BATHROBE HOME WITH LARGE COLLAR
In Fig. 118 depicts the Bathrobe home with a large one-piece collar and patch pocket. Line the edges of the collar and top of pocket is trimmed with colored wood stains and soutache matching fabric. Soutache can be replaced embossed stitching with colored thread.
Sleeve shift short. The Bathrobe at the waist neotrazimoi. In the front tuck on the waist line on the right side of the front utchen belt ties at left side of front bow. The fabric is cotton or silk. Consumption of fabric for a medium size 4.75 m with a width of 63 cm
lines cut and prepare patterns
To prepare a dress pattern with cap sleeves and undercut through the openings (see Fig. 117). For this pattern to apply a line style.
Back. From the hip line to draw a vertical line to the line of the bottom of the dress (Fig. 119, a).
Before. Line the bottom of the dress continue to the right on 15 - 18 cm (Fig. 119, b). On the line of hips to be postponed from the middle of the front right 2 cm From the bottom neck through the point 2 draw a straight line to the bottom of the dress and at the intersection to put the point N. Held video is a new mid front (mid-front move to the floors did not disperse).
The design of the Board. From neckline to postpone new down the middle of the front 4 cm Perpendicular to the middle forehand to defer from point 4 to the right 8 cm, waist - 7.5 cm, hem of the dress from the H-point and 8 cm Distance from point 4 to the waist line to divide in half, and from the points of division to defer to the right 10 see Points 8, 10 and 7.5 to connect a smooth line. Point 7,5; 8 (bottom line) connect with a straight line.
The construction of the cap collar. From the bottom of the neck to defer to the right 16 cm From the top of the neck on the shoulder to the left to defer 7 cm (1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 1 cm).
From point 7 to defer up perpendicular to the shoulder line 5 see Point 5 and B1 connecting a straight line. From point 5 to hold up at right angles to the line 5V1 straight length 15 cm, Points 15 and 16 connect the auxiliary line which is divided into three equal parts and from the points of division to defer to the right 3 see Point 15, 3, 3 and 16 to connect a smooth line, the points 16 and 8 with a straight line.
Podbot. From point B1 to defer on the left shoulder 4 see Point 4 and T to connect the auxiliary line. Below this point podborta width equal to the width of the Board.
Translation lapel Darts. From left Darts at the shoulder line to hold down a straight line
parallel to the right side of the tuck, extending it 2 cm below the line of the circumference of the chest. To measure the depth of the tucks at the shoulder line. The resulting size to be postponed on the shoulder, the left held straight and put an end B2.
From point 2 through point B2 draw a straight line equal to the length of the right line tuck. The end of this line at the top to connect a straight line with the bottom of the sleeves.
Line the sides of the bodice is divided into three equal parts. The top point of division and point 2 are connected with a dotted line which is the line of translation of the tuck.
From the hip line to draw a vertical line to the bottom of the dress.
Pocket. On the right side of the first tuck on the waist line to delay down 6 cm From point b to the left to draw a straight line with a length of 17 cm parallel to the waist line.
From points 17 and b at a right angle to delay down 20 cm; connecting point 17, 20, 20, 6, you will get a rectangle. Of the bottom corners of the rectangle draw a line with a length of 2 cm, dividing the angles in half. Through the points 2, 2 to make the bottom of the pocket smooth line.
The training patterns. Pocket and podbot collar to translate on a tracing-paper. Podbot cut off at the waist. Cut the braces at the sides. Pin tuck at shoulder line to close and transfer for line transfer Darts.
Layout and cutting
The fabric is doubled face common thread. To bend the fabric to put the middle of the back (Fig. 120).
The upper part of podborta to put the middle of the front common thread. To carve out the back and podbot. The remaining fabric to put a face with a face with an elbow by a transverse filament.
The middle of the front to put a common thread.
Other details to put, as shown in Fig. 120.
To find all the details of the Bathrobe.
Fitting and tailoring
Prepare the dress to the fitting and try on.
After fitting sew the tuck on the line side. Sew the side sections of the double seam.
Shift collar in the middle of the back and shoulder seams to sew and resuturing on two sides. Along the snares to cut the undercut of the sleeve on the front. On the back cut the fabric between the line side and sleeve until the end of podraza. Sew the undercut, take in a seam of 0.5 cm and negate a line to the end of the section. Then sew the sleeves along the length, also taking to the seam of 0.5 cm Seams often be swept off to one side. Sleeves oblachat.
Collar sew in the middle, pritchet to sprout, remove the seam on the collar. Sew podbot waist. To put a face with face podbot and gown, exactly their waist, hips and the middle of the collar.
Colored binding from fabric finishing could be podkralas, but to save fabric allowed the stitching at the corners.
Bend bake at 0.5 cm from the waist line with front side inside out and put it between podborta and the product (Fig. 121, a) to the front side of the borders formed on the front side of the gown. All together to sweep away.
To prepare the waistband in ready-3 cm, length 20 - 25 cm, put it between podborta Bathrobe and right halves of the front waist. Sweep and pristroit at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge. To straighten the seam and padbolt turn inside out. Free slice podkralas finishing bakey bend 0.5 cm and pristroit in the edge of the collar (Fig. 121, b).
Width finishing podkralas bakey must be ready to 3 cm.
Soutache to pristroit on the machine at a distance of 2 - 3 cm from the borders.
To the top of the pocket to pritchet finishing bake from the inside pocket and remove on the front side. Further shaping and finishing is the same as that of the collar.
The other side of the pocket to bend 0.5 cm on the front side on the reverse. Put the pocket on the right half of the front and pristroit.
Waist in front and tuck the right half of the front to sew in the waist, length 75 - 85 cm Tuck sew and to stitch only place terminations belt.
DRESS OF STRIPED FABRIC WITH CAP COLLAR
Dress (Fig. 122) with a single cut collar, inset and short sleeves. Skirt video in the Assembly, and Welt pockets trim the straps. A leather belt to match the dress.
The fabric is cotton, silk or staple in the strip.
Consumption of fabric for average size 3.3 m with a width of 80 cm
lines cut and prepare patterns
To prepare the pattern of the bodice with short cap sleeves (see Fig. 116) without front and rear Darts at the waist line.
Back. Waist to postpone the distance to the folds (substitute tuck), is 7 cm and depth of wrinkles 3 cm (Fig. 123, a) From points 7 and 3 to hold up the vertical line with a length of 2 - 3 cm (for folds).
Before. Delay by 4 cm (Fig. 123, b) from both sides of the chest Darts on the shoulder and tuck end of the line of circumference of the chest. Hold new side tuck, extending it 2 cm below the chest line.
Line the sides from the waist to the armhole split into three parts. Point of the top division to join the straight dashed line with the end of the displaced tuck.
Waist to postpone the distance from the middle front to the first folds equal to 8 cm, from point 8 to postpone 3 cm to the depth of the folds; the distance to the second folds 5 cm, depth 2 see Outline vertical lines lines folds.
To build the insert from the neck at the shoulder line to delay 1 see through the middle of the front from the chest to defer down 6 cm and from point b to hold the left horizontal reference line equal to the width of the insertion 7.5 cm From point b through the middle of the front to delay down 5 cm to Hold the line of insertion, connecting the dots 1; 7,5; 5.
For closure to be postponed from the point 5 to the right 2 cm, the circumference of the circle of the breast extend to the right to 2 see Both points 2 are connected by a straight line. From the bottom 2 to defer up to 1.5, see Point 5; 1,5; 2 (top) connect the straight lines.
The construction of the cap collar. To build the shift collar to hold a construction line from the upper point 2, point the top of the neck, extending the line up to 8 cm in length sprout.
From point 8 at a right angle to postpone to the left 3 see Point 3 to connect the auxiliary line with the top of the neck. From the middle of a line drawn to defer to the right 0.5 cm. connect the dots 3; 0.5, and the top of the neck smooth line, get the line terminations of the collar to the back.
From point 8 to continue construction line up on 2 cm draw a straight line seam of the collar from point 3 through point 2 with a length of 8 cm.
From point B2 to hold to the right of the subsidiary line is equal to 6 cm and to defer 5 cm down From point 5 to hold the right auxiliary horizontal line of length 4 cm and postpone it 1 see Point 8 and used to connect auxiliary line. From the middle of this line to defer to the right 2 cm to Hold the line of the collar of the connecting points 8, 2, b 1 and a smooth line.
To build a side from a point 4 to delay down 0.5 cm to Connect a point 0.5 points 1 and 2.
On the line of circumference of the chest to identify one loop for the clasp.
The training patterns. Close a breast tuck, chipping it with pins, and make the cut to the side line of the translation of the tuck. The shoulder line equalize by putting a ruler on the top of the neck and end of shoulder, marked with a control stamp. Cut in front of line insertion.
To prepare the pattern of the pocket with the strap and the burlap on the sizes specified in the drawing (Fig. 123,).
Layout and cutting
Cut the two fabrics for the skirt length 77 cm (length custom-made plus 7 cm). The pattern of the bodice to put the lines in the middle of the front and back on fold of the fabric (Fig. 124).
The rest of the fabric to bend in a transverse filament. On this fabric to lay out the pattern of the insertion, making sure that the strips on the right and left sides match. The pattern of the pocket with the strap and the burlap is to put a straight cut along the grain lines.
Fitting and tailoring
Tack box, sweep tucks and folds, shoulder and side sections of the collar through the middle of the back; tack the collar to the back. Sweep the side sections of the skirt. The upper section of the skirt to gather on the threads for Assembly. To connect the bodice to the skirt. To try on the dress.
Start sewing a dress with piping loops and pocketing. Then you sew the back seams of the collar insert and podborta. Podbot to put a face on the front side of the insert, exactly at the seams of the collar, tack and pristroit on the edge. Remove podbot inside-out panels that sweep around the edge. To handle the reverse loop. To impose the right side of the insert on the left, exactly through the middle of the front, and sweep. To process the corners of the bodice. The bodice is imposed on the insert and the face of the delay from the line of insertion of 0.7 - 1 cm.
Sew the side tucks, folds, shoulder and side sections. Tack and pristroit collar inserts (making the notch in the corners), exactly the seam of the collar with the middle of the back.
The other side of the collar to bend and sew the seam to the stitching. Handle sleeve pokrainini obrazkami, sew the seam of the skirt to hem. Sew the skirt with the bodice. Sew the button on. To iron dress.
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