The patterns of blouses of different styles are made on the basic pattern that has no lines style. The breast tuck, not being part of the cut required to shape the product in accordance with the bulge of the breast.

To obtain the patterns of blouses of various styles prepare the basic pattern of the blouse and sleeves removed standards. (Fig. 31)

The main pattern is applied to the line of cut, with a breast tuck, you can move in any direction: to the neck, the armhole, the side seam lines, waist, to the middle of the front, undercut, etc.

A tuck move in the following way:

1) outline the new direction of the Darts in accordance with the design;

2) a basic tuck in the pattern closed, saliva pins or salaiva;

3) cut the pattern according to the new intended direction for tuck.

To build a single cut collar, allowances for fasteners and other add-ons to the basic pattern pin or glue a piece of paper on which to draw the necessary additions.


For additional folds, assemblies, canteen, etc. are given allowance when cutting by spreading pattern.


Collars for blouses should match the style of the blouses, so the drawings of the patterns of collars are given directly to each style blouses.


The following describes production of the main patterns of the blouse and on its basis the manufacture of the patterns of blouses of various styles: with pleats, with a shaped yoke and pleats, draped with the undercut from the armhole, with a single cut collar.


In addition to the production of patterns for each style blouses are cutting, especially fitting and tailoring (for this style). More fitting and tailoring (for various products) presented in a special section "Information technology".

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING THE MAIN PATTERN BLOUSE 

The main pattern blouse is made on withdrawn standards.
The drawing pattern removed following measurements (in cm):
The semicircle of the neck........... 18 
"breast ....... 48
"waist ....... 38 
"hip ...... 52 
Front length to waist (measurement control)..... 51
Shoulder width (control measurement).................. 19 
Back length to waist ........ 38
"blouse ..................... 56
Height bust.................... 32,5
Shoulder length....................... 13

the plan 

Draw a rectangle АА1ББ1 (Fig. 32), pre-defining it.
The vertical line of the rectangle is equal to the measure of the length of the blouse: AB = А1Б1 = 56 cm.
The horizontal line rectangle is equal to the semicircle of the breast, plus 5 cm for loose fit (for all sizes): AA1 = BB1 = 48 + 5 = 53, see
  the depth of the armhole. From point A down the vertical to defer a distance equal to 1/3 of the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm (for all sizes), and put an end to G: AG = 48 : 3 + 4 = 20 cm
  Line the circumference of the chest. From the point G to the right, draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical А1Б1 and supply point G1. Get a line the circumference of the chest - ГГ1.
  The waist line. From point A to postpone upside down measure the length of the back to the waist and put the end T: at = 38 cm
From point T to hold right horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical А1Б1 and put an end T1; get the waist ТТ1.
  The width of the backrest. From point G to defer to the right of the line of circumference of the chest a distance equal to the width of the back, i.e. 1/3 of the semicircle of the breast plus 3 cm (for all sizes), and put the point G2. Back width ГГ2 = 48 : 3 + 3 = 19 cm
From a point G2 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal AA1 and put an end A2. This line divided into four equal parts.
  The width of the openings. From a point G2 to defer to the right of the line of circumference of the chest width of the armholes, equal to 1/4 of the semicircle of the breast, and put an end G3. The width of the openings Г2Г3 = 48 : 4 = 12 cm.
From the point G3 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal and to put an end A3.
  Auxiliary line of the side seam. From a point G2 to defer to the right 1/3 of the width of the armhole and put
point G4: Г2Г4 = 12 : 3 = 4 see
Through the point G4 draw a vertical line up to 0.5 cm, down to the intersection with the horizontal line of the bottom of the blouse. The point of intersection labeling: with the hips - B2, with waist - T2.

Construction drawing of the back

Construction drawing of the back is performed on the prepared plan. Counting and lay the main lines in the following sequence.
  The width of Rostock. From the point A (Fig. 33) to defer the right of the horizontal width of Rostock, equal to 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm (for all sizes), and supply point. The width of Rostock AA = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm
  Height. From point a to hold up a vertical line of length 2 cm and place the point A1. Then the line to proceed up another 0.5 cm.
0,5 points and connect a smooth concave line, which will be the line of Rostock.
  Shoulder line. For slope of shoulder from the point A2 to defer down 2 cm (for all sizes). From point A1 through point 2 to the right to hold a straight line, equal to measure the shoulder length plus 1.5 cm on the landing shoulder seam, for a free fit of the blades, and put a point P: а1П = 13 at + 1.5 = 14.5 cm.
The line is 14.5 cm, divided into three parts and 0,5 point to connect a smooth line from the left point division. The line from point 0.5 to N and will be the shoulder line.
  Line openings. From a point G2 to draw a line that divides a right angle in half, equal to 1/4 of the width of the armhole: 12 : 4 = 3 cm.
To hold from a point P in a concave line that is tangent to the line А2Г2 (between the middle and lower points), and further through point 3 to point of 0.5. This will be the line of the armhole.
  Line of the side seam. To ensure that the product was wrapped in beautiful shape, the line of the side seam on the waist line is cut or tuck, and the line of the hips - an additional allowance.
Below are the calculations of allowances and Darts to back and front.
To calculate the depth of the Darts at the waist line it is necessary to find the difference between the width of the product (53 cm)
and measure the waist of the semicircle with the addition of free customized fit (38 + 3): 53 - (38 + 3) = 12 see
The obtained difference divided by the number of tucks at the waist, i.e., at 4: 12: 4 = 3 cm
  Depth of the side tuck is 1/4 of the difference plus 1 cm: 3 + 1 = 4 see
  the depth of the tuck on the back is equal to /4 of the difference, i.e. 3 cm
  Depth for the first tuck on the waist line in frontand is 1/4 of the difference, i.e., 3 cm;
  Depth of the second tuck on the waist line of the front is equal to 1/4 the difference minus 1 cm: 3 - 1 = 2 cm.
To calculate the allowance on the hip line it is necessary to find the difference between the size of the semicircle of the hips with the addition of free customized fit (52 + 4) and width of the product (53): (52 + 4) - 53 = 3 see
The resulting difference of 1/3, i.e. 1 cm, attributed to the extension of the back at the hip line, and 2/3, i.e., 2 cm, on the extension of the front at the hip line.
  For building line of the side seam to lay from the point T2 to the left waist and 2 cm from the point B2 to the right of the line of hips - 1, see the line of the side seam to hold from a point 0.5 point 2 in a straight line, then to point 1 smooth line.
  Tuck on the back. From T point to the right waist to postpone 7cm (width of the sprout plus 0.5 cm).
From point 7 the right to postpone the depth of Darts equal to 3 cm; this distance is divided in half and through the point of division draw a vertical middle line of the tuck up, not bringing it to six inches to the line ГГ2, and down a length of 12 cm.
Points 6 and 12 connect the straight lines with dots 7 and 3.

Construction drawing of the front 

  length of the front. From point A1 (see Fig. 33) continue up the vertical line. From the point G1 to defer up vertically a distance equal to half of the semicircle of the breast plus 0.5 cm (for all sizes), and to put an end to: Г1В = 48 : 2 x 0.5 = 24.5 cm.
Distance from a point to point T1 will be the length of the front.
  Width of the neck. From point b to hold the left horizontal line with a length of 15 cm and to postpone the segment BB1 equal to the width of Rostock: BB1 = AA = 6.5 cm.
  Depth of the neck. From point b to delay down vertically a distance equal to 1/3 of the semicircle of the neck plus 1.5 cm (for all sizes), and put an end B2: BB2 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.
From the point In to draw a line that divides a right angle in half, equal to the width of the neck plus 0.5 cm and put an end Ot: Vvz = 6,5 + 0,5 = 7 cm.
Points B1, B3, B2, connect a smooth line, which will be the line of the neck.
  Length shoulder to tuck. From point B1 to defer to the left horizontally 4 cm (for all sizes). From point 4 to postpone down 1 cm (for all sizes). Points 1 & B1 connect by a straight line, which will be the length of the shoulder to tuck.
  Breast tuck. From the point G1 to defer to the left horizontally a distance equal to 9.5 cm (sum of the width of the neck and the shoulder length to tuck minus 1 cm - shoulder Darts for all sizes), and put an end G5: Г1Г5 = 6,5 + 4 - 1 = 9.5 cm.
Points 1 and G5 to connect a straight line; it will be right side tuck. The resulting length of the tuck you need to check by measuring the distance from point B1 to point G5; this distance must be equal to the removed measure the height of the bust minus the length of the germ of curve: 32,5 - 7,5 = 25 cm.
If there is a discrepancy with the measure it is necessary to change the length of the Darts, shortening or lengthening straight from point G5.
Point 4 to connect the auxiliary line with the upper point of division on the line А2Г2. The width of the armhole - cut Г2Г3 split in half and the dividing point to hold up a construction line to the intersection with the inclined construction line and put the point P1.
From the point P1 to defer to the right (for construction lines) 9 cm (length of shoulder-to-measure minus 4 cm, i.e. the cut of the shoulder from the neck to tuck): 13 - 4 = 9 cm.
From the point G5 to draw through the point 9 the straight line is equal to the right side of the tuck, and put the point P2. Line П2Г5 will be the left side of the tuck.
  Length from shoulder Darts to the armhole. From the point P1 to postpone down under the support line 3 cm (bevel shoulder of the front for all sizes); points 3 and P2 connecting a straight line. From the point P2 by a line drawn to postpone 9 cm, i.e. the length of the tuck from shoulder to armhole and to put the point P3. Length from shoulder Darts to the armhole П2П3 = 9 see
  the Line of openings. From the point G3 to postpone upward 1/4 line Г3А3 and to put a point On that connecting point P3 by a straight line. Line П3О split in half and the dividing point right to postpone 1 cm and Then from point G3 to draw a line that divides the angle in half, length 2.5 cm (1/4 armhole width minus 0.5 cm): 12 : 4 - 0,5 = 2,5 cm
From the point G3 to the left horizontally to postpone the cut, equal Г3О, and to put the point O1: О1Г3 = Г3О
Combining a smooth concave line of a point P3; 1;; 2,5; O1; 0.5, we obtain the line of openings.
  Line the side seam. From the point T2 to defer right at the waist 2 cm, i.e. half side tuck (see calculation tucks at the waist). From point B2 to defer to the left of 2 cm (see calculation of width of hips).
The line of the side seam to hold from a point 0.5 point 2 on the waist line with a straight line, then smooth (see drawing) to point 2 on the line of the hips.
  Refinement of the waist and hips. From point T1 to postpone down 1 see Points 1 and 2 on the waist line to join.
From point B1 to defer down the middle of the front 1 cm point 1 to connect a smooth line with a point 2 on the bottom line.
  Darts at the waist line. Front blouse as we already know, has two Darts: one on the center of the chest and the second to the left of the first.
The distance from the middle front to the first tuck on the waist line equal to the distance from the point G1 to the point of the G5 minus 1.5 cm (for all sizes): 9,5 - 1,5 = 8 cm.
Points 8 and G5 to connect a straight line. To defer from the point G5 down by a line drawn 6 cm from point 8 to the left - 3 cm (depth of the first tuck on the calculation). Points 6 and 3 to connect with a straight line. The depth of the tucks. 3 cm split in half and the dividing point down to make a vertical midline tuck a length of 12 cm and Point 12 to connect with points 3 and 8 straight lines.
A vertical line А3Г3 extend down to the intersection with the waist line and further to 12 cm From the point of intersection of the right and left delay to 1 cm From the point G3 to delay down 6 see Points 6 and 12 connect the straight lines with points 1 and 1 at the waist line, as shown in the figure.

Construction drawing of the basic pattern sleeves 

The main cover sleeve for blouses can be considered the sleeves were straight, with long cuffs. This pattern is easy to tailor the sleeves and a different style.
The drawing of the pattern sleeve is removed following measurements (in cm):
Sleeve length ........................ 60
"" to the elbow .......... 33
The semicircle of the breast ........... 48
To build a rectangle АА1НН1 (Fig. 34, a).
The vertical line of the rectangle is 60 cm (measurement of the length of the sleeve minus 1/2 the height of the cuff):
An = А1Н1 = 60 - 3 = 57 cm
The horizontal line is equal to 38 cm
(1/3 of the semicircle of the breast plus 3 inches and multiply the result by 2): AA1 = НН1 = (48 : 3 + 3) x 2 = 38 cm
The horizontal lines of the rectangle divided into four equal parts and the dividing point connect the straight vertical lines see Fig. 34).
At the intersection with the line НН1 to put the H2, H3 And H4
In the middle of the line And A1 to put the point V.
  the height of the top part of the sleeve. From point A on a vertical line down to postpone a distance equal to 3/4 the depth of the openings minus 1 cm, and to put the point R. the height of the crown of AR = 20 : 4 x 3 - 1 = 14 cm.
From point R to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point P1.
  The construction of the line lifts the shoulders. Points P and P1 to connect to a point In straight lines. At the intersection with the lines of the elbow and the front folds of the sleeve to put the points O and O1.
Each occurrence of RO, S, VO1 and О1Р1 split in half.
In the interval RO distance from point R to the point of division to divide again in half and from the points of division to delay down 0.5 cm.
From the point Of delay to line up 1.5 cm From the points of division to hold the perpendicular lines to the segment S up 2 cm, to cut VO1 - up 1.5 cm and О1Р1 to cut down 2 see
To hold the line of the top part of the sleeve smooth line, as shown in the drawing through the point R; 0,5; the breaking point of 1.5; 2; V; 1,5; O1; 2; P1.
  Line elbow. From point b to delay vertically down the measure length sleeves to the elbow 33 cm 33 Through the point draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical lines of the rectangle.
  The bottom line is. To defer up vertical lines from the points H and H1 at 1 cm from a point H2 - 3 cm; from the point H3 - 1.5 cm.
Point 1; N4; 1,5; 3 and 1 to connect a smooth line - the line of the bottom sleeve, as shown in the drawing.

Construction drawing pattern cuff

Draw a rectangle АА1ББ1 (Fig. 34, b).
Vertical lines equal to the height of the cuff: AB = А1Б1 = 6 cm.
The horizontal line is equal to the wrist circumference plus 4 cm clasp: AA1 = BB1 = 18 + 4 = 22 cm