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Home » Articles » Women's and children's dress

ball Gown/Construction drawing the main pattern of the dress with cap sleeves and diamond-shaped gusset

BALL GOWN

Ball gown

Ball gown (Fig. 110) silk fabric: taffeta, moire, etc. the Skirt is wide in box folds. The bodice tightened on the figure, with the undercut below the line of the circumference of the chest. Collar large draped. The dress can be worn without the collar. Consumption fabric for medium size 5 m with a width of 75 cm
 
Dress should be worn with underskirt. Recommended for sizes to 48.

Lines cut and prepare patterns

Lines cut and prepare patterns ball gowns

Prepare the bodice of the dress to the waist for the basic pattern of the adjacent dress. 
 
 Back. From Rostock on the shoulder to defer 5 cm (Fig. 111, a) in the middle backless down 7 cm. From the point 7 to the right to hold a straight line with a length of 9 cm. Points 9 and 5 to connect a straight line. 
 
 Before. From the neck on the shoulder to defer 5 cm (Fig. 111, b). Point 5 to connect with the end of the lapel tuck. From the neck down in the middle of the front to postpone 8 see point 8 draw a horizontal line to the intersection with a straight line. 
 
From the left side of the chest Darts to postpone the left shoulder 1 cm, point 1 is connected also with the end of a chest tuck.
 
On the line side to defer up from the waist line 5 cm On the right side the first tuck on the waist line to delay up 10 see Point 10 and 5 to connect the auxiliary line. This line is split in half and the dividing point delay down to 1 cm. connect the dots 5, 1st 10 smooth line, get the line podraza. 
 
The construction of the collar. Collar based on the basic bodice pattern adjacent dress. To prepare the pattern bodice to the waist. For ease of drawing lines collar pin tuck translate to the waist line.

The construction of the collar

 Collar backless. From Rostock on the shoulder and mid-back delay by 1 cm (Fig. 112, a). Point 1 to connect a smooth line. From point 1 in the middle backless to postpone 15 cm down From point 15 to draw a horizontal line length 19 cm From point 1 at the top of the shoulder to defer 15 see Connect the dots 15 and 19 of the auxiliary line. This line is split in half and from the point division to defer to the left of 0.5 cm to Connect the dots 19; 0,5; 15 smooth line. This line connects the horizontal line 15 - 19 - line the edges of the collar. 
 
 Collar front. From the neck on the shoulder to defer to the left 1 cm (Fig. 112, b). From the neck down to delay in the middle of the front 23 see Points 23 and 1 to connect with a straight line. From the point 23 to postpone down 6 cm from point 1 on the shoulder line 15 cm 
 
From point 15 to draw a straight line with a length of 12 cm parallel to the middle front. Point 12 and used to connect an auxiliary line to divide it in half and from the points of division to defer up 1 see 
 
Connect the dots 12, 1 and b a smooth line. This line and the vertical line 15 - 12 - line the edge of the collar. Points 15 and 23 to connect the dotted line (line for draping).
 
The training patterns. Cut off the excess part the pattern bodice. Breast tuck to close and transfer tuck -open. Cut the pattern along the line of podraza continue from point 10 (see Fig.111, b) up to the end of a chest tuck.
 
To close the first and second Darts at the waist front. 
 
The back and front of the collar cut and weld on shoulders. Cut line 23 - 15 (see Fig. 112, b), without bringing the cut to the point 15 on the 2 3 mm. 

the layout and cutting

The layout on the fabric parts patterns ball gowns

Bodice. Fabric folded double edge with edge. Put the middle of the front, back and collar the fold of the fabric (Fig. 113) common thread. 
 
The collar along section line to push on six inches for draping. 
 
Piping neck armholes and collar to put, as shown in Fig. 113. To find all the details of the bodice. 
 
Skirt. For cutting skirts will need fabric width three times more measurements full thigh circumference (104 cm), with the addition of 4 cm on a free fit: (104 + 4)X3 = 324 see 
 
Calculation of width and depth of the box pleat at the hip line. In accordance with the style should lay 8 box pleats.
 
Width box pleats: 108 : 8 = 13.5 cm 
 
Depth box pleats: (324 - 108) : 8 = 27 see 
 
calculating the depth of the soft folds at the waist. The width of the skirt at the line the waist has some excess that needs to be removed. The excess tissue lay in soft folds on the middle of each bow. The depth of each folds is equal to the difference between the measure of the circumference of the waist and measure the circumference hips with the allowance divided by 8 box pleats, i.e. depth the folds will be: (108 - 76) : 8 = 4 see

Razmolvka skirt

Razmolvka skirt. For this cut the skirt length easier to cut according to the transverse filaments (Fig. 114). Therefore, the seam in the skirt will be one in the fold counter-pleats at left side of skirt. Measure the width of the skirt in accordance with the calculation: 324 + 2 (on the seam) = 326 cm 
 
Length skirt from the waist 70 cm + 1 cm (seam) + 4 cm (filing). Hem the bottom of the skirt, ironed to markup. From the edge, measure 1cm (the seam), outline with chalk the line from which to measure the skirt length and 18 cm to the hip line. To hold the horizontal lines of the bottom and thighs.
 
Right-to-left mark 1 cm on the seam, draw a vertical line across the length of the skirt. From this line to the left in accordance with the calculation to measure on the hip line 6.75 cm (1/4 the depth of the bow). From point b,75 to measure the width of the bow is 13.5 cm From the point 13,5 measure 27 cm - depth counter-pleats. 
 
Through the intended point draw a vertical line from the waist to the bottom of the skirt. And so to outline the rest of the box pleats.
 
At the bottom of the skirt the width of the bow on each side to increase by 3 cm due to reduce the depth of wrinkles. Point 3 connect the straight lines with a width of the bow on the waist line. Outline the soft folds on the middle of each bow in accordance with the calculation. 

Fitting and tailoring 

For preparation dresses to the fitting to sweep away the undercut on the bodice. Baste side and shoulder cuts. On the collar is to lay the drape on a soft crease. 
 
To cover a box pleat and soft pleats on the skirt.
 
At the fitting cut-out dress at desire can be increased. If the skirt on the fitting is wide or narrow on the waist line, the width can be changed soft folds: to increase their depth or decrease. 
 
After trying to migrate all changes from right side to left, stitch tuck, the undercut, sew side and shoulder seams. To combine the bodice with skirt. Treating neck and arm openings. The collar at the neck the neck to sew the bias tape - rack width, 1.5 cm in finished form; rack pull at the neck of the collar.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING the MAIN PATTERN of the DRESS WITH CAP SLEEVES AND DIAMOND-shaped GUSSET 

For the construction of the pattern dresses with cap sleeves of different styles: long with gusset without gusset short, with undercut under hand, etc., are drawing a regular or semi-fitted surrounding dresses. The plan prepares separately for back and front. 
 
On compiled pattern is applied to the line style. 
 
In the drawing the main pattern of the dress with cap sleeves and diamond-shaped gusset removed following measurements (in cm): 

a semi-circle neck................ 18
The semicircle of the breast ............ 48 
Semicircle waist ............. 38 
the Semicircle of the hips .............52 
shoulder Width (control measure)..19 
back Length to waist ............. 38 
the length of the dress .......................... 108 
Height bust .......................... 32,5 
front Length to waist (test measure) 51 
shoulder Length............................ 13 
sleeve Length .......................... 58 
sleeve Length to elbow ............ 33 
the Semicircle of the wrist ........ 9 

the plan for the drawing back

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING THE MAIN PATTERN OF THE DRESS WITH CAP SLEEVES AND DIAMOND-SHAPED GUSSET

Draw a rectangle АА1НН1 (Fig. 115). 
 
The vertical line of the rectangle is equal to the measure of the length of the dress: an = А1Н1 = 108 see 
 
Horizontal lines of the rectangle correspond to the width of the dress equal to the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm for loose fit (for all sizes): AA1 = НН1 = 48 + 4 52 see 
 
the depth of the armhole. From point A to defer down the line to the middle of the back, a distance equal to 1/3 of the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm (for all sizes), and put point G: AG = 48: 3 + 4 = 20 cm.
 
Line the circumference of the chest. From the G-spot to hold right horizontal line to the intersection with a line the middle of the front and put the point G1. 
 
The waist line. From point A to postpone upside down measure the length of the back to the waist and put the end T: at = 38 cm
 
From point T to hold right horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical А1Н1 and put the point T1. 
 
Line of the hips. From point T to postpone down vertically 18 cm and place the point B: TB = 18 cm (for all sizes). 
 
From point B to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point B1.
 
The width of the back. From point G to defer to the right of the circle's circumference the chest width of the back is about 1/3 of the semicircle of the breast plus 3 cm (for all sizes), and put an end G2: ГГ2 = 48: 3 + 3 = 19 cm 
 
From point G2 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal and to put an end A2. 
 
The width of the openings. From a point G2 to defer to the right of the line the circumference of the chest width of the armholes, equal to 1/4 of the semicircle of the breast, and to put the point G3: Г2Г3 = 48: 4 = 12 cm 
 
From point G3 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal and to put an end A3.
 
Auxiliary line side. The width of the openings divide in half and place the point of G4. From the point G4 to hold down vertical line. At the intersection with the bottom line is to put the point H2, waist point T2, with a line of hip point B2. 

Construction drawing of the back 

Width of the blade. From point A to defer to the right horizontally the width of the sprout is about 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm and put point a: AA = 18: 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm
 
Height. From point and to hold up a vertical line of length 2 cm and put an end A1. Then the line to continue up a further 0.5 see Point 0.5 and A connecting smooth line - the line of Rostock. 
 
Shoulder line. For slope shoulder from point A2 to defer down vertically 2 cm From point A1 to hold right through the point 2 and a straight line equal to the shoulder length plus 1.5 cm on fit the shoulder seam, and put a point P: а1П = 13 + 1,5 = 14,5 cm 
 
From a point P up to postpone 1 cm and put an end P1.
 
Line а1П divided into three equal parts. From the first point of division from left to defer up 0.5 cm and put an end A2. 
 
To hold the line of the shoulder, connecting the dots 0,5; A2; L1, as shown in the drawing.
 
The slope line of the sleeve. Cut А3Г3 split in half and put an end O. From point O to defer to the right horizontally 2 cm and place the point O1. 
 
From the point P1 through the point O1 to conduct a supporting line of slope sleeve length sleeves measure plus 2 cm on top seam fit sleeves, and put a point P: П1Р = 58 + 2 = 60 cm.
 
Line top seam sleeves. From the point P1 at the line of inclination of the sleeve to postpone the sleeve length to elbow-to-measure plus 1 cm for a landing and supply point L: П1Л = 33 + 1 = 34 see 
 
point L perpendicular to the line of inclination of the sleeves to hold the line of the elbow of arbitrary length. From point R is also perpendicular to line of slope sleeve to hold the auxiliary line of the bottom sleeve of arbitrary length. 
 
From point O1 in a perpendicular is erected equal to 1 cm From the point P to delay up 2 see the Line of the upper seam of the sleeve to pass through the points P1, 1, L and 2, as shown in the drawing.
 
The bottom of the sleeves. From point 2 down in a straight line to postpone the width of the sleeve equal to the semicircle of the wrist plus 1 cm free customized fit, and put the point P1: 9 + 1 = 10 cm 
 
the Line of the bottom of the sleeves to pass through the points 2, 1, P1, as shown in the drawing. 
 
Undercut the gusset. From a point G2 to defer to the right 2 cm From the point at G4 the vertical line to defer down 6 see Point 2 on the left and point b to connect with a straight line podreza the gusset.
 
Line the bottom seam sleeves. From point b draw a line parallel to the auxiliary lines tilt the sleeve to the intersection with the line of the elbow and to put the point L1. From point L1 to be postponed left and right, 1,5 cm (depth tuck) and up 5 cm (height tuck). Point 5 to connect with 1,5 points by straight lines. 
 
Right side tuck in the point 1.5 to connect with point P1 in a straight line. A line drawn through point b; 1,5; 1,5; R1, there is a line bottom seam sleeves.
 
Line the side seam. From the point T2 to delay the left on line waist 2 see the calculation of the allowance on the hip line and changes the line side seam runs from the middle of the armhole. 
 
The difference between the merc semicircle hips with the addition of free customized fit and width the product is distributed equally to the back and the front: (52 + 3) - 52 = 3 cm; 3: 2 = 1,5 cm
 
From point B2 to defer to the right on the hips 1.5 cm. For the brace side of the weld to defer from the point D2 to the right 6 see Point b and 1,5 connecting straight line, which is to continue higher over the hips to 9 Then, see points 9 and 2 to connect a smooth line. Points 2 and b have podraza gussets to connect with a straight line. 
 
From point 2 (line waist) to postpone by a line drawn the length of the skirt 70 cm, equal to the differencebetween the standards of length and length back to waist: 108 - 38 = 70 cm 
 
Line drawn through points 70; 1,5; 9; 2; b, will be the line of the side seam.
 
Line the bottom of the dress. Point 70 is smoothly joined with a horizontal line of the rectangle. 
 
Tuck on the back. A tuck at the back to build, as shown in the drawing. 
 
The construction of the gusset. Auxiliary vertical line from the point G4 to last up to 6 cm and place the point O2. From the point G3 to postpone left 2 see Point b and O2 to combine with 2 points and 2 straight lines. 

Build a plan drawing of the front

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING THE MAIN PATTERN OF THE DRESS WITH CAP SLEEVES AND DIAMOND-SHAPED GUSSET

Draw the plan of the drawing the front (Fig. 115, b) is the same as for the back. 

Construction drawing of the front 

length of the front. From point A1 to continue up the vertical line. From the point G1 to defer up vertically to 1/2 of the semicircle of the breast plus 0.5 cm (for all sizes) and put a point IN: Г1В = 48: 2 + 0,5 =24.5 cm. 
 
From the point T1 to postpone down 1 cm Distance from the point In to the point 1 will be the length of the front. This distance must be equal taken a test measure the length of the front minus the length of the sprout. If it is not will be equal to the control measure, you have the length correct.
 
Width of the neck. From point b to hold the left horizontal line with a length of 12 - 15 cm 
 
From a point on this line to defer the width of the neck equal to the width of Rostock, and put the point B1: BB1 = 6.5 cm. 
 
Depth of the neck. From point b to delay down vertical 1/3 the semicircle of the neck plus 1.5 cm and put an end B2: BB2 = 18: 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm
 
From the point In to draw a line that divides a right angle in half with a length of 7 cm (mouth width plus 0.5 cm) and put an end Q3: In the OT = 6,5 + 0,5 = 7 see 
 
Points B1, B3, B2, connect a smooth line - neck.
 
Length shoulder to tuck. From point B1 to defer to the left horizontally 4 cm. From point 4 down - 1 see Points 1 & B1 connect by a straight line, which is cut the shoulder to tuck. 
 
Breast tuck. From point G1 to defer to the left horizontal distance to chest tuck length 9.5 cm (sum of the width of the neck and the shoulder length to tuck minus 1 cm) and put an end G5: Г1Г5 = 6,5 + 4 - 1 = 9.5 cm. 
 
Points 1 and G5 to connect a straight line (right side tuck).
 
The distance from point B1 to G5 should be removed measure the height bust minus the length of the sprout. If this distance is not equal to the standards, it is necessary to shorten or lengthen a straight line from point G5. 
 
Line А2Г2 divided into four equal parts. Point 4 to connect the auxiliary line with the upper point of division on the line А2Г2. 
 
From the point G4 to hold up the vertical construction line to the intersection with the upper auxiliary line and at the intersection of supply point P. From point P to defer to the right of the auxiliary lines 9 cm(length of shoulder-to-measure minus 4 cm): 13 - 4 = 9 cm.
 
From the point G5 to hold up through the 9 point a straight line equal to the right side tuck, and to put the point P1. Line Г5П1 - left side tuck. 
 
Length from shoulder Darts to the armhole. From a point P to postpone down construction line 2 cm (bevel shoulder of the front), and connect the dots 2 and P1 in a straight line. From the point P1 by a line drawn to postpone 9 cm, i.e. the remaining length of the shoulder and put the point P2.
 
The slope line sleeves. From the middle of the dividing point on the line А2Г2 to postpone the left inhorizontal 1 cm and place the point O. From point A2 through the point to hold the auxiliary line of inclination of the sleeve equal to the length of the sleeves measure, and put a point P: П2Р = 58 cm 
 
From the point P2 by the auxiliary lines to defer the sleeve length to elbow-to-measure and put a dot L: П2Л = 33 cm 
 
Cutting of the gusset. From the point G3 to delay the left 2 cm, from the point G4 down on the vertical line - 6 see Points 2 and used to connect straight line undercut sleeve to gusset.
 
Line the bottom seam of the sleeve. From the point b (on line podreza the gusset) to hold the auxiliary lineparallel to construction line of inclination of the sleeve. Then measure the length the bottom seam of the sleeve in the drawing of the backrest (see Fig. 115, a) from point b to point P1 without tuck and the sleeve length to the elbow from the point b to the top point of 1.5. 
 
Both measurements transferred to the drawing of the front from point b (see Fig. 115, b) the construction line and put the points L1 and R1. 
 
Point LL1 to connect by a straight line - line of the elbow. 
 
From the point L1 through the elbow to postpone 1 see 
 
Line bottom seam of the sleeve to pass through the point b, 1 and P1.
 
The bottom of the sleeves. The point P connected with the point P1, from which the lines to postpone the width of the bottom of the sleeves equal to the semicircle wrist plus 1 cm free customized fit: 9 + 1 = 10 cm 
 
to Hold a smooth line - the bottom of the sleeve through the point 10, 1, P1, as shown in the drawing. 
 
Line the upper seam of the sleeve. From point O to postpone it to the left 0.5 cm Distance from point O to point L, divide in half and from the points of division to restore the perpendicular is equal to 1, see 
 
the Line of the upper seam of the sleeve to pass through the point P2;0,5; 1; L; 10.
 
Line the side seam. From the point T2 to delay right 2 cm, from the point B2 to the left - 1,5 cm, from the point H2 to the left - 6 cm Point b and 1.5 connect direct a line and continue it above the hip line on the 9 see Point 9 to connect with point 2 to the waist line smooth line. Then point 2 to connect with the point b at podreza a straight line. 
 
From point 2 (line waist) for the line to defer the skirt length 70 cm, equal to the length skirts on the side seam of the back. A line drawn through points 70; 1,5; 9; 2; b, is the line of the side seam.
 
Clarification of the lines of the waist, hips and the bottom of the dress. Point 1 on the line of mid front to connect with the point 2 on the waist line in a smooth line. 
 
From point B1 to postpone down 1 cm and the point 1 is connected with a point of 1.5 on the line of the hips. 
 
From point D1 line the middle of the front to continue on to the 1 cm point 1 connected to point 70 is a smooth line. 
 
Darts at the waist front. From point 1 to postpone 8 cm (the distance from the point G1 to the point of the G5 minus 1.5 cm): 9,5 - 1,5 = 8 see
 
Connect the dots 8 and G5. From the point G5 carried by line to delay down 6 cm From point 8 to be postponed to the left 3 see Point b and 3 connect. The depth of the tucks. 3 cm split in half and the dividing point hold down the vertical line with a length of 12 cm Connecting point 12 points 3 and 8, get the first tuck.
 
To construct a second tuck distance from point 3 to point 2 to split in half. Through the point of division draw a vertical middle line Darts down from waist length 12 cm and up, not leading the line at 6 cm to the circle line breast; to postpone to the right and to the left of the dividing point 1 see Point b and 12 connect the straight lines with points 1 and 1 on the waist line.



Category: Women's and children's dress | Added by: 20.10.2017
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