Whatever style jackets, cut it by one main drawing (with the exception of the collars for each style are cut separately), but everything else is a matter of imagination. For the grid, and on it, drawing patterns coats need the following measurements (the figures below in centimeters 48 -th size) (Fig. 66):

— Posh (19,5);
— RM (48);
— OTHERS (60);
DI (78).

Draw a straight angle with the vertex at the point A.

the Line of the neck. To the right of the point And put the measure of the semicircle of the breast, and add another 15 cm is based on free fit. Put a point B:

AB = Absorption + 15 = 63 cm (48 + 15 = 63).

Line the middle of the back. Down from the point And put a measured length of jackets, adding another 2 cm and place the point N:

an = DI + 2 = 80 cm (78 + 2 = 80).

From point N, draw a horizontal straight line, and from point B — vertical. The point of intersection indicate point of H1.

БН1 — line mid-front.

The position of the line of the chest. From point A down set aside 1/3 of the semicircle of the breast, add 8 cm and mark the point G:

AG = RM : 3 + 8 = 24 cm (48 : 3 + 8 = 24).

The line of the chest. Right from the point G draw a line so that it was parallel to the neck line.

At the intersection with a line mid-front place a point G1.

The width of the back. Along the chest line to the right of point G set aside 1/3 of the measurements of the semicircle of the breast, adding 7 cm, and put g:

Gg = RM : 3 + 7 = 23 cm (48 : 3 + 7 = 23).

Up from point g draw a line parallel to the middle of the back, and at the intersection with the neck line put a point C.

the Width of the openings. Along the chest line to the right of point g set aside 1/4 of the measurements of the semicircle of the breast, adding 5 cm, and put G1:

гг1 = RM : 4 + 5 = 17 cm (48 : 4 + 5 = 17).

Up from point G1 draw a line parallel to the line of mid front, and set point C1 at the intersection of it with the neck line.

The width of the blade. At the neck line to the right of the point And put 1/8 of the measurements of the semicircle of the breast, adding another 1.5 cm, and set point a:

AA = Absorption : 8 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm (48 : 8 + 1,5 = 7,5).

Or from the same point set aside 1/3 of the measurements of the semicircle neck, adding 1 cm to

the Posh : 3 + 1 = 7.5 cm (19,5 : 3 + 1 = 7,5).

Height. Up from point a draw a line equal to half the width of the germ minus 1 cm, and set point A1:

Aa1 = AA : 2 1 = 2,8 cm (7.5 : 2 1 = 2.8 m).

The points A1 and And connect a smooth line.

A bevel shoulder backless. Down from the point C set aside 2 cm, put a point p: SP = 2 cm,

Width shoulder backless. Connect the points A1 and p, and then extending the line for another 1 cm, put a point P1: PP1 = 1 cm; а1п1 = 17.5 cm

Auxiliary point for the design of the armhole of the back. Cut гг1, which is the width of the armhole, divide in half and put a dot On: th = гг1 : 2 = 8,5 cm (17 : 2 = 8,5).

From point g draw the line dividing the angle in half, it put 3.5 cm and put a dot in G2: гг2 = 3.5 cm

Up from point g set aside half the width of the openings, and put a point P2: гп2 = (гг1 : 2 = 8,5).

Line of the armhole of the back. Points P1, P2, G2 and connect a smooth line.

The position of the line side of the slice. Swipe down from the point On the line so that it was parallel to the middle line of the back, and on the line crossing the bottom put a dot in H2. To the right of the new point set aside 4-5 cm and place the point N3. Connect the dots D3 and About, get the line of the side cut of the back. The contour lines of pattern of back will in this case pass through the points A, A1, P1, A2, G2, D3, N, G, and A.

in Front of. Width of the neck. At the neck line to the left from point B postpone 1/8 measurements of the semicircle of the breast, adding 1.5 cm and put the point B1:

BB1 = TDG : 8 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm (48 : 8 + 1,5 = 7,5).

Down from point B draw a line equal to the line BB1, and set point b:

BB = BB1 = 7.5 cm

So you get the depth of the neck is equal to the width of the neck. Points B1 and b, gently tap the smooth concave line.

The length of the slit for zipper. Down from point G1 postpone 17-19 cm and set point B1: Г1б1 = 17-19 cm

Line of incision to closure. On the line of the neck to the left from point b postpone 4 cm, put a point B2.

Down from point B2 to swipe the dotted line which should be parallel to the line of mid front and equal to the segment BB1.

A bevel shoulder of the front. Down from point S1 set aside 2.5 cm and put in this place point P3: С1п3 = 2.5 cm From a point B1 through a point A3, draw a line and on it (from point B) set aside the shoulder width of the back, which will be marked cut Б1п4:

Б1п4 = а1п1 = 17.5 cm

Auxiliary point for registration openings. Swipe in from the point G1 line dividing the angle in half, put it 3 inches and put a dot G3:

г1г3 = 3 cm

Up from point G1 postpone 8.5 cm and put in this place a point P5:

г1п5 = гг1 : 2 = 8.5 cm

Line openings. Connect the dots P4, P5, G3 and a smooth line. Please note that when making the armhole line of the back and front length of the segments гг2 and г1г3 with the increasing size increases and decreases with a decrease by 0.1 cm for every size.

The side cut. To the left of the point H2 is set aside 4-5 cm and place a dot H4: Н2Н4 = 4-5 cm Connect points O and H4.

Sleeve. In the drawing the sleeve need only one measurement: sleeve length, e.g. 60 cm.

Then complete the drawing referring to the drawing (Fig. 67) and the notes thereto.
 

Fig. 67. Drawing sleeves

Draw a straight angle with the vertex at the point A.

the length of the sleeve. It corresponds to the given formula:

an = PD+ 4 = 64 cm (60 + 4 = 64).

НН1 = AB.

Sleeve width. This value is calculated by the formula:

AB = Absorption + 3 = 51 cm (48 + 3 = 51).

The height of the sleeve crown: AA = TDG : 8 + 2 = 8 cm BB = AA.

The center of the crown sleeve: AO = AB 2 = 25,5 cm

Auxiliary point for processing the crown sleeve. Divide in half the line OA and the thus obtained dot label A1:

Oo1 = OA : 2; о1о2 = 2 cm.

The earlier line About the divide into four equal parts and label line segments by points in a, B1, B2; ve = 1 cm; в2е1 = 1, see

line the bottom of the sleeves. Put up from the points N and N1 to 3 cm, and dot N3 and N4. Right and left of the point H2 is set aside half the width of the sleeve, add 1 cm on each side and put the points N5 and N6:

Н2Н5 = Н2Н6 = AB : 3 + 1 = 18 cm (51 : 3 + 1 = 18).

Connect successively the points a, b, N5 and N6. To the right of the point N5 set aside 1 cm, and from the point h6 set aside 1 cm to the left. The resulting points will issue, guided by the above drawing.

Thus, the contour lines of the pattern sleeves will be marked with points a, O2, O, E1, B1, e, b, 1, N5, N6, 1, and.

Cowboy collar. This collar has several features: it cut out with the stand and has three elongated area that fasten to the jacket.

Draw a straight angle with the vertex at the point A.

the length of the collar. To the right of the point And put the measure of the semicircle of the neck, add another 2 cm and place the point B:

AB = Posh + 2 = 21.5 cm (19,5 + 2 = 21,5).

The width of the collar. Down from the point And put 9 cm, put a dot In: AB = 9 cm.

To the right of the point To draw a line so that it was parallel to the line AB, and set point B1:

ВБ1 = AB = 21,5 cm

Connect points B and B1 with a straight line.

Unfastened portion of the collar. Up from point And put 5 cm, put the point a is: AA = 5 cm Up from point B postpone 3 cm, place the point b: BB = 3 cm to the Right from point b postpone 5 cm, set point B1: BB1 = 5 cm On the middle of the line AB, place the point O: AO = AB 2 = 10,75 cm (21.5 : 2 = 10,75). Connect points a,, B1 smooth concave line.

Sewn part of collar. Up from point b postpone 1.5 cm put a dot in: BB = 1.5 cm to the Right from the point B1 put 2 cm and place in a point B1: Б1в1 = 2 cm Up from point B1 set aside 3 cm, put a point B2: в1в2 = 3 cm to the Left of point B2 draw a line and its intersection with the line BB1 to put v3. Connect it with the point B1 with a straight line. Up from point B1 put 0, 5 cm and the resulting point connect with point B1. To the left of point B2 measure 0.5 cm and connect the obtained point with the previous (i.e., delayed from a point B1 at a distance of 0.5 cm).

From point O draw a line down to intersection with line ВБ1 and set point O1. From this new point (O1) set aside up to 0.5 cm and place the point O2: О1О2 = 0.5 cm Connect the dots, O2, and B1 a smooth line. Up from the point to put 3 cm and place the point B4. Connect the dots B4 and B3 by the dashed line a — line stand collar. The contour lines in this case will pass through the points a,, B1, B3, 0,5, 0,5, B1, B1, O2,, B4,, and.

Cutting the collar in accordance with the above drawing. Then fold the top and bottom of the collar face inward and attach to the top of the gasket.

Sew unfastened the collar with the gasket seam with the width of 0.5 cm. Carefully cut the fabric at the corners, remembering to leave the seam allowance 2-3 mm. Now remove the stitched collar on the front side, straighten the corners and seams and align the ends of the collar.

Handle buckle straps. Note the upper limit: it must be selected so that the strap cells coincided with cells of matter.

Follow pocket. Detail of rectangular shape attach the left shelf to place terminations of the pocket so as to match the pattern of the fabric. After that put the pattern of the pocket and moving it to the fabric, vykroyte pocket. Upper billet pocket handle equity facing.

Fold his slices inside, keen, and then scribbled on the left half of the front, previously retreating 2-3 mm from the bend. Secure the stitching at the beginning and end of the finished pocket.

Keen and sostrochite shoulder seams. Now we need to vacate billet of the collar to the neckline. For this purpose, the underside of the neck baste and pristrochite front face of the upper part of the collar with the gasket, aligning the middle of the collar and back and the ends of stand collar with the edges of the straps.

Cut the bottom of the collar fold to the inside, pin on the front side of the neck, departing 1 mm from the bend. Prostrochite a collar around, at the same time closing the seam primaqiune collar. The width of the finishing stitches on the collar should be not less than 5-6 mm, and the ends of the rack — 1 mm.

Treat sleeves, cuffs and side seams jackets. The bottom of the finished hem coats podrobnym seam, and the corners of the collar, stand, placket and cuffs prometiste loop.