DRESS-SUNDRESS 

In Fig. 98 depicts a crochet dress from cotton fabric in a small cage. The bodice is elongated. Skirt fourwedges in the Assembly. On the skirt, and patch pockets, cut with a slanting the direction of the cells. 
Consumption of fabric for average size 4.5 m with a width of 70 cm 
Recommended for sizes upto 50. 

Lines cut and prepare patterns

To prepare the pattern surrounding the dress to the hips. 
Back. To defer from the waist line down to 9 cm (Fig. 99, a) and point 9 to connect with a straight line. From Rostock on the shoulder line and in the middle back to be postponed for 6 see Both points b to connect a smooth line.
Before. Pin tuck translate left 2 cm from the neck at the the top of the shoulder to defer 6 cm (Fig. 99, b). From point b to draw a line that parallel to the right side of the tuck. From the left side of the tuck to postpone left shoulder 2 cm and through the point 2 draw a line parallel to the left the side tuck. Align the length of a side tuck. On the line side from armhole to postpone 4 cm and a point to connect with the end of the new tuck.
From neckline to defer down in the middle of the front 6 cm, and from point 6 the left - 1 cm; point 1 and b (on the shoulder) to connect the auxiliary line. This line is split in half and the points of division perpendicular to auxiliary line postpone to the left of 5 cm to Hold a smooth line the line style of the neckline through the point b, 5 and 1. 
For the clasps of the dress from the point b in the middle of the front and bottom of the bodice to lay 2 see Points 2 and 1 is connected with a straight line. 
From the top 2 to defer down 9 see Points 9 and 1 to connect with a straight line.
Outline five loops on the dress after 7 cm from the waist line up and down. 
Wedge skirts. The drawing wedge of the skirt (Fig. 99,) it is necessary to measure the bottom of the bodice, which is 100 cm Then 100 divided by 4 (number of wedges) and the width of the top of the wedge, increase half on Assembly: 100: 4 X 1.5 = 37.5 in = 38 cm 
, draw a horizontal a line AB of length 38 see the line split in half and the dividing point hold down the vertical line of arbitrary length. To postpone down vertical 1 see Connect the dots A, 1 and B a smooth line.
The length of the wedge is equal to the length of the skirt from waist 70 cm minus the elongation of the bodice is 9 cm: 70 - 9 = 61, see 
From point 1 to defer down the vertical line 61 see the Width of the bottom wedge is two times more the top of the wedge: 38 X 2 = 76 see 
Through the point B1, draw a horizontal line to postpone it from the point B1 to the right and left, 38 cm and put the points In and H. 
Connect point a with point b and the point B with the point d a straight line. On these lines to delay at 61 cm from top to bottom. To hold the bottom line of the wedge through the points B1, 61, B1.
The wedge skirts to outline the place of the terminations of pocket for 8 cm below the line of the bodice. The height of the pocket 15 cm, width 18 cm 
The training patterns. On the pattern front to close the dart on the shoulder line and to open the line of translation of the Darts, cutting the pattern along the dotted line. The excess part of the pattern of the back and front to cut. 
Cut a wedge skirts. The pattern of the pocket to make a copy on tracing paper. 

Layout and cutting

For cutting back to measure the tissue along the length of the back and doubled at the common thread (Fig. 100). Put the pattern back on the fold to the middle tissue. The rest of the fabric folded in half by a transverse filament.
The middle of the front to put a common thread, stepping back from the edge 6 cm to podborta. 
For cutting four wedges skirts pattern by the middle of the wedge to put on fabric the transverse threads twice. Mid-wedge skirts can be put, and common thread, if you allow the width of the fabric. 
Pockets to put on the fabric, aligning the direction of the grain lines shown on the pocket with a partial thread of the fabric.
Other small details to put, as shown in Fig. 100. 
To find all the details of the dress. 

Fitting and tailoring 

Fold the wedges face, and sew. Neaten on one side. Top the skirts to collect twice and pull the string across the width of the bottom of the bodice. Hem the hem a hidden seam. 
To connect the bodice to the skirt. Tack and stitch the bodice at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. 
Pockets double folded face. Baste and stitch on the edge. 
Sew side and shoulder seams. Treating underarm and neck obrazkami. To pristroit pockets on 0.5 cm from the edge. To handle loops and sew on buttons.

SHIFT DRESS WITH DRAPE

Dress output, single cut with drapery, located above and below the the waist line (Fig. 101). Stand - up collar. The sleeves are set-in 3/4 length. Fabric - wool crepe. Consumption of fabric for average size 2.6 m when width 106 cm is Recommended for all sizes. 

Lines cut and prepare patterns

To prepare the adjacent main pattern of the dress and sleeves. 
Back. Style not available tuck at the waist, so basic tuck depth of 3 cm (Fig. 102, a) allocate the followingfollows: 1 cm to remove through the hips and mid back and 1 cm to pripasayte waist. For this distance from Rostock to the line the circumference of the chest split in half at the waist right to postpone 1 see Point 1 connect a straight line with a breaking point and with the line of the hips. 
Waist from left side to postpone 1 see Point 1 connect a smooth line with the hips and a straight line with a halter.
Line the sides to hold in a straight line from the hip line to the bottom of the dress. 
Before. Breast tuck to translate in a line style (Fig. 102, b). For the line style from the end of the arm through the armhole to postpone 8 cm.; point 8, and the right side of the first tuck on the waist line to connect a smooth line, departing from the end chest Darts at 3 cm From the end chest Darts hold the line transfer Darts perpendicular to the line style.
A second tuck on the waist line translate 1 cm to line the sides and to increase by 1 cm the depth of the first tuck on the waist line (3 + 1 = 4 cm). From the middle of the first tuck to make a vertical line to the bottom line dresses. 
In order to push the pattern to the drape necessary to hold parallel to the waist line four line cut through 3 inches: one above the waist and three below the waist. On line style to put the two brands, as shown in Fig. 102 b. 
Sleeve. In the midline sleeves delay the sleeve length 50 cm (Fig. 102,) and through the point 50 to hold the line parallel to the line of the bottom of the sleeves.
The construction of the collar. Draw rectangle ABC (Fig. 102, g). Vertical sides equal to 20 cm (the width of the collar in the expanded view), and horizontal - 40 cm (measurement neck circumference plus 4 cm for loose fit). 
In the drawing, to outline the direction of the grain lines on the bisector of the angle AGB. 
The training patterns. Cut off the excess part of the pattern of the back, front and sleeves. 
The pattern of the front cut lines from point 8 to the hem dresses. Tuck on the waist line cut. Breast tuck to close translate it to the line style.
Cut applied on parallel lines almost to the sides. To number parts.

Layout and cutting

The fabric is doubled across the width of the backrest (Fig. 103). 
The middle of the dress to put the common thread of the fabric, departing from bend 2 cm (to handle fasteners and seam). Sleeve to put the average line the common thread. 
Collar to put on the fabric, aligning the direction of the grain lines indicated on the collar (see Fig. 102, g) with equity the thread of the fabric. To carve out the back, sleeves and collar. The rest of the fabricdoubled common thread and to put items # 1 and # 2 as shown in Fig. 103. 
The cutting lines pattern (part no 2) to expand by 2.5 cm for draping.
From the remaining fabric to make the bow at oblique the thread direction, width 10 cm, length 38 - 40 cm 

Fitting and tailoring 

For detail No. 2, the lateral part of the front, the distance from the top brands to the bottom to collect twice, departing from the edge 1 cm of the Assembly to pull so to brand on this part coincided with stamps on items No. 1. Before dresses of the line of cut to shear off the pins and then dispensing evenly assemblies that sweep from top to bottom on the snare. 
Fold the fabric in the middle back from neck to slit for zipper length 20 cm, then from the clasp down to sweep for snares.
When trying on dresses need to pay attention to the correct distribution assemblies on the shape considering its features. In the case of perekopki to put brand in the line of assemblies to transfer them from the right side to the left. 
The collar is doubled in width, sew edges, crease to cover. Line pritochki collar to preposit (to collect on a string) and tack to the dress.
Line style sew-side assemblies. Then sew the shoulder and the side sections. To pritchet collar, vacate sleeves. That dress is not stretch waist from the inside to the seams to attach a braid or edge with a width of 1 cm. On the left side in the side seam to vacate "zip"