All calculations of cutting the Trouser suit is made in the 46th size. Therefore, in the preparation of drawing fundamentals for the pattern, use their standards, and for drawing shaped lines use the rules of magazine design. To sew this costume (Fig. 137) prepare 3.1 m of fabric with a width of 1.4 m, 1 m fabric for the collar trimming, 1.5 m lining fabric with a width of 1.4 m, interlining N 180, spacer for belt, one with a zipper 20 cm long, 1 button suit, 2 buttons for jacket, shoulder pads.
Cut parts of the pattern from the prepared drawing of the base with applied shaped lines. Number them and do the layout of patterns on fabric (Fig. 138). Vykroyte burlap pocket as a separate item.
Pants
the I — front half — 2 details, burlap pocket — 2 details;
II — lateral part of the front half, telekrona with burlap pocket — 2 details;
III — back half — 2 details;
IV — the left side of the belt with a length of 45 cm (3 cm allowance under the clasp); the right side of the belt with a length of 42 cm, each piece with a width of 6 cm, finished 3 cm;
V — 4 belt loops for belt, each with a length of 5 and width of 6 cm, finished 3 cm;
Jacket
VI — shelf, telekrona with the lower collar — 2 details;
VII — back — 2 details;
VIII — side part — 2 details;
IX — podbot, one-piece upper collar — 2 details;
X — upper sleeve — 2 details;
XI — the lower part of sleeve — 2 details.
Make allowances at the seams (1.5 cm) and hem (4 cm). Vykroyte without allowances of the front sides of the side portions of the front halves, tselnokrajnie with burlap pocket, marked on the drawing "left edge" and "right edge". Places shaded in the drawing, strengthen the gasket. Additionally the gasket to the priutyuzhte allowances on the hem of the bottom of the side portions and parts of the back of the jacket.
Vykroyte lining pattern of the shelves (minus the width of podborta), backrest (fold and crease the depth of 2 cm in the middle), side parts and sleeves with seam and hem 1.5 cm wide pants Start sewing from the front of the front halves. Lay pleats on the front halves, and then Sametime in half and attrocity. Baste belt loops to upper sections of the front pants over pleats, and back over the seams of the Darts.
Vsheyte the zipper, and then sew the waistband. Sew front middle seam of the label cut down. Finish line a little higher before reaching the stepper seams. Zautyuzhte cap piping cut on the wrong side of the bend lines.
Is placed under the seam allowance under the cut ribbons zipper and pristrochite it. In this position the teeth closely to the bend. Cleave the slit. Free webbing zipper pin to the facing the other side of the slit and pristrochite, not grabbing the front half. Will attrocity the front half along the marked line, taking obtachku. Sew belt detail to the upper sections of the pants. Leave allowance under the clasp of the belt protruding beyond the edge of the seam allowance under the cut of the pants.
Sew belt detail to the upper sections of the pants. Fold in half lengthwise and witchita front of the short side and seam allowance under the zipper. Tuck and sew the inner halves of the parts of the waistband to the seams primaqiune. Then sew the remaining nextchannel plot of the middle front seam to the upper edge of the belt. The line is not cut off and sew portion of the rear middle seam to the top of the belt. Loosen up the belt loops, tuck and pristrochite to the upper edge of the belt. Mimetite on the belt loop for the button. Hem pants, Tutuila hands.
Tailoring of the jacket start with back. Sew the middle seam. Sew the side pieces to the back and the shelves. Sew shoulder seams. Make crosscuts in the corners between the shoulder and cap of the lower collar. Vacate in the neck back of the lower collar. Fold podborta the jacket, right sides together and pin podborta and collar.
Witchita the bottom of shelves, sides and collar. Lay the back lower section of the upper collar over the seam of vrachevanie the bottom of the collar to the neckline of the back and stitch with the front side of the jacket exactly in the seam of vrachevanie the bottom of the collar. The bottom sides and back hem.
Sew podborta to the hem of the bottom side parts and to the shoulder seams. Do the double seam sewing sleeves. First pripasayte sleeves on top part, and then vacate them into the openings. Sew the shoulder pads. Connect the jacket with lining. On both shelves mimetite one loop for buttons. Connect buttons "leg" of thread length of 5 cm and thread through the loop.
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