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Home » Articles » Women's and children's dress

Shirts,jackets and trousers for the boys/lower chemise/Shirt plaid

SHIRTS, JACKETS AND PANTS FOR BOYS 

IN this section set forth the manufacture of some types and styles of garments for boys in ages 3 to 12 years. Unlike the previous sections, the construction drawing basic patterns and drawing lines style considered together, not separately. 

BOTTOM CHEMISE 

The lower apron (Fig. 265) sewn from linen fabric (madapolam, calico, fabric, chiffon). Chemise edging trim, braid, embroidery on the neckline the neck and cuffs. 
The drawing pattern shirts for boy of 3 to 5 years taken the following measurements in inches:
The semicircle of the neck............ . 13,5 
" breast ........... 30 
Length of shirts.........................50 
" shoulder........................... 9,5 
sleeves ........................ 35 

Construction drawing of the back 

Draw a rectangle АНВН1 (Fig. 266, a). 
A vertical line of equal measure the length of the shirt: an = ВН1 = 50 cm 
Horizontal line equal to the semicircle of the breast plus 9 cm for loose fit: AV = НН1 = 30 + 9 = 39 cm.
The depth of the armhole. From point A to postpone vertically 1/3полуокружности chest plus 6 cm and place the point of G: AG = 30: 3 + 6 = 16 see 
the line of the circumference of the chest. From point G to spend right a horizontal line to the intersection with a vertical line and put point G1.
Line the side seam. Line the circumference of the chest to divide in half and put a point G2. From a point G2 to hold down vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line and put a point of H2. Line side seam slit length 6 cm 
Width of the openings. The width of the openings is 1/4 of the semicircle of the breast plus 2 inches: 30: 4 + 2 = 9.5 cm.
From a point G2 to be postponed left and right by half the width of the openings, to put the points G3 and G4: Г2Г3 = Г2Г4 = 9,5: 2 = 4,8 cm 
From the point G3 to hold up the line to the horizontal and to put the point A2. This line divide into three equal parts. From the point G4 to hold up the line to the horizontal and put point A3. This line divide into three equal parts. 
The width of the blade. From point A to defer to the right of the horizontal width of Rostock, equal to 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm and put the point a: AA= 13,5:3+0,5=5 cm.
Height. From point a to conduct up a vertical line equal to 1.5 cm, and put the point A1. Line Rostock to hold a smooth line connecting the points A1 and A. 
Line shoulder. For slope-shoulder backless from point A2 to postpone down vertical 2 cm From the point A1 to hold right through the point 2, the shoulder line, equal measure the shoulder length plus 1.5 cm (down the shoulder), and put point P: а1П = 9,5 + 1,5 = 11 cm.
Line openings. Point G2 to connect the auxiliary line with a lower breaking point on vertical lines А2Г3. Split auxiliary line in half and the points of division drop length 1.5 cm 
Line of openings to hold from a point P of a smooth line, tangent to the line between А2Г3 the average cut points, and the points 1.5 and G2. 
Line of the yoke. From point A to postpone vertically 6 cm and put point K. From point K, draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the line of openings and to put an end K1. 

Construction drawing of the front

Width of the neck. From point b to delay the left horizontal width cap equal to the width of Rostock, to put the point B1: BB1 =AA=5cm.
Shoulder line. For slope of shoulder from the point A3 to postpone down vertical 2 cm From the point B1 through the point 2 draw a line from shoulder to the front equal to the length of the shoulder back, and put the point P1: В1П1 = а1П= 11 cm. 
Line openings. Point G2 to connect the auxiliary line with the lower point of division a vertical line А3Г4; to divide auxiliary line in half and from the points of division drop with a length of 1.5 cm.
The line of openings to hold from the point P1 in a smooth line, tangent to the lines А3Г4 between the midpoints of the division, and then through points 1,5; G2. 
The neckline and the length of the incision. From a point In to postpone on a vertical semicircle scoop neck 13.5 cm and 13.5 cm from the point the length of the incision 12 cm From the points of 13.5 and 12 to defer to the right by 1.5 cm Point 1.5 to connect with a straight line. The upper point 1.5 to connect a straight line with the point B1. Divide this line in half. To defer from the points of division of 0.5 cm and hold a smooth line through the points B1, 0.5 and 1.5.
Bar for treatment of the neck. To defer from a point B1 at the the shoulder line 3 cm from the points of 13.5 and 12 to the left by 1.5 cm Through 3; 1.5 and 1.5 to draw a line that is parallel to the line of the neck. Below the bar to make mysyk, as shown in the drawing. 

Construction drawing sleeves 

The drawing of the pattern sleeve to draw the rectangle АА1НН1 (Fig. 2бб, b). The vertical line of the rectangle is equal to the measure of length sleeve: an = А1Н1 = 35 cm 
Horizontal line rectangle is equal to the semicircle chest - 30 cm: AA1= НН1 =30 cm.
Line of the height of the top part. From point A to defer down the vertical 1/6 the semicircle of the breast plus 2 cm and place the point R: AR = 30: b + 2 = 7 see 
From point R to hold right horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical, and to put the point P1. A horizontal line AA1 split in half and put a point B. From point b to hold down a vertical line to the intersection with the line of the bottom of the sleeves and put point H2.
Line of lifts the shoulders. Connect the straight lines point To points R and R1. The line BP to split in half from the point dividing a perpendicular is erected equal to 1.5 cm Line BP1 divided into four equal parts. Put on top of the dividing point 1 cm from the bottom point of division is 0.5 cm 
the line of the top part of the sleeve to hold, as shown in the drawing through the point R; 1,5;; 1; midpoint division; 0.5 and P1. 
Line the bottom of the sleeves. From the point H2 to postpone right and left, 12 cm, to put the points H3 and H4. To connect by straight lines the points P1 and N3 with N4 with R.
Cuff. From the point H2 to defer up to 5 cm, from the points N3 and N4 for 3 see Point 5 to connect 3 points 
with straight lines. 

Preparing the pattern and cutting 

The pattern of the shirt to cut the line of the side seam. The yoke, the bar and translate cuff cutter on a blank sheet of paper and cut out the drawn lines. 
The fabric is doubled at the common thread. Details of shirts spread out on the fabric, as shown in Fig. 267. 

Tailoring

To the underside of the shirt to make Podkayne strap face, exactly them on the shoulder line and the neckline, tack and pristroit to the line cut. The right shelves of shirts to cut off the surplus strap, leaving 1 cm for processing below the cut. To make the notch from the end of the slit to the line.
Remove right-bar on the front side, tack on the edge. Second edge trims to bend 0.5 cm and tack the shirt to the end of the section. Defer the bar from both sides at 0.3 cm from the edge.
The left bar remove on the front side and tack along the edge. On the left shelf shirts cut to make nadziejko half of the strap width for transition the left strap on the right (Fig. 268, a). Edge trims bend on0.5 cm, to lay mysyk and tack the strap to the shirt to the cut. To primitivity the top bar to the bottom so that mysyk strap located on the edge of the folds (Fig. 268, b). To pristroit bar and mysyk 0.3 cm from the edge. Mysyk to stitch two cross stitches - nadechka and above the line at 0.5 cm to Defer the second side of the barthe neck, as shown in Fig. 268 b.
Sweep the shoulder slices folded in front and back, inside out with inside out. the yoke to make face to the front and tack. To pristroit along the lines of the shoulder and Rostock (Fig. 268, b). Bend the yoke on the back, tack the fold in the shoulder line and sprout and stitch along the edge. The lower section of a yokebend 0.5 cm and pristroit to the back. When setting the sleeves should the middle line of the sleeves attach to the shoulder seam, above the line of openings 1 see Vetiva sleeve, make a small planting; to vacate for armhole, sapacheva sleeve. Width 0.5 cm seam 
Sew the side seams with the sleeves lapped seam.
Cuffs sew, pristroit at a distance of 0.5 cm and turn on the front side of the sleeve. Bend the edge at 0.5 cm, tack to the sleeve and defer on the edge.
Bend the bottom of the shirt to 0.5 cm and stitch. 
On the left strap of the chemise in the middle to produce two loops (the common thread), and on the right placket to sew. 

SHIRT PLAID 

Shirt for boy from tissue to cell (Fig. 269) are finished with smooth cloth (binding) to match the cells. The front yoke, and button placket and two pockets. On the back - yoke. Turn-down collar. In the side seamsbottom line small incisions.
The drawing pattern shirt for boy of 3 to 5 years taken the following measurements in inches: 
Semicircle neck..................... 13,5 
" breast . . . . . . . . . . 30 
back Length to waist .................... 26 
" shirt ............................... 45
shoulder................................... 9,5 
> sleeve .................................14 

Construction drawing of the back 

Draw a rectangle АНВН1 (Fig. 270, a). 
The vertical line of the rectangle is equal to the measure of the length of the shirt: an = ВН1 = 45 cm.
The horizontal line rectangle is equal to the semicircle of the breast plus 6 cm for loose fit: AV = НН1 = 30 + 6 = 36 see 
The depth of the armhole. From point A to postpone vertical 1/3 semicircle chest plus 5 cm and place the point of G: AG = 30: 3 + 5 = 15 see 
the line of the circumference of the chest. From point G draw a horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point G1. 
The waist line. From point A to postpone vertically measure the length of the back to the waist and put the end T: at = 26 cm 
From point T draw a horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point T1.
Line the side seam. Line the circumference of the chest ГГ1 to share in half and put a point G2. From a point G2 to hold down vertical line to its intersection with the line of the bottom of the shirt and put the point H2. At line the side seam to outline the cut. 
The width of the openings. The width of the openings is 1/4 of the semicircle of the breast plus 2 inches: 30: 4 + 2 = 9.5 cm. 
From a point G2 to be postponed left and right by half the width of the armhole and put the points G3 and G4: Г2Г3 = Г2Г4 = 9,5: 2 = 4.75 V, see 
From point G3 to hold up the vertical line to the intersection with horizontal and put an end A2. This line divided into three equal part.
From the point G4 to hold up a vertical line to the horizontal and put an end A3. This line split into three equal parts. 
The width of the blade. From point A to defer to the right horizontally the width of the sprout is about 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm and put in point a is: AA = 13,5: 3 + 0,5 = 5 cm. 
Height. From point a to hold up the vertical line with a length of 1.5 cm and put the point A1. From point A1 to hold to A point smooth line of Rostock.
The length of the shoulder. For bevel shoulder from point A2 to postpone upside down 1.5 cm From point A1 to hold the right point 1,5 straight line, equal measure the shoulder length, and put point P: а1П = 9.5 cm. 
Line openings. Point G2 to connect with a lower breaking point in a straight А2Г3. Held the line to divide in half. From the points of division to defer 1.5 cm down 
the Line of openings to hold from the point P of the concave line, tangent to the straight А2Г3 (betweendots of division), through the point 1.5 K point G2.
Line yoke (applying line style). From point A to postpone to bottom vertically 10 cm, to put the point K. From point K to spend right horizontal line to the intersection of the armhole, to put the point K1. 

Construction drawing of the front 

Width of the neck. From point b to delay the left horizontal width cap equal to the width of Rostock, to put the point B1: BB1=5 cm.
The depth of the neck. From point b to delay vertical 1/3 semicircle neck plus 1 cm and put an end B2: BB2 = 13,5 : 3 + 1 = 5.5 cm 
From point b to draw a line that divides the angle in half, length 5 cm (mouth width) and put the point B3.
Points B1, B3, B2, connect a smooth line. 
Clarification of the bottom line. From the point H1 to continue the vertical line on the 1 see Point 1 connected to point N2, smooth line. 
The seam allowance for the zipper. From the point B2 and point 1 (at the bottom line shirt) to defer to the right 3 cm 3 Both points connect with a straight line. From the top 3 line of the neck to deepen 1 cm 
Length of shoulder. For slope of shoulder from the point A3 to defer down 1.5 cm From the point B1 to the left through the point 1.5 to draw a straight line equal to the length of the shoulder of the back, and put the point P1: В1П1 = 9.5 cm.
Line openings. Point G2 to connect a straight line with a lower breaking point in a straight А3Г4. The line split in half and the points of division to defer down 1.5 cm 
The line of openings to hold from the point P1 of the concave line tangent to А3Г4 segment (between the points), and then through the point of 1.5 to the point G2. 
The Basque line and the pocket (drawing line style). From point G1 to defer up vertical cut, equal to GK (with drawing back), and put an end K2. Through the point K2, draw a horizontal the line left and right to the intersection with the lines of openings, and fasteners.
To determine the position of the pocket from center front to postpone the left in the Basque line 4 cm from point 4 to 8 cm (width of pocket). From points 8 and 4 hold down vertical dotted line with a length of 8 cm and both points 8 connect the straight dotted line. 

Construction drawing of the sleeve 

to Draw the rectangle АНА1Н1 (Fig. 270, b). 
A vertical line of equal measure-length sleeves: an=А1Н1=14 cm 
Horizontal line rectangle is equal to the semicircle of the breast: AA1 = НН1 =30 cm.
Line of the height of the top part. From point A to defer down the vertical 1/6 the semicircle of the breast plus 2 cm and place the point R: AR = 30: 6 + 2 = 7 see
From point R to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point P1. 
Horizontal line AA1 split in half and put a point B. From point To slide down the vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line sleeves and to put the point H2. 
Line of lifts the shoulders. Connect the straight lines point To points R and R1. The line BP to share in half and from the point of division a perpendicular is erected with a length of 1.5 cm.
The line BP1 divided into four equal parts. From the top of the division a perpendicular is erected equal to 1 cm From the bottom of the dividing point lower the perpendicular length of 0.5 cm 
the line of the top part of the sleeve to pass through the point R; 1,5;; 1; the breaking point; 0.5 and P1 as shown in the drawing. 
Hem the sleeves. Continue down the vertical line 3 cm and to put the points N3 and N4 which connect a straight line. From points N and H1 to postpone right and left 1 cm point 1 to connect the points P, P1, N3, N4. 

Construction drawing of the collar 

to Draw the rectangle ABC (Fig. 270,).
The vertical line of the rectangle is 10 cm. 
Horizontal line is equal to the measure of the semicircle neck plus 3 inches: AB = BG = 13,5 + 3 = 16,5 cm 
From a point to defer to the left 5 see the Line a B be divided in half. 
Point of division and a point 5 to connect an auxiliary straight line and divide it in half. From the points of division to defer up 0.5 cm to Hold the line terminations of the collar through; 5; 0,5; the breaking point on the line AB, as shown in the drawing.
To defer from the point B to the right 3 cm from point G up 4 see Points 3 and 4 to connect with a straight line; divide it in half, and from the points of division to delay 0.5 cm to Hold a smooth line through the points 4, 0.5 and 3. To connect with a straight line the point d with the point of division on the line And B. 

Cutting 

Fabric doubled common thread. To lay out the pattern as shown in Fig. 271. All the details to carve out. 

Tailoring

Allowance for processing yoke to bend inside out and stitch. To the front side of the front tack finishing bake and pristroit (Fig. 272, a). Bend bake on the wrong side of the shirt so that the front side of its width was equal to 2 cm to Tack the binding on the fold. Bend 0.5 cm and sew over the edge.
Sweep and pristroit through the yoke back, departing from the edge 2 see
Shelves tack and pristroit from the pocket in the side of the openings and fasteners (in the area of connection with the yoke). Line pockets on the front side to stitch the shirt, at the same time prestativa allowance for the pocket the yoke. 
Sew shoulder and side sections of the lapped seam to cuts. Hem the bottom and oblachat the breakdown of the equity strips. Tack to underside of the collar lining. Baste and sew the collar three sides and turn to the front side. Tack the gasket to the podborta to pristroit the shirt the zipper.
Tack and pristroit collar to neck to shoulder seam with the gasket and podborta. Against the shoulder seam to make nadziejko, fold the collar and without interrupting the lines, pristroit to neckline neck to shoulder seam (Fig. 272, b). To make nadziejko against the other shoulder seam and continue the stitch of the collar with podborta. The cut of the collar between nasecki bend inside, tack and to pristroit on the edge. Podbot to turn inside out and attach to the shirt. 
Sew the sleeves lapped sections of the seam. Bend the bottom and stitch. To vacate sleeves lapped seam.
On the left side of the front outline and sweep of the loop; on the right - to sew on buttons.



Category: Women's and children's dress | Added by: 20.10.2017
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