First and foremost, as with any other sewing products, you need to build drawing a grid, and on its basis drawing shirts. For this you will need the following measurements (in cm):

— ПоГ2 (48);
— the Posh (18);
— POB (53);
— DST (42);
— GPR (21);
— DB (21);
Du (70);
— DPT (44).

You also need to take into account the increase (in cm) on the free fit. They are the same for all sizes:

— PG (the increase on the chest line) — 3-4 cm;
— PGP (increase in depth of openings) — 3-4 cm;
— PB (the gain at the hips) is 3-4 cm.

First construct a right angle with vertex at point a and the parties directed to the right and down (Fig. 68).

Line the middle of the back — side angle, downward.

The waist line. From the top of the angle on its vertical side put a period equal to the length of the back to the waist, and put the point T. Thus, the at = DST = 42 cm from this point, draw a horizontal line to the right.

The line of the chest. Aside from the point And the line of the mid-back period equal to the sum of the depth of the openings and increase the depth of the armhole on the free fit. Check point G and draw a horizontal line to the right.

The hips. Aside from point T down vertical cut, which should be equal to half the measurements of DST minus 1, see Check point B, and swipe from it by a horizontal line to the right.

The bottom line is. Down vertically from the point T set aside a period equal to the length of the skirt. Place the H-point and slide it out of the line to the right horizontally.

Line the middle of the front. At the breast line from the point G lay aside the cut is equal to the sum of poluobhvat chest 2 and increase in a free fit for the chest. Put a point G1 and a swipe from it a vertical line down.

Label the point of intersection with the line of the waist by a letter T1, hips — B1, with a line hem — H1.

Thus, the distance between the points G and G1, T and T1, B & B1, H and H1 are the same and represent 51 cm (ГГ1 = ПоГ2 + PG = 48 + 3 = 51 cm). This will be the mesh width of product drawing.

The highest point of the neck. From point T1 up through the middle of the front set aside a period equal to the length of the front to the waist (in this case, 44 cm). Put a point A1.

Line of the side sections. Divide the Breasts in half and mark the point K. From this point draw a vertical line down.

In the place of its intersection with the waist line, put a letter t, with the line of the hips — b, with the bottom line is — H2.

Back. Sprout. To the right of the point A on the horizontal postpone the cut, the length of which should correspond to 1/3 of the measurements posh plus 4 cm Put the point R. Then from the same point in the middle of the back set aside the cut is about 1/3 of the measurements posh plus 6 cm Denote the resulting point by the letter a. After that connect the points R and a concave line.

Shoulder cut. To the right of point P will put a horizontal line with a length of 4-7 cm (for all sizes) and put a point P1. This will be the width of the shoulder.

Further, from the point P1 draw a vertical line to the breast line. The point of intersection with the line of the chest indicate the letter S. Then put down vertically from the point P1 segment of length 0.5–1 cm and with a ruler connect the obtained point by point R.

the Armhole. Divide in half the angle Р1СК. From the point C along this line, put a length of 4-5 cm (this figure is constant for all sizes) and put a point C1. Then connect the smooth concave point line For C1 and 0.5–1 cm

Lateral slice. Left horizontally from a point t set aside a segment of length 1 cm At the hip line from point b postpone segment equal to half the difference between the poluobhvat hips with the addition to free fit at the hips and the width of the grid. Put the point B1. In this case, BB1 = ((POB + PB) — BB1) : 2 = ((53 + 3) — 51) : 2 = 2,5 see bottom line to the right of point N2 put a length of 10-12 cm and put a point H3. Then with a ruler connect the dot N3 dot 1 cm, located on the waist line, and she, in turn, point To on the chest.

The bottom slice. Up lateral cut from the point H3 to set aside a segment of length 1.5–2 cm and connect the obtained point with the midpoint of the segment НН2 a smooth line. From the point N to the midpoint НН2 the lower section is the same as the bottom line.

Before. Neck. To the left of point A1 will put a horizontal line equal to 1/3 poluobhvat neck plus 4 cm (for all sizes), and put a point Then from the same point A1 down through the middle of the front postpone the cut, the length of which corresponds to 1/3 of poluobhvat neck plus 10 cm (for all sizes) and put the point B1. Connect the dots In a and B1 a smooth concave line.

Shoulder cut. To the left from point b postpone segment with a length of 4-7 cm Is the width of the shoulder. You have to put in and draw from it a vertical line to the breast line. The point of intersection of these lines mark the letter P. Then move from point to down a segment of length 0.5–1 cm and with a ruler connect the obtained point by point V.

the Armhole. From point K, located on the chest, slide up the vertical line with a length of 4-5 cm (this is the value of the solution tucks) and put a point K1. Divide in half the angle of the MIC on these lines (bisector) a point P, put a length of 5-7 cm

Put a point P1. Connect the dots of 0.5–1 cm, P1 and K1 smooth concave line.

The side cut. To the right of the point t, located on the waist line, put a length of 1 cm to the Left of point b, located on the hip line, put a period equal to the extension of the back at the hip line (in this case 2.5 cm), and set point B2. To the left of the point H2 is set aside 10-12 cm and put a point H4. Connect the dots H4, B2 and a point 1 cm, located on the waist line, as well as the corresponding points in the back. From the waist line draw a straight to the point K1.

The lower section. From the point N4 up side shear set aside 1.5–2 cm and connect the obtained point with the midpoint of the segment Н1Н2 a smooth line.

From the midpoint Н1Н2 the lower section is the same as the bottom line.

Tuck in the side. The right point To put a length of 12-15 cm (for all sizes) and put a dot the length of the tuck. Down along the side cut from the same points put 4 cm, what will be the value of the solution tucks. Put a point K2. Connect the dots g and K2 with a ruler.

Once you've built a drawing, you can begin to tell. If fabric width is 75-80 cm, you need to take two lengths of the shirt and add 5-8 cm If the fabric has a width of 60 cm, you will need two lengths of shirts plus 6-8 cm plus the length of the wedge.

Fold the material lengthwise face inward. Lay the pattern back and front of the shirt means to bend the fabric so that their shoulder seams were directed to meet each other (Fig. 69).
 

Fig. 69. Layout of patterns on fabric and cutting shirts with cap shoulders

Mark the seam and hem the bottom. Then cut slanting or Podkayne piping with a width of 2.5–3 cm, you need to handle the neck and armholes.

For sewing shirts used as underwear lapped seam. First sew to the bottom wedges, slices sapacheva main part. Then sew shoulder seams of a shirt (they should be tapasivat back).

Pre-prepared or oblique podkralas the facing treat the neck. You can also use the lace facing. Then sew the side sections, sapacheva them to the back, and treat the underarm as well as neckline for the neck. The bottom of the shirt hem seam itagiba with a shut cut.