Side strip gives elasticity to shelves products and retains the form imparted to them during the wet-heat treatment. In addition, in the manufacturing process of the product to the strip fasten the side edge, the inner sections of podborov, front pocket edges, leaves, internal pockets, etc.

Details of side strips are interconnected by stitching or adhesive attachment method. Extension to side laying pritachivajut, and Darts (if they are stipulated by design) sew a patch seam, off-cuts of width 1 cm on the sanding machine or butt on the machine zigzag stitching. In the second method, enclose under tuck striped cotton fabric (calico, calico); the middle strap should pass through the connection sections of the strip. Seams in stitching tucks nullify, ending the stitching 1 cm beyond the end of the section.

To give elasticity to the shelves of the jacket in the chest area, in the center of the bulge on the side strip applied strip of hair tissues (columns). The upper section of the column is placed at a distance of 10 - 12 cm from the shoulder cut. The column is placed the pad, cut from the hair of the fabric, having its inner cutoff at a distance of 2 - 3 cm from the line of inflection lapel, and then a shoulder pad, adjusting the shoulder sections and the sections of the arm openings. 

In mass production of clothing hair and shoulder pads have on layouts.

All the details of the strips fasten the middle of one line along the side of the strip. Then the gasket have the details down and mysterybut on the machine zigzag stitching or sanding machine. Line 1 (Fig. 26, a) have the right and left of the middle of the strip at a distance of 1 - 2 cm from one another, retreating from the shoulder sections 4 - 5 cm it Should be borne in mind that the shorter the distance between the lines, the greater will be the elasticity of the treated area.Lining when wystawianie should be kept freer of side strip and the length and width to provide the necessary bulge in the chest area when forming the side spacers.

For greater stability of the lapel and the strength of the Board in the area of the hinges on the lapel and along the side scribbled a strip of nonwoven fabric or cotton fabric in the color of the main fabric. Shim under the hinges cut out and applied to warp it coincided with the direction of the cut loop, and the outer slice was located at a distance of 1.5 cm from the side of the cut strip. Line 2 is located at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the inner and lower sections of the strip.

To give the side strip convex shape in the chest area of its edge (on the side, the neckline and armhole) storevault. The quality of the execution of this operation depend on the shape and dimensions of the convex side of the strip and the proper fit of a jacket on the figure. All this affects the appearance and quality of the product. 

Side strip storevault press with cushions appropriate form or iron on the side block as well as shelves. Then strip separated and treated with a convex portion of each strip separately on the oval part of the pads by placing a pad oval edge up.

Jackets with duplicated shelves use extra pads which consist of a primary layer 1 (no lapels) (Fig. 26, b), and 2 shoulder pads. A shoulder pad with the main layer connecting adhesive or by machine. Line cutting collar base layer for additional pads scribbled with a little tension of the adhesive edge 3, having its adhesive layer to the side of the shelves.

In the garment enterprises using the Assembly side strip glue method. In this case, the main part of the strip cut without lapels. The padding of the lapels, shoulder pads and hair cut from coated fabrics with adhesive powder (Fig. 27, a).

The Assembly and shaping of the side strips is performed on a press with special pillows with the lower convex and upper concave surfaces. The bottom cushion of the press laid the main part of the side strip to one of the shelves. For laying on the markup put the hair plate adhesive down, then the two shoulder pads gummed up and down. Then stack the second hairline overlay gummed up and the main part of the side strip to the second shelf. Then the parts are moistened and compressed.Thus, the pressing connecting parts and formed in the strip simultaneously on two shelves.

At the side, bottom and side sections of hair extensions are paving the summary of adhesive metal edge of the fabric, covered on one side with a continuous layer of glue. A summary of the lay (glued) with special fixtures or facilities, positioning it so that the sections of hair lining held in the middle of the width of reports (Fig. 27, b). 

QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW 

1. What is the purpose of the side strip? 
2. From what parts is the side gasket? 
3. The sequence in which connecting parts of the side strip? 
4. What is the significance of the wet-heat treatment of shelves and side strips?
5. What is the sequence of execution of techniques stivania shelves and side strip in the process of learning? 
6. How is the wet-heat treatment of shelves and side pads in mass production of clothing? 
7. What is the advantage of the glue method of joining the side strips before the engine?