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Home » Articles » Women's and children's dress

Construction drawing the main pattern jacket with cap sleeves and sidled, passing into the gusset

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING THE MAIN PATTERN JACKET WITH CAP SLEEVES AND SIDLED, PASSING INTO THE GUSSET 

In the drawing the main pattern jacket with cap sleeves and sidled, passing into the gusset, cut the following measurements in inches: 
The semicircle of the neck............ 18 
breast . . . . . 48 
waist ..........38 
thighs . . . . ..52 
shoulder Width (control measure) .19 
the Length of back to waist . . . . . .38 
" jacket ...................... 56 
Height bust ...................... 32,5
Front length to waist (test measure) 51 
" shoulder . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 
" sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . .58 
" to the elbow . . . . . 33 
the Semicircle of the wrist ........9

the plan 

to Draw a rectangle АА1НН1 (Fig. 148, a). The vertical lines of the rectangle equal to the length of the jacket: an = А1Н1 = 56 see 
the Horizontal line of the semicircle is equal to the chest plus 5 cm for loose fit: AA1 = НН1 = 48 + 5 = 53 cm.
The depth of the armhole. From point A to defer down the line mid the back of the semicircle of 1/3 of the chest plus 4 cm (for all sizes) and to put the point G: AG = 48: 3 + 4 = 20 cm
Line the circumference of the chest. From point G to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point G1. 
The waist line. From point A to postpone upside down measure the length of the back to the waist and put the end T: at = 38 cm 
From point T draw a horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point T1.
The width of the back. From point G to defer to the right of the circle's circumference the chest width of the back is about 1/3 of the semicircle of the breast plus 3 cm (for all sizes), and put an end G2: ГГ2 = 48: 3 + 3 = 19 cm 
the Width of the back test on the removed control measure. 
From point G2 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal and to put an end A2. 
The width of the openings. From a point G2 to defer to the right horizontally the width of the armholes, equal to 1/4 of the semicircle of chest plus 1 cm, and put point G3: Г2Г3 = 48: 4 + 1 = 13 see
From point G3 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal and to put an end A3. 
Based on the drawing plan to build a drawing pattern backless with cap sleeves. 

Construction drawing of the back 

The width of the blade. From point A to defer to the right horizontally the width of the sprout is about 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm and put point a: AA = 18: 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
Height. From point and to hold up a vertical line of length 2 cm and put point A1. Then the line to continue up a further 0.5 see Point 0.5 and A to connect a smooth line - the line of Rostock.
Shoulder line. For slope of shoulder from the point A2 to postpone upside down 1.5 cm (for all sizes). From point A1 to hold the right point of 1.5 direct a line length of 14.5 cm (length of shoulder measure, plus 1.5 cm) and put point P: а1П = 13 + 1,5 = 14,5 cm 
Line а1П divided into three equal parts; from the left of the dividing point to defer up 0.5 cm and put an end A2. 
From a point P to defer up 1 cm I. to put the point P1. 
To hold a smooth line through the points 0,5; A2; P1 is the shoulder line.
The slope of the sleeve. Line А3Г3 split in half and put an end O. From point O to defer to the right 2 cm and place the point O1. 
From point P1 through the point O1 to hold the auxiliary line of inclination of the sleeve, equal to the length of the sleeve-to-measure plus 2 cm to the landing seam, and put point R: П1Р = 58 + 2 = 60 cm. 
Line the upper seam of the sleeve. The line of inclination of the sleeve to postpone the sleeve length to the elbow plus 1 cm to fit the seam and put a dot L: П1Л = 33 + 1 = 34, see
From point L perpendicular to the line of inclination of the sleeves to hold the line of the elbow of arbitrary length. Through the point P to hold the right and left at right an angle of a line of arbitrary length. From point O1 
to defer to the right 1 cm; from the point R to the right of the line 2 see 
the Line of the top seam the sleeve to slide smoothly from point P1 to point 1, then point 1, and L 2 are connected by straight lines. 
The bottom of the sleeves. From point 2 to postpone down under the support line the width of the sleeve equal to the semicircle of wrist plus 1 cm on a free fit, and to put the point P2: 9 + 1 = 10 cm.
Line 2Р2 split in half and the points of division to defer to the right 1 cm to Hold a smooth line of the bottom of the sleeve through the points 2, 1, P2. 
Line the bottom seam of the sleeve. The width of the armhole - cut Г2Г3 - split in half and the dividing point to hold down the vertical line of arbitrary length. 
From a point G2 to defer to the right horizontally 2 see From point 2 to carry out a sloping line that is 8 cm, to the intersection with vertical drawn from the dividing point on the line Г2Г3. 
From point 8 draw a line parallel to the line of inclination of the sleeve over the line the elbow and at the intersection with the line of the elbow to put the point L1.
From point L1 to defer to the right and to the left in a straight line 1.5 cm - the depth of the tuck, and up through the elbow - 5 see Point 1.5 m connected to point 5 direct lines. Right point of 1.5 to connect with the point P2. 
Thus, line the bottom seam of the sleeve will pass through the points 2; 8; 1,5; 1,5; P2. 
Line the side seam. For building line of the side seam back and front is required to calculate the depth of the tucks at the waist and allowances at the hips. 
To calculate the depth of the Darts at the waist line it is necessary to find the difference between the width of the plan and the semicircle waist with the addition of free customized fit: 53 - (38 + 3)=12 see
The difference found divided by the number of tucks at the waist, i.e., at 4: 12: 4 = 3 cm 
Thus, the depth of each tuck will be equal to 1/4 of the difference, or 3 cm. 
To calculate the allowance on the hip line it is necessary to find the difference between the merc semicircle hips with the addition of free customized fit and wide plan jacket: (52 + 4) - 53 = 3 see 
the difference divided by 4: 3:4=075 see 
Therefore line the sides of the back and front and both side gussets to expand on the hip line at 0.75 cm
To build the line of the side seam, it is necessary from the point 2 on the line width the openings G2 - G3 to hold down the vertical line and the intersection with the waist to put the point T2, and the bottom line is - a point of H2. 
From the point T2 to delay the left 1.5 cm (half the depth of the tuck) and from point D2 to the right of 0.75 cm (extension at the hip line). 
The line of the side seam to hold from point 2 to point 1,5 straight line followed by a period of 1.5 to connect with point 0.75 mm smooth line, as shown in Fig. 148. 
Tuck on the waist line. From point T to postpone the waist to the right 8 cm (width Rostock plus 1.5 cm): 6,5+1,5=8 cm.
From point 8 to defer to the right 3 cm - the depth of the tuck. The distance divide in half and through the point of division draw a vertical average tuck the line up to the intersection with the line of the circumference of the chest and down with a length of 12 cm From the line of circumference of the chest in the midline tuck postpone 6 see 
Point 12 b and connect the points 8 and 3, we get tuck on the waist line of the back. 

Draw the front 

Draw the plan for construction of the front of the jacket is the same as for the back.
The line length of the front. From point A1(Fig. 148, b) to continue up vertical line. From the point G1 to defer up vertically 1/2 the semicircle of the breast plus 0.5 cm (for all sizes) and put an end In: Г1В = 48: 2 x 0.5 = 24.5 cm. 
From the point T1 to postpone down 1 seeDistance from point V to point 1 will be the length you need to check on the removed control measure. In the case of deviations from measurements have the length correct, as described on page 111.
Width neck. From point b to hold the left horizontal line with a length of 12 - 15 cm and to postpone the width of the neck equal to the width of the sprout; to put point B1: BB1=AA=65 cm 
Depth of the neck. From point b to delay down vertically 1/3 of the semicircle of the neck plus 1.5 cm and put an end B2: BB2 = 18: 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm 
From the point In to draw a line that divides a right angle in half, length 7 cm (mouth width plus 0.5) and put a point B3. 
Points B1, B3, B2, connect a smooth line.
Length shoulder to tuck. From point B1 to defer to the left horizontally 5 cm; from point 5 down 1 cm (for all sizes). Points 1 and B1 connect a straight line. 
Breast tuck. From the point G1 to postpone the left in horizontal 10.5 cm (mouth width plus 5 cm minus 1 cm) and to put an end G5: Г1Г5 = 6,5 + 5 - 1 = 10.5 cm. 
Points 1 and G5 to connect with a straight line (right side tuck). The distance from the point B1 to a point G5 on the auxiliary line must be removed Merke the height of the bust minus the length of the sprout: 32,5 - 7,5 = 25 cm.
If there is a discrepancy with the yardstick, then it is necessary to shorten or lengthen a straight line from point G5. 
Line А2Г2 divided into four equal parts. 
Point 5 to connect an auxiliary line from the top point of division on the line А2Г2. 
The width of the openings Г2Г3 split in half and the dividing point to hold up a vertical line to the intersection with the upper auxiliary line. On the intersection of these lines to put the point P. From point P to defer the right of auxiliary line (8 cm remaining length of the front shoulder): 13 - 5=8 cm.
From points G5 through the point 8 draw a straight line equal to the right side of the tuck, and supply point P1. 
Line Г5П1 - left side tuck. 
Length from shoulder Darts to the armhole. From a point P to postpone down under the support line 2, see Point 2 
and connect P1 to a straight line. From the point P1 by a line drawn to defer 8 cm and place the point P2. 
The slope line of the sleeve. From the midpoint of the dividing line to the left А2Г2 to postpone 1 cm and put the point O. 
to Hold from the point P2 through a point On the line of inclination of the sleeve equal to the length of the sleeve by the standards, and put a point P: П2Р = 58 cm
From a point P2 at the line of inclination of the sleeve to delay length before the elbow and put the end of L. П2Л = 33 cm 
Line the bottom seam of the sleeve. The width of the armhole split in half from the point division to spend down a vertical line of arbitrary length. 
From point G3 to postpone 2 cm to the left From point 2 to carry out a slanted line, equal to 8 cm, to the intersection with the vertical line drawn from mid-armhole. 
From point 8 draw a line parallel to the line the inclination of the sleeve equal to the length of the bottom seam of the sleeve on the back, without the elbow tuck. To put the point P1.
From point 8 at the line to delay the length to the elbow on the back (see Fig. 148, a), to put the point L1 (see Fig. 148, b), which is connected to point A. From point L1 at the elbow delay up to 1 cm 
Line the bottom seam of the sleeve to pass through the point 8, 1, P1. 
The bottom of the sleeves. Points P and P1 and connect from point P1 to defer to the left by a line drawn 10 cm (semicircle of wrist plus 1 inch in free fit): 9 + 1 = 10 cm 
the Width of the bottom of the sleeves (10 cm) divide in half and from the points of division to defer up 1 see the Bottom of the sleeves to hold a smooth line through the points 10, 1 and P1.
Line the upper seam of the sleeve. From point O to postpone it to the left 0.5 cm. Distance from point O to point L is split in half and the dividing point to postpone 1 cm to the left 
Line of the top seam the sleeve to slide smoothly through the points P2; 05; 1; L; 10. 
Line the side seam. From point 2 on the line width of the openings Г2Г3 draw a vertical line to the bottom of the jacket. At the intersection with a line the waist to put the point T2, and the bottom line is - H2. From the point T2 to postpone right 1,5 cm, and from point D2 to the left of 0.75, see 
the line of the side seam to hold from point 2 to point 1,5 a straight line from point to point 1,5 0,75 - smooth line.
Clarification of the lines of the waist and bottom. Point 1 (on the line of mid front) to connect with point 1.5 m (waist line) a smooth line. 
From the point H1 to postpone down 1 cm and the point 1 is connected with the point of a 0.75 a smooth line. 
Tuck on the waist line of the front. From point 1 (at the waist) to postpone 9 cm (distance Г1Г5 minus 1.5 cm): 10.5 - 1.5 = 9 cm.
Points 9 and G5 to connect a straight line. From the point G5 to defer down b cm, from point 9 to the left - 3 cm (depth of the tuck). Points 6 and 3 to connect direct line. The depth of the tuck to split in half and the dividing point to spend down the vertical middle line tuck with a length of 12, see Point 12 to connect with points 3 and 9 are straight lines. 

Construction drawing of gusset - barrel

Draw a vertical line of arbitrary length (Fig. 148,). Perpendicular to it to hold the waist line. Up vertically from the line waist to postpone the length of the sides (measured on the drawing of the front) and putpoint G4. Down from the waist line to delay the length of the jacket and put an end H3. Draw a horizontal line to the right and to the left through the point H3 arbitrary length, through the point G4 - with a length of 4.5 cm (half the width armhole minus 2 cm). 
From points 4,5 to draw vertical lines. Point of intersection with the waist to denote T3 and T4, the bottom line is - N4 and N5.
To defer from the points to the right of T3 and T4 to the left by 1.5 cm From the points N4 and N5 to the left to the right at 0.75 cm 
Right and left side seams of the gussets to pass through the points 4,5; 1,5; 0,75, as shown in Fig. 148, V. 
From points 4,5 to draw two sloping lines, each of length 8 cm to the intersection with the middle vertical line. Lines 4,5 and 8 correspond the inclined lines 2 - 8 in the drawing, back and front.



Category: Women's and children's dress | Added by: 20.10.2017
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