LINGERIE 

For the manufacture of women's underwear is recommended good washable fabrics: cotton, staple, and silk, a variety of bright colours, smooth or with a small figure.
Linen can be finished with stitching, lace, embroidery, ruffle trim, wood stains, etc.
In this section, drawings of the pattern (construction), the cutting and sewing of the three types of lingerie: babydolls, bra and petticoats.

BABYDOLL
 

In Fig. 21 depicts a nightgown with a yoke and a large neckline; front and back under the yoke Assembly. The bottom of the chemise decorated with frill. Cap sleeves, cinched bottom and cuffs. The fabric consumption for the average size of 3.5 m with a width of 80 cm
The drawing of patterns nightgowns taken the following measurements (in cm):
The semicircle of the neck......................... 18
"breast . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Hand circumference above the elbow............. 32
Length chemise with frill ....... 120
"sleeve ........................... 13

Construction drawing of the back and front
 

Drawing patterns back and front nightgowns can be done in the following way.
On a sheet of paper to make a rectangle АА1НН, (Fig. 22, a).
The vertical sides of the rectangle equal to the length of the shirt minus the width of the ruffles: an = А1Н1 = 120 - 20 = 100 cm.
The horizontal side of the rectangle is equal to half of the semicircle of the breast plus 3 cm (loose fit for all sizes) plus 6 cm (the increase for assemblies): AA1 = НН1 = (48 : 2) + 3 + 6 = 33 see
Line the depth of the armhole. From point A to defer down the vertical depth of the openings is half of the semicircle of the breast, and put an end to G: AG = 48 : 2 = 24 see
From point G to hold right horizontal line parallel to AA1, and the intersection with the vertical to put the point G1. Video ГГ1 will be the line of armhole depth.
The length of the bottom seam of the sleeve. From point G to defer up vertically and 4 cm from this point spend a horizontal line to the left equal to the sleeve length, or 5 cm Points 5 and G to connect a smooth line, as shown in the drawing.
Line the bottom of the sleeves. From the point And continue a horizontal line to the left by 6 cm. Connect the dots 5 6 and the construction line, pick it up 3 cm to Divide a line in half, and from the points of division to postpone 1 cm to the left of the Connecting point 3, 1 and 5 smooth line, get the line of the bottom of the sleeves.
The length of the top seam of the sleeve. From point b to defer to the right on a horizontal line the length of the sleeves 13 cm.
Points 12 and 13 to connect with a straight line.
Line terminations yoke on the back of the shirt. From the point G1 to defer up vertically 12 see Points 12 and 13 to connect the auxiliary line. This line is divided into three parts. From the left of the dividing point to defer down at a right angle are 4 cm, right - 3 cm. Join the dots 13, 4, 3, 12 smooth line.
The line terminations of the yoke on the front of the shirt. From point 12 to defer down vertically 4.5 cm From the left of the dividing point (auxiliary line) to defer down the perpendicular 6 cm, and from the right - 7 see Connect the dots 13; 6; 7; 4,5 a smooth line.
Line the side seam. From point N to continue a horizontal line to the left by 6 cm; the points b and G to connect with a straight line.
Line terminations ruffles. Side of the rectangle НН1 split in half. From point b postpone up to 1,5 cm 1,5 Point to connect with the breaking point and continue the line to the point H1. Get a line terminations ruffles on the back of the shirt.
From the point H1 to continue the vertical line down to 2 cm From point 2 to hold left НН1 parallel to the straight length of 15 - 20 cm, which is connected to point 1 5 a smooth line. Get a line terminations ruffles on the front of the shirt.
  Construction drawing of yoke for the back
To construct a right angle with an arbitrary length of the sides; the vertex of the angle to denote a point In (Fig. 22, b).
The line of the neck. From a point to defer to the left horizontal distance equal to one third of measurements of the semicircle neck plus 7 cm, and put the point B1: BB1 = 18: 3 + 7 = 13 cm.
From point b to delay down vertically a distance equal to the measure of the semicircle neck minus 1.5 cm, and put an end B2: BB2 = 18 : 3 - 1,5 = 4,5 cm
Points B1 and B2 to connect the auxiliary line and to divide it into three parts. From the right point of division to postpone the down right angle of 1.5 cm, and from the left of the dividing point - 2 see Connect the dots B1, 2, 1.5, and B2 is a smooth line - the line of the neck.
The width of the yoke. From point B2 to defer down the vertical width of the yoke 6 cm from the point B1 to the left horizontally is also 6 see, Both points are used to connect a smooth line parallel to the neckline.
Shoulder line. From point b (horizontal) to defer down 1.5 cm; points 1,5; V1 connecting with a straight line.
  Construction drawing of yoke for the front
To construct a right angle with an arbitrary length of the sides; the vertex of the angle to denote a point In (Fig. 22).
The line of the neck. From a point to defer to the left horizontally a distance equal to 1/3 of the measurements of the semicircle neck plus 7 cm, and put the point B1: BB1 = 18 : 3 + 7 = 13 cm.
From point b to delay vertically downwards a distance equal to 1/3 of the measurements of the semicircle neck plus 3 cm, and put an end B2: BB2 = 18 : 3 + 3 = 9 see
Points B1 and B2 to connect auxiliary line to divide it in half. From the points of division to postpone down at a right angle 2.5 cm. Point B1 is 2.5; B2 connect a smooth line - the line of the neck.
The width of the yoke. To defer from the point B2 to bottom vertically and from the point B1 to the left of the horizontal width of the yoke 6 see Both points b to connect a smooth line parallel to the line of the neck.
Shoulder line. From a point (b on the horizontal) to defer down 1.5 cm; connect the dots 1,5; B1 straight line.
Note. To determine the start of assemblies to put on the shirt, control stamps; to defer from the point 13 at the line terminations of the yoke on the back, 8 cm, and the line terminations of the yoke on the front 12 see Also delay line dress patterns backless coquette point 1.5 - 8 cm, and the line of the pattern yoke of the front is 12 cm, and put control marks. 

Construction drawing cuffs

Build the rectangle ABC (Fig. 22, g). The vertical line of the rectangle is 4 cm:
AB = BG = 4 cm.
Horizontal lines equal measure arm circumference plus 2 cm:
AB = SH = 32 + 2 = 34, see

layout and cutting

Cook separately the patterns of the front and rear halves shirts, two pattern pieces front and back halves of the yoke (lower and upper) and the cuffs.
To calculate the amount of fabric for the frill. To do this, measure the bottom line of the front and rear halves of the pattern shirts, and the resulting length to double. For example, if the width of the bottom of the front and back of the pattern shift is equal to 79 cm, the whole bottom line of shirts will be 79 x 2 = 158 cm.
The frill should be half to two times more than the bottom of the shirt. Thus, the entire frill will be:
158 x 1.5 = 237 cm
Almost necessary when the width of the fabric 80 cm cut three paintings 80х3 = 240 cm length, 22 cm (20 cm width of frill 2 cm allowance for seams). Then the cloth is doubled at the common thread. Lay pattern pieces on fabric with seam 1 cm, as shown in Fig. 23, and cut out of remnants of fabric narrow belt.
 

Tailoring

To note thread control marks on the shirt and the yoke, lay the thread in the middle of the front and in the middle back of the shirt and yoke.
Sew shoulder seams of yoke. To impose a yoke on one another, right sides inside so that shoulder seams coincide. To stitch the neckline at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. To turn the yoke on the front side. To prometti on the edge of the neck.
The upper section of the sleeves sew the double seam.
The line terminations of the yoke to collect on a string two times between the reference marks at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge and 0.5 cm from the laid thread.
Pin pins bottom yoke to the shirt inside out, exactly them at the shoulder seams, control brands, the lines of the middle and evenly distributing the Assembly. Tack and then pricecat the yoke to the shirt at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. Top yoke on the cut bend inside out, covering the line, tack and stitch along the edge.
Sew a double seam on the sides of the shirt.
Sleeve Sorority the same as the line terminations of the yoke. Sew the cuffs and tack them to the sleeves, his cuffs face down on the wrong side of the shirt. To combine side seam of the shirt with the seam of the cuff and flatten the Assembly. To pritchet cuff at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. The other edge of the cuff to bend, tack, covering the stitching, and pristroit on the edge of the sleeve.
Sew all the pieces ruffles on edges. The bottom edge of the ruffles to hem narrow podrobnym seam (see Fig. 19). The upper cut ruffles Sorority the same as the line terminations of the yoke.
 

Bend the bottom of the shirt with the inside on the front side by 0.5 cm, tack the ruffle to the bottom of the shirt (Fig. 24). Remove the frill face on the front side of the shirt, baste and stitch along the edge of the shirt (Fig. 24, b).
Sew the belt and turn it on the front side.