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Home » Articles » Women's and children's dress

Top-dress with turndown collar

TOP the SHIRT WITH a COLLAR 

In Fig. 273 picture of the top shirt for baby boy turn-down collar long sleeves cuffs. 
The drawing pattern shirts for boy 10 - 11 years taken the following measurements in inches: 
Semicircle neck............ 16 
breast . . . . . 36 
Length of shirt..................... 55 
" shoulder......................... 11 
sleeves ...................... 50 

Construction drawing of the back 

Draw a rectangle АНВН1 (Fig. 274, a). 
A vertical line of equal measure the length of the shirt: an=ВН1=55 cm.
The horizontal line is equal to the semicircle of the breast plus 9 cm for loose fit: AV = НН1 = ZB + 9 = 45 cm. 
The depth of the armhole. From point A to defer down vertical 1/3 the semicircle of the breast plus 6 cm and place the point of G: AG = BV: 3 + 6 = 18 see 
the line of the circumference of the chest. From point G draw a horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point G1. 
Line the sides. Line the circumference of the chest divided into two equal parts and to put the point G2. From a point G2 to hold down the vertical line to the horizontal and put a point of H2.
The width of the openings. The width of the openings is 1/4 of the semicircle of the breast plus 2 inches: 3b: 4 + 2 = 11 cm 
From a point G2 to be postponed left and right by half the width of the armhole and put the points G3 and G4: Г2Г3 = Г2Г4 = 11: 2 = 5.5 cm. 
From point G3 to hold up the vertical line to the intersection with horizontal and put an end A2. This line divided into three equal part. From the point of G4 is also to hold up a vertical line to the horizontal and put an end A3. This line split into three equal parts.
The width of the blade. From point A to defer to the right horizontally the width of the sprout is about 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm and put in point a is: AA = 16: 3 + 0,5 = 5,8 cm 
Height. From point a to hold up the vertical line equal to 1.5 cm, and put the point A1. Point A1 and A connecting smooth line - line of Rostock. 
Shoulder line. For slope shoulder from point A2 to defer down vertically 2 cm From point A1 to hold right through the point 2 the straight line is equal to measure the shoulder length plus 1.5 cm on the descent of the shoulder, and put a point P: а1П = 11 + 1,5 = 12,5 cm
Line openings. Point G2 to connect with the bottom point division by direct А2Г3 and held the line to split in half. From the points of division drop length of 1.5 see 
the Line of openings to hold point P is a smooth line tangent to the straight А2Г3 between the upper andthe lower point of division and through the point 1.5 K point G2. 
The bottom line is. To expand the bottom of the shirt from the point H2 to defer to the right 3 cm and place the point H3; connect it with the point G2. From the point H3 delay up to 1,5 cm and 1,5 point to connect a smooth line with the H-point. 

Construction drawing of the front

Width of the neck. From point b to delay the left horizontal width cap equal to the width of Rostock, to put the point B1: BB1 = AA = 5,8 cm 
The depth of the neck. From point b to delay down vertical 1/3 the semicircle of the neck measure plus 1 cm and put an end B2: BB2 = 16: 3 + 1 = 6,3 cm 
From a point In a line dividing the angle in half, equal to 5.8 cm (width at the neck), and put an end B3. 
The neck to hold a smooth line connecting the points B1 OT B2.
The length of the incision. From point B2 to delay down 20 cm.
Shoulder line. For slope of shoulder from the point A3 to postpone down vertical 2 cm From the point B1 to hold the left through the point 2 a straight line equal to the length of the shoulder back, and put the point P1: В1П1 = 11 + 1,5 = 12,5 see 
the Line of openings. Point G2 to connect with the bottom point division into direct А3Г4. Held the line to split in half. From the point division drop length 1.5 cm 
Line of openings to hold from point P1 in a smooth line tangent to the straight А3Г4 between the upper and lower cut points, and then through the point 1.5 K point G2.
The bottom line is. To expand the bottom of the shirt from the point H2 to postpone left 3 cm and place the point H4; connect it with the point G2. To defer from point H1 down 1 cm, and from point N4 up 1.5 cm Point 1 and 1.5 connect a smooth line. 

Construction drawing of the sleeve 

to Draw the rectangle АНА1Н1 (Fig. 274, b).
A vertical line of equal measure-length sleeves: an = А1Н1 = 50 cm 
Horizontal line equal to the semicircle of the breast: AA1=НН1=36 see 
Line of the height of the top part. From point A to defer down the vertical 1/6 the semicircle of the breast plus 2 cm and place the point R: AR=36:6+2=8 cm.
From point R to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point P1. 
Horizontal line AA1 split in half, to put the point In and from her hold down the vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line of the sleeve, to put the point H2. 
Line of lifts the shoulders. Connect the straight lines point To points R and R1. 
The line BP to split in half and the points of division to defer up right angle 1.5 cm 
The line BP1 divided into four equal parts. To postpone right angle from the top of the division up 1 cm and from the lower point of division is down to 0.5 see
Line of lifts the sleeve to hold a smooth line connecting the points R; 1,5;; 1; the midpoint of the dividing lines BP1, 0.5 and P1, as shown in the drawing. 
The width of the bottom of the sleeves. From the point H2 to postpone left and right 14 cm and put points N3 and N4. Point N3 connecting a straight line with a point P; point D4 - point P1. 
The sleeve length it is necessary to reduce by 3 cm (wide cuff), i.e., at half height cuff (height of cuff 6 cm). To do this, from the points N3 and N4 to postpone up lines of the side sections 3, see Point 3 to connect direct line.
The slit for zipper. From the point H2 to defer to the left 7 cm and hold parallel to the centerline of the sleeve straight with a length of 8 see 
P R I m e h a n and E. For shirts with short sleeves can be used this same drawing of the construction of the sleeve (see Fig. 274, b). Be desired the length of the sleeve to defer from the highest point on the middle line. 

Construction drawing of the collar 

to Draw the rectangle ABC (Fig. 274,). 
Vertical lines equal to the width of the collar 10 cm 
Horizontal line equal to the circle half of the neck plus 1.5 and 0.5 cm: AB = GW = 16 + 1,5 + 0,5 = 18 cm.
Stand collar. From point G to defer up to 3.5 cm and to put the point C. From point C, draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical, and to put the point C1.
From point C1 to delay the left horizontally 1.5 cm and length 0.5 cm, dividing the angle in half. From a point 1 cm. to defer up Point 1,5; 0,5 and 1 to connect a smooth line. 
A line of guards is divided into three equal parts and put point O and O1. From point G to defer up 1 see 
Line terminations stand to hold a smooth line connecting the points 1, O, O1, 1.
The departure of the collar. From the point C to defer up 4 see Point 4 to connect a straight line with point B. Divide the line into three equal parts and to put the points O2 and O3. From point O to postpone down 1 cm to Hold smooth line from point 4 through point O3, 1 and B. 
Points B and 1.5 to connect with a straight line. 

Preparing patterns and cutting 

to Prepare the paper pattern pieces. 
Cuff. Rectangle width 22 cm, height 6 cm 
the Pocket. Cut a square of side 10 cm.
Straps for handling slit sleeves. Cut a rectangle for the top strap length 10 cm, width 5 cm, lower strap length 7 cm, width 2 cm 
Strap to handle of the clasp. Cut in strips the form of rectangles. Dimensions top of slat: width 8 cm, length 26 cm (cut length 20 cm, plus 5 cm for processing mysyk and 1 cm for processing neck). Sizes bottom bracket: width 6 cm, length 21 cm (length cut 20 cm plus 1 cm for the treatment of neck). 
Cut pattern back and front at the side seam.
All pattern pieces to lay on fabric common thread, as shown in Fig. 275, and find. 
P R I m e h a n and E. When cutting a collar from fabric in stripes or checks it is necessary to monitor the proper placement of the strips and cells.

Tailoring 

To the left of the cut tack from the inside of the wide strap above the neckline the neck 1 cm (Fig. 276, a). Pristroit to the bar, stepping back from the edge cut 0.5 cm of the cut line to measure the half-width of the strap (Fig. 276, b) and the line to bend the bar on the front side. From bend the straps measure 3.5 cm and the remaining part to bend inside out.
Defer bar from two sides until the end of the section at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge (Fig. 276, C). Lower face tack to the inside of the right edge of the slit so the strap is 1 cm was above the neckline the neck and 1 cm below the incision. To pristroit the bar at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge of the cut. The strap width to measure width of strap left side of shirt and peel back on the front side. To do the undercut strips from the end of the cut to half its width and the remaining part of the cut (Fig. 276, d). Edge trims can bend and stitch. The lower end of the strapbend and hem seam "over the edge" from the inside.
To impose the top bar on the bottom. The upper strap on the inner side cut the excess fabric. The ends of the strap to bend, to make mysyk. Tack and pristroit it to the shirt along the edge and at a distance of 0.5 cm from region. To perestroit mysyk. Align the trims at the neckline (Fig. 276, d). Sew shoulder seams lapped seam. 
The top edge pocket to oblachat finishing placket, pocket pristroit to the left side the front of the shirt. Sew the side sections of the lapped seam. 
Cut sleeves to handle the equity strips.
To the top of the cuff tack strip and stitch at 0.5 cm from region. Cut off the excess fabric in the corners. Remove the cuff on the front side and prometti on the edge. 
Cuff folded in half and from the fold measure 2 cm To the underside of the sleeve to attach the front side of the bottom the cuff side; the lower side of the cuff to tack to a small bar, a big way to the bar. Sleeve to a large plank to lay folds, and to a little is to put on the string and pristroit. Slice cuff bend and pristroit to the sleeve along the edge, covering the seam lines, and defer to 0.5 cm.
Collar to sweep away with the gasket propositiva the corners of the top layer, and sew at a distance of 0.5 cm from region. Cut corners and turn to the front side. To prometti on the edge and to stitch the collar on the front side 0.5 cm from the edge. Fold collar, exactly the ends, and outline the middle of the collar. 
To the middle of the back to make the middle of the collar to tack with seal and to pristroit. Tuck the lower section of the rack, tack and pristroit, closing the seam. 
To vacate sleeves lapped seam. Joint width is the same as that of the shoulder.
Bend the bottom of the shirt into 1 - 1.5 cm and stitch in the edge of the ACC. 
On the top strap shirt and top straps sleeveless sweep loop equity direction. On the lower straps to sew on buttons. At the front collar to sweep the loop along the rack. Cuffs sweep loops along the cuffs.



Category: Women's and children's dress | Added by: 20.10.2017
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