The LAYING EDGE 

Edge lay on the slices of the product to set the edges of the jacket and prevent them from stretching during wear of the product.

Nechaevu edge, lay the first on the right shelf, starting from the upper inflection point of the lapel, perepuska it 1 cm to the side armhole and continuing down the neck, the lapel, side and forth on the bottom shelves on the section length of 30 cm. On the left shelf edge paving from the bottom up. Then edge laid parallel to the line of inflection lapel, on 0.2 cm from it towards armhole on a plot of length equal to 2/3 the length of the lapel, starting from the neck. For subsequent attachment of the ends of edges to the seam vrachevanie the bottom of the collar edge release for the neckline, 2 - 3 cm (CV. Fig. 37).

Edge pre-primetyvajut on the machine one thread chain stitch or by hand at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 cm from the outer edge, at the same time Posiva edge of the lapel and sides. This allows you to check the correct Seating of the edges of the left and right shelves to final fixing of the edge. The value of planting the edges of the lapel depends on the fabric, shape of lapel model jacket.

Indicative planting shelves on the edge are equal, see: on the collar and the ledge of the lapel of 0.2, the rest of the lapel to the top of the loop - 0,5 - 0,6, on Board between every two neighboring loops - 0.2 cm, in the rest of the sides and bottom are 0.2 - 0.3, on the fold line of the lapel - 0,4 - 0,5. Edge primetyvajut so that its outer edge went over the cut side strips of 0.2 cm and was located from the slices shelves for the next distance, inches: at neckline - 1, according to lapel - 0,5, Board - 0,7, at the bottom of 0.1 above the line of bending.

When primitivnyi edges manually to secure the landing every 5 - 6 cm lines make fixing cross stitches. The tension of the lip on the slicer side control, bending the shelf line polutanata. If the line of prosanos video and both of the line of bending the bottom when applying the same, the edges are routed properly. After primitivne edges on both shelves check the length of the right and left sides, placing one side on the other. If their lengths are unequal, the defect is eliminated, re-primitiva edge.

Then the outer edge of the edge sewn to the main fabric shelves on the machine blind stitch or hand blind stitch open stitch length 0.5 - 0.7 cm, invisible from the front side, and the inner edge of - the gasket on the machine blind stitch or manual stitch length of 0.7 - 1 cm 

in mass production of clothing edge primetyvajut on the machine one thread chain stitch at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 cm from the outer edge of the edge and the inner edge of the edge attached to the side laying on the blindstitch machine. The side grind on the edge.

Edge edge laid parallel to the line of inflection lapel, is attached to the side strip on two sides on the blindstitch machine or by hand. 

Thread primitivne edges are removed, edges of collars and lapels priorivet press or iron from the side of the strip of land of width 8 - 10 cm from the edge, at the same time pritoria edge laid on the bottom shelves.

Glue the edge of the paving with the iron, releasing its edge on a Board and lapel 0.5 - 0.6 cm slices onboard strip. From the slices of the shelf edge of the paved edge should be placed at the following distance: the neck is 0,7 - 1 cm, at the shoulder and lapel - 0,5 cm on the side and 0.7 cm on the bottom is 0.2 cm above the line of bending. When laying the adhesive edges fit to distribute the same as when routing Nechaeva edge.

Jackets with dual adhesive strip shelves or from tissues with a high content of synthetic fibers (50 - 55 %) on-Board the strip Board and the lapel is not cut and the edge of paving. 

Failure to comply with the technical conditions when routing edges significantly reduce the quality of the jacket in unequal tension of the edges on the right and left sides is different, the length of the shelves; under-planting the edge of the Board to the edge side at the bottom of the shelves differ, and, on the contrary, when excessive landing side more than necessary, come one after another. 

PROCESSING PODBOROV

Extensions to podborta pritachivajut seam width 0.7 - 1 cm, combining the fabric. Seams rautureau and podborta produisait throughout its length. 

As in most cases the edges of the lapels have a slightly convex shape and pattern of the fabric on podborta in the finished jacket should be parallel with the edge of the lapel to the exterior edge of podborta its inner edge at the level of the lapel sativum. Then the inner sections of podborov obmeleet on the auxiliary pattern and cut.

 Jackets without lining internal sections of podborov around with special tape or strip of lining fabric. In the latter case, the strip of cloth pritachivajut to the internal slice podborta, folding front sides, and lay the line on the strip at a distance of 0.3 - 0.4 cm from the slices. Then the strip are bent towards the inside of podborov, form the edging and pave line to the front of podborta the seam primaqiune strips the threads in the fabric color of the edge (Col. Fig. 38, a).Depending on the model of the internal section of podborta can be zastrochit with double ACC cut seam width 0.4 - 0.5 cm (CV. Fig. 38, b) with the help of a special foot or fixtures. Internal cut can be swept off, and then bend towards the inside of 0.7 - 1 cm and zastrochit from the bent cut at the distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the fold (Col. Fig. 38).

QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW 

1. What is the purpose of a swim-and what types of edges used? 
2. In what ways are paving the edge? 
3. What is the distance of feature edge from the slices of the neck, the lapels, the collars and the lines of bending the bottom of the jacket? 
4. What is the value of planting shelves on edge and what it depends on? 
5. How to check the correctness of the laying edge? 
6. What are the differences in the adhesive and laying Nechaeva edge? 
7. What is the difference connection Nechaeva edges with shelves of machine and manual methods? 
8. What method of stitching the edge of the most progressive and why?
9. Defects which arise from improper laying of edging? 
10. How to handle podborta jacket lined? 
11. How to handle internal cut podborta jacket unlined?