LONG PANTS
In Fig. 288 depicts long pants with bib, with shoulder straps, fastened with buckles. The back is assembled on the elastic band. On the bib pocket with zipper "lightning".
The fabric is thick cotton or wool.
The drawing pattern removed following measurements in inches:
waist Semicircle........... 30
" hip . . . . . . 32
Length trousers ........................... 58
Construction drawing of the front halves of trousers
to Draw a box АНА1Н1 (Fig. 289, a).
A vertical line of equal measure the length of the pants: an = А1Н1 = 58 cm
The horizontal line equal to 1/2 of the semicircle thighs plus 5 cm.: AA1 = НН1=32:2+ 5=21 see
The line width of the step. From point A to postpone to bottom vertically 1/2 semicircle hip plus 2cm and put an end W: AL = 32: 2 + 2 = 18 see
From point W to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put a point SH1.
The knee line. Distance SN split in half and from the point division to defer up vertically 2 cm From point 2 to spend right a horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical.
The waist line. From point And continue up the vertical line at 0.5 cm From the points A1 to defer to the left horizontally 3 cm and put the point T. From point T to postpone up 1 - 2cm (depending on the convexity of the belly) and to put the point T1. Point T1, and 0.5 to connect with a straight line; from a point T1 delay to 1/2 of the semicircle to the left of the waist plus 3 cm on the depth of soft folds minus 1 cm; to put the point T2: Т1Т2 = 30: 2 + 3 - 1 = 17 see
the seam Line of the front (bow). From the point T hold down straight until the intersection with the line of the step and put the point B.
From point B to defer up vertically 3.5 cm This point to connect with point SH1 smooth line.
Width of the bottom of the front halves of trousers. The width of the bottom of the pants 13 see the Front half of the bottom of the pants narrow at 2 cm: 13 - 2 = 11, see
the Line of the rectangle НН1 split in half and the dividing point to the left and right delay by 5.5 cm; to put the points N2 and NC.
Line the side seam. Point H2 and ø to connect a straight line; point W to connect a smooth line with the point T2.
A line step length. Connect the dots D3 and SH1 straight line and the line crossing the knee to put the point K. From point K to defer to the left of 0.5 cm to Hold a smooth line through the points H3; 0,5; SH1.
Line saulugne. From the dividing point on the line НН1 to hold up the line. At the intersection with the waist to put the point T3.
The lines of the folds. From the point T3 to defer right at the waist line depth the first folds 1.5 cm Distance Т2Т3 split in half and from the point dividing the right to postpone the depth of the second folds - 1.5 cm.
Construction drawing of the rear halves of the pants
to Draw a box АНА1Н1 (Fig. 289, b).
A vertical line of equal measure the length of the pants: an = А1Н1 = 58 cm
Horizontal line equal to 1/2 of the semicircle thighs plus 5 cm.: AA1 = НН1 = 32: 2 + 5 = 21 see
The line width of the step. From point A to postpone to bottom vertically 1/2 semicircle hip plus 2cm and put an end W: AL = 32 : 2 + 2 = 18 see
From point W to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put a point SH1.
The knee line. Distance SN split in half and from the point division to defer up vertically 2 cm From point 2 to spend right a horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical.
The waist line. Horizontal line НН1 split in half; from the points of division to hold up the vertical line and continuing it over the line AA1 2 cm to put the point T4.
From point A1 to continue to the right horizontal a line of arbitrary length. From the point T4 to postpone the right to continue a horizontal line 1/2 of the semicircle of the waist, to put the point T5, Т4Т5 = 30: 2 = 15 cm
to Continue the line Т5Т4 to the left by 5 cm, to put the point T6.
Width of the bottom of the rear halves of the pants. The rear half of the pants extend 2 cm: 13 + 2 = 15 cm.
From the dividing point on the line of the bottom of the pants to be postponed left and right by 7.5 cm and put the points N4 and N5.
Line the side seam. Point N5 and T5 to connect a straight line and keep it at 0.5 cm above the waist line. To continue the line of the knee right until the intersection with the line Н5Т5 and put an end K1. From the point K1 to postpone 1 cm left to Hold the line of the side seam through points H5; 1; T5; 0,5.
The extension of the pants line width of the step. From point W to postpone to the left horizontally 1 cm and 1/5 of the semicircle of the hips; to dot B1, B2: Б1Б2 = 32: 5 = 6.4 cm
A line step length. The point H4 to connect the straight line with the point B2. The line of the knee to continue left to the intersection with the line Б2Н4 and put an end K2. From point K2 to defer to the right 3 cm and the point B2 3 and to connect the auxiliary line. Divide it in half, and from the points of division to defer to the right 0.5 cm. To connect a smooth line point B2; 0.5 and 3, and a straight line of points 3 andH4. Get a line step length.
Measure the length of the line Н3Ш1 in Fig. 289 and put it from the point H4 (Fig. 289, b) for the step length and to put the point B3.
Line the back seam of the pants. From the point W to defer up 1 see Points 1 and T6 to connect the auxiliary line; to divide a line into three equal parts. To connect a smooth line points B3, B1, 1, the points of division, as shown in the drawing.
Clarification line waist. Points 0.5 and T6 connect by a straight line. On the rear half of the pants from waist line to delay up to 3 cm (for freezing gum); point 3 to connect with a straight line.
Construction drawing of the bib
The front side of the bib consists of two parts. To build these of parts (Fig. 289, C) to construct a square whose sides AA1 and НН1 equal 1B see
From point A to defer to the right horizontally, see Point 3 N connect the auxiliary straight line from point 3 to continue upward for a horizontal line 2 cm and put an end A2. Points A2 and A1 to connect with a smooth curve. From point N to defer up subsidiary lines 2 cm, to connect points 2 and H1 a smooth line.
Line pocket. From the points A1 and A2 to defer down to 5 cm and 5 both point to connect a smooth line.
P R I m e h a n and E.This way the drawing pants can use in the construction of trousers for boys olderage. Trousers can be without the breastplate, the belt, but the calculation of the line waist must perform as follows for short pants.
Prepare a pattern, layout and cutting
Pattern of the lining fabric to cut along the contour of the front side A1 A2 D1 2 A2 (see Fig. 289, b).
The pattern of the front side of the breastplate to cut the line of the pocket and put the part numbers. To prepare the pattern of the straps.
The length of the straps adopted for the measurement of the figure, in this case, length 47 cm plus 2 cm for the Cape. The width of the straps 4 cm to Prepare straps for buckle size 4 X 4 cm and the rear halves of the pants (rubbers) the length of the waist (14 + 7) 2 = 42 cm, width 3 cm.
To prepare the pattern and fly accosca in the form of rectangles. A vertical line equal to the length of the clasp 16 a + 3.5 = 19.5 cm; horizontal line 2.5 cm
to the Side of the codpiece to make the line the front seam of the pants T1 3.5 and up to the points of division on lines 3,5Ш1 (see Fig. 289, a).
Fold the fabric in half in the joint direction (Fig. 290). The middle of the part number 2 and the lining put to the bend of the fabric. Item No. 1 in expanded form cut from the top layer of fabric. Strap under the elastic band bridging. The rest details of the trousers to assume, as shown in Fig. 290.
Tailoring
Pants made of wool fabric subject to minor damp-heat processing line the back seam of the pants. The rear halves of the pants should be folded face and at the same time on the two halves of the pants to make a sling for line the back seam between the points B3 and the point of division (Fig. 289, b).
For sewing of trousers to outline the middle of the lining and the upper parts bib. Put stamps on the line of the knee anterior and posterior halves trousers and codpiece.
Baste and sew the side and step sections, while maintaining the brand through the knee. Seams to resaturate on two sides. The bottom of the pants to bend by 3 cm, sew the seam and iron.
Tack face Podkayne the facing of the pants or lining on the front side of the bow on the left side of the pants and pristroit to mark the fly. Turn the facing to inside, tack and stitch on the edge of the bow from the front side to the brand (Fig. 291, a).
Sweep the front side of the fly facing podkralas piping. To stitch along the line of the concave cut of a fly. Podkayne obtachku fold inside out and stitch along the edge with the front of the codpiece (Fig. 291, b).
To sweep three loops in an oblique direction.
Tack the fly facing to podkralas facing the bow a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the edge of the bow and pristroit from the front side trousers at a distance of 2.5 cm from the edge. To put a bar tack between the loops.
To put a face with a face two parts to accosca, baste and stitch at the oval the cut-off.
To make a concave cut front side accosca to the front side line front the cut the right side of the pants and pristroit to brand. Seam fold in the side folds of the pants. The bottom side Odeska put on the seam and pristroit finishing stitching on the front side Atkascha line its terminations and along the edge of the oval side (Fig. 291, C), to iron.
Baste and sew the back seam line of the trousers to brand the fly, combining the stepper seams. To resaturate seam.
Baste and sew the folds with a length of 3 to 4 cm from the waist line to press in the side seam from the inside of the pants. To put a bow on otcasek, combining the edge of the bow with the seam pristrozhki Odeska, tack. At the bottom of the bow to put the fitting, fastening bow with otrokom.
Baste and stitch the straps for straps and buckles. Remove the straps and the straps on the front side, to iron. The sides of the shoulder straps defer with facial side at a distance of 1 cm from the edge.
The bar under the rubber band sew, to resaturate, tack on the front side and pristroit. Under the bar the waist line in tack and pristroit straps at a distance of 4.5 cm from the the back seam of the pants. Straps to bend to the edge of the top line of the pants and to reinforce the seam to the strap.
Sew the bib (see Fig. 289, C) put and pristroit on the front side to the part No. 2 (to line of pocket) cross-beyka (width 1.5 cm, length - width the breastplate). To bake inside out fold under the seam allowance line pocket so that the edge of the strap was in the edge bending.
Allowance for seam details No. 1 bend inside out and tack. On "lightning" to make items # 1 and # 2, combining lines pockets; tack. To pristroit detail No. 2 bib finishing line at a distance of 1 cm from the edge, not destrucive 1 cm to the lines of the side sections. Then baste and sew with three sides of the upper part of the bib is lined, investing between lining and bib straps with buckles.
Remove the bib on the front side and to iron. Part No. 1 bib to pristroit such same finishing line from the zipper to the lining, not destrucive 1 cm to the side lines. Lining to pristroit from the back to the front of the trousers, combining the line of mid front and sides. The seam bend to the side bib. The lower section of the bib bend and pristroit on the edge.
To stitch bib with the front side of the finishing line.
Waist to tie the bodice and on the ends to secure it on the side-lines of the breastplate.
To iron dress pants through the thin wet fabric, folded them, combining side and stepping seams.
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