INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY 

a FITTING 

Preparation for the first fitting 

The contour patterns on the cut parts to lay snares (Fig. 14). Lay a thread along the lines of the middle of the back, front, collar, sleeves, waist, and hips. 
Along the lines of brace folds to outline thread control marks for proper alignment of parts, designated the location of loops, pockets, etc.
Sweep the product along the lines of snares, starting with Darts. Tuck chipped the pins and sweep from the narrow end to the wide. Chipped and sweep away the creases and cuts in the lines style. Tack the yoke to the back and to the front, tack pockets, etc p. Chopping and sweep away the side sections, the parts exactly on the lines of the waist and thighs. The sections were processed by double seam, sweep on the front side. Shoulder seams of the back of the line snares for landing to collect on a string stitch "forward needle" to pull to 1.5 cm and sucurity from the inside (if the fabric lends itself to sturke).
Instead of landing you can make a tuck at a distance of 1/3 the length of the shoulder from Rostock. The depth of the tuck is the value of landings, the length of the Darts 5 to 6 cm 
Shoulder seams chipped and sweep from the back, exactly at neckline and armhole.

The top part of the sleeve assembled on two threads, one thread to place behind the line snares and the other at 0.5 cm from them, closer to the cut, stepping back from the seam sleeve 8 - 10 cm (Fig. 157). 
Both lines for planting lifts the sleeve to pull. Chopping the pins and sweep the right sleeve. 
Chopping the pins and sweep away all the details and the folds of the skirt, exactly the details along the lines of the waist, hips, the bottom of the garment.
To connect the bodice and skirt waist inseam, exactly line the middle of the back, the front, line the side seams, tucks and style. 
Skirt oblique cut (bell bottom) to the fittings to hang on the hanger on 10 - 20 hours. for the backstay. A small weight attached to the bottom of the skirt, having an oblique direction yarns. After a delay line of the bottom to align. 
The bodice with cap sleeves is first necessary to shear the pins and sweep the side sections of the product and lower seams of sleeves.
The top seams of the cap sleeves sweep back. For this shoulder seams of the product and the top seams of the sleeves to shear off the pins on brands and sweep, a little propositiva sleeve on the back. 
Tack the gusset on the front side of the product. 
In preparation for the fitting of a separate skirt first of all to sweep away tuck and line style, lay and sweep the folds in the front and rear sheets. Then baste the side seams.
When smachivanie slices of the product not in the seams to samitivate tuck, and you should leave themfree. This is necessary in order to, for example, when grinding chest or side tucks not to strut shoulder and side seams. 

First fitting 

The product (dress, skirt, blouse, jacket, etc.) to wear to figure, to chop off in the middle of the front or back of the product, exactly on the waist line the neck to the hips. Below the figure the product is not moved, it need to pin to underwear, positioning correctly the middle of the product.
First, we need to pay attention to the overall fit on the shape to mark flaws, and then proceed to correct them on the right side of the product.
On the fitting it is necessary to clarify the direction and the amount of tucks, Drapes, folds, shoulder and side seams, neckline the neck and armholes, a-line style. Banded collar it is necessary to prepare of any fabric and pinning it to precise size and shape. Then to check the location of the hinge pockets. To specify the length of the sleeve, jokes it to the armhole so that the line of the middle of the sleeves have the vertical direction. To specify the length of the product. To do this, to put on the floor a ruler and mark it with a pencil or chalk the desired length. Gradually moving the line around the hem, mark with chalk orthe pins on the fabric the length from the floor.
When fitting a costume, you first need to try on the skirt and then the jacket and to clarify the overall style of costume. 
For fitting separate skirts to prepare grosgrain ribbon size waist plus 4 cm for the treatment of the ends of the tape. Grosgrain ribbon encircle the figure and pinned on the ribbon sour cream skirt, making sure that the middle of the front and rear panels of the skirt were in the middle of the figure.
When trying on products, defects are found that need to be addressed. Below are the individual defects and their solutions.

1. Shoulder seam out of place, goes to the back (Fig. 158, a)- a short back or is too large before. 
Need to unpick the seam of the shoulder, remove the excess fabric at the front (Fig. 158, b) or to unpick the side seam and lift the back of the product (Fig. 158,). 
2. Shoulder seam transferred to the front of the product (Fig. 158, g) low high point of shoulder the front. Need to remove the back and lengthen the front of the product (Fig. 158, d), or to unpick the side seams and raise the front of the product (in this the case of the front armhole should be deepened, Fig. 158, e).

3. Armhole at the front behind small breast tuck (Fig. 159, a). You should increase the depth of the chest Darts (Fig. 159, b). 
4. Arm behind the back of the dress is small fit on the shoulder (Fig. 159, in). It is necessary to percolate on the product shoulder seam, pick it up at the back and make bluu fit (Fig. 159, d).
 
5. On the back the line Rostock formed creases (Fig. 160, a). Need to strut shoulder seam and release the back shoulder at the armhole (Fig. 160, b). 
6. The skirt formed creases in front or back (Fig. 161, a). Need to raise the front or rear panel of the skirt at the waist (Fig. 161, b).
To clarify the length and depth of tucks and folds, a-line style. If tuck located not in place, they should be cut up and lay again the figure on the right side of the skirt.

On the fitting products cap sleeves special attention should be paid to the plight the top seams of the cap sleeves. The top seam should be positioned in the middle of the shoulder and in the middle of the lowered arm (Fig. 162). Front and the back around the arm openings should be folds in the vertical direction, which are necessary for the movement of the hand.
The figure with sloping the shoulders of the sleeves are formed by oblique folds. To fix this defect, it is necessary the end of the shoulder seam to lift, eliminating and width sleeves. 
For figures with prominent shoulder blades need to cut the back instead of planting fabric to cover the tuck.
If on the front cap sleeves have creases like shown in Fig. 163, top seam of the sleeve should be cut up to the shoulder and front seam slightly to pull down to straighten the creases. Then again the seam pin and align the bottom of the sleeves. If the shoulder and the upper seams of the sleeves are right, and the sleeve is wide, the width of the sleeve it is necessary to reduce in the lower seam.
Sometimes one-piece dress the back at the waist line formed by the excess fabric in the form of inlet, and below the waist line of the dress is covered. This deficiency occurs because tucks below the waist line you got it too deep and do not meet figure. To fix this, we need to unpick the Darts and stab tuck again, as required by the figure. 
If cap dress raised before, should be at the shoulder seams from the neck to release the stock fabric and percolate shoulder seam. The side seam of the equipment must be vertical direction.
Corrections are made on the right side, move to the left side. Fixed line for example, on the shoulder to identify the string and to place control marks (Fig. 164). Then rip the seams on the left side of the product, ironed and chipped right and left sides. Lay thread, to put control brand new lines and again sweep away the seams. 
On the grosgrain ribbon place the Darts, line the middle of the front and rear panels of the skirt to identify threads of control brand the finished corsage could to sew the skirt as it was scheduled for a fitting.

Preparation for the second fitting 

After the remedy on the first fitting flaws sew Darts from the wide end, reducing them to nothing. To press tucks from the inside by the middle of the product. Sew and zastrochit line style, obtusate loop pockets. Sew shoulder seams from the shelves. The seam resuturing or to press in the back side. Sew the side sections to resuturing or to press the seams.
Bend and sweep hem. Sew collar and cuffs podvorotnya poznaniyami. The finished part to iron. To votati collar, sew and press seams on sleeves, tack and pritchet cuffs. To votati sleeves. To connect the skirt with the bodice. 

The second fitting 

On the second fitting to check whether umetani collar, sleeve, the position of the seam on the waist, the length of the product. If necessary, the product fix. 
After the second fitting to vacate collar and sleeves. Sew the bodice to the skirt, to process hem, loops, sew buttons. Remove the basting and iron product.