If for sewing this skirt you chose worsebuy matter, fabric border or one-way direction in the drawing, it is better to cut it at the pattern pre-drawn wedge. In order to build a drawing of the wedge, you will need the following measurements (in cm):

(76);

— (106);

Du (70).

Allowances for free customized fit for all sizes are the same:

— PT (increase around the waist) — 2 cm;

— PB (the gain at the hips) — 2 cm


mid-Line. In the middle of a sheet of paper near the top, put the point T. from this point, draw a vertical line downwards (Fig. 100).


The waist line. Swipe through point T horizontal line.


The bottom line is. From a point T on the line of the middle set aside a period equal to the length of the skirt. Denote the resulting point by the letter N and swipe through it by a horizontal line.


Line of the hips. From a point T on the line of the middle set aside a length of 18-20 cm. Place a point B and swipe through it by a horizontal line.


The upper cut. Divide the measure of waist girth with the addition of free customized fit with 6 (the number of wedges in the skirt). The left and right of the point T in the waistline put on half this value. Put respectively the points t and T1. From point T down put the cut length of 0.5–1 cm t Point, 0.5–1 cm and T1 connect smooth concave line.


The side sections. Divide the measure of circumference of hips with the addition of free customized fit to the number of wedges in the skirt. The left and right of point B on the line of the hips set aside half of the obtained value. Put, respectively, point b and B1. With a ruler connect the points t and b, T1 and B1. Extend these lines to the bottom line, denoting the intersection points by the letters H1 and H2. Areas of TB and т1б1 make smooth curved line with a curvature of 0.5 cm in the middle of


the Lower section. It will make a smooth curved line.

If fabric width is 60-70 cm, you will need three lengths of wedge plus 10-12 cm For fabric 90 cm wide to take two wedge length plus 7-10 cm With a width of 140 cm it would only take one wedge length plus 4-5 cm

best consistently put the pattern on the flattened fabric in opposite directions (Fig. 101). Such cutting would be the most economical. However, for pile fabric and fabric with a distinct orientation of the pattern such method is not suitable. In this case, you need to put the pattern in one direction, and the fabrics will need more on the length of the wedge. Make allowances for seams and hemming the bottom.

You can also make a skirt with six seams at the markings on the fabric. This method of cutting should be chosen for dyed fabric or fabric with versatile directional pattern. Only in this case the sewn wedges not differ from each other.


The width of the wedge at the waist. Divide the measure of waist girth to the number of wedges and add 3 cm: 76 : 6 + 3 = 16 cm


Width of the wedge at the hips. Divide the measure of circumference of hips with the addition of free customized fit to the number of wedges, and add 3 inches: (+4) : 6 + 3 = 21 see


the Bevel side of the cut wedge. Multiply the width of the wedge at the waist on the number of wedges, to cut out from one piece of cloth: 16 x 3 = 48. The remainder of the tissue divide by the number of wedges plus 1: 48 : (3 + 1) = 12 see


the Width of the wedge at the bottom. Add to the width of the wedge at the waist two values of the bevel of the side cut: 16 + 12 x 2 = 40 cm

If the width of the fabric is 90-100 cm, you will need two skirt length plus 10 cm

, Expand fabric and place it wrong side up. From the left edge to the upper cut put the size of the bevel side of the cut wedge, and from it the width of the wedge at the waist and again, the size of the bevel. On the bottom slice put the width of the wedge at the bottom of it — the width at the waist and again the width of hem. With a ruler connect all the points obtained from slice to slice (Fig. 102).

Measure the width of the wedge at the hip line and make sure that it is not less calculated values. Decorate the top slices in wedges smooth concave lines with a bend in the middle 1 cm.

Raskroyu fabric, then align the side sections of the gusset: measure the length of the wedge in the middle and put the same cut on the side cut from the waist.

Secure the wedges with pins at intervals of 10-15 cm and Then sweeps them from the waist down and sew. One of the seams should not reach the upper edge on 16-20 see Treat the clasp.

Treat the upper section of a belt or grosgrain ribbon.

Guide fitting, in which line the bottom. Nadsekite and Ratatouille bent the lower sections. After that, hem the bottom, or the side zautyuzhte Ratatouille slices wedges and Tutuila skirt.