JACKET YOKE
Jacket - yoke with pockets (Fig. 285). Bottom backless and sleeveless assembled on elastic band. Line sides sewn the little tabs snap buttons. The fabric is thick cotton or wool.
The drawing patterns jackets removed following measurements, see
the semi-circle neck............ 16
breast . . . . .38
the length of the jacket ...,.................. 47
" shoulder . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,5
" sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . .52
Construction drawing of the back
Draw a rectangle АНВН1 (Fig. 286, a).
A vertical line of equal measure jacket length: an = ВН1 = 47 see
The horizontal line is equal to the semicircle of the breast plus 7 cm (free fit) and 1 cm (as the back is gathered with elastic): AB = НН1 = 38 + 7 + 1 = 46, see
the depth of the armhole. From point A to postpone down vertical 1/3 semicircle breast plus 6 cm and place the point of G: AG = 38: 3 + 6 = 18,6 cm
Line the circumference of the chest. From point G to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point G1.
The width of the back. From point G to defer to the right horizontally the width of the back is about 1/3 of the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm and 1 cm, to put the point G2: ГГ2 = 38: 3 + 4 + 1 = 17,6 see
From point G2 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal and to put the point A1.
The width of the openings. From a point G2 to defer to the right horizontally the width of the armholes, equal to 1/4 of the semicircle of the breast plus 2 cm, to put point G3: Г2Г3 = 38: 4 + 2 = 11.5 cm
From point G3 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal, to put the point A2.
Line the side seam. The width of the openings to be divided into two equal part, to put an end G4. From this point to hold down vertical line to its intersection with the line of the bottom of the jacket and put the end of H2.
The width of the blade. From point A to defer to the right of the horizontal width Rostock is about 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm and put in point a: AA = 16:3+0,5 = 5,8 cm
Height. From point a to hold up the vertical line, is equal to 2.5 cm, to put the point A1: Aa1 = 2.5 cm,
to Connect points A1 and A smooth line.
Shoulder line. For slope of shoulder from point A1 to postpone down vertical 2 cm From the point A1 to hold right through the point 2 a line is measure the shoulder length plus 1 cm, to put the point P: а1П = 11,5 + 1 = 12,5 see
the Line of openings. From point G2 to draw a line that divides the angle in half, equal to 3, see the Line of openings to hold from a point P of a smooth line, tangent to the line Г2А1, then through point 3 to point G4.
Construction drawing of the front
Width of the neck. From point b to delay the left horizontal 1/3 the semicircle of the neck, plus a 2.5 cm and put the point B1: BB1 = 16: 3 + 2,5 = 7,8 cm
The depth of the neck. From point b to delay down vertical 1/3 semicircle neck minus 1 cm (height side),to put the point B2: BB2 =16:3 - 1 =4,3 cm
Points B1 and B2 to connect a smooth line.
Shoulder line. For slope of shoulder from the point A2 to postpone down vertically 2.5 cm From point B1 to hold the left through the point 2,5 line equal measure the shoulder length and put the point P1. В1П1 = 11.5 cm
Line openings. From point G3 to draw a line of length 2 cm, dividing the angle in half. The line of openings to hold a smooth line from the point P1, tangent to the lines Г3А2, through point 2 to point G4 .
Clarification of the bottom line of the front. From the point H1 to defer down vertically 2 cm, point 2 and H2 combine to a smooth line.
3астежка. For fasteners from the points B2 and 2 to defer to the right horizontally for 2 cm. and point 2 are connected by a straight line.
Line yoke (applying line style). From point B2 to postpone down vertical of 12 cm From point 12 to hold the left horizontal line to its intersection with the line of openings, and right - to the intersection with line of fasteners.
Pocket. From point 12 to delay line yoke 4 cm From point 4 to defer to the left the width of the pocket 11 cm, and down- height 9 cm From point 11 to defer down 9 cm and both point 9 to connect the straight dotted line. Outline the loop on the pocket.
Tab. Strap width 3 cm, length 5 - 6 cm, plus 1.5 cm for mysyk. On the tab to identify the loop.
Podbot. To defer from the point B1 to the left of the line of the shoulder 3 cm, from the middle of the front of the line of Basque - 7 cm and the bottom line - BSM. Connect the straight dotted lines the points 3, 7 and b.
Building collar. From a point B1 at the shoulder line to postpone 1 cm and draw a line that is tangent to the neck, continue the line over the point 1 to the length 6.3 cm (length of the sprout); to put the point B3.
From point B3 to hold up a line at a right angle to the line В31 equal to the width of the collar is 6cm to put the point B4. From point B2 to hold up a line parallel to line the middle of the collar (B3 B4), is equal to 5, see
Point 5 to connect with the point B4 to the point B4 was straight angle.
Construction drawing sleeves
Draw a rectangle АНА1Н1 (Fig. 286, b). A vertical line of equal measure sleeve length - 52 cm: an=А1Н1=52cm.
To determine the horizontal lines it is necessary to measure 1/3 of the semicircle breast add 4 cm and everything is double: AA1 = НН1 = (38: 3 + 4) x 2 = 33,2 cm
Line height of the crown. From point A to postpone down vertical 3/4 the depth of the openings minus 1 cm and place the point R: AR = 18,6: 4 x 3 - 1 = 13 cm
From point R to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point P1.
Horizontal line AA1 be divided into four equal parts. Average the breaking point denoted by the letter V. From each point of division to hold down vertically straight up to the intersection with the line of the bottom of the sleeves; to put point H2, H3, H4.
Line the top part. Connect the straight subsidiary lines point To points R and R1. At the intersection withline the elbow to put a point On, and with the line of the front fold point O1. Line VO1 and VO split in half and the dividing point on the line VO1 defer up to 1 cm from the dividing point on the line S-1.5 cm LineО1Р1 split in half and the points of division to postpone down 1 see
Cut RO split in half. From point O to defer up vertically 1.5 cm Line lifts the sleeve to hold as shown in Fig. 286, b.
Line the bottom of the sleeves. To defer up vertical lines from points N, N3, N1 1 cm, and from the point H2 - 2 cm Line the bottom of the sleeves to hold, a smooth curve connecting the points 1, H4,1,2, 1.
Line seam sleeves. Hem sleeves delay from the left point 1 to the right and from the right point 1 to the left by 3.5 cm Connect the straight lines points 3.5 points P and P1.
To conduct the dotted line for the elastic at a distance of 2.5 cm from the bottom of the sleeves.
Preparing the pattern and cutting
Podbot and collar along the contour to redo the cutter on a separate sheet of paper and cut. Then the pattern of podborta to connect with pattern of collar, as shown in Fig. 287.
To prepare the pattern of the piping pocket size 9 x 11 cm and round off the bottom corners.
For cutting the pattern to cut the front of the Basque line and the line side.
Fold the fabric in half in shared direction. Put the middle of the back to the fold of the fabric, and the middle of the front to the edges. The yoke cut with burlap. Other details to put, as shown in Fig. 287, andto cut.
Tailoring
Processing podkralas the facing the line of the pocket; stitch to the finishing line at a distance of 1 cm fromregion. Front of jacket to put on the yoke of the line style and pristroit from pocket to the armhole and the zipper. From the inside to pristroit burlap to podkralas the facing of the pocket.
Tabs sweep, sew, turn on the front side and to iron. Sweep loop and put tabs to the side cut of the front hem of the jacket.
Sew side and shoulder seams; resuturing and handle seams. Hem bottom of jacket.
Podvorotni tack and pritchet to the line of the neck. Podbot, cut with a collar, pritchet to the Board and to podvorotnya. Processing and vacate sleeves.
Through the middle of the front to postpone 11 cm - the first loop. All the following loop outline at a distance of 10 cm from one another.
Sweep loops and sew on buttons. The back and bottom of the sleeve to collect the gum. Sew buttons to tabs.
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