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Home » Articles » Women's and children's dress

Dress with draping/evening Dress

DRESS WITH DRAPE

Dress with drape

The dress is elegant (Fig. 104) from wool or silk. Waist cutting. The bodice is slightly draped for the left-hand side. Neck rectangular. Sleeves narrow casting 3/4 length. The skirt is straight, on the left side of one-way fold, a continuation of the line cut of the bodice. 
Consumption of fabric for average size of 2.6 m and a width 106 cm 

Drawing lines cut and prepare patterns

Drawing lines stylepreparing dress patterns with draping

To prepare the adjacent main pattern of the dress and sleeves narrow at the withdrawn standards.
Back. From Rostock in the middle of the back to delay down 3 cm (Fig. 105, a). From point 3. hold right horizontal line with a length of 14 cm. From the point 14 hold up at a right angle a straight line to the shoulder and put the point P. From the hip line to draw a vertical line to the bottom of the dress. 
Before. For this style main pattern of the front of the dressshould prepare the right and left halves connected by a middle front. From the mouth of the right half of the front shoulder to be postponed to the left the length of the shoulder back from Rostock to the point P, put a point P1 (Fig. 105, b). 
Point P1 to connect a straight line with the first tuck on the waist line left halves of the front. Through the middle of the same Darts on the skirt to hold a vertical line to the hem of the dress. 
Darts at the waist line the right half of the front to leave the place. They can be Stacey usually either in the form of two soft folds.
Pin tuck the right half of the front to transfer to the line side, what of the openings in line sides to delay down 3 see Point 3 to connect the dotted line with the end of a chest tuck. 
From the neck to defer to the right of the line shoulder on the left half of the front cut, equal cut from the neck to point P1 on the right side of the front, and put the point P2.
From neck to delay down in the middle of the front 8 see point 8 to hold left and right perpendicular to the middle of the front straight line. On the intersection of line style to put a stamp. The resulting cut to measure and to postpone his equal on the left half of the front; to put point M, which connect by a straight line with point P2. 
For draped lapel tuck the left half of the front to transfer to the line style, this from the end chest Darts perpendicular to the line of style to hold the dotted line.
Darts at the waist line on the left halves of the front also translate to the line style. To do this from the toppoints Darts to conduct a dotted line to the line style. To chart still one cut point of M. 
From the hip line to draw a vertical line to the bottom of the dress. 
Sleeve. In the midline sleeves delay down to 47 cm (Fig. 105,). To draw a line through the point 47, parallel to the line of the bottom of the sleeves. 
In the center of the top part of the sleeves to build a tuck depth 3 cm, length 9 cm, Both sides of the tuck to raise up 1 cm and connect with the top part of the sleeve a smooth line.
The training patterns. The pattern of the bodice is cut the waist line. On the right half of the bodice and pin tuck to close and translate it along the line of translation of the tuck. 
The pattern to be cut by the line style from the point P1 to the waist and from the waist line on the left the side Darts down to the bottom of the dress. On the right side of the tuck cut. On the left half of the gown pin tuck and tuck for the waist to close and translate them to the line style, cutting the pattern on applied lines. The excess part of the pattern of the back front and sleeves to cut. 

Layout and cutting

The layout on the fabric parts of the pattern dresses with drape

Fabric folded half face or the underside with the underside across the width of the parts No. 1 and No. 2patterns with the bend the grain lines (Fig. 106). The middle of the back to put to bend the fabric. The remaining fabric in a single layer to put sleeves. To cut with the specified seam. The rest of my fabric to put in one layer for layout details No. 3 - No. 6. 
Items # 3 and # 4 expand, as shown in Fig. 106. 
Item No. 5 to put the cut line along grain lines of the fabric, stepping back from the details # 4 at 16 cm, i.e. the depth of the folds. 
Part No. would put common thread, apart the pattern at the top of the incision at 2 cm.
To find all the details of the dress 

Fitting and tailoring 

On the contours of the patterns of the back and the Darts to lay the snare for the rest details of the pattern - thread stitch "forward a needle" Stitches approx should be equal 1 see to Lay the thread in the middle of the front, back, sleeves, tucks. 
The bodice of the line style (part no. b) to collect on two lines (for assemblies). Pull the Assembly so that the length of the line style the bodice of the dress is equal to the length of the line style in detail No. 3 of brand to the waist line.
Evenly distribute the drape, as shown in Fig. 104, and shear pins items # 3 and # b for line style, thensweep. Not to pull the line style, tack the edge. Sweep on the right half of the bodice Darts and the bodice side and shoulder sections. 
On the front panel of the skirt to cover up the crease on the reverse side. Chipped and sweep away the skirt on the side of cut. Bodice with skirt to match the waist line. 
For this style instead of the normal landing on top part sleeve zametyvayut tuck, which reduces the amount of landing on top part. Then baste the sleeve to the seam line. 
To try on the dress.
After fitting bodice line style stitch bridging stitch. Sew bust Darts the skirt and bodice. Sew shoulder and side sections. Seams to flatten two side and neaten. Sew Darts on the top part of sleeves, sew sleeves,hem with bias binding hem sleeves.
The skirt, sew and handle the side sections. To baste and to hem the bottom of the dress. 
Treating the neck with facing. The belt is sew and turn out. To vacate sleeves. Seam openings, neaten and iron "on the edge". To pritchet skirt to the bodice. To iron dress. 

EVENING DRESS

Evening dress

Evening dress from silk fabric with draping on the left half of bodice (Fig. 107), cut at the waist line. 
The skirt laid in soft pleats, instead of Darts. The sleeves are set-in 3/4 length. 
Consumption of fabric for average size of 3.3 m and a width of 75 cm 
 
lines cut and prepare patterns

Lines cut and prepare patterns evening dressesLines cut and prepare patterns evening dresses

To prepare the removed standards the adjacent pattern of the dress and sleeves. 
The back of the bodice. The back of the bodice cut from the skirt at the waist line. From Rostock, onshoulder postpone 6 cm (Fig. 108, a). From Rostock in the middle of the back to postpone down 6 cm, to connect the two points 6 a smooth line. 
Rear cloth skirt. Instead of tucks at the waist to outline a soft crease. From the right side folds is scheduled to be postponed at the waist twice 3.5 cm (Fig. 108, b). From these points draw a vertical line to line the bottom of the dress to cut a pattern. From the hip line to hold a vertical line to the hem of the dress.
Front bodice. Dress has an asymmetrical drape on the bodice, so the pattern of the front bodice should be in expanded form, i.e., the entire width (Fig. 108, in). On the pattern to mark the halves of the front, right and left. 
For ease of drawing lines style pin tuck translate down to the waist line.
From neckline to defer to the left on the shoulder line 6 see Line closed chest Darts on the left half the front split in half. The breaking point to connect the auxiliary line with point b. To divide the line in half. From the points of division to restore the perpendicular is equal to 1, see to Connect a smooth line point b,and point 1 division on the chest tuck.
Along these lines, to defer to the left from the line of Darts 4 cm; putting a stamp. From the mouth of the left halves front shoulder to defer to the right b cm; b and 4 to connect auxiliary line that is split in half. From the points of division a perpendicular is erected with a length of 0.5 cm and through this point to hold a smooth line. 
Allowance for the drape on the left half of the front outline three points for the cuts.
For the first point put 2 cm from the end of the arm to the left; for the second point - about 3 cm from end of shoulder line of the armhole down; for the third point - 4 cm down from point 3. The breaking point on the line tuck to connect with points 2, 3, 4 dotted lines. 
The end chest Darts on the right side of the front connect the dotted line with a dot dividing the chest Darts on the left half of the front. 
Waist at the side cuts to remove 1 cm due to the depth of the second tuck on the waist line. The remaining 1 cm the waist line of the processing should proposait.
The front panel skirt. On the waist line to remove the line of side 1 cm due to the depth of the second tuck. Point 1 (Fig. 108, g) to join with the hips a smooth line. From the hip line to draw a vertical line to the bottom of the dress. The remaining 1 cm to add to the depth of the first tuck on the waist line. Instead of Darts outline soft pleat depth of 4 cm From point 4 to the left to postpone two times at 3.5 cm From the points to the bottom of the skirt to make a vertical line to cut the pattern.
Sleeve. On the pattern sleeve in the middle to defer the sleeve length 45 cm (Fig. 108, d). To draw through the point 45 a line parallel to the line of the bottom of the sleeves. 
The training patterns. Cut the pattern of the front bodice along the line of cut of the neck caused by lines from points 2, 3, 4, but not to bring the cut at 2 - mm to 3 lines shoulder and armholes. Slitting line transfer Darts, and waist line tuck to close. The excess part of each pattern to cut. 

Layout and cutting

The layout on the fabric parts patterns evening dresses

The fabric is doubled face common thread (Fig. 109). The pattern front skirt cut from the waist in straight lines, without a cut to the bottom of the skirt to 2 - 3 mm. the Middle of the front to put on the fold of the fabric. At the lines of the cut apart pattern at the waist line to 4 - 5 cm for soft folds. 
The rear panel of the skirt to put on cloth the same as the front panel. 
The remaining fabric to put in a single layer. The middle front of the bodice to put on common thread, pushing each of the cut from the shoulder and the armhole is about 2 cm for drapery. 
To find all the details of the dress as shown in the figure. 

Fitting and tailoring

For the preparation of the dresses to the fitting to lay some soft folds forming drape. The direction of the draping should remain the same as shown in Fig. 107. Sweep neckline on the front dress. Added when you cut 5 cm at the neck is necessary for its processing. Baste the bodice at the shoulder and side sections, leave for vrachevanie "lightning" 8 cm on left side seam. 
On the front panel of the skirt to lay soft folds towards the middle of the front, on the back panel towards the middle of the back.
Sweep of skirt on the side of cut, leaving 12 cm from the waist line down sewn on the left side to vrachevanie "lightning". Cover-bottom dresses. To connect the skirt to the bodice at the waist line. Sweep sleeves. 
To try on the dress.
After fitting to sew a dress. Sew the neck (before draping) the incision is 4 cm lateral and shoulder seams. To prepare the facing neck back and sew with fabric, added the neck the front of the dress. Seams to resaturate on both sides. To pritchet obtachku of the neck to the back, to turn inside out and hem podrobnym seam.
Sew the sleeves. To handle the bottom of the sleeves. 
To maintain the correct direction of the soft folds on the skirt, it is necessary to stitch them from the wrong side from the waist line down to 2 - 3 cm. Sew the skirt on the side of cut, hem the bottom. Sew the skirt to the bodice at the the waist line. 
In the side seam of the dress on the left side to vacate "lightning". Prepare and stitch the belt. To vacate sleeves in armhole. To iron dress.



Category: Women's and children's dress | Added by: 20.10.2017
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