SKI SUIT 

Ski suit (Fig. 317) consists of hooded jacket and trousers, narrowed down. Jacket and pants can be the same color or different colors, but blends well together. 
Jacket casual, with rectangular openings and a set sleeves. Clasp on "lightning". Patch pockets. Hoodfastened to the jacket at the neckline. 
In the drawing the jackets removed following measurements in inches: 
Semicircle neck............ 18 
" breast .........48 
back Length to waist ..........38 
" jacket . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Shoulder length........................ 13 
" sleeve ...................... 60 
" elbow-length sleeves .........33 
the Semicircle of the wrist ......9 
  
the plan for the drawing of the back of the jacket 

to Draw a box АНА1Н1 (Fig. 318). 
The vertical line of the rectangle is equal to the measure of the length of the jacket: an = А1Н1 = 58 see 
Horizontal lines is equal to the semicircle of the breast plus 9 cm for loose fit: AA1 = НН1 =48+9= 57, see 
  the depth of the armhole. From point A to postpone 1/3 of the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm and place the point of G: AG = 48: 3 + 4 = 20 cm 
  Line the circumference of the chest. From point G to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point G1. 
  The waist line. From point A to postpone the measure the length of the back to the waist, to put the point T: at = 38 cm 
From point T draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical, to put the point T1. 
  The width of the back. From point G to postpone 1/3 of the semicircle of the chest plus 5 cm and place the point G2: ГГ2 = 48: 3+ 5 = 21 see
From a point G2 to hold up the vertical line to the intersection with horizontal, to put the point A2. Line AND 2Г2 divided into four equal parts. 
  The width of the openings. From a point G2 to postpone to the right of the semicircle 1/4 chest plus 1 cm and put an end G3: Г2Г3 = 48: 4 + 1 = 13, see 
From point G3 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal, to put the point A3. 
  Line the side seam. Cut Г2Г3 split in half and put point G4. From the point G4 to make a vertical line to the bottom of the jacket and to put the point H2. 

Construction drawing of the back jacket 

  Width of Rostock. From point A to defer the right 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm, to put the point a is: AA=18:3+0,5=6,5 cm
  Height. From point a to hold up the vertical line a length of 2 cm and place the point A1; point A1 to defer up 0.5 cm 
  shoulder Line. For slope of shoulder from the point A2 to defer down 1.5 see From the point A1 through the point 1.5 to hold the line of the shoulder, equal measure the shoulder length plus 1.5 cm on the landing shoulder seam, plus 2 cm (descent shoulders for this style); to put the point P: а1П = 13 + 1,5 + 2 = 16,5 see 
Line а1П divided into three equal parts and the point of 0.5 to connect a smooth line from the left point division. The line of 0.5 n, and will shoulder line. 
  Line of Rostock. From the point of 0.5 at the shoulder line to postpone 1 cm and 1 points and connect a smooth line. 
  Line openings. From the point G4 on the line of the side seam to postpone 8 cm and to put the point M. From point M to hold the left horizontal line equal interval Г2Г4 plus 1 cm, and put an end P1: МП1 = 6,5 + 1 = 7.5 cm 
Line of openings to hold a smooth line connecting the point P, the midpoint of the dividing (line А2Г2) and the point P1. 

Construction drawing of a sleeve to the back of the jacket 

  line of the upper seam of the sleeve. Cut А3Г3 split in half, to put the point O. From point O to postpone
right 2 cm and place the point O1. From point P draw a straight line through the point O1 equal to the length of the sleeve minus 2 cm (lowering shoulder), to put the point R. Line the upper seam of the sleeve PR = 60 - 2 = 58 cm 
From point P to delay length before the elbow and put a dot L: PL = 33 cm 
From the points L and R to hold down perpendicular lines of arbitrary length. 
  Line the bottom of the sleeves. From point R to postpone down straight scoop semicircle wrist plus 5 cm and place the point P1: PP1=9+5=14, see 
the Line of the bottom of the sleeves to pass through the points P, 1 and P1, as shown in the drawing. 
  Line the bottom seam of the sleeve. Through the elbow to postpone the width of the sleeve 10 see more of the line segment PP1 and supply point L1: LL1 = 14 + 10 = 24 cm
From the point P1 draw a vertical line equal to the segment П1М, and to put the point P2: П1Р2 = П1М = 7.5 cm. 
Points P1 and L2 connecting a straight line and continue it to 3, see the midpoint of the segment Р2Л1 to defer up 1 cm to Hold a smooth line through point P2, 1, L1. 
Points 3 and R1 to connect by a straight line. On line elbow build a dart with a length of 7 cm. line the bottom seam of the sleeve held through the points P2, 1, L1, 3, and P1. 
  Line of lifts the shoulders. To hold the line of the top part of the sleeve through the point P, the midpoint of the dividing line А2Г2, P1 and P2. 

Construction drawing of the front of the jacket 

Plan for a drawing of the front of the jacket build is the same as for the back. 
Length of the front. From point A1 (Fig. 319, a) to continue up vertical line. From the point G1 to defer up vertically 1/2 the semicircle of the breast plus 0.5 cm and put an end to: Г1В = 48: 2 + 0,5 = 24.5 cm. 
From b to hold the left horizontal line of arbitrary length. 
Width of the neck. From point b to delay the left 1/3 semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm and put the point B1: BB1 = 18: 3+ 0,5 = 6.5 cm
The depth of the neck. From point b to delay down 1/3 the semicircle of the neck plus 1.5 cm and put an end B2: BB2 = 18: 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm 
Points B1 and B2 to connect a smooth auxiliary line. 
Length shoulder to tuck. From point B1 to defer to the left horizontally 4 cm. From point 4 to postpone down 1 see Points 1 & B1 connect by a straight line. 
For this style to defer from the point B1 on the line of the shoulder 1 cm from the point B2 upside down - 2 see Points 1 and 2 to connect a smooth line. 
Breast tuck From the point G1 to postpone the left is 9.5 cm and put an end G5: Г1Г5=6,5+4 - 1 =9.5 cm.
Points 1 and G5 to connect a straight line (right side tuck). 
Point 4 to connect the auxiliary line with the upper point of division into line А2Г2. From the point G4 to hold up the vertical auxiliary line to the intersection with the upper construction line and put the point P.
From a point P to defer to the right 11 cm (length of shoulder measure plus 2 cm the descent of the shoulder and minus 4 cm, previously postponed): 13 + 2 - 4 = 11 cm. 
From points G5 through the point 11 to draw a straight line equal to the right side tuck, and to put a point P1 (П1Г5 - left side tuck).
Shoulder line from tuck up to the armhole. From a point P to delay down 3 see Point 3 and connect P1 to a straight 
line and from point P1 by a line drawn to postpone the remaining length of the shoulder, i.e. 11 cm; to put the point P2. 
Line openings. From the point G3 to defer up vertically 5 cm Points 5 and L2 to connect the auxiliary straight line and split it in half. From the points of division to defer to the right 1 cm, from a point G4 on the line Boca 8 cm (draining openings) and supply point M. From point M to spend to the right a horizontal line equal to the segment Г4Г3 plus 1 cm, and put point P3.
The line of openings through the points P3, 5, 1, P2, as shown in the drawing. 
Line transfer breast tuck(line style). Pin tuck translate into the neckline. 
To do this, the neckline is split in half and the point of division to connect with the point G5 with a dotted line. 
The pocket (line style). From the point N1 on the bottom line to postpone 9 cm point 9 to defer up to 16 cm - the height of the pocket and left hem 15 cm - the width of the pocket. To build a pocket in the shape of a rectangle. Outline loop. 

Construction drawing of the sleeve to the front of the jacket

From mid-point of the dividing line to the left А2Г2 to postpone 1 cm and put the point O. From point P2 through a point On a line length of 58 cm and to put the point R: П2Р = 60 - 2 (descent of the arm) = 58 cm 
Line okata sleeves. From the point G3 to delay the left 2 cm and from point P3 - 1. the point M down to delay period equal to MP3 and put the point P1: MP1 = MP3 = 7.5 cm 
From the point P1 to hold right horizontal line is equal MP3 (7.5 cm), and supply point P2.
Line of lifts the sleeve to hold from point P2 to point 1 a straight line, and from point 1 through point 2 and the point of division to the point P2 in a smooth line, as shown in Fig. 319. 
Line the bottom seam of the sleeve. From point P1 parallel to the line IS2 to do a direct subsidiary line that is the line of the bottom seam of the sleeve backless; to put the point P3. From point P1 by a line drawn to postpone the length to the elbow, and the same the sleeve of the back, and put the point L. From point L to defer up 1 cm and hold the line bottom seam of the sleeve through the points P3,1, P1 and P2.
Line the bottom of the sleeves. Points P3 and P connected by a straight line, where you from point P3 to postpone 12 cm (semicircle wrist plus 3cm) and put point P4. 
Line Р3Р4 split in half and the dividing point to the right delay of 1 cm Line the bottom of the sleeve to pass through the points P3, 1, P4. 
Line the upper seam of the sleeve. Points P2 and P4 to connect a straight line; point P2 to defer to elbow length - 33 see Point 33 1 and connect direct auxiliary line. 

The construction of the collar 

Draw a right angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 319, b).
From point A vertically to postpone 8 cm. From point 8 draw a straight line with a length of 20 cm to the horizontal line. Held the line divide in half and from the points of division drop length of 2 see 
the Line terminations of the collar to pass through the point 8, 2, 20. 
To defer from the point 20 to the right by 10 cm, from point 10 down 5 cm 
of a Point 20 and 5 to connect a straight line. 
From point 8 down to postpone the width of the collar 12, see Point 12 and 5 to connect a smooth line, as shown in the drawing. 

Construction drawing of the hood 

to Build a rectangle АНА1Н1 (Fig. 319,).
Vertical lines an = А1Н1 = 38 see 
Horizontal lines AA1 = НН1 = 33 see 
the Front line of the hood. From point A1 to defer to the left of 8 cm and from point 8 down 3 cm 
From the point H1 to defer up to 4 cm and place the point of H2. From the point H2 to defer up 2 see 
Point 3 (top) and 2 to connect the auxiliary line which is divide into four equal parts. From the points of division to restore the perpendicular length from the top of the dividing point 4 cm from the mean and the lower 5 cm at the Front line of the hood to hold through the points 3, 4, 5, 5 and 2.
The construction of Darts. From point A to postpone for horizontal right 6 cm and 8 cm down to Hold from point b vertically and point 8 horizontal straight lines with a length of 1 cm Horizontal the line from point 1 to continue 7 cm (length tuck). Point 7 to connect with the top point 1. The distance between points 1 - the depth of the Darts (occipital). 
The top line of the hood. Point 1 (top) and 3 to connect a smooth line, as shown in the drawing.
The back line of the hood. To defer from the point N up to 2 cm and from point 2 to 4 see From point 4 to defer horizontally 4,5 Points 4,5; 1 to connect a smooth line, as shown in the drawing. 
The bottom of the hood. Points 2 and D1 to connect the smooth line (bottom of hood). 
From point 2 carried by line to defer to the right 1.5 cm Point the 4.5 and 1.5 to connect with a straight line.
Points 4,5 and D2 to connect a smooth line. In this line, to identify three folds (to fit the hood on the collar). To do this, point 4,5 right to defer 7cm to the first pleat. The depth of the folds at 2 cm. The subsequent 2 between the pleats of 3 cm 
mid-Line the front of the hood. From the point H1 to postpone at the bottom of the hood to the left and 3 cm from point 3 to hold up the vertical line to the intersection with the front line of the hood. 
Outline loops: the first one between the first and second folds; the second to the left of the point D2 at a distance of 3 cm. 

preparing the pattern and cutting of the jacket 

to Prepare the pattern:
1) backrest, cut out along the contour, the points N, A, 1, P, R1, M, N2, N (see Fig. 318); 
2) the sleeves to the back by the points P, P2, L1, S, R1, 1, R, P; put a mark at point P1; 
3) the transfer by the points N1, 2, 1, 1, P1, P2, 1, 5, L3, M, H2, H1 (see Fig. 319, a); pin tuck close and translate it on line translation of tuck; 
4) sleeves to the front - by the points P2, 2, 1, P2, P1, P3, 1, P4, P2; put a mark against point 1 on the line MP3.

The fabric is folded in half with the fold at the common thread (Fig. 320). Patterns back and front to connect the lines of the sides. The middle of the back to put towards equity the fold of the fabric. Sleeves and other details of the patterns to be decomposed into the fabric, as shown in Fig. 320. All the details to carve out. 

Tailoring jackets 

to Sweep and sew chest Darts and shoulder seams, resuturing. To process the corners of the openings. 
Hem the excess fabric along the line of the circumference of the hips to lay in soft fold lines of the sides. To handle the bottom of the jacket and iron. 
Tack and vacate "lightning" by the middle of the front of the jacket.
Processing and pritchet collar to the neckline. 
Sew the sleeves. Hem leg hem sleeveless lining fabric for support gum. The incisions on the top part of the sleeve against the marks to sew the wedges (Fig. 321, a); as a gusset nastrojki. 
Sleeve votati without landing. Top brand on the top part of the sleeve should match the shoulder seam, bottom two stamps with corners of openings. 
To make the stitching on Prime at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge. 
To vitacare loop on the pocket.
Wrong side of pocket to treat the lining fabric (Fig. 321, b). To do this, put the fabric on the wrong side of the pocket, bend the edges and hem to the pocket, a hidden seam. 
For insulation the jacket can be to make a warm lining, which is to carve out the pattern of the jacket.Sequence sew lining same as jacket.
To attach the lining to the jacket seam "forward needle", first in the armhole, then at the shoulder seam. Then the lining hem a hidden seam the neck, side and hem. 
If the jacket is unlined, the seams should be treated with banding.
Baste and then sew the hood. 
To resaturate seams of the hood at the top and rear lines. Sew a tuck so that the stitched seams are matched. Tuck to press down. 
Neckline of the hood to vitacare loop. To lay the folds, pin them and stitch. 
Under the hood to hem the lining. 

Construction drawing of the front halves of trousers 

in the drawing pants ski suit taken the following measurements in inches:
waist Semicircle........... 38 
" hip . . . . . .52 
the length of the pants on the side ............. 100 
seat Height ..................... 28
The width of the bottom (in the fashion of)........... 18

Draw a rectangle АНА1Н1 (Fig. 322, a). 
Vertical sides equal to the measure of the length of the pants: an = А1Н1 = 100 cm 
Horizontal side equal to 1/2 of the semicircle hips plus 1cm: AA1 = НН1 = 52: 2 + 1 = 27 cm 
Line of the hips. From point A to postpone vertically downwards 18 cm and to put the point B. From point B to hold the horizontal line to the right to the intersection with the vertical and put the point B1.
Line height seat. From point A to defer down the measure, seat height plus 1 cm and to put the point C. From the point C to hold the right horizontal line and the intersection with the vertical to put the point C1. 
The knee line. Cut NS to split in half and the points of division to defer up to 6 cm, to put the point K. From point K to spend right horizontal line and at the intersection with the vertical to put the point K1. 
The width of the pants the line of the seat. From point S1 to continue to the right on a horizontal line 1/8 semicircle hips minus 0.5 cm and put an end S2: С1С2 = 52: 8 - 0,5 = 6 cm.
Line the front seam. From point A1 to defer to the left 1 cm, to put the point T. Point T and B1 connecting a straight line continuing it to the point C2 smooth line. 
The waist line. From point T to postpone the left 1/2 of the semicircle waist plus 0.5 cm on loose fit, 2 cm crease 1.5 cm to tuck and put point T1: ТТ1 = 38: 2 + 0,5 + 2 + 1,5 = 23 see 
Line saulugne. Line CC2 split in half and put a point C3: CC3 = С3С2
Through the point C3 draw a vertical line up and down. At the intersection with the bottom line is to put the point H2.
Calculation of width of pants at hem. Width of the front halves of the pants are 18 - 2 = 16 cm; 16: 2 = 8 cm 
the width of the rear halves of the pants to increase by 2 cm, i.e. 18 + 2 = 20 cm; 20: 2 = 10 cm. 
the bottom Line. From the point H2 to be postponed left and right 8 cm and put the points H3 and H4. From the point H2 to defer up 0.5 cm 
Line the bottom of the pants to push through the point H3; 0,5; H4 a smooth line. 
Line the side seam. Connecting point N3 and the straight line then the points C, B and T1 - a smooth line. 
A line step length. Points H4 and C2 to connect in a straight line.
Clarifying the waist line. From a point T on the line the front seam to postpone down 1 see Connect the dots 1 and T1 is a straight line. At the intersection with a line autoike to put the point T2. 
The line of folds, tucks and pockets. From the point T2 to defer right at the waist line depth soft folds,equal to 2, see Section Т1Т2 split in half and the dividing point a perpendicular is erected with a length of 10 cm From the points of division to defer to the left and right at 1/2 the depth of the tuck, 0.75, see Point 10 connect the straight lines with dots of 0.75.
To determine the length of the pocket to postpone on the right side tucks from the waist line down, 3 cm From point 3 continue the line of the tuck down to 14 see 

Construction drawing of the rear halves of the pants 

to Draw a box АНА1Н1 (Fig. 322, b). 
The vertical and horizontal sides of the rectangle and the line hips, seat height, knee line to hold on the basis of the calculation, given when constructing a drawing of the front halves of trousers.
From H-point to the right delay period equal to Н1Н2 (see Fig. 322, a), and to put the point H5 (see Fig. 322, b). From the point H5 to hold up a vertical line and at the intersection with the horizontal AA1 putpoint T3. 
The width of the pants through the seat. From the point C to continue the left horizontal line 1/4 of the semicircle of the hips minus 1 cm to put the point C2: CC2 = 52: 4 - 1 = 12 see 
the bottom Line. From the point H5 to defer to the right and to the left for 10 cm and put the points h6 and H7.
Line the side seam. From the point A1 to the right to continue a horizontal line 2 cm From the points B1 and C1 to the right to continue a horizontal line 3 cm of the Point h6 and 3 on the line of the seat to connect a straight line. At the intersection with the line of the knee to put the point K2. From point K2 to postpone 1 see to the left the line of the side seam through points 2, 3, 3, 1 and h6, as shown in the drawing.
The waist line. From the point T3 to defer up vertically 2.5 cm and put an end to T4. From point 2 through point T4 to draw a straight line equal to 1/2 of the semicircle waist plus 0.5 cm for loose fit and 4 cm for the Darts, that's it T5: 2Т5 = 38: 2 + 0,5 + 4 = 23,5 see
A line step length. Point H7 and C2 to connect in a straight line. At the intersection with continue line of the knee to put the point K3. From the point K3 to defer to the right 2 cm. Hold the line step length, connecting the dots H7 and 2 straight line and the point 2 and C2 is a smooth line. On the lines Н7С2 to delay length, equal С2Н4 (with a drawing of the front halves of trousers), and put an end to sh. 
Line the back seam. From the point C to postpone to the left and up 2, see Point 2 on the vertical line connecting a straight line with a point T5. To divide this line into three equal parts.
To hold a smooth line - the rear line of the seam through the points W, 2, 2, the dividing point and a point T5, as shown in the drawing. 
Darts at the waist line. The waistline is divided into three equal parts. From the points of division to restore the perpendiculars of length 10 cm and build a tuck as shown in the drawing. 
P R I m e h a n and E. When creating drawings of pants intended for summer types sports should not be given the allowance of 1 cm for the calculation of the horizontal lines of the rectangle and the line height of the seat. 

Cutting and sewing of pants

When cutting the pattern of the front and rear halves of the pants to place on the fabric so that the line Н2Т2 (see Fig. 322, a) and line Н5Т4 (see Fig. 322, b) is the common thread. 
Sewing pants to start with treatment of pocket. Baste and sew the tucks and crease. Sew the side sections. To vacate zip. Sew the stepper sections. Hem the bottom. Sew the front and rear sections of the pants. Seams to resaturate and processing. To sew the waistband.