Skirts depending on the cut are divided into direct and kleczewie. The various styles of skirts: straight narrow, straight ruching or pleats kleczewie with a different number of stitches, etc.
Sewing patterns for skirts of different styles are developed mainly on the main skirt pattern.
The pattern applied to lines style that gives the skirt a different shape: tapered or extended, move the Darts, side seams. The pattern is cut, make allowances of the fabric for folds or assemblies.
For skirts with pleats or a gathered waist line counting the amount of fabric and distribute it folds without making a pattern.
Sewing patterns skirts, extended to the bottom, prepare drawings cut "sun", "bell", "three quarters of the sun" from the wedges.
The following is a construction drawing of the basic patterns skirt patterns and skirts of several styles.

DRAW MAIN PATTERN OF SKIRT
 

In the drawing the main pattern of skirt (Fig. 53) straight cut, narrow, darted waist and removed the following measurements (in cm):

Semicircle waist ........... 38
"hip . . . . . . 52
The three dimensions of length:
front (100 - 30)............ 70
side (102 - 30) ............... 72
back (101 - 30)................ 71

Note. Skirt length is determined on the basis of taken measurements from waist to floor minus the distance from the floor to the bottom of the skirt. Distance from floor to bottom of the skirt set the fashion and cut of the skirt (see Fig. 3).
The construction of the skirt you have to start with the horizontal lines of the bottom.
Line the bottom of the skirt. Draw a horizontal line equal to the measure of the semicircle hip plus 2cm for loose fit (for all sizes). To put the point N and H1: НН1 = 52 + 2 = 54 cm (width of skirt).
Line the middle of the rear cloth skirts. From point N to hold up a vertical line of equal measure the length of the skirt, and put an end T: NT = 71 cm.
Line the middle of the front cloth skirts. From the point H1 to hold up a vertical line of equal measure the length of the skirt, and put the point T1: Н1Т1 = 70 cm.
Line of the hips. From point T to postpone down vertically 18 cm (for all sizes) and put a point B. From point B to hold the right horizontal line of the hips to the intersection with a vertical line and put the point B1: BB1 = НН1 = 52 + 2 = 54 cm (width of skirt).
The width of the rear cloth skirts. From point B to defer right at the hip line width of the rear cloth skirts, equal to half the measurements of the semicircle hips minus 2 cm, and put an end B2. The width of the rear cloth skirts ББ2 = 52 : 2 - 2 = 24 see
From point N to defer to the right horizontally the same amount, i.e. 24 cm, and put an end H2: НН2 = ББ2 = 24 see
From the point H2 to hold up through the point B2, the line of sides equal to the measure of the length of the skirt from the side, and put an end T2: Н2Т2 = 72 cm.
The waist line. Points T, T2,T1 connect by straight lines. This will be the waistline of the skirt.

The calculation of the depth of the Darts 

The depth of the Darts at the waist line is determined by the difference between the width of the pattern of the skirt (54 cm) and size of the semicircle waist (38 cm) plus 2 cm for the treatment of the skirt to the bodice or waist: 54 - (38 + 2) = 14 see
The side tuck depth equal to half the depth of the Darts minus 1 cm: 14 : 2 - 1 = 6 cm.
The depth of the recesses is calculated based on the fact that rear panel is one tuck and on the front - two.
The depth of the back Darts equal: (14 - 6) : 2 = 4 see
The depth of the front recesses is equal to: (14 - 6) : 2 = 4 cm; 4 : 2 = 2 cm (each dart).

The distribution of Darts

Side tuck. From the point T2 to delay the left and right waist of 3 cm (half the depth of the side tuck) and put the points t and T1. Both points connect with the point B2 of the auxiliary lines. To split these lines in half and from the points of division delay by 0.5 cm deep into the tuck. Both sides of the side of the tuck to hold the smooth lines through the points of 0.5.
The back tuck. Waist line from dot and T's to dot and t's to split in half and the dividing point draw a vertical construction line to the hip line, which to defer up to 4 cm From the dividing point on the waist line to delay the left and right 2 cm (half the depth of the back Darts) and put the points T2 and T3. Both point to connect with point 4.
The front tuck. Waist line from point T1 to point T1 is divided into three equal parts. From the points of division draw a vertical construction line to the hip line. On the drawn lines from the hip line to postpone up until the end tucks 4 cm From the points of division on the waist line to put both sides at 1 cm, i.e. half the depth of each tuck. To put the point T4 T5 T6 T7 which connect corresponding points with 4 straight lines, as shown in the drawing.
In order that the skirt sat nicely on the figure, it is necessary to lay up perpendicular to the waist line at 1 cm from points T T2 T3 t T1 T4 T5 T6 T7 T1 and to hold the line terminations of the corsage.

SKIRT PLEATED AT THE SIDE
 

In Fig. 54 shows a one-piece straight skirt, pleated, trimmed with double stitching; closure with three buttons.
The skirt of this cut from a dense wool fabric can be recommended for all sizes.
Consumption of fabric for average size of 85 cm with a width of 130 cm

lines cut and prepare patterns 

Make two identical patterns the basics of skirts. Connect them through the middle of the front, having glued the bottom to a strip of paper.
 

The length of the front Darts, located to the right of the middle of the front to increase to the hip line. From the tuck end to make a line of cut parallel to the middle of the front (Fig. 55).
Cut the pattern for lines style. Cut tuck. Cut off the right part of the pattern to move to the left the folding of both parts of the pattern through the middle of the rear cloth skirts, and connect them by gluing a strip of paper.

Layout and cutting
 

Lay the fabric across the entire width of the face up. Impose pattern (Fig. 56), so that both sides of the fabric are left equal to half the depth of the folds.
To make the folds lay well and did not miss the depth of the folds decreases towards the bottom of the skirt. This should measure 2 cm from the bottom of the pattern left and right and hold the line brace folds with chalk or soap to the hip line.
When cutting to add up from the line terminations corsage 1 cm and down to handle the bottom of the skirt is 6 - 8 cm (see Fig. 56).

Fitting and tailoring

Sweep tuck. Baste the seam inside the pleat, not donativa it to the waist line to 15 - 18 cm Upper side of the folds to bend along a thread, and baste along the edge. To impose to the fold is laid the thread on the bottom side of the crease and tack.
To the first fitting you need to prepare grosgrain ribbon to waist size plus 4 inches to seal the ends.
To oblachat loop. Sew Darts. The ends of the Darts sucurity. Sew the inner seam crease, leaving to clasp a distance of 16 - 18 cm, sewn. Edge seam notching slant nasecki.
Fold lightly iron from the front side through a damp linen cloth.
On the waist line on the inner side of the crease to make the puncture at a distance of 2 - 3 cm from the bend folds, threading hook and sew it on the reverse side. The treatment skirt at the waist and sew the bodice is set out on page 277 (second method). The edge of the skirt of the fold creases to the edge of the bend and hem a hidden seam. Defer the skirt from the front side by 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the top edge. Processing of the reverse loops on the inside of the pleats. Defer the fold on the front side (the first line at a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from the edge, the second 0.5 cm from the first).
Hem the bottom of the skirt. Sew on buttons.

SKIRT ONE-PIECE WITH SCALLOPED DARTS
 

One-piece straight skirt with a seamed, shaped Darts and back pleat; skirt at the waist, decorated with buttons (Fig. 57).
Skirts of this style of wool fabric can be recommended for sizes 44 to 50.
Consumption of fabric for average size of 85 cm with a width of 140 cm

the lines of the design and preparation of patterns 

To prepare basic skirt pattern without Darts on the front panel and without allowances, 1 cm for the terminations of the corsage.
 

Waist line from center front of the cloth to the side of the Darts divide into three equal parts (Fig. 58, a).
To build the first front tuck to lay the hip line from the middle of the front 12 cm From point 12 to hold up the vertical auxiliary line that is 4 cm From the right of the dividing point on the waist line to delay right depth tuck - 3 see the breaking Point and 3 point to connect with point 4 straight lines. The depth of the tuck to split in half and the dividing point to hold up the vertical construction line, equal to the width of belt 3.5 cm
Line the middle of the front to continue up to 4,5 Points 4,5; 3,5 to connect a smooth line, extending its 0.5 see Point 0.5 s to connect with the point of dividing the depth of the tuck. Get the line style of the top of the skirt.
To build the second front tuck to hold from the left of the dividing point on the waist line vertical construction line to the hip line. For the line to delay up to 9 cm From the dividing point on the waist line to delay right depth tuck - 2 see breaking Point and connect point 2 with point 9 as straight lines.
To handle the upper part of the front cloth skirts to make a pattern podkralas piping (Fig. 58, b). For the belt cut from the fabric of the equity strip of a width of 10 cm, and the length 4 - 5 cm longer than the measurements of waist circumference.

Layout and cutting
 

Fold the fabric in half with the fold at the common thread (Fig. 59). To put the pattern by the middle of the front cloth on fold of fabric. Remaining on the left side of the pattern fabric is designed to crease. For bracing folds to defer 1.5 cm from the bottom of the pattern to the left, and on the line with chalk or soap through the point of the hips to the waist line to draw a line, as shown in the drawing. Bracing line will be the line of the middle of the rear cloth skirts. Brace folds from the waist line becomes a little narrower. If after measurement it will be less than that required, it is necessary to reduce the depth of the side tuck.
Podkayne obtachku to carve out one layer of fabric so that the direction of threads on the facing corresponds to the direction them on top of the skirt. A raise on the seams shown in Fig. 59.

Fitting and tailoring 

Baste the seam and pleat with the wrong side of the line brace. To sweep away all the Darts except the tuck on the left side, which is sewn into the zipper. The first front tuck,sweep across the face. To try.
To handle the upper part of the front cloth skirts. Podkayne obtachku to put a face on the front side of the skirt, tack and pristroit. To do in the corners of the notch to line, cut corners, and then turn the facing inside out, sweep around the edge and priotity. The upper edge of the inner side of the notched tuck remove from the front side on the wrong, after making nadziejko the edge of the fabric to the waist line, and attach the facing to the seam. Defer the tuck on the front side, starting the stitching at 1.5 cm above the waist (from the intended point terminations buttons).
Sew and press Darts. Sew back seam and the fold line of the bracing, leaving a distance of 20 - 25 cm from the bottom of the skirt nezastroennoe. Sew a zipper into a side tuck on the left side.
To prepare the corsage along the length of the belt. Corsage width - 3.5 cm On the front side of the skirt put face down a strip of cloth prepared for the belt, so that 3 to 4 cm past the clasp. Tack on the waist line.
Part belt on the front panel to the skirt no sew. Cloth belt round the corsage and sew a hidden seam, and then attached to the facing of the upper part of the front half of the skirt.
To make a loop of thread to the hook fasteners at the waist. Sew on buttons. Hem the bottom of the skirt.