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Home » Articles » The manufacture of men's and children's costumes

Final finishing of the sides and bottom of the jacket

Processing boards in a "pure land"

Processing boards "in the pure land" to produce sanding machine, blindstitch machine or by hand. 
When handling boards in a "pure land" on the sanding machine seam grinding the sides of the upper loop and bottom sides netscout, not reaching the lines of 0.2 cm, and then trimmed on the part of the lapels from the shelves, on the part of the Board - side podborov, leaving a seam allowance width of 0.2 - 0.3 see
The corners of collars and lapels turn on the front side, the seam is scribbled on the front side at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the seam grinding. On the part of the lapel seam folded in the direction of the shelves and scribbled on the shelf (Fig. 53, a), on the plot side of the seam folded in the direction of podborta and the line lay on podborta (Fig. 53, b).
 When handling boards on the machine or blind stitch by hand sections of welds, grinding of the sides from podborov attached to the side edge and the gasket on the machine blind stitch or hand blind stitch stitch length of 0.7 cm, a bending edge so that the Board formed the edging of shelves and lapel - podborta (Fig. 54). Kant's width is equal to 0.1 cm 
, the Excess of the seam in the corners of the lapel is cut, the slices gently reinforce the butt joints of hand stitches over the edge. Fixed the seams, grinding of the sides of moisturize and priorivet.

The sides and lapels turn on the front side, straighten the corners of the peg and spawn. Lapels spawn from the shelves, making Kant from podborta a width of 0.1 cm, and the Board - side podborta, making edging of shelves with a width of 0.15 - 0.2, see the bottom of the jacket zametyvayut on the planned line from the side of the allowance for ACC. Lapels and side spawn on the machine one thread chain stitch or manual slant stitch length 0.5 - 0.7 cm at a distance of 0.4 - 0.7 cm from the edge. 

Treatment of the sides and bottom of the jacket glued 

the edges of the lapels, sides and hem enhance the adhesive film, the adhesive thread or the web thread.
The film lay on a special machine on the reverse side shelves after reputazione seams, grinding of the sides. The outer edge of the film located at a distance of 0.1 cm from the line of stitching around the sides and the bottom on the allowance for ACC at a distance of 0.3 cm from the hem (Fig. 55). 
When you attach seams, grinding of the sides of the adhesive thread it on a sanding machine before beverlylinneam corners on the seam allowance of podborta from the side adjacent to the side seal (Fig. 56, a). Glue the thread to fill the bobbin in the Shuttle kit.
Adhesive cobweb in the form of strips with a width of 1.3 - 1.5 cm pritachivajut to the seam, grinding of the sides on the sanding machine from the side adjacent to the shelf (the side strip), or navigate in the grinding of the sides, enclosing it from the shelves or podborov (Fig. 56, b). 
Viverravidae angles, the inflorescence emerge and further processing of the sides and bottom perform as well as boards that are processed in a "pure land". 

Treatment of the sides and bottom of the jacket vspuchivanie and stitching 

the Sides and the bottom of the jacket vspuchivajut on a special machine or by hand.
Vspuchivanie performed after the buttonhole sides and zamatyvala bottom. Board turn on the wrong side, straighten and placed under the needle plate of the machine face down. Under the action of vydavlivaem fabric rises above the needle plate on both sides of the seam grinding. The needle, moving from right to left (from working), pierce to the desired depth podbot, located on the right side, then the shelf with the gasket. The angles of the lapels and the sides vspuchivajut manually.
In the absence of special machines lapels, side and bottom of the jacket vspuchivajut manually from the front side of the silk thread in the color of the fabric top: lapel - side podborta, side and bottom - side shelves and back. Line have a distance of 0.2 - 0.5 cm from the edge (depending on the model) frequency line - 3 stitch 1 cm (figure 57).
The edges of collars, lapels and hem of the jacket may be trimmed with machine stitching, which is laid on the lapel side podborta, on the side and the bottom side of the shelf and backrest. On the right lapel line lay from the top hinge up to the point of the ledge on the left from top to bottom. On Board line are laid on the upper loop right side down on the shelf, then the bottom and left side and finish the stitching at the upper loop of the left side. Distance from the finishing stitches to the edge depends on the model. 

QUESTIONS

1. How should be the product on the table in front of namachivayam of podborov? 
2. How to accommodate padbolt on the shelf in the process of namachivanija? 
3. What are the direction and length of stitches to namachivanija of podborov jackets from fabrics without a pattern and with a pattern? 
4. What is the value of planting podborov and shelves at different sites and what it depends on? 
5. What sativum planting podborov? 
6. What is the meaning of utility curves for almalki corners of the lapels and the sides? 
7. What equipment is used for grinding the sides?
8. How to improve grinding of line in the corner of the lapel, on the lapel and on the Board of the different methods of stitching the edges? 
9. What are the different methods of finishing the sides? 
10. What is treatment of side "pure land" on the sanding machine? 
11. What are the features of processing boards in a "pure land" on the machine or blind stitch by hand? 
12. Any adhesive materials used to attach seams, grinding of the sides and bottom of the jacket? 
13. The sequence in which spawn lapels and the sides and what is the width of the edging? 
14. How to decorate the edge of a Board machine stitching and vspuchivanie?



Category: The manufacture of men's and children's costumes | Added by: 08.11.2017
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