DRESS WITHOUT COLLAR, STRIPED FABRIC
 

In Fig.85 depicts a dress without a collar of cotton or silk fabric with stripes for spring and summer season. Dress simple, strict. A beautiful combination of stripes in the longitudinal and transverse direction give the dress elegant look.
Dress waist cutting; transverse insert cap. Cutout rectangular. Clasp in the middle of the front buttoned. The skirt around waist and laid soft folds. Consumption of fabric for average size of 2.85 m and a width of 90 cm Dress is recommended for all sizes.
The dress pattern is developed on the basic pattern semi-fitted dress.

Lines cut and prepare patterns
 

To prepare a main pattern semi-fitted dresses, to cause the line width of the openings and outline them on the bottom of the dividing point.
  Back. From Rostock in the middle of the back to delay down 4 cm (Fig. 86, a). From point 4, draw a horizontal line 10 cm in length From the germ line of the shoulder to defer 4,5 Points 4,5 and 10 to connect with a straight line.
The shoulder line continue to the right by 2 cm From point 2 at a right angle to postpone down 1,5 cm 1,5 Point to connect with the end of the arm a smooth line and breaking point on the concave armhole line.
At the waist depth of the tuck to split in half and the dividing point to the line of the bottom of the dress draw a straight line parallel to the middle of the back. Through the point B on the hip line to draw a vertical line up to the waist line and down to the bottom line. Waist line continue to a vertical line. The facing of the neck is planned 3 cm wide in the shape of the neckline.
  Before. From the neckline down the middle of the front to postpone 8 cm (Fig. 86, b). From point 8 to hold the left perpendicular to the middle of the front line to its intersection with the right side tuck, right, length 2 cm for the clasp. On the left side of the tuck to put a stamp. The skirt length from waist line to bottom of the dress, through the middle of the front, divided into three parts.
The end chest Darts to join a straight line with the right side of the first tuck on the waist line. The depth of this tuck to split in half and the dividing point to hold down a straight line parallel to the middle of the front, with a length equal to 2/3 the length of the skirt. From the bottom of the dividing point in the middle of the front to hold a perpendicular line to the left, to the intersection with a straight line, and the right 2 cm long, the clasp. Points 2 are connected by a straight line. A second tuck at the waist line to divide
in half and from the points of division draw a straight line to the bottom of the dress.
Line the side seam of the front from waist line to bottom line and armhole of the front are exactly like the back.
The facing of the neck is planned 3 cm wide in the shape of the neckline. Loops are envisaged in the horizontal direction in the following order: first from the neck, at a distance of 2 cm; the second - on the waist line; the distance from the first to the second loop to be divided into three parts and at the points dividing the outline of the loop between the other loops(from waist down) to chart the distance same as between the loops at the top of the dress.
  Training patterns. The pattern of the back and front cut, as shown in Fig. 86, and numbered parts.

Layout and cutting
 

Cut the fabric equal to two lengths of the skirt, folded in half in shared direction. The details positioned in the following order.
Item No. 1 (Fig. 87), the middle of the front, put the fold of the fabric. The hips details No. 1 to continue arbitrarily off on it 11 cm folds, and you put the item number 2.
Item No. 3 to put to bend the fabric; stepping on the line of the thigh 15 cm for folds, put the item No. 4.
The remaining fabric is folded, the positioning of the stripes over stripes with either a transverse filament.
Item No. 5 to be positioned so that the line tuck coincided with the direction of the grain lines; item No. 6 positioning of the transverse filaments at a distance of 6 cm from the tissue slices for processing loops and podborta.
Item No. 7 the middle of the back, put the grain lines and cut in the unfolded state in a single top layer of fabric.
All the details to carve out a seam, as shown in Fig. 87.
Piping to neck and sleeves cut in the same Board as the top of the dress.

Fitting and tailoring

Sew shoulder and side sections of the bodice. Sew the skirt. Hem hem a hidden seam. On the front and rear panels of the skirt at the waist to lay and sweep the folds shallow depth of 1 cm, located from one another at a distance of 1 cm folds on the front panel of the skirt 16 and the rear 20. Creases on the rear panel of the skirt, turn the sides in the front towards the middle of the front.
On the front cross-piece insert, in accordance with the style, handle loop, then apply the right half to the left in the middle of the front tack. To sew a belt of two separate pieces. Tack the belt to the points of contact of the insert with the dress .at the waist line. To pristroit box to the dress on three sides, grinding off each side separately from inside out. Sew the neck facing on the front side, remove the inside out. Sleeve handle as well as neck. Sew on buttons and ironed dress.

DRESS FOR WORK
 

Dress for work (Fig. 88) - potrebnoe waist. Fabric - wool or thick rayon. The sleeves are set-in 3/4 length. The banded collar. Clasp on two buttons. Welt pockets. Back inverted pleat. Dress is recommended for all sizes. Consumption of fabric for average size of 3.5 m and a width of 90 cm

lines cut and prepare patterns
 

To prepare a main pattern semi-fitted dress and sleeves.
Back. Line the sides from the hips in a straight line, parallel to the middle of the back (Fig. 89, a).
Before. Pin tuck transfer to the line side. To do this, from the armhole to defer down the line sides of 4 cm (Fig. 89, b) and point 4 to connect with the tuck end.
From the end of the first tuck on the waist line to hold the line out to the sides parallel to the waist line. From this line to defer up to 4 cm and from point 4 draw a parallel line (width of leaves). Outline
the dotted line podkraj pockets, which slide down from the end of the first tuck line with a length of 12 cm and a line from the point 12 to the left parallel to the line of the hips to line the sides. Line the sides from the thighs
a straight line parallel to the middle of the front.
The neckline is split in half. From the line of the neck in the middle of the front to postpone 1 cm and the point 1 is connected with the point of dividing for the neckline. From point 1 to defer to the right 3 cm for the clasp. From point 3 draw a line parallel to the middle front to bottom of dress. Outline loops: the first one on the line of circumference of the chest, the second-level pocket.
To build podborta to defer from the neck on
shoulder 3 cm at the hip line from the middle of the front 5 see Connect the dots 3 and 5 with a dotted line.
Sleeve. In the midline to defer the sleeve length 50 cm (Fig. 89,) and through the point 50 to draw a line parallel to the line of the bottom of the sleeves.
The drawing of the collar. To construct a right angle with the vertex A (Fig. 89, g). From point A down the vertical delay to 7 cm, which is 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 1 cm.
From the point 7 with a radius of 18 cm (the semicircle of the neck) to make a notch on the horizontal line. Connect the dots 7 and 18 with a straight line. This line is split in half and the points of division to delay down 2 see Connect the dots 7, 2, And a smooth line.
From point 18 to defer to the right 8 cm horizontally. From point 8 at a right angle to delay down 3 cm Connect points 18 and 3 with a straight line. From point 7 to delay down 10 cm (width of collar back), point-2 - 9.5 cm.
Connect the dots 10; 9,5; 3 smooth line.
The training patterns. Close the dart on the shoulder line, open - line translation of the tuck.
Cut off the excess part of the pattern along the lines of the neck, sides and sleeves.
Podbot and podkraj pocket to remove the tracing paper.

Layout and cutting
 

The fabric is doubled at the common thread (Fig. 90).
To put a common thread: the middle of the dress, pushing from the bend to a depth of pleats 10 - 12 cm; the middle of the front, leaving the ACC 4 cm from the thighs to the bottom of the dress. Other details to put, as shown in Fig. 90. All the details to carve out.

Fitting and tailoring

After trying to handle the pockets. Podbot to sew from the neck to the hips. To vitacare loop.
Darts at the waist line sew only from the waist down, not up close, but only to make amends. Sew side and shoulder seams and neaten.
Collar vacate in podbot.
Hem the bottom of the dress. Sew on buttons. Belt to sew and turn out, for the density to sew at the waist corsage.

DRESS WITH A RACK AND NOTCHED NECKLINE
 

Dress (Fig. 91) of thick fabric with a stand and an angled neck can be recommended for both summer and winter season.
Front dresses up the front Darts on the piece with the seam in the middle. The side of the front skirt
cutting and flared.
The skirt from the waist line slightly flared.
Consumption of fabric for average size 4 m, with a width of 80 cm
The style of dress developed on the basic pattern semi-fitted dresses and sleeves; recommended for all sizes.

Lines cut and prepare patterns
 

Back. To build a stand to extend the line up the middle of the backrest 4 cm (Fig.92, a). From Rostock to defer up 3 see Point 4 and 3 to connect a smooth line. From point 3 to be postponed to the left 1 cm point 1 to connect with the shoulder line.
For piping stand to be postponed from the line of the sprout down the middle of the back 2 cm, and the shoulder line 4 see Points 2 and 4 to connect the dotted line. From the middle of the Darts to the hem of the dress to draw a vertical line to cut the pattern.
Before. To build a stand to defer up from the top of the neck 2.5 cm (Fig. 92, b). From the point of 2.5 to defer to the right horizontally 1.5 cm. of 1.5 Point to connect a smooth line with the top of the neck. The neckline is split in half.
In the middle of the front from neckline to defer down 6 cm and from point b to the left horizontally - see Point 7 of 1.5 through the point of division of the neck to connect with a 7 point smooth line and continue with a dotted line to the end of a chest tuck (tuck translation) .
From the line of circumference of the chest in the middle of the front to delay down 5 cm the circumference of the circle of the breast to continue beyond the middle of the front 4, see Points 7 and 4 to connect an auxiliary line to divide it in half. From the dividing point to drop the perpendicular, is equal to 1 cm; neck to hold a smooth line through the points 7, 1, 4 and 5.
At the bottom of the dress from center front to defer to the right 3 cm, for bracing and point 3 to connect with the waist line.
From the middle of the Darts on the waist line to hold up the hem of the dress vertical lines to cut the pattern.
The facing of the neckline to outline a dotted line. On the shoulder from the neck to defer 4 see point 5 in the middle of the front to delay down 3 cm. from point 3 to the left - 7 see Points 4, 7 and 3 to connect the dotted line.
Sleeve. Sleeve cut off a length of 50 cm.
The training patterns. After drawing lines, cut the pattern back and front cut on the lines as shown in Fig. 92. A tuck at the shoulder line close, and on the intended line to open.
Darts at the waist line cut. Cut the extra part of the pattern.
Parts numbered.

Layout and cutting
 

The fabric is folded in half edge to the edge with the bend the grain lines (Fig. 93, a).
Items No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 to put the common thread of the fabric; make struts for detail No. 2 and No. 3 on the tuck (wedges skirts), as shown in Fig. 93, and,
The back of the bodice, the back panel of the skirt and podkraj neck to find.
 

The rest of the fabric folded in half by a transverse filament (Fig. 93, b).
Item No. 4, the front bodice of the dress, along with neotrazimoi a part of the skirt to put on the fabric, placing the middle front along the edge of the common thread. The skirt brace to do the tuck and add, along the lines of the waist and the bottom of the skirt by 6cm at the half depth of pleat.
Part No. 5 put on fabric at common thread. To make a brace for the tuck and add 6 cm to half the depth of the folds.
Sleeve to put the middle line at the grain lines of the fabric.
All the details to carve out a seam, as shown in Fig. 93 b.

Fitting and tailoring

Below are some features of the preparation to the dress fitting this style.
The opening tack edge, so as not to strain the neck.
Baste a tuck at the neck for a length of 3 cm
Sweep wedges skirt. When smachivanie skirts must below the waist line, hips coincided. Slices wedges pre-chopping the pins to the fabric when smachivanie did not move.
Front tuck bodice must move on to the pleated skirt. Crease the folds should be the same as the folded Darts at the bodice, so the skirt is easier to tack the bodice, and then lay a tuck and a fold.
Lay the front Darts on the bodice and pleats on the skirt and sweep them.
Front cut sleeveless delay (see Fig. 168). On the ulnar cut to cover two Darts. Then the sleeves sweep.
After fitting sew shoulder and side sections, neaten and resuturing on two sides. Sew the front seam. Neaten over the edge. To iron.
Sew pin tuck at a distance of three inches and handle neck pokrainini obrazkami.
Sew Darts in the bodice at the back and the side tuck. Remove the basting and press the front Darts towards the middle of the front, back to the middle of the back.
Sew wedges skirts, handle the slices and wedges to iron the seams "on the edge". Hem the bottom of the dress. Tack the skirt to the bodice.
Sew the waistband, turn, attach the corsage to the width of the belt, to make the clasp side on two hooks.
Sweep the front tuck with a pleat on the skirt, inserting the belt to the middle belt coincides with the waist line.
Sew the sleeves. Bottom sleeve handle facing.
To votati sleeves and vacate.