DRESS SCHOOL 


At rice. 238 depicts a school dress (form). The bodice, cut at the waist line, with pleats on lines the shoulder and waist, and button placket. On the skirt front and back two the crease, and line the sides of a small Assembly. Turn-down collar. Sleeves long cuffs. Fabric, wool or cotton. 


Lines cut and prepare the pattern 


Prepare the basic dress pattern and long sleeves on withdrawn standards. For this pattern to apply a line style. 
 

 Back. The depth of the back Darts two Darts (Fig. 239, a). The middle lines of the Darts continue down to the intersection with the bottom line dresses. The waist line and the bottom to continue to the right by 5 cm Both points 5 to connect with a straight line for the seam allowance on the Assembly. 
 

 Before. In the middle of the front from the neck down to postpone 2 cm (Fig. 239, b). From this points to hold a smooth line to the neck. From the middle front waist from point 2 to defer to the right by 2 cm clasp bodice. Outline loops: the first 2 cm below the neck, rest - at a distance of 6 cm from one another. The middle lines of the tucks continue down to the intersection with the bottom line. 


On the skirt from the waist line and bottom line to wait for the allowance of the Assembly 5, see 
 

 Sleeve. Main pattern sleeve upheld. To find a cuff length equal to the circumference of the wrist (17 cm) plus 2 cm
 

 Collar. Draw the rectangle ABC (Fig. 239,). Vertical lines equal to 9, see 
 

Horizontal line equal to the length of the sprout and neckline dress of 18 cm plus 2 cm 
 

From point A down to postpone 2 cm from point B to the left - 2 cm, Both points 2 to connect a smooth line.
 

From b to defer up 2 cm, this point to connect a straight line with a point 2 on the horizontal lines and smooth, with a place in 
 

 the Training patterns. The details of the skirt numbered. Cut the pattern accordingthe lines of the waist and pleats on the skirt. Extra patterns to cut. 


Layout and cutting

The fabric is doubled at the common thread (Fig. 240). 
 
Item No. 1, the middle of the front of the skirt, put the fold of the fabric. 
 
The hips with the pattern transferred to the fabric. Measure along this line the depth of the first fold 10 cm and to make the item No. 2. To measure the depth the second folds of 10 cm and to make the item No. 3. Braces folds to hold along the lines of the Darts. 
 
Items No. 4, No. 5 and No. 6 put in the same order as the items No. 1, No. 2, No. 3.
 
The layout pattern of the bodice, sleeves and other parts shown in Fig. 240. 

Note.The bodice front need to be done more freely by increasing the depth of the folds. For this pattern to cut on the right side tuck from the shoulder line to the waist line and push on the chest and shoulder 3 cm 

Sewing 

Sew folds on the lines the shoulder and waist, side and shoulder seams. To vitacare loop. To pritchet collar. To vacate sleeves. Sew pleats on the skirt, vacate the pocket on the right side, cutting the inner fold of the pleat from the waist down to 10 cm Hem hem. Handling of individual units is set out on page 265 - 287. 

SCHOOL APRON WITH STRAPS


In Fig. 241 depicts a school apron with straps, which are sewn breast and wings. The skirt waist laid folds, two on each side. The length of the apron should be shorter dresses 5 cm Fabric wool or cotton (Voile), black or white. 
 

Apron from white fabric finished with three or four horizontal pleats along the hem of skirts and on the chest. The width of the folds 0.5 cm, the distance between them is 1 cm. 


lines cut and prepare patterns


To prepare the main pattern to the waist dress size corresponding to the size of the apron. For this pattern to apply a line style. 


 Back. The pattern of the back to cook in expanded form. To defer fromsprout right shoulder 3 cm (Fig. 242, a), from point T to the left - see Point 8 3 and 8 to connect with a straight line.
 

From point 3 to defer to the right, 4 cm from point 4 to hold down the line parallel direct 3 - 8, and at the intersection with the waist to put point T1. From point 4 on the extension of the line of the shoulder to defer to the right 8 cm. Connect the dots 8 (at shoulder line), and T1 is a straight line. To share it in half and from the points of division to defer to the right 2.5 cm 
 

Line of the wing to hold a smooth line connecting the points T1; 2,5; 8. At the intersection of the straps with the middle of the back to put stamps.
 

 Before. To defer from the highest point of the neck to the left at the shoulder of 3 cm(Fig. 242 b), at the waist from center front - 4 see Points 3 and 4 to connect with a straight line. From point 3 to continue to the left shoulder line and to postpone 4 cm. from point 4 draw a line that is parallel to the line 3 to 4, and the intersection with the waist to put the point T2.
 

From point 4 on continue the shoulder line to delay the left 8 see Point 8 and T2 connect a straight line. Divide it in half, and from the points of division to postpone 2,5 cm The line of the wing to hold a smooth line connecting point 8; 2,5; T2.
 

To build Breasts to postpone in the middle of the front from the waist up, 12cm and from this point draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the side straps.
 

 The training patterns. The pattern to be cut by the plotted lines. Unnecessary parts of the pattern to cut.

Layout and cutting

The fabric is folded in half with the fold on the equity line. Measure 45 cm plus 5 cm at the seams - the skirt length of the apron. The rest of the fabric to put the straps, wings, belt, breast, as shown in Fig. 243.

Tailoring

to Sew on a machine narrow hem the sides of the skirt.
 
Hem the bottom of the apron with a hem of 4 cm to Cover the folds on the wrong side of the intended lines. 
 
Sections of the wings to hem with bias binding. Bakey tack face to the front side of the wings, pristroit at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge, fold inside out and sew a hidden seam. The width of the borders ready 2 see
 
Hem the top of the breast with ACC 2 cm To the lateral sections of the breast tack the front side of the upper and lower straps to pristroit. Tack the wings to the edges of the upper straps and pristroit. Seamsremove the inside of the straps, the sections of the lower straps to bend 0.5 cm and to sew over the edge.
 
The straps sweep back crosswise on brands. Then to the wrong side of the skirt and tack the lapels to the bottom side of the belt, combining the middle of the skirt and Breasts. The front top of the waistband tack and stitch all together. Bend the apron cut the waist, bend 0.5 cm, close to machine stitching, tack and stitch on the edge of the ACC belt. At the ends of the belt to sweep loop and sew buttons.

SCHOOL APRON TYPE CAPES 

On Fig. 244 depicts a school apron type Cape, no shoulder seams. The fabric is cotton or wool, black or white. 

Lines cut and prepare patterns

To prepare the pattern the main dress to the waist line. The pattern to apply a line style. 
 
 Back. From Rostock on shoulders and mid back the delay to 2 cm (Fig. 245, a). Both points connect smooth lines. 
 
The shoulder line continue to 8 cm At the waist from center back postpone 6 see Point 6 and 8 to connect with a straight line. This line split into four equal parts. From the bottom division to defer to the left 2 cm; from the top of the dividing point to the right 1.5 cm to Hold a smooth line (as shown in the drawing) through the points 6; 1,5; point of division; 2; 8. 
 
 Before. To defer from the highest point of the neck line on the left shoulder 2 cm (Fig. 245, b), from the neck down to the middle of the front - 4 see Point 2 and 4 to connect a smooth line. Continue the shoulder line and from point 2 to be postponed 17 cm (the remaining part of the shoulder 9 cm plus 8 cm). 
 
Waist from the middle of the front to postpone 7 see Points 7 and 17 connect by a straight line and divide it into four equal parts. To defer from the top of the division left 2 cm, from the bottom division to the right 1.5 cm Through 17; 2; the point of division; 1,5; 7 to hold a smooth line, as shown in the drawing. 
 
 Training patterns. Cut the pattern along the lines of the style of the back and front. Unnecessary parts of the pattern to cut. 

Layout and cutting

The fabric is doubled at the common thread. To bend the fabric to put the pattern as shown in Fig. 246. End-shoulder point of the wings to connect a smooth line. A line of conduct directly on the fabric with chalk or a sharp piece soap. 
 
For the skirt it is necessary to measure one blade-to-measure length and allow for seams 6 cm Width of the skirt of the semicircle is 1/2 waist plus 10 - 15 cm of the Assembly. 
 
To prepare the pattern of the belt of length equal to the waist circumference plus 3 cm on the buckle, width 3 cm (the shelf). 

Tailoring

Neck handle podkralas facing a 3 cm wide Slices wings to hem with bias binding width 2 cm Skirt waist to gather on a thread two times.
 
Tack the belt to the underside of the skirt and wings, combining them the middle. Then tack the front side upper part belt and pristroit all together. Bend skirt apron belt edge, bend the belt by 0.5 cm, close to machine stitching, tack and to stitch around the edge. On the left side of the belt to sweep the two loops inthe equity direction, on the right side - sew the buttons.