The drawing pattern blouse (Fig. 184) requires the following measurements (in cm):

1. Product length — CI (46).

2. Waist length — DT (32).

3. Shoulder width — SHS (16).

4. Poluobhvat neck — Posh (16,5).

5. Poluobhvat chest — Absorption (38).

6. Sleeve length — DR (50).

To measure TDG add 6 cm all calculations lead with this gain: running + 6 = 38 + 6 = 44 cm

Back. Draw a right angle with the vertex at point R.

the length of the blouse. Downward from the point R we can measure DI and set point N. Downward from the point R we can measure DT and put the point T.

the depth of the openings. Downward from the point R set aside 1/3 of the RM plus 2.5 cm and mark the point G: RG = RM : 3 + 2,5 = 44 : 3 + 2,5 = 17,2 see

In the left side of point d, T and H, draw a horizontal line of the chest, waist and bottom.

The width of the backrest. To the left from the point G lay aside the measure SHS plus 1 cm and place the point G1: ГГ1 = SHS + 1 = 16 + 1 = 17 cm

Up from point G1 in perpendicular guide line and a point of intersection with the horizontal line emerging from a point P, denote by the letter P.

the Width of the openings. To the left of point G1 will set aside 1/4 of the RM minus 1 cm and place the point G2: Г1Г2 = TDG : 4 – 1 = 44 : 4 – 1 = 10 see

Up from point G2 swipe a perpendicular line of arbitrary length.

Distance to the sideline. To the left of point G1 will put 4 cm and place the point of the G3. From the resulting point down swipe perpendicular and the point of its intersection with the horizontal line mark a point H1.

The width of Rostock. To the left from point R set aside 1/3 Posh plus 0.5 cm and put a point P1: PP1 = Posh : 3 + 0,5 = 16,5 : 3 + 0,5 = 6 see

Height. Up from point P1 set aside 1.5 cm and place the point P2. This point connect with the point P as shown in the drawing.

The slope of the shoulder. Down from point P set aside 2.5 cm and mark the point P1. Point P2 will connect the point P1 in a straight line, which then continue for 1 cm (for proposedi) put a dot P2.

Construction points of the armhole. First, from the point G1 put up 5 cm and place the point O.

Then, on the bisector of the angle Г1Г2П put 2 cm and place the point O1. After that, complete armhole, connect the dots G3, O1, O A2, as shown in the drawing.

The expansion of the bottom line. To the left of point H1 set aside 3 cm and mark the point N2. This point connect with the point G3 in a straight line. This will be the line side.

Before. The width of the blouse. To the left from the point G lay aside the TDG plus 6 cm and place the point G4: ГГ4 = RM + 6 = 38 + 6 = 44 cm 44 cm — the width of the blouse.

The length of the blouse. Through the obtained point G4 draw a vertical line and the point of intersection with the bottom line put the letter H3.

The height of the shelves. Up from point G4 postpone the cut, RG is equal to plus 2 cm, followed by a period P3: Г4Р3 = WG + 2 = 17,2 + 2 = 19,2 cm

to the Right of point P3 swipe straight line to the intersection with the perpendicular emerging from the point G2, put a point P4.

Mouth width. To the right of the point P3 set aside 1/3 Posh plus 0.5 cm and put R5: Р3Р5 = Posh : 3 + 0,5 = 16,5 : 3 + 0,5 = 6 see

the Width of the shoulder to tuck. To the right side from the point R5 set aside 4 cm and place the point P6.

The distance to the Darts at the breast line. To the right of the point G4 set aside a period equal to Р3Р6 minus 1.5 cm put a dot G5: Г4Г5 = Р3Р6 – 1,5 = 10 and 1.5 = 8.5 cm

the thus Obtained point connect point P6 straight line.

The slope of the shoulder. Down from point P6 postpone 1 cm and put a point P7, which connect a straight line with a point P5.

The tuck end. Up from point G5 put 5 cm and place the point G6. This point connect with the point P7 of the line, which will be the first line of the tuck.

The depth of the neck. Down from point P3 set aside 1/3 of the NSPs, plus 1.5 cm and place the point P8: Р3Р8 = Posh : 3 + 1,5 = 16,5 : 3 + 1,5 = 7 see

Next, decorate the neck. Point P8 connect with the point P7 a straight line. Down from point R5 draw a vertical line to the intersection with the straight Р7Р8 and at the point of their intersection set point O2. Out of the corner Р8О2Р5 draw a straight, dividing the angle in half, on this line put 0.7 cm and place the point O3. Point P8, O3 and R5 connect as shown in the drawing.

The depth of the tuck. To determine the depth of the tuck in the left side of the point P4 set aside 2.5 cm and set point P9. This point connect point G6 a straight line.

The length of the first line tuck (Р7Г6). Put this value up from the point G6 on the second line of the tuck and set point P10: Р7Г6 = Р10Г6.

The direction of the line of the shoulder. Point P10 connect point d with a dotted line.

Shoulder width of the front from armhole to tuck. From point P10 set aside a period equal to П2Р2 Р5Р7 minus minus 1 cm, and set point L3: Р10П3 = П2Р2 – Р5Р7 – 1.

The additional point. Up from point G2 set aside 5 cm and place the point O4. The bisector of the angle Р4Г2Г1 set aside 1.5 cm and place the point O5.

Point P3 and O4 connect by a straight line, divide it in half and in the middle put a dot in A6. From it at right angles to О4П3 put 0.5 cm and place the point O7. Then draw a line to the armhole of the front, connecting the dots between G3, O5, O4, O7, P3, as shown in the drawing.

The expansion of the bottom line. On the right side of the point H1 set aside 3 cm and put a point H4. This point connect with the point G3 in a straight line. Thus you get a line the sides.

The lengthening of the front. Down from the point H3 to set aside 2.5 cm and mark the point H5. The resulting point connect point H4.

The bottom line. Direct Н5Н4 divide in half and mark the middle of the h6. From this point at right angles to straight Н5Н4 postpone 1 cm and put a dot H7, after which point H5, H7, H4 connect a smooth line.

The design of the clasp. In the left side of the point P8 and N5 set aside for 2 cm and place the point H8 and R11. Plotting points connect the line, which will continue up to 1 cm, put the point P12. This point connect with the point P8 by a straight line.

Sleeve. Draw a straight angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 185).

Sleeve length. Down from the point And put the standards of the OTHERS and put in this place the H-point.

The height of the crown. Down from the point And put a 1/4 Linear (with gain) and put G: AG = Abs : 4 = 44 : 4 = 11 cm

Up from point G set aside 3 cm, put the point O.

the line of the elbow. Period HE split in half and in the middle put a point L. To the left of points G, L and N. draw a horizontal line the height of the crown, elbow and bottom of the sleeves.

The width of the upper part of the sleeve. To the left from point G set aside 1.5 width of the armhole plus 5 cm and place the point G1: ГГ1 = 10 +5 + 5 = 20 cm

Width of the bottom of the sleeve. To the left of the point G1 aside the width of the armhole of the dress and put a dot in G2: Г1Г2 = 10 cm.

Width front roll. To the right of point G put 6 cm and place the point of the G3. Points G2 and G3 swipe straight down perpendicular to the line of the bottom and put the point H1 and H2. Where the perpendicular intersects with the line of the elbow, put a point L1. Down from point G1 to the elbow and up to the crown to draw the line. The point of intersection with the line of elbow mark L2. Find the center of the crown. To do this, in the left side of the G-spot aside the width of the openings, and put a dot in G4: ГГ4 = 10 cm.

Up from point G4 swipe perpendicular line and the point of intersection with the horizontal line coming from point A, indicate the letter P. point Upward from the G4 set aside 3.5 cm and mark the point O1. The resulting point connect straight to the point O. This line will continue to the left until the intersection with the vertical line passing through the point G1, to put out O2.

Convexity of the crown. From the points O3 and O4 to line put at 1.3 cm and put the points O5 and O6, and then from point G on the bisector of the angle put 2 cm and place the point O7.

Further, from the point G1 on the bisector of the angle set aside 3.5 cm and mark the point A8. Fill in the top part, connect the dots G2, A8, O2, O6, P, P1, O5, O, A7 and G3, as shown in the drawing.

Line the bottom of the sleeves. To the right of the point L2 set aside 2.5 cm and set point L3. From this point down swipe perpendicular and the point of intersection of it with the underline mark H3. Down from the point H3 set aside 3 cm and put a point H4. Further down from the point D1 set aside 0.7 cm and place the point H5. Down from the point H2 is set aside 1 cm and place the point h6. Point N5, N, N4 and N6, connect a smooth line.

The notch at the elbow. To build it, to the left of point L1 postpone 1 cm and put a point L4, which is then connect by straight lines with the point G3 and H1.

Collar. To build a drawing pattern of the collar, draw a right angle with the vertex at the point V (Fig. 186).

The length of the collar. Right from the point To put the Posh plus 0.5 cm and put the point B1: BB1 = Posh + 0,5 = 15,5 + 0,5 = 16 cm

Width of the collar. Down from the point To put 8 cm and place the point B2. From this point to the right side, draw a horizontal line. Down from point B1 to swipe the perpendicular and the point of its intersection with the horizontal line indicate B3.

Length of mysyk. To the right of the point B3 set aside 5 cm, put a point B4, which then connect with the point B1 as shown in the drawing. Draw the notch for clearance of the collar. Down from the point To put 1.5 cm and put a point B5. Then points B1 and B5 connect the concave line.

This model of blouse is sewn with a button closure, soft pleats or tucks at the shoulder line, collar, sleeves and cuffs. Getting to cutting, the fabric is fold in half face inward. When the alignment of the parts patterns on the fabric and keep the equity the thread went along, not across it (Fig. 187).
 

Fig. 187. Plan the layout of the parts patterns on fabric

First lay out major details, and only then — small such as cuffs, collar. If the fabric you have is not enough and the sleeves don't turn out solid, make them with extensions on the inner side. Pattern shelves are put on the fabric, stepping back from the edge about 3 cm a margin will need to handle the clasp. In the future, it is on the underside of the shelves. To get the soft folds at the shoulder line of the blouse, the pattern at the shoulder slice cut out of the tuck (Fig. 188).
 

Fig. 188. A method of producing soft folds and drawing on the basic pattern front blouse lines necessary for the formation of two soft folds; b — the depth and length of zastrocky soft folds; in the application of the main pattern front blouse lines required for the formation of three soft folds; d is the depth and length of zastrocky three soft folds

The left and right sides of its side set aside at 1.5 cm and parallel to the edges of the tuck guide lines. According to the obtained line pattern is neatly cut and in the direction of the tuck end make a notch in 1 see

Then the pattern cut strips of Darts spread equally to the center and using chalk on the fabric and mark them to half length. After that, all patterns are translated into fabric. Raskraivat blouse, make a seam at the shoulder and side sections. Sleeves cut out without seam. At the bottom of the sleeve to the left and to the right of the elbow make the notch size of 2 cm.

The collar you cut it so that the lobe filament fabric was held in its width. Podvorotni make a single cut or bridging, laying it on a tissue so that the lobe thread went in its width.

Cuffs fabrics play so that the lobe thread went along them. The cuff make the length equal to the circumference of the brush 4 cm, a width of from 4 to 8 cm.

On the middle shelves and do the back seam cushioning required for proper ultimania collar, promatyvaya loops and sew buttons. When you're cutting all the details, along the lines of the folds overlay "traps" and sweeps in soft folds. Then baste shoulder seams of the back side, making proposalso in the middle of the shoulder. The side sections of the conventional bridging stitch or reverse stitch. Shoulder seams sew side shelves. Then all bridging seams and sewn Ratatouille.

Podvorotni and collar fold right sides inwards and baste, making a small proposalso collar. Then prostrochite collar from podvorotnya. Then the corners cut off, and the gumption to remove. Remove the collar and prometeia so that the upper part was edging in the direction of podvorotnya.

Then attach collar to underside of neck, face, aligning the middle of the back with the middle of the collar.

Vmlite collar into the neck, making proposalso on oblique slices, then vacate seam width 0.5 cm When the collar is TACAN, podvorotni fold inward, simultaneously closing the casting seam and hemming blind stitch hemming stitches open.

Then baste and sew sleeves reverse seam width 0.5 cm Gap between nasecki at the bottom of the sleeve hem a hidden seam, then hem the sleeves gather by shifting the Assembly in the direction of nasechek. Cuff attach the front side to the front side of the sleeve, baste and pristrochite. Then fold the cuff in half, face side inside, stitch the edges, turn and straighten the seams. Cut fold and open hem stitches blind stitch.

Bottom of the blouse podrobnym treat the seam with the width of 0,5 cm and Then prepare the sleeve to peposaca. On two threads to gather the top part, stepping back from the edge of 0.5 cm Point P (mid sleeve) align with the shoulder seam and armhole vmlite in. Then the sleeve vmlite and vacate in armhole. The sections handle a blanket stitch or buttonhole stitch. On the right shelf blouse mark and prometeia loops, the upper loop to make the distance 1 cm from the seam stacki collar. To the left side of the blouse sew the perfect size and color buttons.