To suit (Fig. 118) you will need a wool or gabardine with a length of 155 cm and a width of 150 cm and a finishing fabric with scalloped both edges with length 180 cm and width 90 cm fabric lining with a length of 125 cm and a width of 140 cm, 405 G interlining, buttons, shoulder pads.

Sewing jacket

jacket Length 46 -th size on the back is 63 cm

Vykroyte piping and lining separately. Obrazkami call for more details cut, which is required to seal lines, armhole, neckline, etc. When cutting of the part number. Do the first cutting of the main fabric.

As patterns take your basic pattern. Tuck put in the line of the armhole. Shelves make a cut at the waist and apply a contoured line.

After cutting the fabric you should have the following number of parts.

Main fabric:

— shelf — 2 items;
— back — 1 folded detail;
— facing neckline — 1 detail-fold;
peplum shelves — 2 items;
— the facing — 2 details;
peplum back — 1 folded detail;
— a facing — 1 folded detail;
— the upper part of sleeve — 2 details;
the lower part of sleeve — 2 details.

Finishing cloth:

— shelf — 2 items;
— peplum shelves — 2 items;
— trim peplum backless a — 2 halves;
— upper sleeve — 2 details;
the lower part of sleeve — 2 details.

From the finishing of the fabric parts you cut it by the same pattern, that of the main.

Both halves finishing lining cut it out with scalloped.

When cutting parts of the fabric run allowances: seams 1.5 cm, on ACC bottom — 3 cm

pattern shelves, backless and peplum vykroyte lining. Cutting out lining run minus the width of podborov and obrazek.

Cutting of sleeve will perform with seam and hem 1.5 cm wide

processing Sequence

1. Keen on details and finishing from cloth on the details of the main fabric. All others do on these parts as on a single layer.

Observe the order of precedence in stitching seams.

2. Sew Darts on shelves and on the back, and then shoulder and side seams.

3. Unscrew the front cap of podborta shelves and sew to the facing of the neckline backless. Pure witchita the neck with podborany and facing.

4. Half lace piping sew, that is, use the rear middle seam. Put trim on the peplum on the back and Topstitch at the scalloped edges.

5. Sew side seams at peplum and Oblachko. Pure witchita peplum on obrazkami at the front and lower sides.

Pristrochite peplum to the lower sections of the shelves and backs, and without interrupting the lines, pristrochite peplum shift to podborta shelves.

On the right shelf on the right podborta shelves leave marks between the transverse hinge holes.

Ratatouille seam. Stitch the edges of the holes manually is the future hinges. Will attrocity edge of the jacket at a distance of 0.5 cm.

6. Fold the right sides of the top part of the sleeves and pull the front sections with the damp cloth and iron. Pull so that the front sections coincided with the length of the respective sections of the lower parts. Sew front seam of sleeve. The upper part of the sleeve will pripasayte. Hem the sleeve. Will pripasayte sleeves on crown and vacate them into the openings.

7. Jacket connect with lining. Mimetite on the right shelf in the marked places remaining buttonholes.

Tailoring skirts

For the skirt (length 72 cm) need a wool or gabardine with a length of 90 cm and a width of 150 cm, finishing the blade with the scallops left over from cutting parts for jacket, lining fabric length of 80 cm and 140 cm wide strips for the belt, 1 zipper 20 cm long, 1 button.

From the basics of drawing, cut out the pattern pieces skirt:

— front panel — 1 folded detail;
back panel — 2 details;
belt length 87 cm, including 3 cm allowance under the clasp, and a width of 6 cm In the finished belt has a width of 3 cm.

Cutting and finishing fabric. This is an internal detail under the fold length of 21 cm and a width of 10 cm Follow when cutting allowances: seams 1.5 cm, on hem of bottom is 4 cm the Bottom edge of the strap under the fold calculate so that it coincided with the scalloped finishing of the canvas.

Vykroyte lining pattern front and rear panels of the skirt. A paper pattern of the cloth back on the crease for cutting lining, tuck through the middle of the back. Will ukroyte lining with seam and hem the bottom (1.5 cm).

The processing sequence

1. Sewing start with the rear cloth skirts. Sew middle seam of the cloth back between the mark slit for zipper and cross label.

Baste the pleat below the cross marks. Ratatouille the depth of the folds and seam. Remove the basting.

2. Sew Darts and side seams. Vsheyte the braid and the zipper.

3. Sew the side seams and Darts on the lining. Attach the lining to the skirt wrong side to each other.

Baste the top slices. On the clasp tuck the lining and sew to zipper braid. Run the belt.

4. Skirt hem. Proutyuzhte folds the folds in the ACC. Put the bar under the fold from the wrong side of the skirt to the depth of the pleats and sew them on longitudinal sections. Pristrochite bar across the top to the depth of the folds.

5. Hem the lining so that its length was 2 cm shorter than the skirt length.

The lining that lies at the placket pleats, cut out a rectangle, given the allowances. Then tuck and sew the sections of the bar.