The drawing of the skirt with circular folds (Fig. 93) you will need to take the following measurements (in cm):
(76);
— (106);
Du (70).
In addition, it is necessary to consider allowances for free customized fit:
— F (increase in waist line) is 2 cm;
— PB (the gain at the hips) — 4 cm
Fabric for skirt should be taken in such a way that its width was enough for three full circumference of hips with the addition of free customized fit and seam and the fit and length — length skirts plus 4-7 cm. While the narrower the fabric, the greater must be the allowance (20-30 cm). If the fabric is wide, the allowance will be sufficient 5-10 cm.
Width of each fold at the hips is 3-7 cm, and the depth of 6-14 cm in Order to correctly calculate the number of pleats, you need to divide the width of the skirt at the hip line on the width of the folds: (+ PB) : 5 = (106 + 4) : 5 = 22.
Calculating the desired width of the fabric, baste all panels. At a distance of 18-20 cm from upper edge, draw a line of hips. Mark on it the location points of the folds. To do this, step back from the edge of 1cm (the seam allowance), aside from the point half the depth of the folds, from the width folds, then the full depth, width again, and etc. are Done selecting the half of the depth of the pleats and seam allowance 1 cm (Fig. 94).
Fig. 94. The markup on fabric
Sew all the panels except the last seam. Sametime and hem the bottom, not reaching 8-10 cm to Nesmachnyi sections of panels.
Reduce the depth of the folds along the hem of 1 cm on each side. Draw a crease line from a point 1 cm through the marked on the hip line point. If you have done the markings on the reverse side of the fabric, sew a line of stitches folds cushioning.
Lay pleats from the hip line to bottom (front side) and Sametime them. Then lay the pleats from the hip line to the waist and priutyuzhte. If the width of the cloth at the waist more than is required (full circumference waist with the addition of free customized fit), spread the rest on the depth of each fold at the waist. Sametime pleats from waist line to the hip line and priutyuzhte them through a cloth soaked in a weak solution of vinegar. Then astrocyte folds and remove the basting. Sew the last seam and hem the bottom to finish. Treat the zipper, sew the waistband.
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