The cut of the jacket are piece of main fabric (Fig. 3), the lining (Fig. 4) and the butt (Fig. 5). Phantom lines on the parts indicate the direction of the warp threads of the fabric, the dashed deviation from them. The names of the cut parts of the base fabric coincide with a name similar sections of parts of the lining (table. 1). Unlike the shelves of the main fabric shelf lining has a side cut and has no sections of the lapel, the shoulder and the neck. Lining the pockets cut out of twill, calico and other similar fabrics.

The details of the jacket for the boy, cut from the main fabric, shown in Fig. 6. On the details of the phantom lines indicate the direction of the warp threads, dashed - acceptable deviation. 

Examination and clarification of the details of the cut 

Before you start making products, you need to check all the necessary details of the main fabric, lining and butt, and that the direction of main, weft threads and drawing stuff on them and also make sure that the items are not of textile defects.

Check details and clarify on the patterns, which indicated the model number, size and length (height) of the product, part name, and caused the line of direction of the warp threads. Details of the main fabric check and clarify with the patterns of the upper and lower parts, taken from a bundle of cut. In the manufacture of expensive fabrics (tissues high the list of groups) check and clarify every detail. 

When clarifying details obmeleet their sections, outlining the missing information (or clarify existing) the notch, and then cut inaccuracies mobile cutting machine, manual cutter or scissors.

Details lining check and details of the main fabric, applying to a mold the upper and the lower part of the bundle cut. First check the major parts (shelves, back, top, and bottom of the sleeves), and then fine - podklady, valances, lined note paper, lined patch pockets, a hanger.

Tolerance cut parts of the jacket from the configuration of the respective patterns of the next, see: the sections of the bottom, side, parts of the main fabric and lining, dolevikov pocket +-0,3; side sections, the front and elbow sections of the sleeves, cut the valve pocket surface, Podzorov of the main fabric and the cut parts of the lining and side strips +-0,2; for all other sections +-0,1. 

If the details of the main fabric or the lining side strip bent or tapered (the allowable deviation is exceeded), the cut in production is not allowed.

On the details of the main fabric using the outline patterns additional lines. Side Welt pockets space on each shelf separately three or four lines: one or two lines along the pocket, and two across the ends of the pocket. 

Continuous Darts, patch pockets and line the bottom of bending the upper parts of the sleeves is marked on each part separately. The thickness of lines should not exceed 0.1, see

Adjust the valves and cut in accordance with the line location of the side pockets on the front side of the shelves; it is necessary to ensure that the direction of the major strands or the pattern on the valves coincide with the direction of the main filaments or drawing on the shelves. At the front and top sections of the valves are cut, leaving a seam allowance on processing is equal to 0,5 - 0,7 see

Slip top pocket customize and pruned in accordance with the line location of the pocket on the front side of the left shelves, combining the fabric on a piece of paper and the shelf. Allowance for processing of the side sections of the leaflets are equal to 0.7 - 1 cm, upper cutoff and 0.5 - 0.7 cm, bottom - 1,5 - 2 see the Side sections of the leaves must be cut in the direction of the warp threads. 

Piping side and inner pockets cut out strictly in the direction of grain lines, so in the process of wearing jewelry frame pockets are not stretched.

Podborta customize and pruned in accordance with the length of the side shelves of the jacket with the further planting podborov. 

The lower collar is customized and cut to pattern, shaped neckline. It may consist of two or four parts. The seam connection of the extensions is equal to 0,5 - 0,7 see 

the numbering of the parts cut

In mass production, the numbering of cut parts is of great importance. On location of serial numbers of parts are the front and inside of details, it builds products that complement ready jackets and pants, as well as take into account the work done by each worker per day.

Coupons with serial numbers sew on the front side on each of the parts: the back, the shelf, the upper and lower sleeves, upper and lower collars, the main part of podborov, valves, leaf. Piping and valances pockets are numbered sewing coupons only for the upper part of the pack. The remaining parts of the product sequence number write with chalk or pencil on the reverse side. Coupons paste or sew on a special machine with legkousvojaemaja line or manually three stitches without knots, for strength leaving the ends of the thread length of 1 - 1.5 cm.The stitches must not cover the number on the card and prevent further machining of the part.

QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW 

1. What distinguishes children's clothing clothing for adults? 
2. What are the typical features are of modern types of men's jackets? 
3. What size and height produce the product in mass production? 
4. What parts of the base fabric required for the manufacture of men's jacket? 
5. How to put the warp yarn on the lower collar of the main and liner fabrics?
6. How to put the warp yarn on the details of the main and lining fabrics, butt? 
7. What are the names of the slices and constructive lines?
8. What are the names of the sections of the lower and upper parts of the sleeves? 
9. What are the upper sections of the collar? 
10. What are the sections of the back? 
11. What operations is the preparation of the details of the cut of the jacket (to process applications? 
12. What purpose is the operation "numbering cut"?