DOUBLE SEAM, FLARED SKIRT

In Fig. 60 depicts double seam, flared skirt with soft inverted front pleats and back with large patch pockets, fastened with buttons. 
 
The skirts this style of fine wool or wool blend fabrics can be recommended for sizes 44 to 50. 
 
Consumption of fabric for average size of 1.6 m and a width of 130 cm

lines cut and prepare patterns

To prepare the bulk vireuse skirts. The pattern cut through the sides (Fig. 61, a and b). Line the bottom of the skirt from the sideline to extend for 3 cm to the hip line, having glued the bottom strip of paper. From the ends of the recesses to hold the vertical line to the bottom of the skirt. The pattern to be cut by causedlines. Tuck close, chips with pins. Construction drawing patterns the pocket shown in Fig. 61, V. 
 
layout and cutting

Fold the fabric in half with the fold at the common thread (Fig. 62). From bend defer to 9 or 10 cm at the counter soft folds, to lay out the pattern the front and rear panels of the skirt, as shown, and cut out skirt, making a raise on the seams. 
 
From the remnants of fabric can be tailor short Figaro (Fig. 63 ) for sizes 44 - 46. Drawing patterns of Figaro is given in Fig. 64,

Fitting and tailoring 

to Lay a thread along the lines of the middle of the rear and front panels of the skirt, at the edge of the folds. To lay a snare on the side, bottom, and line terminations of the corsage. Baste pleats at a distance of 4 - 5 cm from the line terminations corsage and put them on two sides. Sweep the side sections, leavingnesmetnye at the left side seam 16 - 18 cm for the clasp. To prepare the bodice and skirt to try on. 
 
Sew and resuturing side seams. For processing of the clasp to find two strips from the remaining fabric. Length the straps for the skirt is 18 cm, i.e. the length of zipper 16 cm plus 2 cm treatment. The width of strips 6 - 7 cm.
 
For pocketing prepare a strip of cotton or another thin fabric and lined with fabric matching the skirt. The padding and lining to tailor the pattern of the pocket without the allowances for seams. To put the gasket on the wrong side of the pocket. The edge of the pocket to bend the strip and sweep. To vitacare loop and defer the pocket 1.5 cm from the edge. The lining tuck the edges and sew a hidden seam with the inside. Priotity pocket, to penetrate and treat from the inside loop. Ready to sew the pocket to the skirt, and a hidden seam. Sew on buttons. Sew the skirt to the bodice. Hem the bottom of the skirt.

SKIRT WITH INVERTED PLEATS AND SNAP CLOSURE

In Fig. 65 shows a double seam skirt with belt, inverted pleats (front and back) and button closures. 
 
The fabric is a thin wool or thick silk. The style recommended for sizes 44 - 48. Consumption of fabric for average size of 1.6 m and a width 130 see 

the lines cut and prepare the pattern 

Prepare the basic skirt pattern without Darts at the waist line, as tuck will move. Cut the pattern through the sides and to expand bottom line by 3 cm on each side (Fig. 66).
 
On the pattern of the rear cloth skirts (Fig. 66, a) to postpone from mid to the waist to tuck a distance equal to 7 cm, then the depth of the Darts 4 see to Divide the depth in half and tuck from the dividing point to spend auxiliary vertical line to the hip line. Connect the dots 7 and 4 with the end of the lines. From the tuck end to continue to the bottom patterns vertical cut line.
 
On the pattern front the cloth of the skirt (Fig. 66, b) to be postponed from the middle of the front panel towaist line to the first tuck a distance equal to 8 cm, then the depth tuck 2 see to Divide the depth of the Darts in half. From the points of division to hold an auxiliary vertical line to the hip line. To connect points 8 and 2 with the end of the lines. From the tuck end to hold up bottom patterns vertical cut line.
 
To construct a second front tuck to split the distance for the waist-line of the first tuck to sides in half. From the points of division draw a vertical auxiliary the line to the hip line. This line from waist to defer to the right and to the left on 1 see Both points connect with the end of the construction line. From tuck end hold until the bottom patterns vertical cut line. To the middle of the front of the pattern is to add 2 cm to the clasp and outline of the loop as shown in Fig. 66 b.
 
The pattern of the rear cloth skirts cut along the lines and cut out the dart. The front half patterns first tuck cut, and the second to close, chips with pins. Cut the pattern along the planned lines. 
 
For processing fasteners to prepare pattern strips. Strap length equal to the length of skirt, width - 8 cm 
 
Length of the pattern zone is calculated as: waist circumference 76 cm plus 4 cm for the transition hook, plus 2 cm for the Cape (only 82 cm). The width of the belt 7 cm
 
Thus, the skirt pattern consists of the following parts: No. 1 and No. 2 (rear panel skirt), # 3 and # 4 (the front panel of the skirt), straps for handling fasteners and belt.

Layout and cutting

Fold the fabric in half with the fold at the common thread (Fig. 67). 
 
Item No. 1 middle rear cloth skirts to put on the fold of the fabric. Then put a ruler on the hips of the pattern and hold chalk or soap continued the hip line on the fabric. This is necessary in order to to cut a separate part of the pattern. 
 
Item No. 2 patterns put on the fabric at a distance of 20 cm from the part № 1. Specified distance to halve and to hold chalk or soap line means inverted pleats. To make the brace folds down to the hip line 2 cm forthrough the depth of the folds at the bottom.
 
Item No. 3 sewing patterns skirts to put on fabric at a distance of 1 cm from the fold, and then put the item No. 4 as well as item No. 2, the rear cloth skirts. The increase in the sutures shown in the layout. 
 
Bar for machining the fasteners and belt cut on grain lines. 

Fitting and tailoring 

to Lay and sweep the folds, to sweep away the side sections. Outline loop. To try .
 
Tailoring of the skirt start with the piping loops, and then pritachivajut straps for processing of the clasp. The free end of the strap to bend 0.5 cm inside out and to stitch on the edge. Handle loop strap. To press pleats. Sew and resuturing side seams. To prepare the corsage. Sew the bodice and belt is set out on page 280 (the fifth method). 
 
The finished corsage attach to the underside of the skirt at the line terminations of the corsage, exactly with the edge transition clasps the left of the cloth skirts. The right panels of the bodice are not walk to the edge of the transition in the buckle 4 cm 
 
Hemming the bottom of the skirt. 

PLEATED SKIRT

In Fig. 68 depicts a flat skirt in the fold of woolen fabric. Fabric consumption of 2.4 m and a width of 120 cm 
 
For this skirt style drawing of the pattern to do. 
 
Pleats outline directly on the tissue, on the reverse side (Fig. 69). 
 
For cutting skirts removed following measurements (in cm): 

Semicircle waist ........... 38 
thighs . . . . . . 52 
Length side skirts .................. 72
 
Cut three cloth of the same length, equal-measure length skirt side plus 1 cm treatment zone, plus 5 - 7 cm hem on the bottom of the skirt: 72 + 1 + 7 = 80 cm or 240: 3 = 80 cm.
 
To connect all the fabric in one width (with two seams). Seams to resaturate. The bottom of the skirt to sew a hidden seam and ironed. 
 
To determine the width of the skirts at the rate of: a semicircle hips (52 + 2)2 = 108 cm; folds 108 x 3 + 10 cm (for movement joints) = 334 cm 
 
With marking of the folds necessary to ensure that the seams on the skirt located on the inner edge of the folds. An allowance of 10 cm in the calculation the width of the skirt allows you to move the seam line. 
 
Measure the width of the fabric 334 cm and cut the rest.
 
From the top edge of the fabric to measure 1 cm and draw a line with chalk or soap waist line through the entire piece of fabric. At a distance of 18 cm from the line waist to hold through the entire fabric line 6едер. Then determine the number of wrinkles and their depth. 
 
The number of folds is determined in depending on what the selected width of the folds. In this case, this width is 4 cm 
 
Therefore, the calculation would be: 

108 (circumference of hips with allowance): 4 = 27 folds; 
334 - 10 (stitches) = 324 cm;
324 - 108 = 216 cm; 
216 : 27 = 8 cm - depth of each fold at the hips. 
 
From right to left to measure for a seam 2 cm.
 
To sew the last seam of the skirt on the inner edge of the folds, it is necessary the layout of the folds to start and finish with half the depth of the folds, i.e. measure 4 cm and draw a line from the common thread from the waist to the bottom of the skirt. 
 
From this line measure the width of the folds 4 cm and draw a line. Then measure the depth of the folds 8 cm, and again to draw a line, etc.
 
To rasmalai the entire fabric, measuring in turn the width and the depth of the folds, as shown in Fig. 69. At the bottom of the skirt to make braces folds for 1 cm measuring from the lines of the folds in the direction of the depth of creases by 1 cm. Put a ruler on the bracing point and point of intersection of the hip line with line the folds and draw a straight line to the waist line. To do so braces all folds. With braces the depth of the folds at the waist increase. To cover the folds on the reverse side on the chalk lines.
 
Priotity from the inside using a wet cloth or using a cloth soaked in the solution of vinegar. To measure the waist, and if the skirt will be wide, to deepen the folds at the waist. Sew the third seam, leaving forfasteners 16 see to Stitch from the wrong side of the fold at the clasp. 
 
From the remainder of the fabric cut for the waist of the equity strip of a width of 8 cm, and length 3 to 4 cm more waist circumference. Prepare corsage in length belt width 2 cm to Sew a belt with a corsage, as set out on page 280 (the third way).
 
To press pleats on the front side, placing paper in every crease in order not to leave fingerprints from fold pleats on the front of the skirt.