DRESS-a SUIT STRICT FORM 

In Fig. 139 depicts style of dress-suit of wool fabric. Jacket single-breasted closure, with three buttons. The collar and line style at the bottom of the jacket topstitched. Skirt straight, narrow pleat in the back. Sleeve vtachnoy, long. Fabric consumption for the average size of 2.3 m and a width of 130 cm is Recommended for all sizes. 

Lines cut and prepare patterns 

Prepare the basic pattern of the jacket without the sides and collar and the pattern double seam of the sleeve. Then prepare the basic skirt pattern (see Fig. 53).
Back. To postpone the length of the jacket is 15 cm - from waist line down (Fig. 140, a) and from point 15 to draw a line to the side parallel to the line waist. 
Before. To postpone the length of the jacket is 15 cm from the waist line down (Fig. 140, b) and from point 15 to draw a line parallel to the line waist. From the line of shoulder at neckline to postpone 2 cm From point 2 to point B2 draw a straight line, continuing it for 8 see
In the middle of the front outline three loops on the waist line, above and below this line for 10 cm. To defer from the middle of the front right hem and upper loop on 3 see Point 3 connect a straight line, and continue with point 8 smooth line. 
From the shoulder through the armhole to delay down 10 cm to draw a line cut from the point 10 to the right side of the first tuck, departing 3 cm from the end breast tuck. To translate tuck the end of a chest tuck to connect with the line style. 
The construction of the collar. To build a rectangle АА1ББ1 (Fig. 140,). The vertical sides are equal
10 cm, i.e. the width of the collar AB =А1Б1 =10 cm 
Horizontal side equal to 26 cm (semicircle of the neck measure plus the width of side 8 cm): AA1 = BB1 =18+8= 26 cm 
From the point A1 to defer down 4 cm from point 4 with a radius equal to the distance between points 2 and 8 
on the jacket (see Fig. 140, b), make a notch on the straight line AA1 (Fig. 140, in) and put a point. Points a and 4 connect with a straight line. From point A continue the vertical line up to 1 cm point 1 to connect with point and a smooth line.
From point B1 to delay the left by 5 cm connect the dots 5 and 4 with a straight line. From point B postpone up to 2 cm. Points 2 and 5 to connect a smooth line.
The training patterns. The pattern of the front cut line of the cut. Tuck on the waist line cut. Breast tuck to close and translate it on the line translation tuck. Cut out (or copy on tracing paper) pattern sleeves andcollar. Cut the extra part of the pattern.

Layout and cutting

Measure and cut the fabric for the skirt-to-measure length plus 8 cm at the seams (Fig. 141, a). The middle of the front cloth skirts to put on bend tissue. The remaining edge of the fabric is a deep unilateralfolds.

Cloth jacket doubled with either common thread. The middle of the back to put the bend (Fig. 141, b). The middle front put common thread. The rest of the details to put as shown on the layout, and cut out with seam. 
Fitting and tailoring
Skirt. To sweep away all the Darts, sew and resuturing. Sweep and stitch from the inside fold along the line, not to bring the seam to the top on a distance of 16 cm for the clasp, and the bottom - 20 cm for the step. 
The bottom of the skirt hem with braid or a hidden seam.
Jacket. On the line style to cover up a small tuck or propositi and sucurity. To sweep away the jacket along the line of cut, baste the Darts, shoulder and the side sections. The seam lines are cut to the waist line to press to the front, below the waist line - notching and resuturing on two sides. To put strap on the wrong side, baste and defer them from the front 1.5 cm right and left of the seam. Get a stitched Welt pocket.
To collar and Board had the right landing on the figure and beautiful appearance, they laid the cotton fabric. The gasket tack on the wrong side the jacket and fasten in several places with small stitches that are not the front side. (Thread should be in the tone of the underlying tissue.) 
A lining for the collar to cut out without seam, put inside under collar and attach with small stitches. Sewcollar, to turn, to sweep and priotity. Shoulder seams to resaturate on two sides.
Double seam in the sleeve to pull the top half on the front seam (see Fig. 168). Sew front seam of sleeves and resuturing on the two sides. The upper half of the sleeve with elbow hand to pripasayte, cotuit. Sew and resuturing. 
To votate and vacate the collar and sleeves. The front of podborta to put on the front side of the jacket, baste, slightly propositiva podbor, and pritchet, at the same time watachiwa the angle of the bottom of the jacket.
On the line side to the seam to attach the edge to the Board is not stretched. Podbot remove inside out, defer on the edge and attach. To pritchet and process the inside collar at back hidden seam. Collar to defer from the front side at the distance of 1.5 cm from the seam. 

DRESS-SUIT OF STRIPED FABRIC

In Fig. 142 depicts a dress of striped fabric surrounding the waist line. The jacket is single breasted with three buttons. Collar cap. The jacket line style below waist end valves in the form of pockets. The strips on the fabric side of the jacket located in oblique direction. The sleeves are set-in 3/4 length. The skirt is narrow, straight, rear two folds. 
Consumption of fabric for average size 3 m 60 cm with a width of 90 cm 
type of suit is recommended for all sizes.

Lines cut and prepare patterns

To draft a basic pattern: the jacket without the sides and collar, narrow sleeves (see Fig. 84) and skirts. 
The back of the jacket. To postpone down from the waist line the length of the jacket is 15 cm (Fig. 143, a), and hold 
the line parallel to the waist line. On waist line from center back to postpone right 1 see Point 1 connect the straight lines with the sprout and the bottom line jacket. 
Front of jacket. From waist line to delay 15 cm (Fig. 143, b), and draw a line parallel to the waist line.
To build a valve to be postponed from the waist down on the side of 6 cm. B connect pryamoi this line with point 3 (at the waist). From the points b and 3 at right angles to the line hold down straight lines on 7 see Both point 7 to connect with a straight line. The bottom line of valve to share in half. From the points of division to defer up to 2 cm and from point 2 to schedule up a loop of length 2.5 cm. 
To find the direction of the grain lines for layout, need the end chest Darts on the left side to delay up 5 see Point 5 connect the line side to the waist line.
The lowest point of the neckline neck to hold the right straight line of arbitrary length. On this line to defer 2.5 cm hem to postpone to the right, too, Both 2.5 cm. point 2.5 connecting a straight line.
To build the collar from point G to defer down vertically 2 see Point 2 and the upper point the neck connect this line to continue for the length of the sprout, this case, 8 see point 8 at a right angle to hold the right a line is 7 cm.
From the point of 2.5 to defer horizontally 6 cm. Point b and 7 connect a straight line, continuing it beyond point 7 by 1 cm Points 1 and 8 to connect. From the point of 2.5 to defer down 4 cm from point 4 right 1 refer Point b, 1 and 2 are connected by straight lines. 
To conduct the dotted line of bend of the collar. This shoulder line continue to the right on 3, see Point 3 and 2 are connected with a dotted line.
Outline the loop on the jacket: the first - on the waist line, the second below the line the chest by 2 cm, a third is in the middle between the two loops. 
Podbot outline, as shown in Fig. 143 b.

Sleeve. On the middle line of the sleeve (Fig. 143,) to postpone down 46 cm point 4B to hold a smooth line parallel to the line of the bottom of the sleeves. 
Skirt. From the rear end of the tuck (Fig. 143, g) to hold to the bottom of the skirt is a line parallel to the middle of the back. 
The training patterns. Cut the pattern of the jacket for applying lines style and the skirt pattern on the line side and line style. Tuck lapel and above the waist line cut. Tuck below the waist line to close. Cutunnecessary parts of the pattern. Put the part numbers (No. 1 - 7), as shown in Fig. 143. 

Layout and cutting

Fabric doubled common thread. All the details of the pattern to put on fabric, as shown in Fig. 144, bearing and seam, and to carve out the time. 

Fitting and tailoring 

to Zastrochit pleats on the skirt, not bringing the line to the bottom 15 - 20 cm. Sew Darts and side sections. 
All the costume details to iron in the process of tailoring. 
The zip of the skirt at the left side seam. Sew the bodice to the skirt by any of these methods. Hem the bottom of the skirt. 
On jacket and valve to oblachat loop. Podkraj valve to pristroit with the front side. Remove the inside out. Waist line to pripasayte 1 cm
Sew the jacket along the line of cut, sew the seam on the back, shoulder and side sections; resuturing on two sides. 
Sew collar and pristroit to the neck. To pritchet podbot. To pristroit podbot together with the collar of the jacket. To handle the bottom sleeveless and vacate them. 

DRESS-COSTUME OF WHITE CLOTH

In Fig. 145 depicts the style fancy dress costume. Jacket single breasted. Vertical line design on the jacket and skirt match. The collar piece. In the line style sewn belt. 3/4 sleeve vtachnoy. The skirt is straight, chetyrehchastnaya with slits at the bottom. Fabric - light wool or thick cotton. Consumption of fabric for average size of 2.6 m and a width of 140 cm is Recommended to size 50.

Lines cut and prepare patterns

Prepare the basic pattern of the jacket without the sides and collar, the pattern narrow sleeve (see Fig. 84) and the skirt pattern (see Fig. 53). On prepared a pattern drawing style. 
The back of the jacket. To defer from the shoulder down through the openings 11 cm (Fig. 146, a), from the middle of the back right waist 9 see Points 11 and 9 to connect a smooth line. To defer from the waist line down the length of the jacket is equal to 15 cm At the hem to postpone a 9.5 cm points and 9.5, and 9 connecting with a straight line. Waist outline the tuck depth 1 cm
Front of jacket. Put on the waist line down the length of the jacket is 15 cm (Fig. 146, b), from the shoulder on the armhole down 11 cm around the waist from center front to postpone 15 see Points 15 and11 to connect a smooth line. From point 15 to draw a vertical line to the bottom of the jacket. To build a tuck, as shown, to a depth of 1 see From the middle of the front to be postponed to the left at the bottom of the jacket 5, see point 5 to hold up a line parallel to the middle of the front above the line the circumference of the chest 3 cm From point 3 to hold the left horizontal the line to the line style.
For fasteners to draw a line that is parallel the middle of the front, at a distance of 3 cm Points 3 (top and bottom) to connect a straight line. Outline loop, as shown in Fig. 146 b. From the top point 3 to defer down direct 15 see Point 15 to connect with the top up neck continuing the line up to the length of the germ, in this case 8 cm From point 8 at a right angle to draw a line that is 10 cm From neck down through the middle of the front to postpone 3 cm from point 3 hold right horizontal line, equal to 4 cm and divide it in half.
Connect the dots 10, 4 and 15 a smooth line. From point 4 to postpone up and down 1 cm and both point 1 to connect to a breaking point. Waist outline two soft pleats with a depth of 2 cm 
Sleeve. To defer the sleeve length 50 cm (Fig. 146,) and through the point 50 to hold a smooth line parallel to the bottom of the sleeve.

Skirt. On the back panel of the skirt from the tuck end to hold down the vertical line to the bottom of the skirt (Fig. 146, g).
On the front panel of the skirt to be postponed at the hip line, the distance to front joint equal to the distance on the jacket from mid front to the line style (on the bottom of the jacket) and put in point B. point B to spend a vertical line to the bottom of the skirt and up to the waist line. Received line to build a tuck, as shown in Fig. 146, 
to Put the mark at a distance of 10 cm from the bottom of the skirt. 
The training patterns. To cut back, front of jacket and skirt lines style. Breast tuck to close. Cut off the excess part of the pattern the jacket and sleeves. To number parts. 

Layout and cutting


For cutting the skirt to cut one sheet along the length of the skirt plus 8 cm for seams. Fold the fabric along the grain lines (Fig. 147): Put the middle of the front the cloth of the skirt to the fold of the fabric, and the back of the cloth is the common thread. 
Side skirts to put the section line common thread. Cut out details, as shown in Fig. 147. 
The remaining fabric is folded at the fold equity and to lay out pattern pieces: 
item No. 1 - the middle of the front common thread; for burlap pocket to add a fabric layout; 
item No. 2 - common thread, add 8 cm for the pocket.
Other details to put, as shown in Fig. 147. 
All the parts cut out. 

Fitting and sewing 

a Skirt sew without bringing the line to the bottom 10 cm. to Hem the bottom of the handle sections. Sew on corsage. 
The jacket on the increase for the pocket details No. 2 to turn on the wrong side and delay on the front side. Baste and sew the items № 1 and No. 2. The lower part of the pocket to sew. Waist to zastrochit folds for 2 cm and press to one side. The first two parts of the sweep, and sew with item No. 3 on line style. The pocket needs to depart a little from the top jacket.
Processing zone, and vacate it in the line style on the waist. Baste and sew back along the lines of the style. To handle and sew belt with a length of 2 cm less than the distance from the middle of the back line with style (9 cm) . 
To oblachat loop. Sew the collar. Sweep podbot with collar. To pristroit and turn inside out. Processing and vacate sleeves. All seams to turn over. Hem bottom of jacket. Sew on buttons.