CONSTRUCTION DRAWING OF THE BASIC PATTERN DRESSES WITH CAP SHORT SLEEVES
 

The drawing pattern (Fig. 116) remove the following measurements (in cm):
The semicircle of the neck............... 18
"breast ........... 48
"waist ........... 38
"hip . . . . . 52 ..
The width of the back (reference measurement)..... 19
Length " to the waist ........ 38
"dresses . . . . . . . . . . . .108
Height bust ........................ 32,5
Front length to waist (test measure) 51
"shoulder............................ 13
"sleeve .......................... 7

the plan for the drawing back

To build a plan for drawing a pattern of the back is the same as for dresses with long sleeves and a gusset.

Construction drawing of the back

The width of the blade. From the point A (Fig. 116, a) to defer to the right horizontally the width of the sprout is about 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm (for all sizes), and supply point. AA = 18: 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm
Height. From point a to hold up a vertical line of length 2 cm and place the point A1. Then the line to proceed up another 0.5 cm.
0,5 points and connect a smooth line - line Rostock.
Shoulder line. To tilt the shoulder to defer from the point A2 down vertically 2 cm From point A1 to hold right through the point 2 the straight line is equal to the length of the shoulder measure, plus 1.5 cm on the landing shoulder seam, and put a point P: а1П = 13 at+ 1.5 = 14.5 cm.
From point P up to postpone 1 cm and put an end P1.
Line а1П divided into three equal parts. From the first point of division from left to defer up 0.5 cm and put an end A2.
To hold a smooth line is the shoulder line, as shown in the drawing, from a point 0.5 point A2, then the point P1.
The slope of the sleeve. Cut А3Г3 split in half and put the point O. From point O to defer to the right horizontally 2 cm and place the point O1.
To hold the line of inclination of the sleeve is a support line from the point P1 to the point O1.
Line the upper seam of the sleeve. Line П1О1 split in half and the point of division a perpendicular is erected equal to 1 cm.
Points P1, 1, O1, connect a smooth line. From the point P1 by a line drawn to defer the sleeve length measurements. Points 7 and 1 in this case coincides with the line P17, which will line the top seam of the sleeve.
Sleeve width. Point 7 to connect with the point G4 and the resulting line is divided into four equal parts. From the bottom division to hold the left to the line the perpendicular is 4 cm
Point 7 to connect with points 4 and G4 a smooth line, as shown in the drawing; this will be the width of the sleeves.
Line the side seam. From the point T2 to postpone 2 cm to the left - half side tuck, from the point B2 to the right of the line of hips - 1.5 cm For brace line of the side seam from the point H2 to defer to the right 6 cm.
Point b is 1.5, and connect a straight line to continue higher over the hips to 9 cm. Then the points 9 and 2 (waist line) to connect a smooth line. Points 2 and G4 to connect a straight line.
From point 2 (at the waist) to postpone by a line drawn the length of the skirt 70 cm (the difference between the standards of length and length of back to waist): 108 - 38 = 70 cm.
A line drawn through the point G4; 2; 9; 1,5; 70, is the line of the side seam.
Line the bottom of the dress. Point 70 to connect a smooth line with a horizontal line of the rectangle.

Build a plan drawing of the front
 

Draw the plan for construction drawings of the front (Fig. 116, b) is the same as for the back.

The creation of the drawing pattern of the front

Length of the front. From point A1 to continue up the vertical line. From the point G1 to defer up vertically to 1/2 of the semicircle of the breast plus 0.5 cm and put an end to: Г1В = 48: 2 x 0.5 = 24.5 cm.
From point T1 to postpone down 1 cm Distance from point 1 to In will be the length of the front to the waist; this length need to check on the removed control measure. In the case of deviations from the measurements the length of the front to fix it.
Width of the neck. From point b to hold the left horizontal line with a length of 12 - 15 cm and the line from point b postpone segment BB1 left equal to the width of Rostock: BB1 =AA =6.5 cm.
The depth of the neck. From point b to delay down vertically 1/3 of the semicircle of the neck plus 1.5 cm (for all sizes) and put an end B2: BB2 =18:3+1,5 =75 cm.
From the point In to draw a line with a length of 6.5 cm (mouth width), dividing a right angle in half, plus 0.5 cm and put an end Q3: ВВ3 = 6,5 + 0,5 = 7 cm.
Points B1, B3, B2, connect a smooth line - neck.
Length shoulder to tuck. From point B1 to defer to the left horizontally 4 cm.
From point 4 to defer down vertically 1 see Points 1 & B1 connect by a straight line which is the line segment shoulder to tuck.
Breast tuck. From the point G1 to defer to the left horizontal distance from the end chest Darts, equal to 9.5 cm (sum of the width of the neck and the shoulder length to tuck minus 1 cm - tilt tuck), and put an end G5: Г1Г5 =6,5+4 - 1 =9.5 cm.
Points 1 and G5 to connect a straight line (right side tuck).
The distance from point B1 to G5 at the auxiliary line must be removed measure the height of the bust minus the length of the germ of curve: 32,5 - 7,5 = 25 cm.
If the specified distance does not equal measure, it is necessary to shorten or lengthen a straight line from point G5.
Line А2Г2 divided into four equal parts.
Point 4 to connect the auxiliary line with the upper point of division on the line А2Г2.
From the point G4 to hold up the vertical construction line to the intersection with the upper auxiliary. The point of intersection of these lines denoted by the point P. From this point to defer to the right of the auxiliary lines 9 cm (length of shoulder-to-measure minus 4 cm - cut shoulder from the neck to tuck): 13 - 4 =9 cm.
From the point G5 to draw through the point 9 the straight line is equal to the right side of the tuck, and supply point P1. Line П1Г5 - left side tuck.
Length from shoulder Darts to the armhole. From a point P to defer down the construction line 2 cm; point 2 and connect P1 to a straight line. The line from point P1 to postpone 9 cm, i.e., the remaining length of the shoulder and put the point P2.
The slope line of the sleeve. From the midpoint of the dividing line to the left А2Г2 to postpone 1 cm and put the point O.
The line of inclination of the sleeve to hold from the point P2 to the point O
Top seam of sleeve. Line П2О split in half and the point of division a perpendicular is erected equal to 0.5 cm.
Point P2; 0,5; 0 to connect a smooth line and from point P2 by a line drawn to defer the sleeve length the same as on the back - 7 cm
Sleeve width. Point 7 to connect with the point G4 and conducted a line divided into four equal parts. From the bottom division to the right to hold to this line a perpendicular of length 4 cm.
Connect the dots 7, 4 and G4 a smooth line, as shown in the drawing.
Line the side seam. From the point T2 to delay right 2 cm (half side tuck); from the point B2 to the left - 1,5 cm, from the point H2 to the left - 6 cm (for brace line of the side seam at the bottom).
Point b and 1.5 connecting straight line, which is to continue higher over the hips to 9 cm. Then the points 9 and 2 (waist line) to connect a smooth line. Points 2 and G4 to connect a straight line.
From point 2 (at the waist) to defer the skirt length 70 cm, equal to the length of the skirt along the line of the side seam of the back. A line drawn through points 70; 1,5; 9; 2 and G4 will be the line of the side seam.
Clarification of the lines of the waist, hips and bottom of the dress. Points 1 and 2 (at the waist) to connect a smooth line.
From point B1 to postpone down 1 cm and the point 1 is connected with a point of 1.5 (the hip line) a smooth line.
From point D1 line the middle front continue downward by 1 cm and the point 1 connected to point 70 is a smooth line.
To construct the Darts at the waist line back and front, as shown in the drawing.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING OF THE BASIC PATTERN DRESSES WITH CAP SLEEVES SHORT SCORING

The drawing pattern dress with cap sleeves short scoring shot following measurements (in cm):
The semicircle of the neck ...,.................. 18
"breast . . . . . . . . . . 48
"waist ................... 38
"hip . . . . . . . . . ..52
Shoulder width (control measure)..19
Length " to the waist ............... 38
"dresses .............................. 108
Height bust ............................... 32,5
Front length to waist (test measure) 51
"shoulder................................... 13
"sleeve ................................ 12

the plan for the drawing back

For a drawing of the back to build a plan pattern semi-fitted dress (see Fig. 82).

Construction drawing of the back
 

The width of the blade. From the point A (Fig. 117, a) to defer to the right the width of the sprout is about 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm and put in point a is: AA = 18: 3+0,5 = 6,5 cm
Height. From point a to hold up a vertical line of length 2 cm and place the point A1. The line height of the sprout to continue up to 0.5 cm.
0,5 points and connect a smooth line - line Rostock.
Shoulder line. For slope of shoulder from the point A2 to postpone upside down 1.5 cm From point A1 to hold the right point of 1.5 a straight line equal to the length of the shoulder measure, plus 1.5 cm on the landing shoulder seam, and put a point P: а1П = 13 at+ 1.5 = 14.5 cm.
From point P up to postpone 1 cm and put an end P1.
Line а1П divided into three equal parts. From the left of the dividing point to defer up 0.5 cm and put an end A2.
Shoulder line to hold a smooth curve connecting the points 0,5; A2 and A1.
The slope line of the sleeve. Line А3Г3 split in half and put the point O. From point O to defer to the right horizontally 2 cm and place the point O1.
The line of inclination of the sleeve to hold from the point P1 to the point O1.
Line the upper seam of the sleeve. Line П1О1 split in half and the point of division a perpendicular is erected with a length of 1 cm.
Points P1, 1, O1 connect a smooth line; from the point P1 by a line drawn to defer the sleeve length 12 cm Smooth line from the point P1 to the point 12 would be the line of the upper seam of the sleeve.
The undercut and line the bottom seam of the sleeve. From the points G2 and G3 to continue down the vertical lines of the 1 see Points 1 and 1 to connect with a straight line. At the intersection with a vertical line to put the point G6.
From the point G6 on the vertical line to defer down 6 cm from point b to the right - 1 see Point 1 of G6, and to connect with a straight line.
From point 1 to defer to the right horizontally 5 cm; from a point 5 down vertically - 2 see Points 1 and 2 are connected by a straight line, which will line the bottom seam of the sleeve.
Sleeve width. Point 12 and 2 are connected by a straight line. Divide it in half and from the dividing point to the left to postpone 1 see
Point 12, 1, 2 connect a smooth concave line. The distance between the points 12 and 2 is the width of the sleeve.
Line the side seam. From the point T2 to delay the left 2 cm and from point B2 to the right of the line of hips - 1 cm from the point D2 to the right 5 cm (for brace line of the side seam at the bottom).
Point 5 and 1 connecting straight line, which is to continue higher over the hips to 9 cm. Then the points 9 and 2 (waist line) to connect the smooth line and the points 2 and G6 is a straight line.
From a point 2 (on the waist) for the line to defer the skirt length 70 cm, equal to the measure of the length of the dress minus the back length to waist: 108 - 38 = 70 cm.
A line drawn through points 70, 1, 9, 2, G6, is the line of the side seam.
The bottom line is. Point 70 to connect a smooth line with a horizontal line of the rectangle.
Tuck on the back. To build a tuck on the waist line, as shown in the drawing.

Build a plan drawing of the front

For a drawing of the front to build a pattern same as for back.

Construction drawing of the front
 

Length of the front. From the point A (Fig. 117, b) to continue up the vertical line. From the point G1 to defer up vertically to 1/2 of the semicircle of the breast plus 0.5 cm and put an end to: Г1В = 48: 2 x 0.5 = 24.5 cm.
From point T1 to postpone down 1 cm Distance from point V to point 1 (on the waist) will be the length you need to check on the control measure. In the case of deviations from the measurements it is necessary that the length to fix it.
Width of the neck. From point b to hold the left horizontal line of length 12 - 15 cm; this line to delay period, equal to the width of Rostock, and put the point B1: BB1 = AA = 6.5 cm.
The depth of the neck. From point b to delay down vertically 1/3 of the semicircle of the neck plus 1.5 cm and put an end B2: BB2 = 18: 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm
From the point In to draw a line with a length of 7 cm (mouth width plus 0.5 cm), dividing a right angle in half, and put an end B3.
Points B1, B3, B2 combine to a smooth concave line, which will be the neck.
Length shoulder to tuck.From point B1 to defer to the left horizontally 4 cm from point 4 down - 1 see Points 1 & B1 connect by a straight line.
Breast tuck. From the point G1 to postpone the left horizontal 9.5 cm (sum of the width of the neck and the shoulder length to tuck minus 1 cm) and put an end G5: Г1Г5 = 6,5 + 4 - 1 = 9.5 cm.
Points 1 and G5 to connect a straight line, it will be right side tuck.
The length of the auxiliary lines В1Г5 needs to be removed measure the height of the bust minus the length of the germ of curve: 32,5 - 7,5 = 25 cm.
In case of discrepancies with the merc should direct В1Г5 from point G5 to shorten or lengthen.
Point 4 to connect the auxiliary line with the upper point of division on the line А2Г2.
The line width of the openings Г2Г3 split in half and the dividing point to hold up a construction line to the intersection with the upper auxiliary. At the intersection of the lines to put the point P.
From a point P on the auxiliary line postpone to 9 cm (length of shoulder-to-measure minus 4 cm): 13 - 4=9 cm.
From points G5 through the point 9 a straight line is equal to the right side of the tuck, and supply point P1. Line Г5П1 - left side tuck.
Length from shoulder Darts to the armhole. From a point P on the auxiliary line postpone down 2 cm; points 2 and P1 to connect a straight line.
From the point P1 by a line drawn to postpone 9cm and supply point P2.
The slope line of the sleeve. From the middle of the dividing point on the line А2Г2 to defer to the left horizontally 1 cm and place the point O. the Line of inclination of the sleeve equal to the length of the sleeve, i.e. 12 cm, to hold from the point P2 through point O.
Line the upper seam of the sleeve. Conducted a line length of 12 cm split in half and the points of division perpendicular to the line of delay up to 0.5 cm.
Point P2; 0,5; 12 to connect a smooth line, which will line the top seam of the sleeve.
Undercut sleeve. The depth of the openings extending 1 cm
Points 1 and 1 connecting straight line and the point of intersection with a vertical line to denote the G6.
From the point G6 to defer to the right 6 see Line G6 b is an undercut of the sleeve front. From point b to postpone to the left of the line of podraza 5 cm.
The top edge of podraza from point b to the point 5 will be the length of sleeve under the arm, or line the bottom seam of the sleeve.
Sleeve width. Points 12 and 5 to connect a straight line. Divide it in half. From the dividing point to the right to drop the perpendicular, is equal to 1 cm.
The bottom of the sleeve to pass through the point 12, of 1.5.
Line the side seam. For building line of the side seam to lay from the point T2 to the right 2 cm, from the point B2 to the left - 2 cm, from the point H2 to the left - 6 cm (for brace line of the side seam at the bottom).
Point b and 2 are connected by a straight line, which is to continue higher over the hips to 9 cm. Then the points 9 and 2 (waist line) to connect a smooth line. Points 2 and G6 to connect with a straight line. From a point 2 (on the waist) for the line to defer the skirt length 70 cm
A line drawn through points 70, 2, 9, 2, G6, is the line of the side seam.
Clarification of the waist, hips and bottom of the dress. Point 1 on the line of mid front connect point 2 to the waist line smooth line.
From point B1 to postpone down 1 cm and the point 1 connected to point 2 on the line of the hips.
From point D1 line the middle of the front to continue on to the 1 cm point 1 connected to point 70 is a smooth line.
On the waist line to build a tuck as shown in the drawing.