This model of dress has been for many years, despite the vagaries of changing fashion, is very popular with the ladies (Fig. 121). Original cut makes the figure much slimmer and visually reduces waist and hips. This model of dress can be the basis for further modeling products. The clasp can be hidden in the seam of the back, want to add pockets, that will make the dress not only original, but also functional.
Draw patterns
First, build a drawing of the back. Lay on the table drawing patterns basics dresseswith indicated on it points. As a drawing, use the base curve of the back and shelves.
From the point A4 to the right of the line of inclination of the shoulder, measure half the shoulder length: DP : 2 = 13 : 2 = 6.5 cm and label it point R. For making patterns on the size of take your own measurements.
Newly received point R, connect with the point m1 at the waist line with a dotted line. Divide the segment in half perpendicular from the dividing point to the left, measure 0.5 cm Outline slightly concave shaped line.
To the right of the point P on the line of the slope of the shoulder, measure 1.5 cm and mark the point P1. Descend the rounded lines 8-9 cm and place the point P2. Connect the points P1 and P2 of a smooth concave line. Lower the top of the back tuck to raised lines and connect it with point m2 of the concave line, without changing the locations and depths of the Darts in the skirt.
For drawing shaped lines when building the front of the dress from the front, measure from the point A6 to the left of the line of inclination of the shoulder half the length of the shoulder and put the point P3.
Connect the newly obtained point with the highest point of the chest (C) a straight line. Measure the depth of the tuck А12А11 and with a radius equal to this value, from point P3 note the arc on the line of inclination of the shoulder of the front. Newly acquired point indicate the point P4. Point P4 connect a straight line from the high point of the chest (C). Continue in a straight line to the point m5 the beginning of the relief lines Р3Ц.
The top of the lapel Darts to move the lines. From the tops of the Darts on the skirt drop a perpendicular to the bottom line. Do not change locations and depth of the tucks on the skirt. Vertical reliefs will continue to line the bottom of the dress front and back or front only.
The sleeve of this model of dress is a little shorter than the standard. To obtain the pattern shorter sleeve main measure from the highest point of the crown down to the desired length. If desired the sleeve above the elbow, a cut line on the pattern, mark the horizontal line. If the sleeve is longer than the desired core, a cutting line guide line on the bottom of the main sleeve.
Layout of patterns on fabric
Note the location of the individual parts relative to the fold line of the fabric and the thread direction of the fabric. Each style requires its own special balance of detail on the fabric, it may change depending on the width of the fabric, pattern, pile, etc. in the scenario, consider the position of patterns relative to the grain lines of the fabric.
In the drawing, number the items and cut them out along the contour lines. Sidewall patterns, when one piece overlaps another, cut a zigzag pattern. Side tuck cut. The middle of the front place on fold of fabric, and a line mid-back — on share thread. Line the highest point of the crown of the sleeves will also get to share thread. Save fabric in the layout, permitting the figure.
Cutting
Piping and podkraj necks are cut so that they repeated the shape of the cutout gate products. The width of obrazek and pokraev — 5-7 cm To perform the cutting of these parts transfer on a tracing paper and place onto the fabric. When you do this, be sure to keep the direction of the threads laid out details.
Where the seams are zig-zag cut, connect extreme vertical segments of a straight line. After nesting on the fabric mark the chalk lines in the seam: the line of the neck and arm openings — 1-1,5 cm, along the lines of the shoulder — 2-3 cm, along the lines of the bottom sleeve — 3-4 cm, hem straight dress — 3-5 cm Cut details on the planned lines.
The processing sequence
1. The seam on the back, and the distance between the breast and the inframammary Darts on the run with no reserve to the seam. In these areas baste from the wrong side of the pieces of fabric with a width of 3 cm and a length of 7-9 cm for the relief of the front. For relief of back baste the pieces of fabric with a length of 9-12 cm Lay on the front side of the fabric machine line by line elevation a little above and below the tops of the Darts. Remove the basting and baste the reliefs, having sewn the pieces of fabric for the seam. Remove the "traps" and lay the machine stitch close to the basting.Between the tops of the Darts machine line lay close to the line of the stitched strips of fabric. Zautyuzhte seams towards the middle of the front.
2. Baste and sew the shoulder seams and Ratatouille them.
3. During the processing of the neck of obrazkami baste and sew the side seams of obrazek. Seams Ratatouille. Through the middle of the back pry off the stock weld on the "snare" on the reverse side of the fabric on the front side and pin to pin to the product. Lay on the neck line of the dress, right sides facing the inside of the neck and pin along the lines of the middle of the front shoulder and in several places of the neck. Align and baste "the snare" from the main part. The engine line will do the facing.Prune, if necessary, the seam margin to 0.7 cm and make the notch, not dorezaya to the engine lines and 0.1–0.15 cm Topstitch the facing on the margin of the seam, so it does not turn out on the front side of the product. Between stitching and seam podkraj connection with the product, maintain a distance of 0.1–0.15 cm
4. Fold the facing into wrong side, mimetite roll from the piping with a width of 0.1 cm slightly proutyuzhte Seam and remove the basting. Align the unfastened edge of the piping and sewn through edge.
5. Rare free hidden stitches to attach the facing to the product in 5-7, refer To the back of the stock seam attach facing to seam "goat".
6. Place the thread loop on the right side of the fastener, and on the left-hand sew a small button under the fabric colour of the product.
7. Baste and sew the side seams, Ratatouille them. Baste and sew the bottom seams of the sleeves. Ratatouille all the seams. Stock seam sleeve hem, first fold on the wrong side of the snare and Sametime bend. Fold again the bottom slice, Sametime and a hidden hem stitch.
8. Hem the bottom of dress and sleeves vsheyte.
The model can be run with a deep neckline.
|