On the basis of drawing  a classic skirt you can make patterns all straight skirts (with pockets, wraparound, pleated, pleated, pleated, yoke, elevation, etc.).
To build the mesh drawing of this skirt (Fig. 74) you will need the following measurements (in cm):
— Perspiration (38);
— POB (53);
Du (72);
— DP (70);
— DS (71);
— DST (42).
You also need to make allowances for free customized fit (in cm):
— PT (increase of waist line) — 1 cm;
— PB (the gain at the hips) — 2 cm
Mesh. Line the middle of the back of the cloth. Put in the upper left corner of the sheet point So Swipe it a vertical line down.
The bottom line is. From point T through the middle of the back of the cloth put a period equal to the length of skirt from waist in the back. Denote the resulting point by the letter H and spend from it by a horizontal line to the right.
Line of the hips. From point T through the middle of the back of the cloth put a segment whose length should be equal to half the length of the back to the waist minus 1 cm (in this case 21 cm). Denote the resulting point by the letter B, and swipe from it by a horizontal line to the right.
Line the middle of the front panel. From point B on the line of the hips put a period equal to the poluobhvat hips with the addition to free fit at the hips. Put a point B1 and swipe through it a vertical line. At its intersection with the line of the bottom set point H1. Up from point H1 put a vertical line equal to the length of the front. The resulting point designate by the letter T1.
Line of the side sections. To the right of point B on the line of the hips put a period equal to half of poluobhvat hips with the addition of free customized fit minus 0.5–1 cm Check point B2 and swipe through it a vertical line. The point of intersection with the bottom line is indicate by the letter H2. From the point of H2 up put a vertical line equal to the length of the skirt. Denote the resulting point by the letter T2.
You can shift the line of the side sections towards the rear or front cloth. But if you are going to sew a skirt of small size or expanded down, a better to the width of the panels was the same.
Fig. 74. Drawing straight duhovnoi skirt
Front and rear cloth. The waist line. With a ruler connect the points T, T2 and T1.
Tuck. Pattern straight skirts duhovnoi involves three Darts. The sum of the solutions of all Darts must be equal to the difference between the width of the finished product at the hips and wide at the waist (in this case A = (POB + Pb) – (Pot + PT) = (53 + 2) – (38 + 1) = 16 cm).
Solution side tuck should be equal to half the sum of the solutions of Darts. Right and left of the point T2 is set aside for the segment, equal to half of the solution (4 cm), and place respectively, the points t and T1. With a ruler connect the points of the auxiliary lines with the point B2 and divide in half each of the resulting segments. From the points of division, restore the perpendiculars to the inside of the recesses (length of each perpendicular is 0.5–1 cm). Then connect the points t and T1 to a point spaced from the line of hips 1-2 cm, you should get the smooth concave lines with the bend points 0.5–1 cm
Solution back tuck should equal 1/3 of the sum of the solutions of Darts. To the right of the point T put a horizontal line equal to 1/4 poluobhvat hips minus 2 cm (i.e. 11 cm). Mark the resulting point T2. Down vertically from this point, an auxiliary guide line to the hip line, and right and left she put off by 2.7 cm (half of the solution tucks). Smooth concave line connect the dots of 2.7 cm with the point located 3-4 cm above the hip line.
Solution front tuck should equal 1/6 of the sum of the solutions of Darts. To the left of the point T1 put a horizontal line equal to 1/4 poluobhvat hips minus 1, see Check point T3, and swipe it a construction line to the hip line. Right and left of the point T3 set aside by 1.7 cm (half of the solution tucks). Connect the resulting points with the point located at 6-8 cm above the hip line, with a ruler.
The side sections. If you are going to sew absolutely straight skirt, a rear width of the cloth hem should be equal to the width at the hip line. You can also make the skirt a bit extended. In this case, the width of the cloth back hem should be at the 2-6 cm more than the width at the hip line. Following this rule, put the point H3 at a distance of 2-6 cm to the right of point N2 and connect it with the point B2 with a ruler (in the case of a straight skirt connect point B2 from point D2).
Front width of the cloth hem at straight skirt should also equal the width at the hip line and slightly extended 3-4 cm more. To the left of the point N2 of the bottom line put 3-4 cm, put a dot H4 and with a ruler connect it with the point B2.
The upper cut. Decorate it with a slight bend at the closed tuck. If the width of your chosen fabric is 140 cm, it would only take one length skirt plus 5-8 cm In width of 80-100 cm you will need two lengths of skirt and 10-15 cm
Fig. 75. Cutting straight duhovnoi silhouette: a — back panel; — front panel; — increase the clearance of the upper edge grosgrain braid
Fold the material lengthwise face inward. Lay the pattern back and front panels, means to fold tissue (Fig. 75). Make allowances for seams and hemming the bottom. Note that closure (16-20 cm) must be located on the left side.
Tuck in the seam allowance at the upper edge, mark vertical lines. Route copy the seam along the contour lines of the pattern. Mark the middle of the front and rear panels of the intermediate stitches. Then baste the Darts. Secure with pins the side sections and baste them. Do not forget that the left hand should leave from 16 to 20 cm at the clasp.
Baste to upper cut the grosgrain ribbon (belt). After the first fitting, it should be noted all changes in the fit. Sew Darts. At the end of the pinch line no atuite the resulting slack of the fabric.
Sew and sewn the side sections. After this process the closure and upper edge, hem the bottom. Then outwrite the product and sew the hooks and eyes.
This model can be modified by running the sides, not large incisions.
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