For training purposes for the exact connection shoulder seams before stitching metiaut, paving the stitching of the back side at a distance of 0.8 - 0.9 cm from the slices and combining slices of the arm openings and neckline. At the same time to fit the shapes in the blades back pokazyvajut. The size of the landing depends on the design of the model and can be 0.5 - 1.5 cm In the beginning and end of the shoulder sections at sites with a length of 1.5 - 3 cm no landing. The greatest fit to make in the middle of the length of the shoulder seam.
After smachivaniya back moisturize and landing sativum, positioning the jacket on the last back up, shoulder slices to working. Sativum the edge width 2 - 3 cm
Shoulder seams sew back seam with a width of 1 cm of Thread from smachivaniya removed shoulder seams moisturize and rautureau press or iron on the special pad.
Jackets with shelves connected with the side strip at the shoulder cuts on the sanding machine, sew shoulder seams of the back side as described above, the enclosing of the back side strip of side fabric 2 cm wide (to equalize the thickness) are cut at an angle of 45' to the direction of warp or weft. Stripe a, equating it slices with shoulder sections, at a distance of 2 - 3 cm from the cut arm openings and a neck (Fig. 42, a).
Jackets with sew-in sock stitch shoulder seams sew back seam with the width of 0.5 cm, releasing the slices shelves for sections of the backrest on the width equal to the width of the seam felling plus 0.3 - 0.5 cm shoulder seams Then iron the back side and scribbled on the model (Fig. 42, b).
The accuracy of the connection of the shoulder sections depends largely on the processing quality and appearance of the final product. For example, change the width of the joint, grinding of the shoulder sections change the size of the openings: if the shoulder seams sew the seam wider than projected, the length of openings will be reduced, which would hinder the connection of the sleeves with the armholes and the proper distribution of planting sleeves. If you increase the landing at the shoulder cut of the back over the shoulder cut shelves have to be cut, but that will increase the neckline and shelves will diverge;when reducing the size of the landing shoulder of the cut backs will need to cut off the excess fabric in the neckline of the back, causing the length of the neck of the backrest will increase in the finished product, the collar will move away from the neck.
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