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Home » Articles » The manufacture of men's and children's costumes

Processing collar

In the collar with a detachable stand stand pritachivajut to the upper collar seam width 0.7 - 1 cm from the side stand, equalizing the slices. Seams rautureau or rasstraivaet, or scribbled on the bar, by bending the seam in the side of the bar. 

The upper collar connected to the lower ends and the flying machine zigzag stitching or obecnym seam sanding machine. 

Connecting the upper collar with the lower patch seam

On the lower collar on the front side outlines on the pattern line at a distance of 1 - 1.2 cm from the edge of departure. The top collar is applied to the lower collar face-up cut flight on the planned line and scribbled on a machine zigzag stitching, combining nadziejko in the middle top of the collar with the middle seam of the lower collar and the transverse control line or notch on the upper collar ends of the lower collar (Fig. 45).

Then on the top collar is applied to the line of primaqiune of podborov (Raskatov) and the control lines at the ends of the lower collar. For this, the upper collar bend in flight on the front side, skirting around them edge of the lower collar (Fig. 46) and set from the inside top collar of the control line primaqiune of podborov and lower ends of the collar. After that the ends of the upper collar bend in the lower collar, rounding the ends, and set on the lower collar of the control line for felling allowance of the upper collar (Fig. 47).

Podborta fold top collar, combining front side details, call slices Raskatov and control the lines and grind off sections Raskatov from the collar. Joint width 1 cm Seams Raskatov rautureau. 

The upper end of the collar are bent toward the bottom, forming a slack side of the collar equal to 0.2 cm, and pritachivajut on sanding the car to bottom collar seam width 0.5 cm it is necessary to ensure that the line was parallel to the cut of the neck of the lower collar (Fig. 48, a).

Excess fabric in the corners of the collar are cut, the angles of turn on the front side and straighten. Then the ends of the collar scribbled on the lower collar two lines on the machine zigzag stitching, equating cuts with the control lines on the lower collar. The first line (line 1) paving at the edges of the slices of the allowance, the second (line 2) - from the corner of the collar to the lower sections of the upper collar (Fig. 48, b). 

Connecting the upper collar with the lower obecnym seam

The ends of the upper collar can be Brittany to the bottom on the sanding machine. In this case, the cut rascepa the bottom of the collar make the notch to indicate the location of the ends of the upper collar (Fig. 49, a). The ends of the upper collar bend on the bottom, call fold with sections the upper corners of the lower collar, and the cut - natsukoi on the lower collar and pritachivajut on the seam allowance width 0.5 - 0.7 cm (Fig. 49, b). Seam cut in the corners and turn inside on the front side.

On the sanding machine can be connected to the top collar with the bottom and left. In this case, the lower and upper fold collars right sides and grind the departure of the collar from the lower collar seam width of 0.6 - 0.7 cm Seam folded in the direction of the collar and scribbled on the front side at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from seam grinding (Fig. 49). 

The application of reference lines, primaqiune of podborov, nastraivanie ends of the upper collar is performed, as described above. 

QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW 

1. What seams to join the shoulder sections?
2. What is the fit of the back side and what determines its value? 
3. What defects can arise due to non-compliance with technical conditions for connection of the shoulder sections? 
4. What are the methods of processing the lower collar? 
5. What equipment is used in the treatment of the lower collar? 
6. What is the processing sequence of the lower collar glue method? 
7. In any case, used in the treatment of the lower collar an additional strip of cotton fabric with an adhesive coating? 
8. As connecting the upper collar with the lower on the machine zigzag stitching?
9. What is the process sequence of connecting the upper collar with the lower sanding machine?



Category: The manufacture of men's and children's costumes | Added by: 08.11.2017
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