FROM THE AUTHORS 

With the steady growth of the welfare and culture of our country day by day increasing needs of the Soviet people in a beautiful, delicate and good clothes.
Many women who like to sew, am interested in making clothes at home: how to build your own drawing patterns any fancy dress, how to prepare the pattern and place it on the fabric for the proper and economical cutting. In addition, interest and subsequent processing of dress, preparation for fitting, fitting the figure, sewing features and proper Ironing.
In this book, the authors - a team of faculty Courses masters garment production No. 1 Urban training center of Moscow city - sought to answer these questions on the basis of his long experience on the courses.
The book consists of four sections.
The first section of the book "General information" introduces readers stitches, seams and accessories used in the sewing of light women's and children's dresses, as well as taking measurements, preparing fabric to cutting, layout and solve.
In the second section, "lingerie and slip dress" designed various styles of products (lingerie, blouses, skirts, dresses, dress-suits), contained drawings of the major patterns of products. Considered the production of each product separately: drawing style lines on the basic pattern, preparing the pattern layout on the fabric, cutting and sewing sequence.
The manufacturing of women's easy dresses of various styles is found a lot in common, so at the end of the second section summarizes the technologies that are also necessary when sewing children's dresses and tracksuits (the third and fourth sections).
In these information briefly describes the preparation for the fitting of the first and second fitting, the treatment of collars, sleeves, cuffs, loops of different types, angles, pockets, bottom of articles and several ways terminations waist to the skirt. Set forth the execution of some finishing works:fine and coarse wrinkles, trim piping, stitching, lace, soutache and buttons.
At the end of this section provides details on the Ironing and atpart products.
The third category of "Children's underwear and light dress" begins by describing the manufacture of products for toddlers. Then separately examined the drawings pattern, drawing lines of the design, preparing patterns, cutting and sewing dresses for girls in preschool, school age and adolescents. The section ends with a description of the manufacture of shirts, jackets and trousers for boys aged 3 to 12 years.
In this section, in connection with the processing features of shirts and pants, some information on the technology are given directly in the description of the sequence of tailoring.
In the fourth section, "Suits for sport" have developed several styles of costumes for summer and winter sports. Considered, as in the previous sections, drawings of patterns, cutting and sewing sequence of each product.
The book is illustrated with cuts of the products, drawings, building of patterns, layouts and drawings according to the processing technology.
See the styles of products do not exhaust all the demands of the population. But the designs can vary from the construction of collars of different shapes, the translation of a breast tuck. About how to do it, shown in the illustrated Application.
 

ABOUT CHOOSING A STYLE 

Before to choose style of dress, you have to decide whether it is for home, for work or weekends.
If this dress is for home, it should be free, not constraining movements, and is made of good washable fabrics.
The style of dress for work should be simple and strict, without unnecessary clutter of lines and finishes. To work very comfy skirts and skorts with blouses, dresses severe forms of wool, staple, or cotton fabrics.
Weekend and evening gowns are recommended a variety of styles - direct and extended forms, closed and with a large cut, from different woolen, silk fabrics, fabrics from chemical fibers.
When choosing a style, purpose in addition to dresses, you need to consider modern fashion, a feature shape, size, age of the woman.
We must not forget that the style of dress designed for tall, slender figures, will have a very unsightly on a small plump woman.
When choosing a style should also note that full women are not recommended dress with cross lines (wide closetime) or gathered skirts with a wide waistband; not recommended and fabrics in bright colors or with large patterns, large cell, with transverse stripes.
Full women are dresses semi-fitted cut, strict form, netrezvye at the waist line, with perpendicular lines cut elongates the figure.
For skinny tall women good looking dresses more free-form with transverse lines.
As you know, dress length determined fashion, but not blindly follow it without considering the peculiarities of the shape and age of the woman.
To dress was the woman, along with well-chosen style, the appropriate and correct choice of color of the fabric, the fabric color should harmonize with the complexion, hair and eyes women.
It should also be emphasized and great importance of the right combination of dresses women s hats, shoes, stockings, gloves and bag.
 

TAKING MEASUREMENTS FOR THE DRAWING OF PATTERNS 

When making drawings of patterns women's dresses you must consider the different physical characteristics of female figures and know the process of taking measurements.
The figures distinguish between right or conditionally proportional, and with deviations from the relatively proportional and stooped, pereghibati (Fig. 1), with a large and a small bust, full, etc.
Taking measurements, or measurement of shapes is one of the most important stages in the process of making clothes. The accuracy of the measurements in the future depends on the correct construction of patterns, i.e. their compliance with the characteristics of the shape.
Before you begin taking measurements, you need a figure, dressed in a light dress without any additional jacket, encircle the braid or cord on the waist line.
Measurements remove the measuring tape, making no allowance.
Measurements of circumferences (neck, chest, waist, etc.) and the width of the back recorded in half-size, and measurements of the length completely.
Filmed on the standards of design drawing the main pattern of the product on the right side of the figure. When creating drawings of the main pattern make gain measurements on the free fit. The magnitude of the increase depends on fashion, style, and appearance of the product.
The number of measurements depends on the type of product.

Measurements for dresses and blouse

Neck circumference, measure 1 (Fig. 2, a), remove the base of the neck.
The chest circumference, measure 2, is removed so that centimeter passed back along the line of the blades, and the front most convex part of the chest.
 

The measure of the semicircle of the breast is considered to be the size of the product.
The waist circumference measurements of 3, shoot for the narrowest of the waist.
The circumference of the hips measure 4, shoot horizontally, the highest part of the thighs and buttocks.
The width of back, measure 5 (Fig. 2, b), is removed, positioning the measuring tape on the blades, from one hand to the other, above the circumference of the chest at 6 - 7 cm.
Length of back to waist, scoop 6, is removed from the 7-th cervical vertebra to the lower edge of the ribbon that encircles the waist. If the measurement of the figure will show that the blades are given much, to obtain more accurate measurements should the thumb be placed under a centimeter between the shoulder blades.
The length of the product, measure 7, is removed in the middle of the back of the 7th cervical vertebra to the desired length of the product. The length of the product varies depending on fashion and style.
The height of the bust, measure 8 (see Fig. 2, a), is removed from the 7-th cervical vertebra at the base of the neck to the longest point of the breast.
The length of the front to the waist line, measure 9, is removed from the 7-th cervical vertebra at the base of the neck, at the apex of the chest to the lower edge of the ribbon that encircles the waist.
The length of the shoulder, measure 10 (see Fig. 2, b), is removed from the base of the neck to the shoulder joint.
The sleeve length, measure 11 (see Fig. 2, a), is removed in the following way: for long sleeves off the shoulder bone to the wrist in a bent position of the arm at the elbow; sleeve length 4 - on the same line, but below the elbow to 12 - 15 cm; short sleeves - also on this line, but above the elbow.
The circumference of wrist measurements 12, remove the base of the hand.
Note. Measurements 6 (shoulder width), 8 (height of bust) and 9 (front length to waist) are the control or test.
When you build the drawing patterns of these measurements are determined by calculation verified by taken standards.

Measurements for skirts and trousers

Waist circumference (Fig. 3 a) is removed in the same way as for dresses scoop 3.
The circumference of their hips shoot as well as for dresses scoop 4.
The skirt length from waist to floor measure from the front (Fig. 3, a), side (Fig. 3, b), rear (Fig. 3). In accordance with fashion and style establish distance from the floor to the bottom of the skirt (Fig. 3, g)
 

Measurements for clothes

Measurements for nightgowns.
Neck circumference, measure 1 (see Fig. 2, a).
Circumference of chest, merc 2.
The length of the chemise, measure 13 (see Fig. 2, b), shoot in the middle of the back of the 7th cervical vertebra to the desired length.
Hand circumference above the elbow, merc 14.
The sleeve length measurement 11.
Measurements for bra. The chest circumference, measure 2 (see Fig. 2, a).
Circumference under the breast, merc 15.
Measurements for the bottom of the skirt. Measurements removed in the same way as for the skirt (see Fig. 3).