BLOUSE WITH PLEATS

In Fig. 35 depicts blouse with pleats. The placket, the back is smooth; long sleeves sewn cuffs; fold-over collar closed.
 
Blouses of this style are elegant, elegant, fashionable and always recommended for women of any age. Folds can be located in groups of some small or large folds, or both.
 
For this style recommended smooth fine cotton and silk fabrics. Consumption of fabric for average size of 2 m and a width of 80 cm

lines cut and prepare patterns
 

 
Prepare the basic pattern of the blouse and sleeves (Fig. 36, a). Darts at the waist line not to outline. Tuck lapel cut.
 
For the pattern to collar and cuffs to build drawings.
 
The construction of the collar. Draw the rectangle ABC (Fig. 36, b).
 
The width of the rectangle is equal to the measure of the semicircle neck plus 2 inches: AB = VG = 18 + 2 = 20 cm.
 
The height of the rectangle equal to the width of the collar front: AB = BG = 8 cm.
 
From point B to postpone to the left horizontally 2 see Points 2 and G connect with a straight line.
 
From point A to defer down 2 cm to Connect the two points 2 a smooth line.
 
The construction of the cuff. Draw the rectangle ABC (Fig. 36). The width of the rectangle equal measure arm circumference plus 4 inches: AB = VG = 18 + 4 = 22 cm

The height of the rectangle equal to the width of the cuff 4 cm AB = BG = 4 cm.
 
Preparation of the front of the blouse to reveal. For any arrangement of tucks preparation front blouse to reveal are the same.
 
To measure out on the fabric the length of the two shelves with the addition of 6 cm for seams and cut the fabric. On this segment to prepare box pleat (box pleat) zipper and stitch the folds.
 

 
To cut the edge on one side and to bend the fabric in half by a transverse filament (wrong side inside). Make an incision along the fold of fabric 10 cm (Fig. 37, a) from the cut edge.
 
To deploy the fabric. On the bottom half of the fabric that will be the right shelf, bend the front side inside 3.5 cm (Fig. 37, b). From the resulting bend, measure the width of the box pleat, equal to 4 cm, and again to turn inside out (Fig. 37). Sweep at 1 cm from the bend and defer. Then
also to defer the other side of Banovci (Fig. 37, g).
 
Align the two halves of the piece of fabric. For this bend on the left shelf inside the excess fabric to measure out from the fold of 4 cm, the remainder of the cut. Edge bend 0.5 cm to Baste and stitch along the edge (Fig. 37, d).
 
To lay the thread in the middle of Banovci. At the same distance from the edge to lay the thread on the other half of the piece. Then stitch the folds throughout the length of the cut tissue. For the first folds of the laid thread in the middle of the front of the shelf to the left measure the width of the neck plus 2.5 cm (6,5 + 2,5 = 9 cm) and pull the thread. At this distance from the middle of the front zastrochit to the first crease. For the three folds need to pull out six strands. The distance between the first two strands of 2 cm, between the following - 1 cm, 2 cm, 1 cm and 2 cm Folds to cover and stitch in the torn threads.The width of each crease in the finished form is equal to 1 see Implementation of folds is set out on page 283.

Layout and cutting
 

 
First of all cut out the shelves of a fabric with the prepared folds and snap closure. For this it is necessary to bend the fabric in half, exactly both sides on a string laid in the middle of Banovci. Put the pattern of the shelves so that the middle of the front of the pattern coincided with the middle of Banovci (Fig. 38). Pattern sleeves to put the middle common thread. If remaining tissue is not to find the entire width of the sleeves, allowed the extension at the rear halves of the sleeve. The rest of the fabric fold equity to fold and cut as shown in Fig. 39, taking into account allowances for seams.

Fitting and tailoring 
 
Trainingblouses to the fitting, the fitting and sewing are presented on pp. 258 - 265.
 
When you run this feature, consider the following.
 
To move a tuck under the last fold. For this pattern to put the right side of the tuck on the line last folds and lay snares on the left side of the tuck (Fig. 40).
 
Baste the tuck from the narrow end to the wide and align the shoulder seams, put a ruler at the highest point of the shoulder and armhole. To lay the thread on the fixed lines of the shoulder.
 
Shoulder seams shelves and back sweep of the back side, exactly at neckline and armhole.
 
The side sections of the blouse and sleeves sweep on the front side (seams sew DOUBLE SEAM).
 
The side sections sew a double seam. Sew shoulder seams. Handle collar and votati in the neck (see p. 265).
 
Sleeves sew the double seam, to prepare and sew the cuffs to the sleeves. To votati sleeves (see page 267).
 
After the second fitting to vacate collar and sleeves.
 
Hem the bottom of the blouse narrow ribs (see Fig. 19).
 
To identify loops in the middle box pleats at the common thread fabric: upper hinge 2 cm below terminations of the collar, bottom - 2 cm above the waist line, the rest of the loop is at an equal distance from one another.
 
For support, elastic waist should measure 4cm down from the inside to tack and pristroit oblique or transverse bake, pre-bending of its edges. Pull the rubber band and attach it to the clasp. From the inside of the right shelves to the place of attachment of the gum to sew the hook and on the front side of the left shelves to make a loop of thread.

BLOUSE WITH SCALLOPED YOKE AND THE TUCKS

In Fig. 41 shows a blouse with a notched yoke. The side of the front vystroeny folds. The banded collar. 3/4 sleeves, cuffs.
 
Fabric - silk or cotton.
 
Consumption of fabric for average size of 2.6 m and a width of 70 cm

Drawing lines cut and prepare patterns
 

 
To prepare a basic blouse pattern without Darts at the waist line and the main pattern sleeves. To shorten the pattern blouse 3 cm (Fig. 42).
 
Pin tuck moved 2 cm to the left (Fig. 42, b) and shortened by 1.5 cm in the Middle of the front from the neck down to lay 10 see point 10 to hold the left of the dotted line with a length of 4 cm. From point 4 draw a vertical line down to the bottom of the pattern. From the shoulder through the armhole to postpone down 12 see Points 12 and 4 to connect with a point of 1.5 at the end of the tuck.
 
From the middle of the front to postpone the right for closure of 2 cm and draw a line parallel to the middle of the front, extending upwards to a 1 cm Point 1 to connect with the middle of the front.
 
Outline loops: the first 2 cm below the neck, the second 2 cm above the waist line, the rest of the loop is at an equal distance from one another.
 
Through the middle of the sleeve (Fig. 42) to postpone a length of 45 cm and draw a line parallel to the line of the bottom of the sleeves.
 
The construction of the collar. Build the rectangle ABC (Fig. 42, g).
The width of the rectangle is equal to the measure of the semicircle neck plus 3 inches: AB = VG = 18 + 3 = 21 see
 
The height of the rectangle equal to the width of the collar plus 5 cm: AB = BG = 6 + 5 = 11 cm.
 
From point B to postpone to the left 3 cm, from a point - up 6 see plotting points to connect straight construction line. From the middle of this line to defer down 1.5 cm to Connect the dots b; 1,5; 3 smooth line, which will be the line terminations of the collar.
 
Side of the rectangle BG to split in half. To obtain the contour of the collar from the points of division to hold a smooth line to a point In parallel to the line terminations of the collar and direct to the point 3.
 
The construction of the cuff. Build the rectangle ABC (Fig. 42, d).
 
The width of the rectangle equal measure around the hand at the junction of the cuff with the sleeve plus 4 cm for closure: AB = VG = 26 + 4 = 30 cm.
 
The height of the rectangle is twice the width of cuff: AB = BG = 6x2 = 12 cm.
 
Lines AB and BG split in half. The dividing point to connect the dotted line. From the points of division on the dotted line delay by 0.5 cm. Point of About 5 (on the left) to connect points A and b, and the point of 0.5 (right) - with points B and G.
 
The training patterns. Pattern shelf cut for applying line style, pin tuck close, chips with pins. The excess part of the pattern sleeves to cut.
 
Pattern blouse consists of the following details: backless, shelves (two separate parts), sleeves, collar, and cuffs podvorotnya. To handle mysyk the shelves prepare the pattern podkralas piping (see the layout pattern on the fabric, Fig. 43).
 
From fabrics intended for shirts, measure and cut the length of the two lateral parts of the shelves plus 6 cm for seams. On this piece of fabric to calculate and stitch the folds.
 
From the edge of the fabric to postpone 1 cm for the seam and 1.5 cm (half the depth of the folds), of 2.5 cm, and pull the thread; then measure the distance 1.5 cm between the folds and at 3 cm to the depth of the folds and pull the thread. To make a layout of the fabric for 12 folds.
 
Sweep, zastrochit and ironed the folds.

Layout and cutting
 

 
Fold the prepared piece of fabric in half, with the fold in a transverse filament. To tailor the lateral part of the shelf, marking the edge of the pattern on the first line of the folds. To provide a raise on the seams as shown in Fig. 43.
 
From the remaining fabric after cutting the sides of the shelves to carve out cuffs.
 
The fabric is suitable for the remaining parts, fold in half, fold the common thread. Lay the pattern on the fabric (Fig. 43, b), putting the middle of the back, collar and podvorotnya the fold of the fabric. The middle of the sleeve pattern to put the common thread. Part of the pattern from the line side of the elbow will not fit on the fabric, cut the patterns and put the cutting line on the lobe filament of the fabric. The pattern of the front of the shelves to make allowances: 2.5 cm (1.5 cm - half depth of pleat plus 1 cm for seam) and 6 cm for sealing of the rim.Podkraj piping of mysyk cut out so that the direction of threads on the facing corresponds to the direction of their front parts shelves.

Fitting and tailoring 

Preparations for the fitting and the fitting are presented on pp. 258 - 265.
 
Processing mysyk podkralas the facing. Podkayne obtachku to put a face on the front side of the front of the blouse. Tack and pristroit from the armhole to the corner. To turn the facing inside out.

Sweep along the edge. Remove inside the raise of the tissue (2.5 cm) to half the depth of the folds. Sweep bend line and priotity.
 
To put the front detail on the side with pleats, tack. Sew from the inside edge of the folds and the upper edge of the piping with the edge of the side panel. Allowance for closing side (6 cm) loosen the front side.
 
To stitch the neckline from the fold side to the middle of the front. To make nadziejko to stitch through the middle of the front, remove the seam allowance from the inside out, sweep around the edge and priotity.
 
Sew and resuturing shoulder and side seams. Hem the bottom of the blouse. Handle collar, metati and pritchet to the neck (see Fig. 166), sew sleeves, sew the cuffs (see page 267). To vacate sleeves. Sweep loop. Sew on buttons.