WOMEN'S DRESSES-COSTUMES 

Dress-suit refers to the common form of women's clothing and is a jacket with skirt or jacket with a dress or sundress. Summer dresses-the costume even of cotton fabric look very impressive, they are comfortable and inexpensive. Under the jacket wear fixings, scarves and blouses.

Jackets make unlined. Processing is the same as for dresses.
 
For the development of a style of dress-suit make up the main pattern of the jacket to the hip line, withdrawn standards, with allowance for the free fit 5 to 6 cm
 
This pattern is applied to the line style.
 
Sleeves can be one-piece and double seam, the collars are the same as for dresses. Styles of skirts elaborate on basic patterns of skirts straight and kletevogo designs.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING OF THE BASIC PATTERN OF THE JACKET 

In the drawing the main pattern of the jacket is removed the following measurements in inches:

The semicircle of the neck............... 18
"breast ........... 48
"waist ........... 38
"hip . . . . . .52
Shoulder width (control measure)..19
Back length to waist ............ 38
"jacket (back length plus 18 cm) .. 56
Height bust ........................ 32,5
Front length to waist (test measure) 51
shoulder........................... 13

the plan for the drawing of the jacket 

Draw a rectangle АА1НН1 (Fig. 136).
 
The vertical line of the rectangle is equal to the measure of the length of the jacket: an = А1Н1 = 56 cm.
 
The horizontal line rectangle is equal to the semicircle of the breast, plus 5 cm for loose fit: AA1 = НН1 = 48 + 5 = 53, see
 
 the depth of the openings. From point A to defer down the line to the middle of the back of the semicircle of 1/3 of the chest plus 4 cm (for all sizes) and supply point G. the depth of the armhole AH = 48: 3 + 4 = 20 cm
 
 Line the circumference of the chest. From point G to hold right horizontal line (the line of the circumference of the chest) and at the intersection with the vertical А1Н1 to put the point G1.
 
 The waist line. From point A to postpone upside down measure the length of the back to the waist and put the end T: at = 38 cm
 
From point T to hold right horizontal line (waist line) and at the intersection with the vertical А1Н1 to put the point T1.
 
 Back width. From point G to defer to the right of the line of circumference of the chest width of the back is about 1/3 of the semicircle of the breast plus 3 cm (for all sizes, and to put the point G2. Back width ГГ2 = 48: 3 + 3 = 19 cm
 
If the calculated measurement of the width of the back is not the same as the control, you have the width correct.
 
From point G2 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal and to put an end A2.
 
 The width of the openings. From point G2 to defer to the right of the line of circumference of the chest width of the armholes, equal to 1/4 of the semicircle of chest plus 1 cm, and put an end G3. The width of the openings Г2Г3 = 48: 4 + 1 = 13 see
 
From point G3 to hold up the vertical line to the horizontal and to put an end A3.
 
 Deepening the armhole. Points G2 and G3 to continue down the vertical lines of the 2 see Both points 2 are connected by a straight line.
 
 Auxiliary line of the side seam. From left 2 right to postpone 1/3 of the width of the armhole and put an end G4. 2Г4 = 13: 3 = 4,3 cm
 
Through the point G4 to make a vertical line: up to 0.5 cm, down to the intersection with the horizontal line at the bottom of the jacket; this vertical line is an auxiliary line of the side seam. At the intersection with the waist to put the point T2 from a bottom line point of H2.
 
Based on the building plan drawings of the back and front of the jacket.

Construction drawing of the back 
 
 Width of Rostock. From the point A (Fig. 137) to defer the right of the horizontal width of Rostock, equal to 1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm (for all sizes), and supply point. The width of Rostock AA = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm
 
 Height. From point a to hold up a vertical line of length 2 cm and place the point A1. Then the line to continue up a further 0.5 see Point 0.5 and And connect a smooth line - line Rostock.
 
 Shoulder line. For slope of shoulder from the point A2 to defer down vertically 2 cm (for all sizes). From point A1 to hold right through the point 2 the straight line is equal to measure the shoulder length plus 1.5 cm on the landing shoulder seam, and put a point P: а1П = 13 at + 1.5 = 14.5 cm.
 
From the point A1 by a line drawn 5 cm to postpone
 
Points 0.5 and 5 to connect a smooth line. A line that connects the point of 0.5; 5; N will be the line of the shoulder.
 
 Line openings. From the left point 2 (deepening the armholes) to draw a line that divides the angle in half, equal to 1/4 the width of the armhole: 13: 4 = 3.2 cm
 
The line of openings to hold from the point P of the concave line, tangent to the lines А2Г2 (between the middle and lower points), then through the point of 3.2 to the point of 0.5.
 
 Line of the side seam. Based on the calculation of the depth of tucks and extra thickness at the line of hips to be postponed from the point T2 to the left waist and 2 cm from point D2 to the right of the line of hips - 1 cm.
 
The line of the side seam to hold from a point 0.5 point 2 (left) a straight line, then from point 2 to point 1 smooth line.
 
Tuck at the waist line. From a point T at the waist to postpone 8 cm (width Rostock plus 1.5 cm): 6,5 + 1,5 = 8 cm.
 
From point 8 to defer to the right waist and tuck a depth of 3 cm, and this distance is divided in half. From the dividing point to hold the middle line tuck down with a length of 12 cm and up not bringing it to line the circumference of the chest 6 cm.
 
Point b, 8, 12 and 3 connect the straight lines.

Construction drawing of the front 

 length of the front. From point A1 (see Fig. 137) continue up the vertical line. From the point G1 to defer up vertically to 1/2 of the semicircle of the breast plus 0.5 cm (for all sizes) and put a point IN: Г1В = 48 : 2 x 0.5 = 24.5 cm.
 
From point T1 to postpone down 1 cm Distance In - 1 will be the length you need to check on the control measure. In the case of deviations from the measurements should be the length of the front to fix it.
 
 Width of the neck. From point b to hold the left horizontal line with a length of 12 - 15 cm and to postpone the segment BB1 is equal to the width of Rostock.
 
Width of the neck BB1 = AA = 6.5 cm
 
 Depth neckline. From point b to delay down vertically 1/3 of the semicircle of the neck plus 1.5 cm (for all sizes) and put an end B2: BB2 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.
 
From the point In to draw a line that divides the angle in half, equal to the width of the neck plus 0.5 cm and put an end Q3: ВВ3 = 6.5 + 0.5 = 7 cm.
 
Points B1, B3, B2 to connect the smooth line of the neck.
 
 Length shoulder to tuck. To defer from the point B1 to the left horizontally 5 cm from point 5 down to 1 cm (for all sizes). Points 1 & B1 connect by a straight line.
 
 Breast tuck. From the point G1 to postpone the distance to the end chest Darts equal to the sum of the width of the neck and the shoulder length to tuck minus 1 cm (for all sizes), and put an end G5: Г1Г5 = 6,5 + 5 - 1 = 10.5 cm.
 
Points 1 and G5 to connect a straight line.
 
The distance from point B1 to G5 on the dotted line should be removed measure the height of the bust minus the length of the sprout: 32,5 - 7,5 = 25 cm.
 
If the specified distance will not be equal to standards, it is necessary to shorten or lengthen a straight line from point G5.
 
Line А2Г2 divided into four equal parts; the point 5 to connect an auxiliary line from the top point of division. The width of the openings Г2Г3 split in half and the dividing point to hold up a construction line to the intersection with the upper auxiliary and supply point P1. From the point P1 to defer to the right of the auxiliary line 8 cm (length, shoulder-to-measure minus 5 cm previously measured distance of the shoulder from the neck to tuck): 13 - 5 = 8 cm.
 
From points G5 through the point 8 draw a straight line equal to the right side of the tuck, and put the point P2.
 
Length from shoulder Darts to the armhole. From point P1 down auxiliary line postpone to 3 cm (for all sizes) - bevel shoulder of the front. Point 3 connected to point P2 by a straight line. From the point P2 by a line drawn to defer 8 cm, i.e. the length of the tuck from shoulder to armhole and to put the point P3,
 
 the line of the armhole of the front. From the point G3 to postpone upward 1/4 line Г3А3 and to put a point On that connecting point P3 by a straight line. Cut П3О split in half and the points of division to defer to the right 1 cm From the right point 2 (deepening the armholes) to draw a line dividing the angle
in half, equal to 1/4 of the width of the openings minus 0.5 cm: 13 : 4 - 0,5 = 2.7 cm
 
From the same point 2 to be postponed to the left horizontal segment length Г3О and put the point O1.
 
The line of openings to hold a smooth line through the points P3; 1;; 2.7; O1; 0.5.
 
 Line of the side seam. To defer from the point T2 to the right 2 cm, from the point H2 to the left 2 see
 
The line of the side seam to hold from a point 0.5 point 2 (right) straight line, then to the bottom 2 a smooth line.
 
 Changing the waist line and the hem. From point T1 to postpone down 1 cm, point 1 connected to point 2 on the waist line.
 
From point D1 line to continue down to 1 cm and this point to connect a smooth line with a point 2 on the bottom line.
 
 The construction of the Darts at the waist front. Front of jacket has two Darts: the first on the center chest and the second to the left of the first.
 
The distance from the middle front to the first tuck on the waist line equal to the distance from the point G1 to the point of the G5 minus 1.5 cm: 10,5 - 1,5 = 9 cm.
 
Point 9 connected to point G5 a straight line. From the point G5 to defer down by a line drawn 6 cm; from point 9 to the left 3 see Point b and 3 to connect with a straight line. The depth of the tucks. 3 cm split in half and the dividing point down to hold the middle line tuck with a length of 12 cm Point 12 to connect with points 3 and 9 are straight lines.
 
A vertical line А3Г3 continue down to the intersection with the waist line. From the point of intersection of the right and left delay to 1 cm, and down the line to proceed to 12 cm From point 2 (deepening the armhole) down to delay 4 see
 
Points 4 and 12 connect the straight lines with points 1 and 1 on the waist line.

Building Board

Cut the sides and the shape of the lapel (top side) can be varied depending on the fashion and style.
 
To build a side from a point B2 to defer to the right horizontally 6 cm From point 1 to continue the line of the bottom also 6 see Both points b to connect the auxiliary line.
 
The location of the loops depends on style.
 
The first loop is always planned at the waist, and the rest from her up and down in style, for example from the first loop at a distance of 10 cm; the line side against the hinges should be parallel to the line of mid front. To do this, to postpone from point 1 and down from top 10 to the right by 3 cm and 3 both points connect with a straight line. To defer from the upper point b down 3 cm from the point B2 to the right on a horizontal line 2 cm from point 2 down the vertical axis and 2 cm to end, which is connected to point 3 and with the neck.
 
The line of the lapel to hold from point 3 down to 8 - 10 cm on the auxiliary line, then a smooth curve to connect with the line side vs the top of the loop.

The construction of the collar

The collar is detachable, but is based on the drawing of the jacket.
 
From point B1 to defer down up 9 cm (1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 3 cm), from a point 9 on the horizontal axis by 5 cm from point b vertically down - 3 cm.
 
From point 3 through point 9 to draw a line of length 8 cm - width of collar. Point 8 to connect the auxiliary line with point b and to divide the line into three equal parts. From the bottom notches to the left to delay 0.5 cm and a smooth line to connect points 8; 0.5; b. Then point V4 to connect with the point b by a straight line.
 
The middle of the collar at point 3 to connect with the neck, as shown in the drawing. The pattern of a collar cut along the contour: 8; 0,5; b; B4; B3; 3; 8.
 
The neck is defined by a line drawn through the points B1, B3, B4, 3.

The construction of a double seam the sleeves to the jacket 

Pattern double seam of the sleeve consists of two halves: upper and lower.
 
The drawing of the pattern taken measurements in inches:

The semicircle of the breast ........... 48
wrist.......... 9
Sleeve length ......................... 60
 
 the Construction of the upper half of the sleeve. Draw a rectangle АА1НН1 (Fig. 138).
The vertical line of the rectangle is equal to the measure length sleeves: an = А1Н1 = 60 cm.
 
The horizontal line of the rectangle is 1/3 of the semicircle of the breast plus 2 cm (for all sizes): AA1 = НН1 = 48: 3 + 2 = 18 cm
 
 the height of the top part of the sleeve. From point A to defer down vertically 3/4 of the depth of the armhole plus 2 cm (for all sizes) and put the point R. the height of the top part of the sleeves AR = 20 : 4 x 3 + 1 = 16 cm, 20 cm - depth of the armhole of the jacket.
 
From point R, draw a horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point P1.
 
 The line of the elbow. The distance from point R to point N divided in half. From the points of division to defer up 2 cm and place the point L. From point L, hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the vertical and put the point L1. Video LL1 - line of the elbow.
 
 Line the front seam of the sleeve. From point R horizontal line to continue to the left by 4 cm and put
the point P2. The line of the elbow from the point L to continue to the left by 2 cm and place the point L2.
 
From point N to defer up vertically 3 cm from point 3 to the left horizontally 4 cm and place the point of H2.
 
Line the front seam of the sleeve to pass through the point Р2Л2Н2.
 
 Line of lifts the shoulders. From point R to defer up to 1/4 the depth of the armhole and put the point: RO = 20 : 4 = 5 cm.
 
From a point P to draw a line that divides a right angle in half, equal to half of the cut RO, and put the point O1: РО1 = RO : 2 = 2 5 cm.
 
Horizontal line AA1 divide in half and put an end to high point of crown sleeves.
 
Point O and connect a straight line and divide it in half. The breaking point to connect point A and the resulting line is divided into three equal parts. At the bottom of the division to put the point O2.
 
From the point P1 to defer up vertically 1/4 the depth of the armhole and put the point P3: Р1Р3 = 20 : 4 = 5 cm.
 
Through the point P3 to the right to hold a horizontal line of length 4 cm and to the left randomly.
 
Cut А1Р3 split in half and the point of division to connect with a point In a straight line. This line is split in half and is perpendicular to it from the points of division to defer 1.5 cm
 
Line of lifts the sleeve to pass through the point P2; O1;; O2;; 1,5; point of division on the line А1Р3; 4.
 
 Line elbow seam of sleeve. From the point L1 in the line of the elbow to continue to the right by 4 cm and place the point L3 which is connected to point 4 a straight line. From the point L3 to defer up 9 see
 
From point N to defer to the right on the horizontal line 14 cm (semicircle wrist to measure plus 5 cm) and put an end H3: MC = 9 + 5 = 14 cm
 
Points H3 and 9 to connect the line to split in half. From the points of division to defer to the right 1, see Continuing line of 4 - 9 smooth connection points 9, 1 and N3, get a line of the elbow joint.
 
 Line the bottom of the sleeves. Line the bottom of the sleeves to pass through the point H2, 3, H3.
 
 Line front fold of the sleeve. From point L through the elbow to defer to the right 2 cm and put an end L4.
 
The line of the anterior fold of the sleeve to hold the smooth dashed line through the points P, L4, and 3. The upper half of the sleeve passes through the point P2; L2; N2; 3; N3; 1; 9; 4; point of division; 1,5; V; O2; O; O1; P2.
 
 Building a lower half sleeve. Lower half of sleeves to build a following.
 
 Line the front seam. From the points R, L4 and 3, ie from the front fold of the sleeve, to defer for 3 cm and put the point P4, L5, N4. These points and connect the line to proceed up to 1 cm from the point P4. This will be the front line of the seam.
 
 Line elbow weld. From point P4 to defer to the right 1/4 of the semicircle of the breast minus 2 cm and put an end R5: Р4Р5 = 48 : 4 - 2 = 10 cm.
 
Line Р4Р5 divided into three equal parts.
 
From the point L5 at the elbow to defer to the right 1/4 of the semicircle of the breast minus 2 cm and put an end L6: Л5Л6 = 48 : 4 - 2 = 10 cm.
 
At the bottom of the sleeve from a point H3 to defer to the left 2 see
 
Point 2, L6, R5 to connect a smooth line, which continue up to the intersection with the auxiliary and at the intersection to put the point O3. The drawn line will be the line of the elbow joint.
 
 Notch lower halves of the sleeve. Point O3 to connect with a smooth curve with the left point of division on the line Р4Р5 and point 1. The drawn line will be a notch lower halves of the sleeves.
 
The lower half of the sleeve passes through the point 1, L5, N4, 2, L6, R5, O3, the point of division and 1.