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Home » Articles » The manufacture of men's and children's costumes

Pocketing

In the jacket there are two pockets - Welt pockets and patch. Welt pockets can be with valves and one or two obrazkami, with the valve in the seam of the yoke in the frame with leaves. 
Patch pockets can be simple, without folds, reliefs and leaf - and complicated - pleats in relief, leaves, etc. Darts 

Pocket with flap and facing

 the Valve is part of the side pockets. It can be rectangular or curved shape. Methods of treatment of valves of different shapes is the same.
The valve consists of the main fabric and lining. Lining detail is the main components of 0.3 - 0.4 cm For protection of the valve from stretching during processing the lining cut out so that the warp threads located along the valve.
The main part and the lining of the valve is folded, right sides, equalizing sections, and smatyvay from the main fabric of a running straight stitch length 0.5 - 0.7 cm at a distance of 0.4 cm from the slices (Fig. 11, a). When smachivanie main fabric pokazyvaut 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the sides and corners for the formation of Kant and create additional tension of the lining relative to the underlying tissue.
Grind the valve from the lining seam with the width of 0.5 cm (Fig. 11, b) sanding the car with the folding line of the guide wire or on the machine. A line parallel to the slices of the part. To the edge of the valve angles were not thickened and had a beautiful view of the seam allowance in the corners are cut, leaving 0,2 - 0,3 cm and Then turn the valve on the front side, straightening the corners and spawn from the lining on a special machine or by hand stitches with a length of 0.6 - 0.8 cm, forming the edge of the main fabric with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 seePlace the buttonhole is located at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the edges of the part (Fig. 11). Valve moisturize and priorivet, straightening the edges and corners. The edges of the valve vspuchivajut manually from the front side at a distance of 0.2 - 0.5 cm from the edge (on the model).
In mass production instead of vspuchivanija use film. In this case, after grinding the valves are laid on the machine main fabric adhesive tape so that its outer edge was located at a distance of 0.3 - 0.4 cm from the line of the grinding (to valves). Then turn the valves on the front side, spawn approximately the adhesive film and priorivet. Instead of the buttonhole edge of the valves it is possible to press using a special template. 
Valves can be trimmed with machine stitching depending on the model.
When machining the bolster pocket, the facing 1 is laid on the lining of iznanki down, scribbled cut overlock seam width of 0.2 - 0.3 cm (Fig. 12,, line 1). After felling the facing with lining pockets bend towards the inside in the width equal to the width of the frame in a ready kind plus a seam allowance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm, and iron. On the other end of the valance lining is applied 2 of lining fabric, the lower section of it that bends inward at the 0.7 cm and scribbled (line 3) at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold. The upper sections of the valance and lining pockets should be the same.
Some models of jackets in the lining of the right pocket and handle inside pocket. Before nastraivanie valance lined pockets make an incision the length of which is equal to the width of the valance, then notched piece bent down; from the inside under the lining of the side pockets put your lining inside pocket, equating the upper sections, and sew the lining along the planned lines, making the line 1 (Fig. 12, b) along the side and bottom seam of the lining internal pocket. Then scribbled the valance, positioning the bent edge of the valance back to back with the edge of the inner pocket.
Before processing side pockets on the shelf scheduled for the subsidiary pattern, the location of the pocket four lines (two up and two across the ends of the pocket) and on the valve from the lining of the outline line of his primaqiune to the shelf.
To protect the pocket from stretching during wear of the product from the inside of the shelves primetyvajut dolevik, combining the middle with the line of the pocket on the shelf; the front end of dolevik should extend beyond the end of the pocket 3 - 4cm, and rear - walk to the side of the slice. Primetyvajut dolevik in the middle without pulling and landing on the car or manual straight stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm If dolevik made of fabric with double-sided adhesive coating, it is connected to the shelf iron.
The valve is applied to the front side of the shelf lined up, cut down so that the chalk line on the valve coincide with the chalk line pockets on the front and the front end of the valve coincide with the transverse line marking the pocket. Valve primetyvajut to the shelf straight stitches with a length of 0.7 - 1 cm, padding stitch at 0.1 cm above the chalk line on the valve. If the fabric has a pattern, then the area between the Darts on the pattern of the valve and shelves should be the same. Pritachivajut valve on the chalk line, securing the ends of line 1 (Col. Fig. 13, a).
Bend piping features on the planned line and facing pritachivajut to the shelf at a distance from the bend, equal to the width of the frame. The beginning and the end of the line 2 is fixed at the level of the sides of the valve. 
A shelf cut from the inside in between the lines, starting from the middle; at a distance of 1 cm from the ends of the lines make inclined cuts in the side lines, reaching them 0.1 cm (CV. Fig. 13, b).
The pocket lining to turn out on the wrong side shelves, seam primaqiune valve and lower the frame straighten. Then lining with attached valances fold with valve, equalizing their sections, paving the line 3 (see Col. Fig. 13, a) the seam primaqiune valve. The lower frame is tighten to the seam primaqiune valve, the corners of the incisions straighten and fasten double machine stitching. At the same time grind off the lining, rounding out the line 4 in the corners. The distance between the side lines of the piecing together of the lining of the pocket should be equal to the length of the processed grub pocket plus 1.5 - 2 cm.
Seam primaqiune valve spread to avoid overlap of the shelf, and a shelf to spawn straight stitches at a distance of 0.6 cm from the seam primaqiune valve. Then lay finishing line 5 parallel to the seam primaqiune valve at a distance from it of 0.5 cm, securing the ends at a right angle to the frame. 
In mass production finishing line perform without prior buttonhole.
The ends of the pocket from the front side fix bartacking machine or by hand. Set includes 6 parallel to the sides of the valve so that the ends of the clips came to 0.1 cm for the line of primaqiune valve and piping. 
Processed priorivet pocket on the reverse and then from the front through the moist protohellenic, straightening the valve and the lower frame.
Depending on the model the bottom edge of the pocket may be treated differently. Obtachku, pre-press at length, placed on the shelf of the fold towards the bottom and pritachivajut, positioning the line on the distance from the bend equal to the predetermined width of the frame. Further processing of the pockets is the same as described above (Col. Fig. 13). 

Pocket with flap and two obrazkami

Valve and lining for that pockets treated the same way as for the flap pockets and one facing. The flap on the front side outlining the line defining its width. Top facing fold along the middle underside to the inside and iron. Then on the treated surface (Col. Fig. 14, a) impose the flap lining to the valance, equating the upper sections of the valve and lining valve applied on the upper facing of the fold in the intended for the line valve and pritachivajut on the distance from the bend, equal to the width of the frame (line 1).
In the products of the delicate tissues of the lower facing for greater strength scribbled at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the cut edge of the lining pocket: a facing is placed on the lining wrong side down, bends cut into 0.5 - 0.7 cm and scribbled on the inside seam with the width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm (line 2); then cut the lining pocket circle by facing and pave the line 3 at a distance from the bend, equal to the width of the frame. 
On the shelves outlining the location of the pocket four lines (two up and two across the ends of the pocket). The distance between longitudinal lines is equal to twice the width of two frames.
In accordance with the industrial technology pocket handle without dolevik; dolevikom is the lining of the pocket, the warp threads which are located along of the cut pocket. 
To the shelf primetyvajut top facing, equating it with the top fold line marking the pocket, and the front end of the valve with the anterior transverse line marking the pocket on the shelf. The lining of the pocket pritachivajut and bent to the shelf 1 on the line, securing the stitching at the ends of the pocket.
Fold the bottom of the piping to equalize with the lower marking line of pocket and facing pritachivajut exactly on the line 3. The ends of the lines should be placed at the level of the sides of the valve. The correct primaqiune of obcutek check with the inside shelves. 
Cutting the pocket, securing the ends, stitching the lining and the wet-heat treatment is performed, as described above. Pocket ready pictured on front wheel drive. Fig. 14 b. 

A flap pocket in the seam joining the Basque with the shelf

Valve handle, as described above. On one end of the lining pocket valance is applied, equating the slices. The lower part of the valance to buckle inside by 0.7 cm and scribbled on the lining at a distance of 0.1 cm from the fold.
With the inside shelves on the area of the pocket lay the adhesive edge away from the cutoff by 0.7 - 1 cm and perepuska it for the notch for 1.5 - 2 cm Cut shelves between nasecki grind the pocket lining seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm (CV. Fig. 15, line 1). Then straighten the seam, the lining is bent towards the inside and priorivet, forming from the main fabric edge with a width of 0.3 - 0.5 cm From the front side paving finishing line 2 at a distance of 0.2 - 0.7 cm according to the model.
The lining of the pockets bend, equating cut pads (with valance) with a slice shelves, and grind off the side sections of the pad with a seam width of 1 cm, rounding out the stitching in the corners. 
The yoke and the shelf is folded right sides and pritachivajut on the yoke seam 1 cm wide, putting the valve at the location of the pocket (line 3). Then the seam is folded in the direction of the yoke and scribbled on the front side of the model (line 4) . The ends of the pocket clips double reverse stitching. 

The pocket in the frame

Pocket mark four lines (two lengthwise and two crosswise). The distance between the longitudinal lines should be equal to twice the width of two frames. 
From the inside the shelves in the line of the cut of the pocket lay dolevik. To the lining of the pocket pritachivajut the valance of the main fabric seam width 0.7 cm, placing it face down. Iron the seam towards the lining of his pocket. The top facing of the pocket bend in the middle along the length, folding inside out inward, and the lower in the direction of inside width equal to the width of the frame plus 0.5 - 0.7 cm, and iron.
Press the piping placed on the shelf, aligning the folds with the lines of the pocket pritachivajut on sanding machine. The distance from the bend line equal to a given width of the frame. Length of lines should be strictly the same and walk to transverse lines marking the pocket on the shelf (Col. Fig. 16, a). Cut a pocket in the usual way with notches in the ends. Piping turn on the wrong side of the product, carefully straighten and tighten the frame length, straightening the corners and fastening them with obrazkami double transverse line (Col. Fig. 16, b).
To the lower facing pritachivajut lining pocket (Col. Fig, 16, in, 1 line). The end of the lining with valance put on a shelf, perepuska cut behind the line of the cut of the pocket pritachivajut from the back shelves at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the seam primaqiune upper piping (line 2). Then sew the pocket lining. 
The ends of the pocket from the front side put tacking bartacking machine or by hand. Priorivet pockets on the reverse, and then from the front through the moist protohellenic.
The pocket frame can be processed on the machine. This shelf is placed on the platform of the machine face up, equating special guides lines of the pocket. The pocket lining and dolevik come from the inside of the shelves in accordance with the layout of the pocket. Obtachku run in special guides and pritachivajut, at the same time cut the shelf, facing, the pocket lining between the lines and the ends of the pocket and turn the facing inside out. The lower edge of the piping scribbled on the pocket lining, pre-bent cuts inside on 0.7 cm or almetov them.Line have a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent and 0.2 cm from the serged slice. Further, the pockets are treated as described above.

Pocket with leaves 

, the Leaves can be lined and tselnokrajnie lining. During processing the leaves are lined on one part of the lining of the pocket scribbled lining leaves (CV. Fig. 17, a, line 1), turning it lower cut into 0.7 cm and releasing the upper edge of the pocket lining 0.3 cm Spot located at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold. Another part of the lining of the pocket fold with the skirt right sides inside and pritachivajut the valance seam width 0.7 cm Seam iron to side lining pocket (Col. Fig. 17, b).
On the front side of the leaves is applied to the lined face, the equating items on the upper sections (see Col. Fig. 17, a). Thus it is necessary to ensure that the sides of the lining were the same distance from the ends of the leaves. Then the upper section of the leaves grind from the pads (no pads pocket) seam width 0.5 cm (line 2). The ends of the lines should not reach the side sections of the leaflets are 0.7 - 1 cm.
The ends of the leaves bend at the previously planned lines and iron. The leaves and the lining together with pocket lining are laid out in different directions. Seam grinding the leaves folded in the side lining, cover lining his pockets and lay the line on top edge of the lining from the front side at a distance of 0.1 cm from the seam stitching around the leaves. For greater stability of the leaves between the leaves lining and pocket lining put gasket (CV. Fig. 17, line 3).
The upper section of the lining of the pocket cut, leaving a seam allowance width of 0.2 cm Surplus underlying tissue from a sharp angle cut and the top edge of the leaves iron, forming the edging of leaves width of 0.2 - 0.3, see 
Top edge of leaves trim machine stitch or vspuchivajut manually from the front side at a distance of 0.2 - 0.5 cm from the edge (on the model) or using the adhesive film.
Processed leaf priorivet and plan on it from the inside via the auxiliary patterns line primaqiune, by bending the lining of the pocket. When nemelka equalize edge patterns and top edge of leaves. The lining leaves together with lining pockets in the ends are cut at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edges of the press across the width of the finished leaves (CV. Fig. 17, g). 
When machining of the pocket on the left shelf outline three lines of his location (one lengthwise and two across the ends of the pocket). On the planned line to the underside of the shelves primetyvajut dolevik. The leaves are placed on the shelf face down so that the chalk line on a piece of paper and shelf coincide. The processed edge of the leaflets directed toward the bottom of the shelves. The leaf primetyvajut to the shelf straight stitches with a length of 0.7 - 1 cm, padding stitch at 0.1 cm above the line marking on the leaf. If for the manufacture of the jacket using fabric with a pattern, the pattern fabric on a piece of paper and a shelf combined.Then the lining of the leaves along with the lining of the pocket are bent, and the leaves pritachivajut on the chalk line (Col. Fig. 18 a, line 1). Seam primaqiune leaves incised at the level of bent edges, not reaching a line of 0.1 cm then the seam is folded in the direction of the leaves, the leaves are covered with a lining of the pocket pritachivajut and it to the shelf at a distance of 0.2 cm from the seam primaqiune leaves (CV. Fig. 18 b, line 7).
The valance with the lined pockets are placed on the shelf face down so that the cut the valance touched the seam protecive lining leaves with a lining pocket, and the ends of the valance were the same distance over the ends of the leaves. The valance pritachivajut the seam width of 0.8 - 1 cm (CV. Fig. 18), and line 1 should not reach the front edge leaves 0.5 cm, and the end leaves side openings - 0.2 cm Ends of seam reinforce the back line (Col. Fig. 18, g).
The shelf between the lines penetrate from the inside, beginning from the middle of the pocket. Short of 0.8 cm till the end of the lines make inclined cuts. The pocket lining to turn out on the wrong side shelves, seam primaqiune valances at the ends netscout and rautureau, at the same time pritoria seam primaqiune leaves. Seam primaqiune valances can just waste before cutting the shelves. This seam is laid out on two sides and fixed lines at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the seam primaqiune valance.
Slip pocket and spread primetyvajut to the shelf by slightly pulling on the seam and securing in the middle primaqiune cross stitch length of 1.5 cm; in this case combine pattern fabric on the shelf and the upper edge of the leaves.
The sides of the lining leaves pritachivajut on sanding machine to the shelf at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge of the leaves or attached from the inside a blind machine stitch (vspuchivajut). The ends of the leaves attach to the shelf on the machine zigzag stitch or by hand with a face hidden stitches with a length of 0.2 - 0.3 cm, securing at the corners with three or four stitches. It is necessary to ensure that the ends of the leaves retain their original shape were not tight stitches, and was firmly attached to the shelf.The lining pocket, sew, rounding out the stitching in the corners.
Ready pocket (Col. Fig. 18, d) priorivet on the reverse and front side wetted protohellenic, straightening the ends and top edge of leaves. 
Little leaf tselnokrajnie with lining, treated with an adhesive strip that includes an adhesive coating to the underside on the planned line and connect the leaflets to the press or iron. At the same time iron the piece of paper, bending it along the line, wrong side inside.
The ends of the leaves grind the seam width 0.5 cm, folding the leaf along the fold lines face inward. The seams, in corners cut, leaving a seam allowance width of 0.2, see the leaves turn on the front side, the ends straighten and priorivet using the template or spawn and priorivet. On the outside edges of the leaves are paving finishing line 1 (Col. Fig. 19, a), if required by the model. 
Processing pocket perform in the same manner as described above.
In the products of fine wool and cotton fabrics-cut leaf can be participate together with lining (Col. Fig. 19 b, line 1), line primaqiune is applied from the lining. When participarii leaves combine the intended line, and the fabric on the shelf and the leaf. 

Patch pockets

Patch pockets can have different shapes - rectangular, notched, with rounded lower corners, etc., can be decorated with leaves, pleats, Darts, reliefs, etc. (Fig. 20). The shape and finish of the pockets should match the main lines and finish of the product. 
In the processing of the patch pockets includes the following operations: finishing, machining the edges, the connection of the pocket with a lining and a shelf.
In the manufacture of a simple surface pocket (Fig. 20, a) on the reverse side of the support mold outline the line of bending of the upper edge. From the front of the pocket schedule line of the bending side and bottom sections.
For protection of the upper edge of the pocket from stretching to navigate with a little tension of the adhesive or linen edge at a distance of 0.1 cm from the intended line in the direction of allowance for ACC. The stitching on a linen edge located at a distance of 0.3 cm from the inner edge (Fig. 21, a). Then the top edge of the pocket bend on the planned line in the direction of the back iron or zametyvayut manual straight stitches at the distance of 0,7 - 1 cm from the edge. Bent fabric allowance for ACC in the corners of the pocket cut into 1 - 1.2 cm (Fig. 21, b).
If the pocket is processed without lining, cut seam allowance to buckle and sew on the machine blindstitch (Fig. 21) or attached to press adhesive cobweb (Fig. 21, g) or thread. The adhesive threads are laid on the sanding machine at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bent slice. Can edge of seam allowance on ACC to zastrochit on sanding machine (Fig. 21, d).
After processing the upper edge surface of the pocket is treated with its side and bottom edges. For this side and the lower sections of the bends in the lines on the wrong side and zametyvayut on the machine single thread chain stitch by hand or straight stitch length of 1 - 1.5 cm at a distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the fold. Swept edge priorivet. Instead, the sections of the pocket can press on the pattern on fullpress (see Fig. 21, 6).
 If the pockets are treated with lining, main part is connected to the lining, most often in the following way. The allowance for bending the upper edge of the pocket pritachivajut the lining seam width 0.7 cm, leaving nistatinum section length of 5 - 6 cm for screwing out of pocket. Iron the seam towards the lining. The lining is cut along the side and bottom sections so that it does not reach sections of the main part of the pocket by 0.2 - 0.3 see Details fold right sides, bending along the line of the top edge.Along the side and bottom sections of the pocket will be turned from the side of the lining seam with the width of 0.5 cm (CV. Fig. 22), Posiva in the lower corners of the main fabric by 0.2 - 0.3 cm In the corners of the pocket seam is cut, leaving a seam allowance width of 0.2 - 0.3 cm. turn the Pocket through the left hole on the front side, straighten the corners and edges and spawn from the lining on timetoknow machine or hand straight stitches at a distance of 0.5 cm from the fold, forming the edge of the main fabric with the width 0,2 - 0,3 cm Neprikajannoi part of the lining hem hidden hand-stitches with a length of 0.2 - 0.3 see
Ready pocket priorivet press or iron from the lining, straightening the edges. 

In the manufacture of pocket with a fold leaflets (see Fig. 20, b) with its reverse side the chalk lines on the auxiliary pattern outline edge inverted pleats. The pocket is folded inside out, fold estimates
have the intended lines straight hand stitches or machine single thread chain stitch. The ends of the folds fixed by a double line Shuttle weave. Fold sour cream spread on two sides and priorivet
On the upper edge of the leaves on the planned line from the side of the allowance for ACC paving edge as shown above. The leaf is folded with the pocket, coupling of the front side parts, and pritachivajut to the upper cut of the pocket from the leaves seam width 0.5 - 1 cm. iron the Seam towards the slips. Paper to bend along the lines and iron or zametyvayut. Depending on the model leaf trim stitching, which is performed on the front side of the pocket with the ruler guide.
In the pockets unlined inner cut leaves bends of 0.7 cm and sew to the seam primaqiune on a special machine or by hand. Further, the pockets are treated as described above. 
Before connecting the surface-mounted pocket with a shelf support template outline its location: when connecting a patch, seam or three lines (one along and two across the ends of the pocket), sew-in sock seam or four lines (two lengthwise and two crosswise). To strengthen the pocket inside out shelves are glued or primetyvajut dolevik.
Patch pockets unlined impose the reverse side to the front side of the shelf, equating the edge of the pocket with the planned lines, and namachivajut manual straight stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm at a distance of 0.4 - 0.7 cm from the edge.
In the manufacture of the jacket cloth with plaid or stripes combine transversal and longitudinal line pattern on the pocket and the shelf. If this is not required by the model, the drawing is not compatible (for example, the cell in the pocket are angled 45' to the cage on the shelf). Pocket scribbled on models with the foot with the guide. The upper corners are simple patch pockets fastened by a double line with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm, starting from the top (Col. Fig.23, line 1), and then from the inside corners reinforce the hidden hand-stitches with a length of 0.3 cm at the top and the sides of the pockets across the width of the allowance for ACC (line 2). When you pin the top corners of the pockets with leaves a line across the width of the leaves at a distance of 0.2 - 0.5 cm from both edges (front wheel drive. Fig. 23, b, line 1).
In models with pockets on the lining to the inner side of the leaves or to the allowance for ACC pritachivajut the lining seam width 0.7 cm, without bringing the line to the end for a length equal to the distance from the edge to the finishing stitches. The lining are bent, straighten and cut, equating her sections with finished edges of the pocket. Pocket placed on the shelf according to the planned lines, then the base fabric surface of the pocket folded up and the side and bottom sections of the lining to buckle towards the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and scribbled on the distance of 0.2 cm from the bend (Col. Fig. 24).The ends of the pockets are fastened with double stitching along the upper edges of the allowance for ACC. Then the basic fabric of the pocket is applied to the lining, namachivajut and scribbled on the shelf according to the model by using the foot-guide. The top corners of the pockets from the inside reinforce the hidden hand-stitches with a length of 0.3 cm.
 Patch pockets can be joined through glue method. For this purpose on the reverse side of the bent edge of the pocket lay on the machine adhesive tape width 0.3 - 0.4 cm, having its outer edge at a distance of 0.1 cm from the folds of the pocket (Col. Fig. 24, b). Then the pocket is placed on the shelf according to the planned lines and connect pressing. If the model needs finishing stitching, the pocket scribbled.
Pocket, machined along the side and bottom edges obecnym seam, place the lining on the front side of the shelf on the planned lines and namachivajut hand along the side and bottom sides. Then pocket scribbled by the model or attached to the shelves hidden hand-stitches with a length of 0.3 cm.
Patch pocket can be connected with shelf sew-in sock seam. In this case, the upper edge of the surface-mounted pocket handle, as shown in Fig. 21, a, b. To the lower cutoff allowance for ACC pritachivajut the lining seam with the width of 0,5 - 0,7 cm. fold Pocket lining wrong side, cuts call and overcast. From the inside of the pocket in its upper and lower corners of the support mold outline cross-reference lines.
Side and the lower sections of the surface of the pocket pritachivajut to the shelf seam width 0.5 cm at the planned lines from the lining of the pocket, aligning the reference marks and the notch. On the rounded corners of the pocket fabric pokazyvaut (Col. Fig. 24). 
If a model requires the finishing line, it is performed in accordance with the technical description. 
Priorivet pocket on the reverse and front side of the shelves using a moistened protohellenic. 

The main defects of the pockets

One of the factors affecting the quality of the garments is the cleanliness in processing and finishing pockets. In the process of making pockets of noncompliance with the technical conditions leads to various defects. It should be borne in mind that much easier and with much less expense to eliminate defects revealed in the course of processing the pocket than defects discovered in the finished pocket. It is therefore very important to know the specifications for the machining of pockets, types of defects that can occur when machining pockets, their causes and solutions (table. 2). 
Table 2Defects pocketing

 Defect  The cause of the defect  A method of repairing the defect
Visible lining valve Lining size identical with the valve of the main fabric or more To cut the lining to the width of Kant
The uneven width of the valve (leaflets) Inaccurately planned width of the valve (leaflets) Again to outline the line of primaqiune of the valve (leaflets)
The seam protecive lining to the shelf fell seam primaqiune leaves Remove the line and execute it again
The grub of the long pocket of the valve (leaflets) When participarii piping stitching has gone beyond the level of the sides of the valve The defect is fatal
When participarii valance leaves the stitching is finished at the level of the ends of the lines of primaqiune leaves The defect is fatal
The uneven width of the frame pocket Seam primaqiune of obcutek uneven Remove the line and execute it again
Sweeps uneven frame width Remove the stitching of the buttonhole frame, again to sweep away the frame
The presence of notches or folds in the corners of the pocket The corners of the cut fixed line is not exactly at the base of the triangle, and is biased in one direction or the other side of it Remove the line and execute it again
The lower frame of the pocket moves away from the top or finds her The distance between the lines of primaqiune valve and piping greater than or less than the width of part To increase or decrease the width of the framework
When securing the corners of the pocket bends the upper and lower part is not aligned Remove the line and execute it again
The valve is badly placed inside the pocket The distance between the side lines of the piecing together of the lining of the pocket is less than that required when the length of the cut of the pocket The same
Tie pocket uneven Failure to comply with the technical conditions Set to remove to run them again
Visible notched corners inside pockets with leaflets Not done line (vspuchivanie) at a distance of 0.5 cm from the sides of the leaves or made at a smaller distance from the edge than is required To run the line in accordance with the technical specifications
The ends of the leaves are not parallel Carelessly executed autoimune sides of the leaves Obelit mold the ends of the leaves and press them again
When suturing the sides of the leaves drag one of its sides Remove the line and execute it again
The upper edge surface of the pocket not adjacent to the shelf The lack of fit of the pocket to the edge Pave edge again with more tension
When nastraivanii plated pocket on the shelf side edge of the pocket offset to one another Remove the line and execute it again


QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW 

1. What types of pockets are used in the jackets? 
2. What details is required to process Welt pockets with flap and one facing? 
3. Why do you need dolevik? The tissue from which it cuts out? 
4. In some cases, in the processing of Welt pockets needed the valance of the main material? 
5. Why the flap and its lining should differ in size? 
6. What should be the distance between the lines of primaqiune valve and piping?
7. How is the quality of operations before cutting? 
8. What side items and how to cut the shelf?
9. What is the technological processing sequence Welt pockets with flap and two obrazkami? 
10. In which the process sequence is treated with a flap pocket in the seam joining the Basque with the shelf? 
11. What is the process sequence of machining the pocket in the frame with zautyuzhennoy obrazkami? 
12. How to fix the corners of the cut (the ends) of the pocket? 
13. What is the wet-heat treatment of pocket? 
14. What details are required for processing of pockets with leaflets? 
15. What tehnologicheskoy sequence is processed the leaf?
16. As pritachivajut the valance to the shelf? 
17. How to fix the ends of the leaves? 
18. What are the different ways of connecting the lining to the part surface-mounted pocket? 
19. In what technological sequence process slip pocket with a fold leaflets? 
20. What are applied methods of connection surface-mounted pocket with a shelf? 
21. In what technological sequence connect patch pocket sew-in sock seam?



Category: The manufacture of men's and children's costumes | Added by: 08.11.2017
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