There are many forms of casual dress. But any of them you can develop on the basis of drawing a direct classic dresses with vtachnoy sleeve. Therefore, the drawing and made it pattern are called basic.

To build the grid and the drawing (Fig. 103), you need the following data (in cm):

— Posh (18);
— ПоГ1 (44,5);
— ПоГ2 (48);
Pot (38);
— Def (52);
— DPL (13);
— DR (35-58);
— OR (30-25-17);
— LSR (17,5);
— PSHP (control) (20);
— DST (42);
— GPR (21);
— DB (21);
— the UPU (41,5/37);
— ПШГ1 (control) (17);
— PSB (22-30);
— CB (9,5);
— VG (27);
— DPT (44);
— DSP (8-36);
— Runway (24-35);
Du (70).

Allowances for free customized fit (in cm):

— PG — 4 (including RLS — 1, PSP — 2,5, PSHP — 0,5);
— PT — 4;
— PB — 2;
— Then, — 5;
— Pdst — 0,5;
— Pgpr — 2 3;
— Psrg — 1.
 

Fig. 103. Basic drawing dresses and the back and front; b — armhole; — the height of the openings;

Mesh. Draw a straight angle with vertex at point a and the parties directed to the right and down.

Line the middle of the back vertical side of the angle.

Line the base of the neck at the shoulder seam of the back — horizontal side of the angle.

The waist line. From the top of the angle of the line mid-back put cut, of equal measure the length of the back to the waist with the addition of free customized fit to the length of the back. Label the resulting point of the letter T from it and spend a horizontal line to the right.

The line of the chest. From point A through the middle of the back put a period equal to the measure of the depth of the armhole with the addition of free customized fit.

Put a point G, and swipe from it by a horizontal line to the right.

Line of the hips. From T point down the line the middle of the back put a period equal to half the measurements of the length of the back to the waist minus 1 cm Denote the resulting point by the letter B, and swipe from it by a horizontal line to the right.

The bottom line is. From T point down the line the middle of the back put a period equal to the length of the skirt. Place the H-point and swipe from it by a horizontal line to the right.

Line the middle of the front. To the right of point G put a horizontal line equal to the measure of the second poluobhvat chest with the addition of free customized fit at the chest line. Put a point G1 and swipe through it a vertical line. The point of intersection with waist label T1 line BAA der B1, bottom line is — H1.

The distance from the points on the line of the backrest to corresponding points on the line of the front — width grid drawings.

Line the base of the neck at the shoulder seam of the front. From point T1 up through the middle of the front set aside a period equal to the measure of the length of the front to the waist with the addition of free customized fit to the length of the back to the waist. Mark the resulting point A1 and swipe from it by a horizontal line to the left.

The line bounding the width of the back. From point G on the chest put a period equal to the measure of the width of the back with the addition of free customized fit to the width of the back. Check point and restore from it perpendicular to the line of the base of the neck at the shoulder seam of the back. The resulting point mark the letter a.

The width of the openings. From the point C to the right on the chest put a period equal to 1/3 of the girth measurements of arms with the addition of free customized fit to the width of the armhole plus 0.5 cm Denote the resulting point by the letter P.

the line bounding the width of the front. From point P the guide perpendicular to the line of the base of the neck at the shoulder seam of the front. The resulting point indicate the letter A1. Measure the period of PG1 (half the width of the front). It needs to be equal to half the width of the bust plus the increase in free fit to the width of the front minus 2 cm or half of the second width of the breast with the addition of free customized fit to the width of the front.

Line of the side sections. Divide in half the width of the openings and mark the point of division letter K From point K draw a vertical line to the hip line. The resulting point label with the letter b.

Back. Line the middle. To the right of the T point at the waist put a segment of length 1.5 cm (this value may vary depending on the shape of the dress, the degree of fit and the presence of a seam in the middle) and put the point T. If you want to make the back piece, draw a line mid-on the line from point P1 (see Rostock) through the point T to the bottom line. If on the back is a seam, draw a line mid-point projection of the blades are marked with the letter L (to locate this point, divide in half cut Р1Г and from the points of division down put 2 cm).The intersection of the sloping lines with the middle line of the hips indicate B2, the bottom line is — H2.

The waist line. From point t draw a line perpendicular to the sloping lines of the middle. The point of intersection with the line side of the slice label T2.

Sprout. From point A on the base of the neck from shoulder seam postpone the cut is about 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm (this will be the width of Rostock), and set point R. From point A through the middle of the postpone cut is about 1/3 of the length of the segment AP (depth of Rostock), and set point P1. Connect the points P and P1 of a smooth concave line.

The height of the shoulder. From point t the Sa guide to a straight cut, of equal measure oblique shoulder height back with the addition of free customized fit to the length of the back to the waist. The point of intersection of this segment with a direct Sa designate by the letter p.

the Shoulder cut. Connect the points P and p construction line and extend the line to the right. From point R on this line put a period equal measure the shoulder length plus 1.5–3.5 cm (this will be the solution tuck), and set point P1.

From a point P on the auxiliary direct set aside a period equal to 1/3 the length of the shoulder. From the resulting point down draw a vertical line. Put it 8-10 cm (the length of the tuck). Point 8-10 cm (center tuck) shift to the left by 0.5 cm, but the beginning of her shift at 0.5 cm above the point marked on the auxiliary line of the shoulder cut. With a ruler connect the obtained point by point R.

From the first side tuck under the support line of the shoulder cut put the value of the solution tucks and connect the obtained point by point 8-10 cm This will be the second side of the tuck. With a ruler connect the start point of the second side tuck point P1 (edge of shoulder).

Armhole. Divide the cut SP into 3 parts. From the bottom of the dividing point up put a segment of length 2 cm and place the point C1. Draw a bisector of the angle С1СП and mark on it a segment equal to 1/5 of the width of the armhole plus 0.5 cm the resulting point label C2. Connect the points P1, C1, C2 and a smooth concave line.

Side cut. Calculate the difference between the width of the drawing at the waist line sloping from the middle of the back to the line of mid front and poluobhvat waist with the addition of free customized fit at the waist. Found the difference between the sum of the solutions of Darts at the waist line. In the side seam you need to remove 2/5 the amount of solutions tucks — 1/5 on the back and on the front. Put on the waist line point, limiting the solution side tuck on the back, and label it T2 (Т2т2 = 1/5).

Calculate the difference between poluobhvat hips with the addition of free customized fit at the hip line and length on the hip line sloping from the middle line back to the line of mid front.

To the right of point b on the line of the hips put a period equal to half of the difference obtained. Put the point B1.

To the right of point N2 of the bottom line put the cut equal to the width of the back at the hips (if you want to make the silhouette of the dress is a bit flared, put a cut equal to the width of the back at the hip line plus 2-5 cm), put a point H3.

Connect the dots B1 and N3 on the line, B1 and T2 — smooth convex line, and T2 and again on the line.

The bottom slice. Connect the dots D2 and D3 the straight line perpendicular to the sloping lines of the middle.

Tuck on the waist line. Divide in half cut HS — the width of the back at the chest. Denote the resulting point by letter and from this point, draw up the hip line a construction line parallel to the sloping lines of the middle. Find 1/5 the amount of solution Darts at the waist and add 1 cm This is the solution tuck. Set aside half the values on the waist line on both sides of the auxiliary lines. The length of the Darts should not reach the chest 2 cm to the line of thighs — 4-5 see Complete side tuck straight lines.

Before. The waist line. Find the difference between the standards of length to the waist front and length of back to waist. If it is more than 4 cm, lower waist line 0.5–1 cm

Neck. From point A1 through the base of the neck from shoulder seam put the cut equal to the width of Rostock. Put the point B. the line from the middle point A1 set aside a period equal to half of poluobhvat neck minus 1 cm Put the point B1. Points In the B1 and connect the auxiliary line. Divide the line in half and from the dividing point to restore the perpendicular length of 1.5 cm Connect the dots, 1.5 cm, and B1 a smooth concave line.

Shoulder tuck. From the point G1 on the chest put a period equal to the measure of the center of the bust plus 0.5 cm select the point d and with a ruler connect it to the point B. From a point on the obtained straight put a period equal to the measure of the height of the chest (tuck), and set point G1.

To the left from point b through the base of the neck from shoulder seam put a period equal to twice the difference between the measurements of the first and second poluobhvat breast plus 2. Label the resulting point B2. With a ruler connect the points B2 and G1. This will be the second side of the tuck. Align its length with the length from the center of the first side tuck-up. You have to put v3.

Shoulder cut. From point B3, draw a arc of radius equal to the measure of the length of the shoulder, and from point G1 to a radius equal to the measure of the height of the shoulder of the front. At the intersection of these arcs put a point P2. Connect it with the point B3 with a ruler. The point of intersection of the shoulder cut with the line bounding the width of the front, and the label L3.

Armhole. Divide into 4 pieces cut to FG3. Label the lower point of division A1 and connect it with the point P2 of the auxiliary line. From the middle cut obtained П1п2 left restore the normal length of 0.5–1 cm.

Draw a bisector of the angle П1ПК and mark on it a segment equal to 1/5 of the width of the openings. Put a point P2. Connect the dots P2, 0.5–1 cm, R1, R2 and a smooth concave line.

The side cut. Arrange as well as side cut of the back, by putting respectively the point T4, B2 and H4. Align its length with the length of the side cut of the back.

The bottom slice. The line will connect the end point side of the slice with the point H1.

Tuck on the waist line. From the point G1 (of the center tuck) to the hip line guide auxiliary line parallel to the middle of the front. Solution tuck is 2/5 of the amount of solutions tucks at the waist minus 1 cm. On either side of the auxiliary line postpone for half the values. The length of the Darts should not reach the center of the shoulder Darts at 2-4 cm to the hip line — 3-4 cm will Make the side Darts below the waist straight lines above the waist line is slightly curved.

Sleeve. Draw a straight angle with vertex at point a and the parties directed to the right and down.

Rear cut — vertical side of the angle.

The bottom line is. From point A on the line of the rear cut put the cut, of equal measure the full length sleeves. Denote the resulting point by the letter H and spend from it by a horizontal line to the right.

The line bounding the height of the crown. The height of the crown is equal to the average height of the openings minus 1.5–2.5 cm

to determine the average height of the openings, connect the auxiliary straight edge of the shoulder in the drawing, back and front, and then measure the distance from the middle of the obtained straight line to the chest line. From point A on the rear cut put the cut equal to the height of the top part. Put a dot and swipe from it by a horizontal line to the right.

The line of the elbow. From point A on the line of the rear cut put the cut, of equal measure-length sleeves to the elbow. Put a point L, and swipe from it by a horizontal line to the right.

The front slice. From the point And put a horizontal line equal to the measure of the circumference of the hand with a raise on the free fit to girth hands (this is the width of the sleeves). Put a dot A1 and a swipe of her vertical line. The point of intersection of this line with the line bounding the height of the crown, mark A1, with the line of the elbow — L1, with the bottom line — H1.

Line the middle. We split the segment AA1. Put the point (center of crown), and make it a vertical line down. The point of intersection with the line of the bottom of the label H2.

Line the front of the bend. Divide in half the width of the front part of the sleeve (cut ОА1). Designate a point of division A1, and slide it a vertical line down.

Line elbow. Divide in half the width of the rear of the sleeve (segment OA). Designate a point of dividing the O2 and drive it a vertical line down.

The front part of the crown. Connect the auxiliary line point O and A1. The intersection of the auxiliary line and the front end fold label O3. Divide in half cut ОО3 and from the point of dividing up, restore the normal length of 1.5 cm and Then divide in half cut О3а1 and from the points of division drop a perpendicular of length 2.5 cm Connect the dots About 1,5 cm, O3, 2.5 cm and A1 smooth curve.

The rear part of the crown. Connect auxiliary line of a point O and a. The intersection of the auxiliary line with the line of elbow mark O4. From this point up the line of the elbow put a segment of length 1.5 cm Split in half the period-4 and the point of dividing up, swipe to the perpendicular length of 2 cm, Divide into 3 parts cut О4а and mark the points of division of figures I and II. From the point I drop a perpendicular length of 0.7–1 see Connect the dots About 2 cm, 1.5 cm, II, 0,7–1 cm and a smooth curve.

The lower section. Shorten the front line fold 1 cm from hem line and elbow extend at the 1 see Connect the dots H 1 cm h 2, 1 cm and H1 a smooth curve.