The various styles of bras. The bra depicted in Fig. 25, consists of two halves, front and back, with Velcro at back with linen hinges.
For bras recommended thick cotton or silk fabric: damask, satin, satin etc.
The fabric consumption for the average size of 0,5 m and a width of 70 cm
The drawing pattern of the bra is removed the following measurements (in cm):
The semicircle of the breast.... 48
under the breast .... 40
Length straps....... 34 - 36 cm (fitting length specified).

Construction drawing of the front halves of the bra
 

Build the rectangle ABC (Fig. 26, a).
The vertical side of the rectangle is equal to one-third of the measurements of the semicircle of the breast plus 2 cm (a constant for all sizes): AB = BG = 48 : 3 + 2 = 18 cm
The horizontal side of the rectangle equal to half the measurements of the semicircle of the breast:
AB = SH = 48 : 2 = 24 see
The horizontal lines AB and VG split in half. The dividing point to connect the auxiliary line and at the intersection with the horizontal line VG to put the point N. The auxiliary line to divide in half, and from the points of division to defer up 2 see
Tuck. From point A and right from point B to postpone to the left by 1.5 cm Each point is 1.5 to connect the auxiliary line with point 2. Each line is divided into three parts. From top points to defer up to 1 cm, and bottom - 1.5 cm.
Connecting the two sides of the point of 1.5; 1; 1,5; 2, will get a side tuck.
Line the top edge of the bra. The line AB is divided in half and the point of division to connect with the point
1,5. Get the left top edge of the bra. The BG line is also split in half; to put off from the dividing point down vertically 2 cm and point 2 are connected with a point of 1.5. Get the right side of the top edge of the bra.
Line the side seam. From point N to postpone to the left 1/8 of the measurements of the semicircle of the chest and put the point H1: НН1 = 48 : 8 = 6 cm.
Point N1 to connect with the point of division of the vertical construction line AB and divide it in half. From the points of division to defer to the right of 0.5 cm to Hold the line of the side seam by connecting the points D1, is 0.5; the point of division of the vertical AB.
Line the middle of the front. From point N to defer to the right 1/8 of the measurements of the semicircle of the chest and put the point H2: НН2 = 48 : 8 = 6 cm.
The point of H2 combine with point 2 auxiliary line to divide it in half. From the points of division to defer to the left 1 cm to Hold a line mid-front, connecting the points 2, 1 and H2 smooth line and continuing it down to 1 cm.
Point 1 connected to point D1 with a straight line that will line the bottom of the bra.

Construction drawing of the rear halves of the bra

Build the rectangle ABC (Fig. 2B, b). The vertical side of the rectangle is equal to the length of the side seam of the front halves of the bra: AB = BG = 11 cm (the length of the side seam, obtained by measuring).
The horizontal side of the rectangle is equal to the measure of the semicircle under the breast minus the period H11, which is equal to 12 inches: AB = VG = 40 - 12 - 28 see
Line the top edge. From point B to postpone to the left 1 cm from point A down 2 see Connect the dots 1 and 2 by a straight line and continue it to the left 2.5 cm.
Line the side seam. Connect the dots 1 and G get a line of side seam.
Line the middle of the back. Connect the dots 2,5 and b, get a line the middle of the back.
To plan a place terminations straps at a distance of 8 - 10 cm from the middle of the back.

Layout and cutting
 

Fold the fabric in half with the fold at the common thread. To lay out pattern pieces # 1 and # 2 as shown in Fig. 27. Should be cut without allowances for seams.
To make strap:
1) to handle the bottom of the bra strap width 4 cm, length equal to the measure of the semicircle under the breast - 40 cm (item No. 3).
2) for the strapless strap width 5 cm, length of straps 34 - 36 cm (item No. 4);
3) to handle front and side seams strap width 2 cm, length is equal to the mid-lines of the front and side seam - 10, and 11 cm (items No. 5 and No. 6);
4) under the buttons and loops strap width 4 cm, length of line mid-back - 9 cm (item No. 7);
5) for the manufacture of linen loops strap width 2.5 cm, length 18 cm (item No. 8).
For machining the top edge of the bra to find oblique bakey width 2.5 cm

Sewing

Sew Darts in the double seam. Sew the front and side sections on the front side. Seams to cover the equity strips. The edges of the planks to bend 0.5 cm and pristroit to the bra on the edges of the straps. To the right side of the rear halves of the bra to sew linen hinges (see Fig. 177).
Put the wrong side of the stitches on the wrong side of the bra, and on top of loops - share the bar face on the front side of the hinges. All together to stitch. Strap wrench on the front side, bend and edge to pristroit to the bra. To the left side of the rear halves of the bra to sew the same bar.
Equity from strips of fabric, intended for the straps, tuck the edges on the front side on the reverse with one side in 0.5 cm and on the other by 1 cm Then the side with less bending to put the other so that the ACC was in the middle of the straps and stitch around the edge of the ACC.
The top edge of the bra process piping. Sew straps to under bake. The width of the piping in finished form 1 see
To the lower edge of the bra to sew the waistband. On the right side of the belt to sew the loop. Waist put your face on the back of the bra and pristroit. Then the free end of the belt to bend 0.5 cm and Topstitch on bra on front side, covering the line of pristrozhki. To the left side of the rear halves of the bra to sew.

  PETTICOAT
 

In Fig. 28 shows a skirt made of six wedges with two ruffles at the waist, and button placket.
The petticoat is recommended to sew from a special silk fabric or skirt made of thick cotton (reps, taffeta). Skirts of cotton, madapolam and other soft cotton fabrics it is necessary to podrabatyvat.
Consumption of fabric for average size 3 m for a width of 80 cm
Draw a pattern wedge for the bottom of the skirt
The drawing patterns of the wedge for the lower skirt is removed, the following measurements (in cm):
Semicircle waist ..... 38
"hip ..... 52
Length side skirts ............ 65 (slightly shorter than the dress, under which she will dress up)
To hold an arbitrary horizontal line (Fig. 29). At right angles to this line draw a vertical line, which will be the middle of the wedge. At the intersection of these lines to put the point T.
The waist line. The measure of the semicircle of the waist divided by 6 (number of wedges):
38 : 6 = 6,3 cm
From the point T to the right and to the left on the horizontal of delay by 6.3 cm and put the points T1 and T2:
ТТ1 = ТТ2 = 6,3 cm
From point T to postpone down the vertical axis of 0.5 cm to Connect the points T1, 0,5; T2 smooth line; it will be the waistline.
The length of the wedge. From the point of 0.5 to defer down the vertical axis measure length of skirt 65 cm and put the H-point.
Line of the hips. From the point of 0.5 to defer down vertically 18 cm and place the point B. Through B draw a horizontal line of the hips of arbitrary length. To determine the width of the wedge at the hip line, divide the measure of the semicircle of the hips with the addition of the free fit into 6 parts (number of wedges): (52 + 2) : 6 = 9 see
From point B to the right and to the left horizontally to adjourn at 9 cm and put the points B1 and B:
BB1 = ББ2 = 9 cm.
The sides of the wedge. From point T1 through point B1 and the point T2 through point B2 draw a line, measure an equal length of the skirt, and put the point H1 and H2: Т1Н1 = Т2Н2 = 65cm.
The bottom line is. Connect the dots H1, N and H2 a smooth line, get the bottom line of the wedge.
Line terminations ruffles. From the bottom of the wedge to defer up ruffles a width of 20 cm Through the point 20 parallel to the bottom of the wedge to hold the line and cut off the shaded part of the pattern, which is sewn frill. To conduct a parallel dotted line at a distance of 10 cm from the line terminations of the bottom ruffles. This will be the line terminations the top ruffles.
In order to calculate the length of the bottom ruffles, I need to measure the bottom of the wedge. Assume that it is equal to 26 see All 6 wedges; hence, the length of the bottom of the wedges will be: 26 x 6 = 156 see With regards to the assemblies length ruffles will double: 156 x 2 = 312 see
The width of the bottom ruffles will be: 20 + 2 (joints) = 22 cm
Top length ruffles may be the same as the bottom, or 10 - 20 cm or less, depending on the fashion.
Width of the upper ruffle is 15 + 2 (for seams) = 17 cm
Belt width 4 cm and length equal to measure waist circumference plus 5 cm: 76 + 5 = 81 cm
Note. By the same principle build the drawing for skirts with four, eight, ten, twelve and more wedges. The greater the difference between the measurements of circumferences of waist and hips, the more bracing of the wedge. For figures with wide hips and small waist brace wedge can be reduced: it is necessary from two sides to reduce the width of the bottom of the wedge, plotting points to connect with line of the hips.

Layout and cutting
 

For cutting the bottom of the skirt to make three of the same wedge. At the hip line to put the control of the brand.
Fold the fabric in half with the fold at the common thread. The layout of the wedges on the fabric to perform in accordance with Fig. 30. On wedges to outline the line terminations the top ruffles.
For ruffles cut length of the fabric panels at 22 cm and at four 17 cm

Sewing

Sew the wedges of the double seam. In one of the seams to keep the unsewn zipper from waist 16 see to Make the notch at the weld and remove edges from the front inside out, tuck and stitch on the edge. All the parts sew the frills on edges. The bottom edge of the ruffles to sew a narrow seam podrobnym. You can sew lace. The top edge of the frills Sorority.
To sew the ruffles to the skirt under the bias tape. The bottom ruffle to put the wrong side on the wrong side of the skirt so that their edges coincide. Then on top of ruffles to put the bias tape to pristroit to the skirt. Bake remove the skirt, covering the seam. The region borders tuck and pristroit on the edge of the skirt. The top frill to put the wrong side on the front side of the skirt on the intended line terminations ruffles and sewn under the bias tape.
To the waist line to pristroit waist, putting his face on the wrong side of the skirt. Remove the belt on the front side of the skirt to bend and pristroit on the edge. Sweep loops and sew on buttons.