TREATMENT of the LATERAL SLICES 

IN the learning process, the side sections of the jacket are allowed to smatyvay. The back and shelf fold right sides, stack the slices and smatyvay of the back side at a distance of 0.9 cm from the slices, aligning the notch and Posiva, if required by design, the backrest in the region of the blades as a shelf - in your hips (at the location of the side pockets). The amount of planting installed in accordance with the design of the product. 

If on the side of cut shelves have a seam allowance to the width of the product, the side cut of the back should be equalized on the chalk line on the shelf.

Below shows roughly the distribution of landing in smachivanie side of the slices. First smatyvay right sections, starting from the cut edge of the armhole. On a plot length of 2 - 3 cm back, and a shelf smatyvay without landing. Then on lot length 8 - 10 cm, i.e. at the location of the blades, pokazyvaut back, 0.5 - 0.6 cm At the level of the waist line in the front and the back smatyvay without landing. At the level of the hip line (at side pockets), i.e. area, length 10 - 12 cm, pokazyvaut shelf 0.3 - 0.5 cm slices Below smatyvay without landing.

Left join sections as well as right, with the only difference that the details smatyvay from the bottom up towards the armhole. Before stitching the slices fit securevault. 

In mass production of clothing the side sections of the grind control nadechka without prior smachivaniya. Sew the side sections of the back side seam 1 cm wide, at the same time primativa the ends of dolevikov side pockets, and the models-tab vracheva the ends of the tabs. Seams moisturize and rautureau, making sure that they are not stretched and not curved.

Jackets sporty style with nastronie seams after reputazione side seams and iron them scribbled on the front side on the back. 

Cutting the SIDE sections AND the BOTTOM of the JACKET 

To give the shelves a jacket convex shape in the chest area after the connection with the side strip is subjected to wet-heat treatment on the press with raised pillows or an iron on Board (universal) block. Wet-heat treatment of each shelf separately perform the same tricks as before the connection of the shelves with the side strip (see Fig. 25). Then cut the side strip, equating it cuts slices and sides of the neck, shoulder cuts and slices the arm openings of the shelves.

Pruning of side cuts and cut the bottom of the jacket is the final design configuration of the sides and bottom of the jacket in accordance with the specified model. To more accurately perform the trimming of the sections, and in order not to distort the fabric at the edge of a Board, jacket folded inside out inside along the middle of the back, put on the table left shelf up (as the left side in the jacket is buttoned at the top, is visible) side to equalize the running and shoulder seams, cut armholes, bust Darts, side pockets and side seams.Omelko produce on the patterns of the model of appropriate size in three steps: first the edges of the patterns equate with the upper part of the cut of the neck and shoulder cut obmeleet the neckline and lapels to the top of the loop then call the edges of the patterns with the cut of the bottom shelves and obmeleet side cut, and then the bottom (Fig. 35).

Jackets with the displaced onboard fastener Board from the top loop to the bottom obmeleet parallel to the striped pattern of cloth or the warp threads, with the center - from the top loop to the bottom parallel to the stripe pattern of the fabric or the warp threads, and from the bottom loop to the bottom - mold. Sections of the sides cut exactly on the chalk line machine brand OM-3 or a pair of scissors. Then mark the hinges and the line of inflection lapel. Loop space on a separate template, which is placed on the line of the cut side pockets and cut sides.

In the manufacture of outwear in mass production by obtaining accurate cut of the side handle without clipping slices.

When obmenka the bottom of the jacket have a slice of the bottom to a running, place the template for almalki bottom and set the trim line and the line of bending the bottom that defines the length of the jacket. Sections of the side and bottom of the jacket almalki must not protrude beyond the edges of the patterns more than 0,5 - 0,7 see the bottom of the jacket cut. To reduce the thickness of the edges of the jacket in the lower corners of the boards are cut along the planned lines allowance for ACC and make the notch for processing by machine the lower corners of podborov.

Then outline the curve line ACC bottom right of the shelves and the back, and on the wrong side of the left allowance for processing slots scheduled by the patterns of the line of bending of the bottom slots. 

Outlined with chalk breaklines lapel and the location of the hinges on the left shelves is transferred to the right shelf light blows of the hand, folding shelves, right sides and equating sections. Cretaceous to the breakline of the lapel, hem and loops to navigate by car or by hand straight stitches with a length of 2 - 2,5 cm

The cutting action cuts the sides and bottom of the jacket is very important in the treatment of the sides, because from it depends largely on the quality and appearance of the product. If front trim is not enough precisely aligned with the shoulder sections and the sections of the arm openings, you may have various defects, for example different length shelves, the side pockets are not on the same level, the bias of the entire article. In case it is not almalki and pruning can happen uneven in shape and size the ledges of the lapels and corners of the boards, rough edges side and bottom, etc.

Before laying Nechaeva edges to reduce thickness of the edges of sides and lapel side strip cut: on-Board at a distance of 0.9 cm from the edge, on the ledge and lapel - 0.7 cm, the neck (from the point of the ledge to the line of inflection lapel) - 1.2 cm, bottom - 0.3 cm above the bottom line bending (Fig. 36). 

When laying the adhesive side of the edge strip is cut at a greater distance, so that it stuck to the shelf: the neck is at a distance of 1,2 - 1,5 cm from the cut edge, on the ledge and lapel - 1 - 1.1 cm, Board is 1.2 - 1.3 cm down to 0.5 cm above the line of bending the bottom.

To the side strip was not visible between the looped stitches, she cut each loop in the shape of a rectangle with a width of 1,5 - 2 cm and length 1 cm larger than the diameter of the buttons. In mass production on the side strip at the locations of hinges are applied with a special emulsion.

QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW 

1. What parts and at what distance from the edge smatyvay the side sections? 
2. In what area and why make the landing of the back, what is the value of this land? 
3. In what area and why make the landing shelves, what is the value of this land?
4. For some details grind off the side sections and what is the width of the seam? 
5. What lay in the edge of the armhole of the jacket and what are the ways paving? 
6. What are the methods for wet-heat processing sativum shelves before cutting slices? 
7. As a product on the table before cutting the slices? 
8. The sequence in which obmeleet side and cut slices and slices of the bottom of the jacket? 
9. What can cause defects if not properly prepare to trim the sides? 
10. Why cut the side strip under the edge?
11. At what distance from the slices cut side shelves the gasket on the collar, lapel, side and bottom? 
12. Is there a difference in cutting the side strip under nechaevu and glue edges?