrics with synthetic fibre side grind on the side strip (Col. Fig. 52).

Side grind on a car with a knife. Joint width depends on the method of processing boards: when vspuchivanie sides, or laying the finishing stitches on the edge of the weld width should be equal to 0.3 - 0.4 cm, the treatment of "pure land" - 0,6 - 0,7 see If the Board will be turned on a machine without a knife, the seams of the boards cut by hand. The width of the seam when vspuchivanie edges or finish them with a place on the shelf is 0.3 - 0.4 cm, on podborta - 0,4 - 0,5 cm, in the corners of the collars and lapels - 0,2 - 0,3 cmWhen handling boards in a "pure land" the width of the seam on the shelves equal to 0.3 - 0.4 cm, podborta - 0.6 cm, in the corners - 0,2 - 0,3 cm At the point of the ledge of the lapel podbot and a shelf cut through perpendicular to the line of the neck, not reaching the lines of 0.1 - 0.2 see

The correct grinding of the sides of the check, imposing auxiliary pattern from podborta.

To connect podborta with shelves without their prior namachivanija can be used machine with separate landing of the layers of fabric. On the shelves in the usual way outline on the patterns of a line of stitching around the corners of the lapels and the bottom of the boards. Podborta stacked with shelves, combining the front side parts so that the sections of podborov spoke from under the shelves of 0.3 cm Grind side on the shelves. With the help of a special mechanism, machine pokazivaet of podborta in places provided by the design of the jacket. Simultaneously with the grinding of the shelves is made by cutting the fabric along the seam.The use of this machine allows to increase labor productivity by about half compared with labor productivity in the grinding of the sides on a sanding machine with a knife and their preliminary namatanai.

Thread namachivanija of podborov removed, seams, grinding of the sides of moisturize and rautureau press or iron on a special narrow Board. The seams in the corners of lapels, collars and seams vrachevanie ends of the collar into the neck rautureau iron.