BLOUSE WITH DRAPE
 

Blouse (Fig. 44) finished placket at neck; clasp on large buttons. On the blouse, under the strap, laid soft folds of the drapery. Sleeve vtachnoy, tuck hem, 3/4 length. Recommended thin wool or thick silk and staple fabrics.
Consumption of fabric for average size of 1.8 m and a width of 75 cm

lines cut and prepare patterns
 

Prepare the basic pattern of the blouse and pattern of sleeve with the addition on the free fit 2 see
Back. To sprout allow to stand 3 cm (Fig. 45, a) in the middle back and 2 cm at the shoulder. Points 3 and 2 to connect a smooth line. From point 2 to the shoulder line to hold a smooth line. To outline the dotted line for podkralas piping Rostock, equal to the width of 5 cm.
Before. Lengthen chest tuck 2 cm (Fig. 45, b) and from point 2 draw a horizontal dotted line, to extend it for the middle of the front half of the strap width - 2.5 cm From point of 2.5 to postpone the left in dotted lines, the strap width 5 cm Line from point 5 to point 2 is the line transfer Darts.
From the top of the neck to defer up to 2 cm and from point 2 to the right 1.5 cm From a point 1.5 to the top of the shoulder to hold a smooth line.
To build a strap of 1.5 point to connect with point of 2.5 auxiliary line and divide it into three parts. From the bottom division to defer to the right of 1 cm.
Draw the right side of the strap, connecting the dots 1,5; 1; 2,5 a smooth line.
Draw the left side of the plank parallel to the right at a distance of 5 cm from it.
To build the lower part of the plate in the middle of the front from the dotted line to delay down 4 cm and connect both sides of the strips with point 4, as shown in the figure.
The loop is scheduled in the middle of the strap at the bottom.
Sleeve. On the basic pattern of the sleeves in the midline to defer the sleeve length 47 cm (Fig. 45,) and through the point 47 to draw a line parallel to the line of the bottom of the sleeves. Sleeve narrow at 3 cm from the lateral
of the parties. Plotting points to connect with crown sleeves. Tuck to chart on the middle left half sleeve. The length of the tuck 12 cm depth - 5 cm to Hold the dotted line for podkralas piping sleeves 3 cm wide
The training patterns. Cut the pattern from the sleeve portion of the excess, and the patterns of the front bar. Close the tuck, chipping it with pins, and cut the pattern along the line of translation of the tuck. For additional folds to make a split pattern (Fig. 46): the first 1 cm above the solution of the Darts, and cut to the line of openings; the second is to identify above the first on the neck by 1 cm, and openings - 5 cm
To prepare the pattern obrazek Rostock and sleeves.
 

Layout and cutting

Fold the fabric in half with the fold at the common thread. The pattern of the front to put the middle on the fold of the fabric and then push on the 2 cm line cuts for the folds of drapery. The layout of the remaining parts of the pattern on the fabric and a raise on the seams shown in Fig. 46.

Fitting and tailoring

To lay the folds, tack strips, sweep away sections of the shoulder, side, sleeve and try on the blouse. Fitting are presented on pp. 258 - 265.
To oblachat the loop on the strap. Folds on the blouse lay bend up and sweep, Pricecat the bar from the bottom folds up to the shoulder cut. The seam to press on the bar. Sew and resuturing shoulder seams. Sew at the shoulder sections podblanc with the sprout facing and resuturing seams. To oblachat neck podpolanie. Bend on the wrong side of the edging edge of podblanc and piping, stitch along the edge and sew the seam to the seam of the planks. To handle the reverse loop.
Sew Darts at the waist, side seams and resuturing. Tuck a hem, to hem a hidden seam and priotity. Sew and resuturing seam and tuck on the sleeves. To oblachat bottom of sleeves pokrainini obrazkami. To votate and vacate sleeves. Sew the button on.

Blouse with undercut from the armhole
 

In Fig. 47 depicts blouse with undercut from the arm openings and soft pleats; banded collar, 3/4 sleeves. Closure with three buttons.
For this style recommended in fine wool, thick staple or silk fabrics.
Consumption of fabric for average size 1.9 m for a width of 80 cm
Lines cut and prepare patterns
Prepare the basic pattern blouse without front and rear Darts at the waist, shortened the pattern by 3 cm, to prepare a main pattern sleeves.
 

Back. Waist to postpone the distance from the middle of the back to tuck to 7 cm (Fig. 48, a), then the depth of the tuck - 3 see to Divide the depth of the Darts in half and draw a vertical construction line to the bottom line of the pattern. Connect the dots 7 and 3 with the end of the construction line.
Before. The pattern from the top of the neck draw a vertical line equal to 12 cm (Fig. 48, b). From point 12, draw a horizontal line, extending it for the middle of the front of fastener 2 cm From the bottom of the pattern to defer to the right 2 cm and connect both points 2. To distribute the loop: top - 3 cm below the neckline, bottom - 3 cm above the waist and medium in the middle (between the top and bottom).
To construct a line of podreza to defer from the shoulder line through the openings 11 cm on both sides of the tuck - in 15 cm From point 12 to hold the dotted vertical line with a length of 4 cm Connecting points 11, 15, 15 and 4, get a line podraza.
Waist to postpone the distance from the middle front to the first tuck, is equal to 8 cm, then the depth of the tuck - 3 see Dividing the depth of the Darts in half, to hold an auxiliary vertical line to the middle of the tuck to the bottom line of the pattern. Connect the dots 8 and 3 with the end of the construction line. The distance between the first and second recesses is equal to 5 cm From the point 5 to postpone the depth of the Darts 2 cm Dividing the depth of the Darts in half, draw a vertical construction line to the middle of the tuck to the bottom line of the pattern. Connect the dots 5 and 2 with the end of the construction line.
Sleeve. On the pattern sleeve in the midline to defer the sleeve length 47 cm (Fig. 48) and through the point 47 to hold the line of the bottom of sleeve, parallel to the bottom of the pattern.
The construction of the collar. Build the rectangle ABC (Fig. 48, g).
The width of the rectangle equal to the dimensions of the neck plus 2 inches: AB = VG = 7 + 12 + 2 = 21 cm.
The height of the rectangle equal to width of collar front, i.e. 10 cm: AB = BG = 10 cm.
From point B to postpone to the left of 2 cm, to Connect points 2 and G. From point A to defer down 3 cm connect the dots 3 and 2 smooth line, get the line terminations of the collar. From point b to delay up 1 see to Connect the smooth line of points 1 and G.
The construction of the cuff. Build the rectangle ABC (Fig. 48, d).
The width of the rectangle equal measure arm circumference 22 cm: AB = VG = 22 cm
The height of the rectangle equal to the width of the cuff plus 2 inches: AB = BG = 5 + 2 = 7 see
Horizontal lines split down the middle. The dividing point to connect the dotted line. This line upward to postpone 2 see Point 2 are connected with a dot and G a smooth line.
From points A and B to delay down 2 cm to Hold a smooth line from the dividing point on the line AB through
points 2 and keep it at 2 cm in both directions. Get a line terminations cuffs. Connect the end points of a line drawn from b To G.
The training patterns. Cut the neck line style. To do the undercut by a broken line 11 to 4 (see Fig. 48, b). Close the Darts to podraza, chipping it with pins. Tuck from podraza to lay down folds. The depth of folds is equal to the depth of the tuck line podraza.
 

Draw a dotted line podkraj of podborta width of 6 cm (Fig. 49), and the neck is wider than the cutout 2 at the Top of podborta comes to the line of podraza. Podkraj of podborta cook separately, not cutting it from the main pattern.
The excess part of the pattern sleeves to cut.
The pattern consists of the following parts: back, front, sleeves, collar, podvorotnya, cuffs, and podmenili podkraj of podborta.

Layout and cutting

Fold the fabric in half with the fold at the common thread. Lay all pattern pieces on fabric, cut
blouse, making a raise on the seams as shown in Fig. 49. From the remnants of fabric to tailor the oblique bakey a width of 3 cm to handle the collar.

Fitting and tailoring

Sweep the crease, sweep tuck, undercut, shoulder and side sections and try on the blouse.
To oblachat loop. Sew the undercut, sew and press Darts in the middle to the front and to the back. Sew shoulder and side sections.
To prepare the collar and put it on the front side of the blouse, exactly the middle of the collar to the middle of the back, and the ends with the angle of the neck.
Podkralas podbot to put a face on the front side of the blouse, tack around the edge terminations to the collar. Then on top of the line terminations of the collar to put the bias tape, tack it and pristroit collar and podbora. To make nadziejko in the corners to line and remove podbot and the bias tape inside out. Sweep along the edge. The bias tape to bend to its width was not more than 1.5 cm, and sew a hidden seam to blouse. The free edge of podborta bend and stitch along the edge. Processing of the reverse loops. Bend and hem the bottom of the blouse, covering his podborta.
Sew and resuturing the seams of the sleeves. To prepare the cuff. Instead of the assemblies from the elbow side of the sleeves to lay a few folds. Tack and pristroit cuffs. To votate and vacate sleeves. Sew on buttons.

BLOUSE WITH CAP COLLAR
 

Blouse with cap collar, longitudinal lines, short set-sleeves shown in Fig. 50. Zip PA with three buttons.
For this style we can recommend thick cotton or silk fabrics.
Consumption of fabric for average size of 1.6 m and a width of 90 cm

lines cut and prepare patterns

Prepare the basic pattern of a blouse without the first tuck on the waist line and cutting out the sleeve with the increase in the free fit 2 cm sleeve Length 24 cm
 

Back. A line mid-back to extend up to 1 cm (Fig. 51, a). Point 1 to connect a smooth line with a height of Rostock. To defer along the lines of the middle of the back and sides from the waist down for 9 see to Connect the resulting points. Extra patterns to cut.
Before. The pattern to pin a piece of paper for a single cut of the collar . The drawing of the collar to hold up from the top of the neck of the subsidiary line (Fig. 51, b), equal to 1/3 of the measurements of the semicircle neck plus 3 cm (for all sizes): 18 : 3 + 3 = 9 see
From point 9 to postpone left 4 cm, and from point 4 down - 3 cm at right angles. Point 3 to connect the top of the neck by a straight line to sewn the collar to the back.
From point 3 through point 9 to draw a line the width of the collar in the back, is equal to 8 cm.
From the middle of the front to build mysyk to defer to the right 8.5 cm Point 8 to connect with a point to 8.5 construction line and divide it in half. From the points of division to defer to the left of 0.5 cm to Connect the dots 8; 0,5; 8,5 a smooth line.
From the line of the neck in the middle of the front to delay down 10 see point 10 for the clasp to postpone 2 cm to the right From point 2 to hold to bottom of dress patterns a line parallel to the middle of the front. Point 2 to connect with a point to 8.5 auxiliary line; from the middle of this line to delay 1 see to the left to Connect the dots 8,5; 1; 2 smooth line.
Breast tuck to move at the shoulder line to the left by 2.5 cm At the waist from center front to defer to the left 5 see Point 5 and 2.5 to connect. From the point of 2.5 to postpone the left, the depth of the chest tuck. The left side of the chest Darts to bring to the lines. From point 5 to postpone to the left of the depth of the first tuck on the waist 3 cm From the end chest Darts to defer down 6 see Connect the dots b and 3. The depth of the tuck to split in half and the points of division to hold an auxiliary vertical line to the bottom of the pattern. From the bottom of the pattern to postpone 2 see Connect the dots 5 and 3, with point 2.
The delay to line the sides and in the middle of the front from the waist down 9 cm Length of blouse from the waist in the tuck 12 see Point 12 on the right side of the tuck to connect with point 9 in the middle of the front and extend the line to the edges of the clasp. Point 12 on the left side of the tuck to connect the auxiliary line with point 9 on the line side; to divide the line into three parts. From the right point of division to defer up to 1.5 cm and left 1 cm to Hold a smooth line through the points 9; 1; 1,5; 12.
Outline loops: the first at 10 points, the second - on the waist line, and the third in the middle.
Sleeve. To defer the sleeve length is 24 cm From bottom of sleeve to measure for hemming 4 cm (Fig. 51,) and the dotted line of bending the bottom sleeve. The line of bending on both sides to narrow the sleeve 1.5 cm Straight lines to connect the dots 1.5 with crown sleeves and bottom line.
The training patterns. Cut the pattern along the line of cut and cut Darts. The excess part of the pattern of the back, front and sleeves cut off.
The pattern consists of the following parts: back, front (two separate parts), the sleeves and podborta.

Layout and cutting
 

Fold the fabric in half with the fold at the common thread. To arrange the details and cut of the blouse, making a raise on the seams, as shown in the drawing (Fig. 52).

Fitting and tailoring

Baste both front detail, bust Darts, back cut of the collar, shoulder and side sections and sleeves.
Tack the collar to the back and try on the blouse.
To oblachat loop. Sew both parts of the front and press the seam toward middle front. Handle collar, podbot. To process the reverse side of the loops, sew Darts and side sections. Hem the bottom of the blouse a hidden seam. Sew the sections of the sleeves. Remove the inside bottom sleeve line bending, bend and hem a hidden seam. To votate and vacate sleeves. Sew on buttons.