Processing and production of collars

In the processing of the collar and podvorotni any shape and size necessary to shear off inside out and sweep, propositiva in the corners so that the collar freely unbent and the corners of his did not rise. Sew the collar by hand podvorotnya. To avoid thickening in the corners, it is necessary to cut off the excess the cloth from the inside. Then remove the collar on the front side, straighten the corners and to prometti edge transition 0.1 cm in the direction podvorotnya. The rounded collar fit to do the rounded sections of the collar. Ready collar priotity side podvorotnya.
Umatyvaet and stachivaya collars in the following manner. 
The collar adjacent to the neck. Through the middle of the front of the neck make the notch to the snares. The upper section (Fig. 165) from the notch to bend inwards and to sew a hidden seam. Mid podvorotnyapin to the middle of the back, the ends of podvorotnya to the middle of the front. Podvorotni tack and pristroit. Collar bend and sew hidden seam by machine stitching.

Turn-down collar with rim. Mid podvorotnya pin to the middle of the back, the ends podvorotnya to natcect at the front of the product. Tack the collar and podvorotni from the notch to the shoulder seams. From the shoulder seams to the back tack only podvorotni (Fig. 166, a). Remove the Board from the inside on front side, cover them tacked on the collar to the shoulder seam. Shoulder cut podborta bend 0.5 cm inside out. Tack podbot to the collar. Thus, the collar stachivaya between the product and padbottom (Fig. 166, b). To pristroit collar from bending side tothe shoulder seams and then podvorotni to sprout. In the shoulder seams to do the notch to the stitching, and the seam on the back to turn on podvorotni. Remove the Board inside out and attach the seam to the shoulder seams. Collar sew back along the seam.
Turn-down collar round. Collar and podvorotni tack and pritchet to the product together with bias binding (width of borders in a cut of 2 cm). Bake remove the covering it seam pritochki collar, tuck and sew to the product of a hidden seam. 
Collar. Collar tack to the underside of the product, exactly the middle of the collar to the middle of the back, and the ends of the collar fold side, and wrote on the collar. Podvorotni bend to cover them line, tack and pristroit on the edge on the front side.
Shift collar. Sew the seams of the collar and podbora the middle backless. Tack and pritchet collar to the back, exactly the seam of the collar the middle of the back. To make the notch in the corners to the shoulder seam. Podbot to put a face on the front side of the product, tack and to pristroit on the edge. Remove podbot on the underside of the product. To cover up for the edge roll over to the side of the collar, priotity. The edge of the bend, tack and sew the seam to the stitching of the collar on the back. 
The shoulder sections of podborta bend and sew a hidden seam to the shoulder seams of the product.

Treatment of neck, collarless 

Neckline, collarless stitch a strip of fabric products.
The facing of the neck should be cut on the same thread direction, which tailored product. With the slight misalignment of threads in the facing line of the neck of the product is wrong.
For right podkraj piping neck should rip the basting on shoulder seam to enclose a sheet of paper under the neck separately to the back and the front. To chop the pins, the fabric does not move, then a pencil or a cutter cut around the outline of the neck and shoulder seam. To identify the direction of grain lines. Then remove the pins and pattern paper the back and front. From the contour of the neck to measure the widthpiping 4 - 5 cm Cut a pattern piping at the plotted lines. 
Apply the pattern to the fabric according to the planned common thread and cut.
Cut the facing pinned on the neck of the product, combining the mid the backrests of the front line and shoulder seams. Tack, sweep the line of the shoulder seams on the facing, sew them, spread on two sides. Then piping to pristroit to the neckline at 0.5 cm from the edge. Gently straighten the seam, to turn the facing inside out and prometti on the edge.
To resaturate the seam is impossible, as it will deteriorate not only the shape of the neck, but the quality of the processing. The free lower edge of the piping necessary to bend inside out to stitch, ironed and attached in several places to the product quickly. Treated neck lightly ironed. 
In the same way cut out and other piping to handle the sleeves, pockets, collar, etc. 

Processing and production of sleeves

When processing sleeves with cuffed cuffs must first sweep to fit the upper side, and sew from pacmangame. That was not thickening in the corners, it is necessary to cut all the excess fabric inside out, turn out, spread and sweep along the edge of the roll over 0.1 cm in the direction podmenili. Priotity from pacmangame.
Cuffs with snap closure. Line the bottom of the sleeves from the elbow to the opposite side, measure down 1.5 cm and deletede the notch to snares. Of the sleeve between the hem nasecki hidden seam narrow hem. The rest of the bottom of the sleeve to collect on two lines. Bluu part of the Assembly to distribute at an elbow line. Cuff applied to the front side of the sleeve from notch to notch, to level Assembly, tack and pristroit to the sleeve. Pacmangame from the inside bend and sew a hidden seam by machine stitching.
Cuff without fasteners. Seam cuff sew and resuturing. The bottom of the sleeve to collect on two lines. Attach the cuff to the sleeve the face to the wrong side sleeves. Tack and pristroit from the assemblies. Then the cuff to turn, bend region, to tack so as to close the engine line, and pristroit on the front side. You can use another method: hose to attach to the cuff, pristroit and pull it inside out; then bend the edge and sew a hidden seam stitching.
Cuff with the lapel. Cuffs to put on the sleeves and sew together with a scythe Bay coy. Bake to turn inside out, bend and sew a hidden seam to sleeve.

Lapel hem on short sleeve. The lower section of the short sleeves to bend 0.5 cm inside out. From bendmeasure 4 - 5 cm, again bend, tack and sew a hidden seam or to stitch around the edge (Fig. 167, a). Remove the box pleat on the the front side (Fig. 167, b) so that the seam coincided with the middle of the bow (Fig. 1б7, in). Attach to the seam of the bow and priotity.

The sling is narrow and double seam sleeves. For proper fit and narrow double seam of the sleeves, as well as to give the sleeve the desired shape of the front the end of the sleeve should always be drawn with iron (Fig. 168). Both sleeves you can pull at the same time to cut the snare.
The middle front-cut sleeves to moisturize and degree which delay to give the sleeve the desired shape. 
The rear section of sleeve to collect on a thread and sucurity or lay soft folds in the form of Darts. You can zastrochit and tuck.
Matiwane and setting a sleeve. To bend armhole in half so that bend got on the shoulder seam. On the bend of the bottom openings to supply the control brand. Highest point of the crown of the sleeve pin to the shoulder seam, and the seam sleeves to make the arm openings. The fit of the sleeves to distribute mainly at the the top of the crown. To votate and vacate the sleeve in the armhole from the side sleeves. Edging the edges of the openings and sleeves through to neaten the edge and press in sleeves side or on an edge.

Processing gussets cap sleeves. When cutting gussets on all sides to allow on the seam for 2cm, of which 1 cm to cover the front side on wrong. On bodice back and front from podreza the gusset at a distance of 1 cm to make a thread. After fitting, when Stacey and resutured side and bottom seams sleeves, gussets, pin to pin pin to laid a string of podreza and tack. Then pricecat on the front the side edge (Fig. 169). From a seamy side seam gusset better just to treat looped suture. 

Loop

On various products are made of loops of different types: obecnie, obecnie, rolikovye, cotton and linen. The following is the purpose and fulfillment each of the loops.
Loop obmennye. Used for lingerie and blouses. Loop stitch overcast stitch. On cloth, folded twice, it is necessary to identify the length of the buttonhole is equal to the diameter of the buttons plus 2 - 3 mm; then the cloth is cut. To cut edges of fabric crumbled, it is necessary to pre-neaten rarely over the edge, and then often looped stitch (Fig. 170, a). At the end of the loop to fasten flooring from threads that entwine frequent turns (Fig. 170 b).

You can neaten the loop without cutting the fabric. For this size loop it is necessary to lay two lines at a distance of 0.2 cm from one another (Fig. 171). Then neaten the loop in the usual way, grasping one oflaid threads and both layers of fabric. The end of the loop to fasten the tack and go to buttonhole the other side of the loop. The loop finished be careful not to touching the wrap., cut. If the loop serves as an ornament, it is not cut. 
Loop obecnie. Used on skirts, dresses, jackets and sometimes on blouses if blouse of heavy silk or woolen fabric.
The number of loops and the distance between them depend on the style. Length the loop is also equal to the diameter of the buttons plus 2 - Z mm. Width of Kant depends from tissue thickness and equal to fine wool and silk fabrics 2 - 3 mm. 
to Oblachat loop can be different.

First method. On the front of the unit to identify the thread frame loop (Fig. 172, a). The frame length is equal to the loop length, width 5 - mm. Frame must out of 0.2 cm in the middle of the product to the side edges. 
For piping loop to cut off a strip of cloth (the common thread), equal to the length frame plus 2 - 4 cm; width of the strip (transverse threads) 4 - 5 cm.
Put obtachku on the frame face on the front side of the product and tack (Fig. 172, 6.) Then stitch on the wrong side, following the contour of the frame (Fig. 172,). Cut the loop in the middle frame, notching the corners (Fig. 172, d). Obtachku to turn through the buttonhole inside out. With two sides to release the edges to cover the face and priotity from the inside (Fig. 172, d).
For strength the free edge obtachki again to stitch with the wrong side on the stitching frame. Formed after nasechek corners to attach to the edges. Wrong side loop handle podborta where to make the cut size of the loop, the edges bend inside and frequent sew a hidden seam or over the edge. 
The second method. Lay the thread at a distance of 0.2 cm from the middle of products in the direction of the edge. Of the laid thread to measure the length of the loop and pave in parallel, another thread. Between the two threads to schedule (thread) line the loop (Fig. 173, a).
For piping loops to cut off a strip of cloth, equal to the length of the loop plus 2 - 4 cm (common thread), width 2.5 cm Edging edge piping bend to the middle of the inside and to press. 
Put obtachku the middle of the padded string obraznymi edges up, tack and pristroit 0.3 cm from eachbend along the length of the loop, securing the ends with double stitching (Fig. 173, b). The facing cut in the middle and bottom layers of fabric (Fig. 173). Loop cut from the inside of the product between the lines, making the notch to the ends lines.
To turn the facing inside out through the buttonhole straightening the edges, attach the brackets to the facing. Temporarily bonding the edges thread and priotity (Fig. 173, d). Wrong side loop handle in the same way as was described in the first method of processing loop.
 
Loop of rolica. Cut a strip of cloth 2 cm wide at oblique the thread direction of the fabric. To bend the strip in half face inside and stitch at the distance of 0.3 cm from the fold. At the end of the strip distance from bend line to gradually increase in order to faster to turn rulik on the front side. At the end of the line to leave long thread. Both lines threading the needle and advance it with the blunt end forward inside rolica, then withdraw the needle from the other end rolica (Fig. 174, a), twisting it on the front side (Fig. 174, b).

Rulik ready to be cut into equal parts, tack and sew between the two layers of fabric (Fig. 175). 
Loops of thread (air). The size buttons at the edge of the product to make the loop from 4 to 6 threads (Fig. 176, a) and all threads neaten common looped stitch (Fig. 176, b).

Loop linen. Used for bra, corsets. Linen loops made from strips of fabric. To take an equity strip of cloth width of 2.5 cm (Fig. 177, a). Edge strips to bend towards the middle (Fig. 177, b), to bend the strip in half and stitch along the edge (Fig. 177 in).
Fold striped jotted edges inside (Fig.177, g). On the front side the end of the loop to fasten a clip, from the inside corner to sew the seam (Fig. 177, d). Loop sew under bake. 

Treatment Welt pockets 

To handle pocket strap (leaves) cut a strip of equity fabric size 16 x 9 cm. Fold a strip double the grain lines facial side on the inside. Sew the side, taking in the seam at 0.5 cm from each side, cut corners to turn, priotity and defer with the front side.
Put the bar cuts above the line specified in Fig. 178, a, 0.5 cm below the upper side of the lath lying on thethe front of the unit fold down and tack. To stitch on charting, securing edges with double stitching. 
For the burlap pocket cut lining fabric the common thread size of 22 X 18 cm put above the first line by 0.5 cm, face to the product a large piece up and pristroit 0.5 cm from the edge.
Length the lines should be 14 cm, i.e. 0.5 cm less on each side compared with the first stitching on the strap. Between the lines the pocket to penetrate and to make cuts to the ends of the lines. The burlap through the incision to push inside the product, remove the strap bend up. Apricity edge burlap to attach on the inside of the strap sections and pristroit (without of the product). The sides of the burlap grind down. All of the slices and burlap strap neaten the buttonhole stitch. The edges of the leaves to sew a hidden seam on the front side of the product (Fig. 178, b). 

The production of "lightning"

Fasteners for skirts and dresses used "lightning" in length 15 - 25 cm stachivaya into the left side seam of the bodice and skirt. Side seam length "lightning" is left unsewn.
The zipper on the reverse the side of the slicer to chop the pins (Fig. 179, a), then the front side tack. When getting a "lightning" must be kept in the tense and to ensure that the fabric not stretched and both of the fold of tissue connected. Then defer the clasp on the front side of the product (Fig. 179, b) at a distance of 0.5 - 1 cm from the bend to the "zipper" easily opened. On a thin tissue of "lightning" sew manual way small stitches "needle."
Strap "lightning" should strictly match the color of the fabric product. With reverse side seams neaten (see Fig. 179, a). 

Corner treatment 

Often the line style have the corners that need to be processed. Take for example, the bodice of a striped fabric with cap collar (see Fig. 122).

For processing the corners of the front bodice it is necessary to otkroite corners of the fabric. First, the pattern of the bodice outline angles 1 and 2 (Fig. 180). Podchaynov width equal to the width of the areatopstitching plus 1.5 cm for seams. The parts to cut out of the fabric on the same the direction of the thread that product. Tack the corners of the face to the front side of the bodice (Fig. 181). To stitch on the wrong side of the bodice, in the corners make the notch to line and remove Podkayne corners on the wrong side bodice. Sweep around the edge of the neckline and priotity (Fig. 182), and then apply the bodice insert, making sure that the line of mid front on the insert, and the bodice match.

Handle the bottom of dresses and skirts 

Ways of handling Reese dresses and skirts depend on a range of fabrics. 
From thin fabrics the hem of the dress or skirt to bend at the width planned when cutting or after fitting, sweep (Fig. 183, a) and hem hidden seam. 
Velvet and dense tissue but difficult to spill and hem sweep without bending the top edge (Fig. 183, b) and to process the slice cruciate suture.
Of fabrics especially heavy and loose cut of the ACC to turn over piping (Fig. 183, b), ironed, sweep ACC to set the width and sew a hidden seam. The bottom products these tissues can be processed and braid. One side of the braid to pristroit to the edge of the cut, and the other to sew over the edge (Fig. 183, d) with small stitches. 

Processing skirts waist 

Skirt waist is treated with a belt or corsage is a special grosgrain ribbon. Various methods of treatment. 
  The first method (without corsage). The belt for skirt cut from the same fabric as the skirt, the common thread. Width the belt cut into 6 - 8cm. belt Length is equal to waist circumference plus 4 - 5 cm. The belt must be pristroit on the front side, to turn inside out and hem often over the edge or the seam. End of the upper side of the belt can arrange mysyk. For belt buckles to sew on two hooks and two loops iron or of thread. 
  The second method. After fitting process the bodice to the skirt. Hand corsage bend 2 cm and defer on the edge of the bend. On the one hand to sew two hooks and the other two loops (Fig. 184, a). Then bend the corsage in half shared direction and common to sew stitches over the edge of the line terminations hooks and loops (Fig. 184, b). To turn over the bodice with bias binding and priotity. To the waist line of the skirt from the inside to tack the braid or edge (Fig. 184, b), remove the inside cut edge of the skirt (Fig. 184, d); defer from the front side by 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the edge. Might as well put a skirt oncorsage for the scheduled fitting brands. Tack and sew the corsage with wrong side hidden seam (Fig. 184, d).

  The third way. On the front side of the skirt tack strip of fabric prepared for belt, so that 3 - 4cm of fabric passed over the fastener (Fig. 185, a). From top to put a corsage, tack (Fig. 185, b) and pristroit allalong with the inside waist. To go around the waist corsage. The free edge belt to tuck and sew the seam from the inside to the line. On mysik corsage sew on hook and puncture through the fabric output head the hook. Edge mysyk tuck inside out, cut off the excess fabric around mysyk bodice and sew a hidden seam (Fig. 185 in). 
  The fourth way. Corsage to attach to the underside of the snare laid for the line terminations of the corsage, and tack (Fig. 186, a). Remove the corsage on the front side so that the free edge is located at a distance of 0.5 cm from the snares. Tack and stitch along the edge (Fig. 186, b). Remove corsage inside out (Fig. 186,). Thus, the upper section of the skirt will be located inside the corsage. 
  The fifth method. The finished corsage to be attached to the underside of the skirt, exactly it the top slice. To prepare the bias tape out of satin or lining fabric to handle a corsage of width 2.5 cm

The bias tape put your face on a corsage, all together tack and pristroit skirt along the edge (Fig. 187, a). To turn over the piping seam, removing bake on the front side of the skirt to bend the edge and sew a hidden seam (Fig. 187, b). 
Sew the waistband, turn the front side, sweep and priotity. The belt is to put and attach on top, covering the edges. 
On the belt at mysyk to sew the hook and at the other end to make a loop of thread.
Processing of zipper skirts on the hooks. For processing fasteners to cook two strips the length equal to the length of your clasp plus 2 cm for processing, and wide 6 - 7 cm.
Put the bar facing the snare on the underside of the front cloth skirts. Loosen the edge of the skirt inside out, to cover up so that the edge strips located in the bend, and to stitch on the front side at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge. Priotity and then sew to the stitching from the inside of the hooks (Fig. 188, a). The free edge strap on bent 0.5 cm inside out, to bring under hooks and hem hidden seam (Fig. 188, b). The rear cloth skirts to make nadziejko up lines in order that the upper part of the seam near the zipper wasturn towards the front cloth. To impose the bar frontside on the front side of the skirt, exactly on the edges, and stitch at 0,5 cm from the edge (Fig. 189, a). The seam to flatten on two sides. To measure 1.5 cm from the seam; the rest of the strap to bend inside out and stitch next to the seam. The free end of the strap to bend 0.5 cm and stitch on the edge (Fig. 189, b). For hooks to make a loop of thread.