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Home » Articles » The manufacture of men's and children's costumes

Treatment of the lower collar

The lower collar of the jacket consists of basic parts and gaskets. The lower collar makes the collar the required density and stiffness. The main detail of the lower collar consists of two or four parts, the gasket in two parts. Strip patch sew seam 1 cm wide seam, or butt.

Component parts the main parts of the lower collar folded right sides, to equalize the cut strut and grind off the seam width of 0.5 - 0.7 see the seams of the piecing together of parts of the lower collar moisturize and rautureau, then cut at a distance of 1 cm from the cut edge of the rack, leaving a seam allowance width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm At the main part of the lower collar from the inside is applied the gasket to equalize the cut and stands in the middle along primetyvajut details straight stitch length 2.5 - 3 cm, slightly Posiva gasket.

Then on the lower collar outline two lines: the first is parallel to the slice stands at a distance of 1.2 cm from it and the second bend line stand. Rack height in the middle and bottom of the collar is equal to 2.5 - 3 cm Distance from the ends of the strut to the ends of the collar depends on the width of the lapel. The gasket connect with the lower collar on the blindstitch machine or by adhesive fastening.

The blindstitch machine is a strip connected to the lower collar from the strip. The first line laid parallel to the cut stands at a distance of 1.2 cm from it, the other - parallel to the first distance between them of 0.7 cm (Fig. 43, a).

If the model requires more robust stand, we recommend that the front gasket to the part of the lower collar joined on the sanding machine of parallel lines with distance between them of 0.5 cm, and the departure - on the blindstitch machine (Fig. 43, b).

Quilted lower collar priorivet from the strip, straightening the edges. The lower collar by means of auxiliary patterns obmeleet from the stand and departure and cut along planned lines, making the notch cut in the rack for connection with the product. Shim the bottom of the collar stand is cut to fit vrachevanie the bottom seam of the collar into the neck of the product. 

In some cases, depending on the design of the products with the lower collar from the stand and departure delay and iron along the fold stands.

When connecting the strip with the lower collar glue method cut out a strip of fabric, covered on one side with adhesive powder (Fig. 43). On the wrong side of the lower collar applied gasket adhesive layer down, placing the seam of the strip at a distance of 1 and 1.1 cm from the edge of the rack, if the bottom collar connected to the neck of the bridging seam sanding machine, and at a distance of 0.1 - 0.15 cm, if it connects with the neck patch seam machine zigzag stitching.The right and left of the strip superimposed on one another by 0.7 - 1 cm, moisten and tie in to a press or iron.

When connecting the collars with the jacket patch seam to close the strip, differing sharply in color from the main fabric, lower collar are treated in line the rack with an additional strip of cotton fabric (calico, calico) with an adhesive coating, the same color with the main fabric (Fig. 44).In this case, the additional strip width of 1.5 - 2 cm, cut to shape of the strut sections of the lower collar, put the adhesive side on the lower collar at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from its slices by the line stands, placed on top the main strip, positioning it at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 cm from the slices stand, moistened and pressed.

 The bottom collar may be made of nonwoven material (such filca) made with an adhesive strip. This collar are cut on a special press or cut on the cutting of the tape machine. If filc manufactured without the gasket, the lower collar connects with an adhesive strip on the press.



Category: The manufacture of men's and children's costumes | Added by: 08.11.2017
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