SHIFT DRESS WAIST
 

In Fig. 94 depicts a full-cut dress at the waist. Deviation dress, the hem flared. Vtachnoy sleeve, 3/4. The collar cap, the clasp on two buttons. The fabric is lightweight wool, thick silk or thick cotton. Consumption of fabric for average size of 2.9 m and a width of 140 cm

the lines of the design and preparation of patterns
 

To prepare a main pattern semi-fitted dresses and tight sleeves. The pattern to apply a line style.
Back. The left side of the tuck to continue up to the shoulder line (Fig. 95, a). From the bottom tuck end draw a vertical line to the bottom of the dress. The line of the side seam to move left 2 cm to Remove the sprout 1 cm at the shoulder line. To remove the fit at the shoulder seam.
Before. From the mouth (Fig. 95, b) at the top of the shoulder to defer the cut off shoulder backless from Rostock (see Fig. 95, a) to the line of cut and this point is connect by a straight line with the right side of the first tuck on the waist line (see Fig. 95, b). The left part of the shoulder to reduce as much as increased cut right shoulder. The right side of the second tuck to continue to the openings. From the ends of the Darts draw a vertical line to the bottom of the dress. The line of the side seam to move to the left by 2 cm.
From the neck down the middle of the front to delay down 24 see point 24 and from the neck to the right to postpone 2 cm for the clasp. Both points 2 are connected by a straight line. Outline two loops: the first 2 cm above the point 24, the second at a distance of 4 cm from the first loop.
Line the bottom of the dress continue to the right 2 cm and connect the dots 2 and 24 in a straight line.
To build the shift collar from the neck on the shoulder to postpone 1 see point 1 draw a line: down - to the level of the upper loop, up and equal to the length of the germ, in this drawing, 9 cm From point 9 at a right angle a straight line is equal to 8 cm From point 8 perpendicular to this line draw a line 25 cm in length From point 25 to draw a line at a right angle to the intersection with a vertical line to the clasp. The resulting intersection point and a point b to connect a smooth line.
Outline with a dotted line podbor, as shown in Fig. 95 b.
Sleeve. On the main pattern sleeve to postpone the length of his cut - 47 see
The training patterns. The pattern to be cut along the intended cutting lines. Tuck cut. Cut off the extra part of the pattern.

Layout and cutting
 

The fabric is folded in half, fold the common thread. All the parts spread out on the planned common thread, adding fabric for braces in every detail to 9 cm (Fig. 96).

Fitting and tailoring

After trying on all the slices of the dress sew a simple seam, neaten the seams in the two layers and ironed.
This style dress should be tightened at the waist. For this we need to the waist line of the dress from the wrong side sew the edge, which propositi (2 cm) detail № 2, № 4 and № b (see Fig. 95). To pritchet collar and podbora. To vacate sleeves.
To oblachat two loops and sew on buttons. To iron dress.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING OF THE MAIN PATTERN SURROUNDING DRESSES

In the drawing the main pattern surrounding the dress taken the following measurements (in cm):
The semicircle of the neck......................... 18
"breast . . . . . . . . . . . 48
"waist ..................... 38
"hip . . . . . . . . . . .52
The width of the back (reference measurement)....18
Length " to the waist ................. 38
"dresses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...108
Height 6юста .................................. 32,5
Front length to waist (test measure) 51
Shoulder length...................................... 13
Allowance for free customized fit when you build drawing of the main pattern surrounding the dress is (in cm):
Line the circumference of the chest.......... 2
"waist.......... 1
"" hip . . . . . 2

the plan
 

Draw a rectangle АА1НН1 (Fig. 97).
A vertical line of equal measure the length of the dress: an = А1Н1 = 108 cm
The horizontal line is equal to the semicircle of the breast plus 2cm for loose fit: AA1 = НН1 = 48 + 2 = 50 cm.
The depth of the armhole. From point A to defer down the line to the middle of the back a distance equal to 1/3 of the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm, and put an end to G: AG = 48: 3 + 4 = 20 cm.
Line the circumference of the chest. From point G to the right a horizontal line to the intersection with a line
the middle of the front and put the point G1.
The waist line. From point A to postpone upside down measure the length of the back to the waist and put the end T: at = 38 cm
From point T to hold right horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical А1Н1 and put the point T1.
Line of the hips. From point T to postpone down vertically 18 cm and place the point B: TB = 18 cm.
From point B to hold right horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical А1Н1 and put the point B1.
The width of the back. From point G to defer to the right of the line of circumference of the chest width of the back is about 1/3 of the semicircle of the breast plus 2 cm, and put an end G2: ГГ2 = 48: 3 + 2 = 18 cm
The width of the back calculation to verify the control measure.
If the calculated measurement of the width of the back does not coincide with the removed control measure, to make corrections.
From a point G2 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal AA1 and put an end A2. Line А2Г2 divided into four equal parts.
The width of the openings. From a point G2 to defer to the right of the line of circumference of the chest width of the armholes, equal to 1/4 of the semicircle of the breast minus 1 cm, and put an end G3: Г2Г3 = 48: 4 - 1 = 11 cm.
From point G3 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal and to put an end A3.
Auxiliary line side. From a point G2 to defer to the right 1/3 of the width of the armhole and put an end G4: Г2Г4=11:3=3.7 cm.
Through the point G4 to make a vertical line: up to 0.5 cm, down to the intersection with the horizontal line of the bottom of the dress. At the intersection with the waist to put a point T2 with the line of hip point B2, with a bottom line point of H2.

Construction drawing of the back

The width of the blade. From point A to defer to the right width, Rostock, equal to 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm and put in point a is: AA=18:3+0.5=6.5 cm
Height. From point a to defer up to 2 cm, to put the point A1. From point A1 to defer up another 0.5 cm and from this point to hold a smooth line Rostock to point A.
Shoulder line. For slope of shoulder from the point A2 to postpone 2 cm down From point A1 to hold right through the point 2 and a straight line equal to the shoulder length plus 1.5 cm, and put a point P: а1П = 13 at + 1.5 = 14.5 cm.
Line а1П divided into three parts. Connect the dots is 0.5, the left point of division and P a smooth curve, get the shoulder line.
Line openings. From point G2 to draw a line that divides a right angle in half, equal to 1/4 the width of the openings: 11: 4 = 3 cm.
The line of openings to hold a smooth line from point P, tangent to the lines А2Г2, and through the points 3 and 0.5.
Line the side seam. Line of the side seam has a tuck at the waist and seam allowance at the hips. To dress nice fit figure, it is necessary to calculate the depth of the tucks at the waist and seam allowance at the hips.
Below are the calculations Darts and seam allowance for the back and front.
To calculate the depth of the Darts at the waist line it is necessary to find the difference between the width of the dress and the semicircle waist with allowance for free customized fit: 50 - (38 + 1) = 11 see
We found the difference to subtract the depth (2 cm) second front tuck and the remainder divided into three: (11 - 2): 3 = 3 see
The depth of the side tuck - 3 cm.
The depth of the tuck on the back - 3 cm.
Depth first, front tuck,- 3 cm.
To calculate the width at the hip line it is necessary to find the difference between the size of the semicircle hips, with allowance for free customized fit, and wide dresses. (52 + 2) - 50 = 4 see
The resulting difference of 1/3, i.e., 1.4 cm, attributed to the extension of the back at the hip line, and 2/3, i.e. 2.6 cm - the extension of the front at the hip line.
For building line of the side seam on the calculation of delay from the point T2 to the left 1.5 cm (half the depth of tuck), from the point B2 to the right and 1.4 cm from the point H2 - 5 cm.
Points 5 and 1.4 connect with a straight line, continuing it on 9 see Connect the dots 9 and 1.5 smooth line and the points 1.5 and 0.5 - line.
Line the bottom of the dress. From the point 1.5 to the waist line to delay down the length of the side seam 70 cm - the difference between the length of the dress is 108 cm and the length of the back 38, see Point 70 to connect a smooth line with the line of the bottom of the dress.
A tuck at the back to build out how .shown in the drawing (see Fig. 97).

Construction drawing of the front

Length of the front. From the point G1 to defer up vertically a distance equal to 1/2 of the semicircle of the breast plus 0.5 cm and put an end to: Г1В = 48: 2 x 0.5 = 24.5 cm.
From point T1 to postpone down 1 cm Distance from point V to point 1 will be the length of the front bodice.
Width of the neck. From point b to hold the left horizontal line with a length of 12 - 15 cm From a point on this line to defer the width of the neck equal to the width of Rostock, and put the point B1: BB1 = AA = 6.5 cm.
The depth of the neck. From point b to delay down 1/3 of the semicircle of the neck plus 1.5 cm and put an end B2: BB2 = 18: 3 + 1.5 = 7.5 cm.
From the point In to draw a line that divides a right angle in half, equal to segment BB1 (6.5 cm) plus 0.5 cm and put an end B3. Points B1 B3 B2 connect a smooth line - the line of the neck.
Length shoulder to tuck. To defer from the point B1 to the left of 4 cm; from point 4 down 1 cm and points 1 and B1 connect.
Breast tuck. From the point G1 to postpone the left is 9.5 cm, i.e. a distance equal to the width of the neck 4 cm minus 1 cm, and put an end G5: Г1Г5 =6,5+4 - 1 = 9.5 cm.
Points 1 and G5 to connect a straight line.
Point 4 to connect the auxiliary line with the upper point of division on the line А2Г2. The width of the armhole split in half and the dividing point up to hold the auxiliary line to the intersection with the auxiliary inclined and supply point P1. From the point P1 to defer to the right on the auxiliary line, the rest of the shoulder length 9 cm.
From the point G5 to hold up through the 9 point a straight line equal to the right side of the tuck, and put the point P2: P2 G5 = G5 1
Length from shoulder Darts to the armhole. From the point P1 to delay down 3 cm, point 3 and P2 connecting a straight line. From the point P2 by a line drawn to postpone 9 cm and put the point P3.
Line of the armhole of the front. From the point G3 to defer up 1/4 line А3Г3 and to put a point On that connecting point P3. This line is split in half and the right to postpone 1 cm From point G3 to draw a line that divides a right angle in half, equal to 2.5 cm to the Left from point G3 to delay period equal to Г3О, and to put the point O1. The line of openings to hold a concave line through the points P3; 1;; 2,5; O1; 0.5 in.
Line the side seam. To defer from the point T2 to the right 1.5 cm (half the depth of the side tuck), from the point B2 to the left 2.6 cm (the seam allowance at the hip line) from the point H2 to the left to expand the bottom of the dress - 6 see Point b and 2 b to connect a straight line, continuing it up to 9 cm. Connect the dots 9 and 1.5 smooth line and 1.5 and 0.5 - line. From the waist line by a line drawn to defer the skirt length of the back 70 cm Line connecting points of 70; 2,b; 9; 1,5; 0,5, will be the line of the side seam of the front.
Clarifying the waist line. From point 1 to hold a smooth line to a point 1.5 to the waist line of the front at the side seam.
Clarification to the hips. From point B1 to postpone down 1 cm, point 1 connected to point 2 b.
The bottom line is. From the point H1 to postpone down 1 cm point 1 to connect a smooth line with point 70.
Darts at the waist line in the front to construct as shown on the drawing (see Fig. 97).