SHIRT WITH YOKE AND full-cut COLLARED 

Shirt (Fig. 277) for a boy; front yoke on the clasp. The sleeves are short with cuffs, collar shift. At the bottom side seams slits. Fabric cotton, striped or plaid. 
The drawing pattern boy's shirt 11 - 12 years old filmed the following measurements in inches: 
Semicircle neck ......... 16 
" his chest . . . .38 
Length shirts ................... 60 
" shoulder ..................... 11,5 
" sleeve ..................... 20 

Construction drawing of the back

Draw a rectangle АНВН1 (Fig. 278, a). 
A vertical line of equal measure the length of the shirt: an = ВН1 = 60 cm 
Horizontal line equal to the semicircle of the breast plus six inches for loose fit: AV = НН1 = 38 + 6 = 44 cm 
the depth of the armhole. From point A to postpone to bottom vertically 1/3 of the semicircle of the breast plus b cm: AG = 38:3+b = 18,7 cm 
Line the circumference of the chest. From point G draw a horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point G1.
Line the side seam. Line the circumference of the chest ГГ1 divided into two equal parts and supply point G2. From this point to hold down vertical line to the intersection with the horizontal and put a point of H2. 
The width of the openings. The width of the openings is 1/4 of the semicircle of the breast plus 2 inches: 38: 4 + 2 = 11.5 cm 
From a point G2 to be postponed left and right by half the width of the openings, and to put the points G3 and G4. From the points G3 and G4 to hold up the vertical line to the intersection with the horizontal and put the points A2 and A3; each line divided into three equal parts.
The width of the blade. From point And to postpone the right of the horizontal width of Rostock, equal to 1/3 semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm and put in point a is: AA = 16: 3 + 0,5 = 5,8 cm 
Height. From point a swipe up vertical line length of 1.5 cm and place the point A1. Points A and A1 to connect a smooth line. 
Shoulder line. For slope shoulder from point A2 to defer down vertically 2 cm, the Points A1 and 2 to connect a straight line to defer the shoulder length and put the point P: а1П = 11.5 cm
Line openings. Point G2 to connect with the lower breaking point direct А2Г3 and the line split in half; from the points of division to postpone 1.5 cm down 
the Line of openings to hold a smooth line connecting the point P; the point of division; 1,5; G2. 

Construction drawing of the front 

Width of the neck. From point b to delay the left horizontal width cap equal to the width of Rostock, to put the point B1: BB1=AA=5,8 cm 
The depth of the neck. From point b to delay down vertical 1/3 the semicircle of the neck measure plus 1 cm and put an end B2: BB2 = 16: 3+ 1 = 6,3 cm
From a point In a line dividing the angle in half, equal to the width of the neck is 5.8 cm and put an end B3. 
The neck to hold a smooth line connecting the points B1, B3, B2. 
Shoulder line. For slope of shoulder from the point A3 to lay vertical 2 see Point B1 and 2 are connected by a straight line, to delay the length shoulder and put the point P1: ВП1 = 11.5 cm 
Line openings. Point G2 to connect with the bottom point of the division on the line and А3Г4 conducted direct split in half. From the points of division to postpone down 1.5 cm 
Line of openings to hold a smooth line connecting the point P1; point of division; 1,5; G2.
Line yoke (applying line style). Through the openings from points P1 to defer down 7 cm and place the point K. From point K to spend to the right a horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put point K1. 
Line yoke divided into three equal parts and against points outline loop. 
The construction of the cap collar. To connect the dots of the K1 and B1 direct line to continue it for the point B1 to the length of the sprout and put an end B4: В1В4 = 6,3, see 
Points B4 and B1 to connect, as shown in the drawing.
From the point Q4 to a perpendicular is erected at a length of 7 cm and place the point B5. From this point hold to the right at a right angle line equal to the length of Rostock, and to put a point B6. From a point to hold the right line equal 5 cm, and put the dot 5. Connect the dots K1 and 5 by a straight line and keep it at 3 see Point 3 to connect the smooth line by point B6. 

Construction drawing of the sleeve 

to Draw the rectangle АА1НН1 (Fig. 278, b). 
A vertical line of equal measure-length sleeves: an = А1Н1 = 20 cm 
Horizontal line equal to the semicircle of the breast: AA1 = НН1 = 38 cm
Line of the height of the top part. From point A to defer down vertically 1/4 the semicircle of the breast plus 2 cm and place the point R: AR = 38: 4 + 2 = 11.5 cm 
From point R to right, hold the horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point P1. 
Horizontal line AA1 split in half, to put the point In, it hold down the vertical line to the intersection with the line of the bottom of the sleeves and to put the point H2.
Line the top part. Connect the straight lines point To points R and R1. The line BP to split in half from the point dividing a perpendicular is erected with a length of 1.5 cm Line BP1 divided into four equal parts. From the top point of division a perpendicular is erected with a length of 1.5 cm From the lower point of division is to drop a perpendicular of length 1 see 
to Connect a smooth curve point R; 1,5; V; 1.5; midpoint division and further point 1 and P1, as shown in the drawing. 
For ACC the sleeves to add on a length of 3 cm and 3 both points connect with a straight line.
From points H and H1 to defer to the right and to the left on 1,5 cm 1,5 Points connect points P and P1 and by point 3.

Preparing the pattern and cutting 

Cut the pattern along the line of the side seam. To identify the height of the slits 9 - 11 cm from the bottom of the shirt. The pattern of the front to cut through the yoke. 
The fabric is doubled common thread, stripes on stripes. 
All pattern pieces spread out, as shown in Fig. 279. 
Of cushioning fabrics the common thread to cut out a strip length equal to the width of the front of the shirt. Strip width of 5 cm 

Sewing

The equity strip, cut from cushioning fabric to tack to the top the cut of the shirts and pristroit (Fig. 280, a). Strip to bend inside out, Perignon in half, and tack, retreating to 1 cm from the bend (Fig. 280, b).
Baste and sew the shoulder seams lapped seam. Baste and sew the middle of the collar. Tack to the neckbackless podvorotni and vacate. 
The top of the collar to stitch, to tack to podvorotnya, pristroit and turn to the front side.
Shelf in the area of connection with the yoke delay between loops on a distance of 1 cm from the edge. Sweep loop. The shelf hooks to the armholes tack and pristroit. 
Sew shoulder and side sections. To handle the incision equity obrazkami. Hem the bottom of the shirt. 
Sew the sleeves. Bottom sleeve to turn inside out at 3 to 4 cm, to stitch and to roll for soft cuffs. To vacate sleeves. Sew on buttons. 

JACKET 

the Jacket (Fig. 281) - with belt on the back and along the lines of patch pockets. Pocket and belt trimmed with stitching and buttons. The fabric is smooth, wool or wool blend.
The drawing patterns jackets removed following measurements in inches: 
Semi neck............. 13,5 
>> breast ........... 30 
back Length to waist .............. 26 
" jacket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 
" shoulder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,5 
" sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 

Construction drawing of the back 

Draw a rectangle АНВН1 (Fig. 282, a). 
A vertical line of equal measure jacket length: an = ВН1 = 40 cm
The horizontal line is equal to the semicircle of the breast plus 7 cm free customized fit: AV = НН1 = 30 + 7 = 37 cm 
The depth of the armhole. From point A to defer down vertical 1/3 the semicircle of the breast plus 6 cm and place the point of G: AG = 30: 3 + 6 = 16 see
the line of the circumference of the chest. From point G to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point G1. 
The waist line. From point A to postpone upside down measure the length of the back to the waist and put the end T: at = 26 cm 
From point T to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point T1.
The width of the back. From point G to defer to the right horizontally the width of the back is about 1/3 of the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm, and put point G2: ГГ2 = 30 is: 3 + 4 = 14 cm 
From point G2 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal and to put the point A1. 
The width of the openings. From a point G2 to defer to the right horizontally the width of the armholes, equal to 1/4 of the semicircle of the breast plus 2 cm, and put point G3: Г2Г3 = 30:4+ 2 = 9.5 cm.
From the point G3 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal and to put an end A2.
Line the side seam. The width of the openings Г2Г3 divided into two equal parts and to put the point G4. From the point G4 to hold down the vertical line to the intersection with the line of the bottom of the jacket. At the intersection with the waistline to put the point T2, with a bottom line point of H2.
The width of the blade. From point A to defer to the right on a horizontal line the width of Rostock, equal to 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm and put the point a: AA = 13,5: 3+ 0,5 = 5 cm 
Height. From point a to hold up a vertical line equal to 2 cm, to put the point A1: Aa1 = 2 cm 
Line Rostock to hold a smooth line connecting the points A1 and A.
Shoulder line. For slope of shoulder from point A1 to postpone down vertical 2 cm From the point A1 to hold right through the point 2 a line is measure the shoulder length plus 1 cm for a landing shoulder seam for free fit the blades, and put a point P: а1П = a 9.5+1 = 10.5 cm. 
the Line of openings. From a point G2 to draw a line of length 2 cm, dividing the angle in half. 
The line of openings to hold from a point P of a smooth concave line that is tangent to the lines А1Г2, through point 2 to point G4.
Crease (line drawing style). For soft folds (below the belt) from point T to postpone down 3 cm and from point 3 to the right 10 cm From a point 10 the right to postpone the depth of the folds 2 see 

Construction drawing of the front 

Width of the neck. From point b to delay the left horizontal 1/3 the semicircle of the neck, plus a 2.5 cm and put the point B1: BB1 = 13,5: 3 + 2,5 = 7 cm. 
Depth of the neck. From point b to delay down vertical 1/3 semicircle neck minus 0.5 cm (height side) andto put the point B2: BB2 = 13,5:3 - 0,5= 4cm. 
the Points B1, B2 to connect a smooth line.
Shoulder line. For slope of shoulder from the point A2 to postpone down vertical 2 cm From the point B1 to hold the left through the point 2 a line is measure the shoulder length and put the point P1: В1П1 = 9.5 cm. 
Line openings. From point G3 to draw a line 1.5 cm long, dividing the angle in half. 
The line of openings to hold from the point P1 in a smooth line, tangent to the lines А2Г3, through the point 1.5 K point G4. 
Clarification of the bottom line. From the point H1 to postpone upside down 1.5 cm and a smooth line connecting the point 1.5 and H2.
3астежка. For fasteners from the points B2 and 1.5 hem to defer to the right: 2 cm; both points 2 are connected by a straight line. 
Podbot. To postpone to the left of the point B1 on the line of the shoulder 3 cm, from a point G1 - 6 cm, from the point of 1.5 - 4, see Point 3, b and 4 to connect the dotted lines. 
Construction drawing of the collar. From point B1 on the line shoulder to postpone 1 cm and draw a line that is tangent to the neck continuing it for the point 1 on the 5.5 cm (length of the sprout). To put the point B3. From the point B3 to the line В31 to hold up the line at a right angle, equal width of collar is 6 cm, 
to put the point B4.
From a point B2 on the line of the neck to delay the left and 1.5 cm from a point 1.5 m spend a line parallel to the middle of the collar (В3В4) equal to 4, see Point 4 to connect a smooth line with the point Q4 so that Q4 was a right angle. 
From the point 1.5 to spend right through the point B2 direct to the intersection with the line of the seam allowance for the zipper. 
Pocket (drawing line style). From the line of the side seam to postpone the right hem of the jacket 10 cm From the points 10 and H2 to delay up 8 see to Connect the two points with a straight line 8.
Belt. Half length belt is determined from the middle of the back to the end of the width of the pocket minus 2 cm (deep folds). Cape belt round 1.5 cm Width belt S see Outline loop in shared direction. 

Construction drawing sleeve 

Sleeve double seam, consists of upper and lower halves. 
For the drawing of the pattern sleeve to draw the rectangle АНА1Н1 (Fig. 282, b). 
A vertical line of equal measure-length sleeves: an = А1Н1 = 35 cm 
Horizontal line equal to 1/3 of the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm AA1 = НН1 = 30 is: 3 + 4 = 14 cm.
Line of the height of the top part. From point A to defer down vertically 3/4 of the depth armhole minus 1 cm and place the point R: AR=16:4x3 - 1=11 cm 
From point R to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point P1. 
Line А1Р1 divided into three equal parts, to put a point On the lower the point of division. Line AR is also divided into three parts and put points O1 and O2. 
Line of the elbow. Cut О2Н divided into two equal parts and to put the point L. From point L to hold the right a horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical, to put the point L1.
Line AA1 is divided into two equal parts and put the point B. 
From the point P1 to defer to the right horizontally, see Point 2 About connect with point In a straight auxiliary line and to divide it into two equal part. To defer to the right of the points of division perpendicular to the segment IN 1.5 cm from the point O1 to bottom vertically - 1.5 cm and put the point O3. From point O3 to defer to the left horizontally 1.5 cm and place the point P3. The points In O1 and connect auxiliary line to divide it in two equal parts. From the point of division a perpendicular is erected with a length of 1 cm.
Line the top part of the upper half of the sleeve. Line of lifts the sleeve to hold a smooth line connecting the point 2; 0; 1,5;; 1; O1; P3.

Preparing the pattern and cutting

For the preparation of the patterns to a copy of the cutter on a separate sheet of paper the contours of the pocket, collar, lower half sleeves and cut out. 
Fold the fabric in half at the joint direction of the middle of the back and top collar to put the fold of the fabric, all other details of the pattern - so as shown in Fig. 283. 
All the details to carve out. 

Tailoring

To note the depth of the pleats on the back point collar terminations of the line the cut of the neck and point terminations to a pocket belt. Baste side and shoulder seams, top collar with podvorotnya; votati collar the neckline. Sweep sleeves. To try.
Sew side and shoulder seams; resuturing and handle seams. 
Processing and vacate collar with podborta.
To stitch the finishing line at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge of the hem and the side with the front side of the jacket to the top of the loop. To stitch from the top hinge from podborta and on the upper side of the collar. Outline three loops on the left side. 
Sew the seam of the sleeve. Seams to resaturate and processing. Bend, sweep and hem bottom of sleeves. To vacate sleeves. 
If the material is dense, the pocket and belt to carve out Podkayne piping made of lining fabric.

To vitacare pockets. Belt bystrocice, and leave a space for vrachevanie pockets. Pocket pristroit to the lining belt (Fig. 284, a). Nepristoinuju part of the belt to bend and to stitch decorative stitching (Fig. 284, 6). 
Sweep loop on the belt. Tack pockets and pristroit to the jacket of the finishing line. Sweep loops and sew on buttons. 
Lay on the back of the jacket soft to the touch. To attach the belt to the pleats and side seam.